Awwww Nuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[swordy21]

After talking to Dave at Avon, got very excited about looking at my brakes - so Off I went and got some cleaner, copper grease and loads of other stuff, only for this to happen -------------

Probably my fault for jumping on the wheel brace as it was a bit stiff - not very happy now......

Now got to try to bet the broken bits out of both keys I have, and they're wedged in there pretty damn hard. Suggestions would be appreciated.

Love to all

[Wobbly Dave]

Sorry to hear that John, I feel partially responsible for this calimity/enthusiasm.

So panic ye not. I am at hand. If it is the ribbon style locking wheel nut key then they are reasonably easy to extracate. All that is needed is a locking wheel nut extractor, which is a hardened socket with opposite thread inside. They cost about 20 but I can borrow one and get your wheel nuts out.

I did the squealy brake job for Andrew today - which was a resounding success.

I am hoping the photo lesson/how to is gonna be out soon. The pics are on Andrew's digital camera.

If you like I can come and sort it out? Petrol is not free but my time/efforts are. Alternatively most tyre fitting places will be able to assist.

Sadly the Volvo LWN are not much cop. Mine gave way too - the ribbon in the key sheared off. 3 pin ones are good, as are odd shaped socket ones.

Let me know what you want me to do.

Cheers

Dave

[spesh]

I know the feeling mate, i'm gutted just looking at the picture, when mine went I slamed a smalller socket over it banged it on with a big hammer and it came undone, or may be drill it out, seen that done a few times but be carefull with the drill if u do!!!

[swordy21]

THKs Dave. Think I may wait till it has to go to VT on 15th for suspension sorting (and RICA) if they remember (will call this week), I am sure they should have the kit. Spotted set of plug nuts for 19.99 on the net, nut loath to pay that. I have a mint set of 4 plain ones, and am happy for one to replace the f*cked one.

Don't worry about enthusing me up, my fault - I jumped on the brace the wrong way round - can't tell my tightening from loosening - or left from right.

Might just also invest in an air wrench - I already have a compressor - may have sorted this one out b4 it happened.

If I need your help will call.

Cheers]

Jon

[Wobbly Dave]

I have to remember sometimes as well. Anti-clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten - something along the lines of - "if you are against the clock then things will get lose"

In terms of undoing stuff - sudden pressure (eg hitting stuff) is more likely to shear than gradually pressure increase. With stiff Wheel nuts the long bar is always the way to go. Cooper slip your threads on wheel nuts stops em getting that way.

[swordy21]

Good advice - will try to remember.

Not had the bus long - and never had the wheels off b4, so will make sure to do that when I manage to get the rest off - given up for the mo............

[Justin]

VT have the kit mate, they did mine for me

[Martinr]

Like Swordy I too haven't had the car long and as yet haven't removed the wheels. Are the LWNs standard fit? I don't think my car has them and was considering getting a set.

[Wobbly Dave]

I can get LWN sets for the all the t5's for about £25 + postage. Most places including Hal-frauds will be able to supply them

[Bracer]

Dam bad luck mate, what can I say....... Get ya drill out

[Kent Canary]

I did the squealy brake job for Andrew today - which was a resounding success.

Sorry to divert the thread slightly but I am suffering terrible squeal at the moment, which I only noticed after the need for sudden braking.. How did you resolve this particular issue?

Ive recently had a new caliper at the front but aprt from the obvious 'stone in the pads or something' malarky i'm open to other ideas on how to resolve it!

Thanks,

KC

[Wobbly Dave]

KC - I have in my possession some silicone shims that go on the back of the rear pads. Silence is guarenteed. Yay!

Don't worry there should be an e-lesson on how to fit 'em soon.

[Kent Canary]

Great!

[Wobbly Dave]

I still have some sets left over. They cost £4 + p&p and are self-adhesive.

[Kent Canary]

Cool, how exactly do they work then? How does it prevent squeaking by taking the pads away from the carrier by a mil or so? Why? Why? Why?!

Sorry it got away from me a bit at the end there..

[Wobbly Dave]

The typical squeal is caused by high frequency resonance between the back of the pad and the caliper - usually this happens on our cars at low speeds with gentle pressure applied - wherein the pad has more opportunity to move against the caliper piston. The rear braking system on our cars consists of a pair of pistons, a pair of pads and the disk. As the brake pedal is applied the pad will move upwards a little - to the upper end of the pad slot in the caliper. As time goes on I believe bashing of the end of the pad against the wall of the slot causes there to be a little more room than when they were new. The pads at low braking speed/pressure can move that little bit up and down in the slot - causing them to squeal. The hollow pistons and the disk act as amplifiers of the sound

The use of copper slip is supposed to reduce this resonance, as is shamfering the edges of the pad braking surface. I have tried these methods and they usually work, but not alas on ours. The silicon shims seem to be the only way to stop this irritation, by dampening the contact surface between pad and piston.

[Kent Canary]

Thank you for the explanation Dave!

[Ivan]

Similar thing happened to mine. Some cowboy tyre fitters air-gunned the locking nut on :-(
When it came to removal many months later, the head of the nut sheared off.
I tried drilling down the middle to insert one of those tungsten thingies with reverse thread. Alas the nut was so tight the tungsten snapped off in the drill hole - tungsten must be extremely tough stuff, so I then went through more drill bits than I dare tell and made no progress at all.

Finally took it to main dealer who spent hours drilling it, with their diamond drill-bits. They went through quite a few before eventually getting it off.

I just hope you don't have similar trouble!

[swordy21]

Similar thing happened to mine. Some cowboy tyre fitters air-gunned the locking nut on :-(
When it came to removal many months later, the head of the nut sheared off.
I tried drilling down the middle to insert one of those tungsten thingies with reverse thread. Alas the nut was so tight the tungsten snapped off in the drill hole - tungsten must be extremely tough stuff, so I then went through more drill bits than I dare tell and made no progress at all.

Finally took it to main dealer who spent hours drilling it, with their diamond drill-bits. They went through quite a few before eventually getting it off.

I just hope you don't have similar trouble!

So do I - I think there is enough of the central rose left to get it off - but I don't want to chane it just yet.

[swordy21]

Just as was leaving Avon on sat -- tried to close my window and the bl**dy switch cover came off.

Fortunately mark @ salvo is sorting me out with a new set. Bargain.