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Thread: Boost gauge

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    Boost gauge

    I have fitted my gauge (thanks to our honourable member for scotchland for the pod) and it is shiney, thus:


    Question though:
    The gauge goes up to 30 PSI. If I floor it up the dual carriageway it pops up to 5 then as the auto changes up it drops to 2.5 - 3.
    Is this correct? Seems a bit low to me or is my gauge horrendously overspec'd?
    I took the vac feed from the pipe coming from the silver thing I think might be the recirc valve.
    I read through all the posts on here and it said put the T-piece in the pipe on the right of the manifold. I have 3.

    Have I done right?

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    Bump.

    Can anyone help please?

    At idle the gauge sits at -2!?

    Third spur of T-piece did have a brass restrictor in. The kit also came with a knurled metal connector,one in one out, which I have no idea what it is for.
    Last edited by Baj; Sunday 11th June 2006 at 17:41.

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    Hi Baj, you need to connect the boost gague to the leg with the bras restrictor - this stops the needle from jumping about giving a smooth movement.

    On my car, it sits at -0.6 Bar idle . . .

    I'll go take a pic for you . . . any excuse to get under the bonnet !

    Chris
    Last edited by SaffronC70; Sunday 11th June 2006 at 18:12.
    Merc 190E 2.0 Auto

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    Thanks Chris, I have that. What does it go up to at full boost?

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    On my car, 1.2bar but on a standard T5 I think it's about 10psi ?

    I'm sure you'll get solid info soon !

    Chris
    Merc 190E 2.0 Auto

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    Smile

    Hi Baj, don't want to tell you how to suck eggs mate but is your right foot buried through the auto changes? Standard readings on my Auto R with 16T and Autometer, idled at -20; max boost was 9 psi. Now idles at -22 and max boost is 19 psi. Hope this helps.
    Engineer

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    Right, Chris, my pipes look nothing like that.
    I will get the camera out tomorrow. I have a pipe coming out from something I think is the recirc valve. I comes forward to near where the throttle ass would be if it were not ME7 where it joins a little black box with some wires connected. 2 vac tubes come out of that box.

    Engineer, yes, foot is to the floor for the readings given

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    You could be connected to the Boost Control Solenoid. Pics would be good !

    Best to be connected directly to the manifold to get a decent reading.

    Chris
    Merc 190E 2.0 Auto

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    You may be right about the BCS.

    Green thing (I made it green in the photo. Its not really green) with the pipe I have spliced.


    Long shot. Now purple


    Funny box thing pulled, like guts, from deep down under the airbox. Purple pipe is the spliced pipe.



    PS anyone know what this is? Came with the gauge.

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    Glad to see the pod in mate Sorry it took so long

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    AS you can see from the pic it isnt a perfect fit but I am not complaining. Cheers chap.

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    Howdo

    Yes, you've spliced into the actuator pipe - the pressure in this pipe is governed by the BCS, so you are not getting a proper reading.

    The knurled connector, looks to me, like a bulk head connector ? Used for when you drill a suited hole for it, then press it in . . . I think !

    You need to get a pressure feed from the manifold; so use your knurled connector to rejoin the pipes where you spliced (unless you have a joiner).

    Then start again, hehe.

    Have fun.

    Chris
    Merc 190E 2.0 Auto

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    OK. I will go have a look.
    The knurled thing looks like it has a restrictor in.

    Where do people get vac pipe from? Halfards is useless. I can get my wang down the narrowest gauge tube they sell. I dont want the ***** clear stuff that came with the gauge.

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    Have cut pipe that is coming off teh rear right of the manifold at the front.

    Not idles at -15, sits at -23ish when coasting and at flat-out full welly it goes up to about 10 before slowly dropping.

    So, much more movement on the needle but are the figures right? It seems like the gauge face is on wonky!

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    Wink

    OK, Get VAC hose from volvo dealer, they sell it by the metre (very cheap).
    The T-piece that came supplied with yer kit must be used with the new guage as it has an anti flutter valve and will stop the needle of your new guage from fluttering. It should have a brass type fitting in one of the Ts. This end goes towards your new guage. The easiest way to connect is to find the oe vac pipe that goes to your oe guage (easy to find) and splice into it. You do not need to connect at the manifold or the vac tree or anywhere else under the bonnet. Just make sure all connections are air tight (use small cable ties). The vacuum is the same all round so long as there are no air leaks!!

    My new guage indicated (b4 MBC fitted) a healthy 6psi.
    Add an MBC and now it boosts at 10.5 psi. Dont need to go higher as i like my tyres too much, plus in the wet it nearly impossible to drive when you plant yer foot to the floor...

    Hope this helps.

    PS ref idle, it should be about -20ish as it is VACUUM ie less than atmospheric pressure. The needle will return to '0' or 14.7psi when engine switched off and when the needle is above '0' it is indicating +positive pressure ABOVE atmospheric pressure eg. 6psi above 14.7psi. You should also notice once the engine is warmed up it will indicate even more vac, because the engine is more 'loose' it will suck more.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Tuesday 13th June 2006 at 00:13.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    If I had an OE gauge I wouldnt be fitting one!

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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Baj
    If I had an OE gauge I wouldnt be fitting one!
    What do you mean??? All T5's have and OE guage but you cant rely on them for accurate boost indicating.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5
    All T5's have
    Ummm, V70 ME7's don't
    Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something - Plato

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    Neither do V70 motronic 4.4

  20. #20
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    The OEM gauge (in the binnacle) was discontinued after the the 850s.
    The "end of the white" was calibrated to 1.0 bar.
    The 70 series with the older pre-ME7 engine still has the "nipple tree" above the throttle body, but will not have any pipes running of it.
    Chris White is right. To connect an A/M boost gauge to an ME7 engine - you'll need to splice into the vac pipe that comes off the underside of the nearside end of the inlet manifold. It usually has a green spring clip holding it on.
    Baj - buy some vac hose and replace the one you cut inhalf and run it from the actuator to the BCS
    Most kits come with a t piece with a brass restrictor or an anti-flutter valve. You'll need to us it to stop the gauge going besurk.

    There! Sorted!
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