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    Antiroll Bars And Bushes?

    Think While I'm Doing The Rear Main And Whatever I Get From The Group Buy From QBM I Thought I'd Replace The ARB Bushes,Volvo Only Sell The Complete Bar With Bushes At £100+. Can You Get After Market Ones?
    What About These IPD Uprated Sway Bars? Are They Any Good? What Do They Do To The Handling? Is It Worth The Money?
    Sorry For All The Questions

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    Just looked, there are only 2 bushes on the front and none on the back arb. The IPD ARBs are meant to be good, thicker than standard, would go really well with the QBM end links.

    They are supposed to allow the car to take a corner without diving on one side, so you will be able to take the corner flatter, faster and have more control.

    Regarding if they are worth the money or not, have a read on VolvoSpeed. They can give you first hand experience of them. Hmmm, group buy???

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackBeast
    Hmmm, group buy???
    Me Me Me Me Me Me. I'll Have A Set Or Maybe 2!!!!

    EDIT:Wrong Smilie,Was Serious About Maybe 2 Sets.
    Last edited by oliwally; Thursday 18th May 2006 at 23:50.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oliwally
    Me Me Me Me Me Me. I'll Have A Set Or Maybe 2!!!!
    In all seriousness, I'm up for these as well as the QBM endlinks etc...I will be enquiring with IPD for myself and will ask the question about a group buy and post back here...

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    Just sent an email to IPD, so I'll post back if and when I get a reply.

    In the meantime, if anyone's defo interested, post up here so I've got an idea of numbers

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobA
    In all seriousness, I'm up for these as well as the QBM endlinks etc...I will be enquiring with IPD for myself and will ask the question about a group buy and post back here...
    The IPD ARBs are in my plan but not for a good while yet, especially as I want loads of stuff with the QBM group buy. But go for it, ask them how much discount we would get if we had 5 people.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobA
    Just sent an email to IPD, so I'll post back if and when I get a reply.

    In the meantime, if anyone's defo interested, post up here so I've got an idea of numbers
    Count me in my man I wanna get ma beast handlin sooper dooper good b4 I try n shove any serious power down


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    do you realise you'll have to drop the engine to change the anti roll bar? changing the bushes is a major pain in the arse. Tiny ultra strong hands & bucket loads of tollerance required!
    .....sooper moose. '97 850R manual. Yum yum.

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    On some cars you have to lower the rear of the subframe, on some others you dont need to.

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    i have a feeling blackbooty has done this, may be worth a pm if people are intersted?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackBeast
    On some cars you have to lower the rear of the subframe, on some others you dont need to.
    bang on mate.

    phase 1 850 T5's have replaceable ARB bushes, phase 2 are vulcanised to the bar and cant be replaced on their own, whole new rollbar.

    edit... phase 1's ARB bushes can be replaced without dropping rear of sub-frame.
    phase 2's need rear of subframe dropped to be able to replace whole ARB.
    Last edited by blackbooty; Friday 19th May 2006 at 16:57.
    96 black 854 T5 cd auto. (running great)
    irrid plugs, FSE fuel press reg, K+N panel,
    MBC @13psi, strut brace, clear side repeaters,
    black grille, de-badged other than T5,
    well hung pilot :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbooty
    bang on mate.

    phase 2 are vulcanised to the bar and cant be replaced on their own, whole new rollbar.
    So Do IPD Bars Come With The Bushes Or Are They More Like The P1's?

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    Count me in for a bigger better ARB. Any more info on the group buy?
    1995 850 T5, Auto

    MODS
    17" tethys
    BSR Induction kit
    Reverse IC
    Strutt brace
    Poly topmount
    Poly LCA bushes
    302mm Brake conversion
    Braided hoses

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    Quote Originally Posted by oliwally
    So Do IPD Bars Come With The Bushes Or Are They More Like The P1's?
    wouldnt know mate, but the rear of the subframe has to be dropped to get a new ARB on.

    dropping the rear of the subframe is an easy job, real straight forward.
    96 black 854 T5 cd auto. (running great)
    irrid plugs, FSE fuel press reg, K+N panel,
    MBC @13psi, strut brace, clear side repeaters,
    black grille, de-badged other than T5,
    well hung pilot :-)

  15. #15
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    If in doubt thrash it and see
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    Anyone got a link to IPD??? wouldnt mind taking a look.

    Incidentally, one or two people are asking some general questions on ARB's etc., so not meaning to teach egg-sucking for old dears here's some hints...

    In general ARB's, or swaybars as the yanks call them, act as an extra spring which only acts if the wheels are moving up and down in relation to each other. Thus they resist the car from rolling due to cornering forces. Hence a thicker bar, is a stiffer spring, so reduces roll. HOWEVER - you need to strike a balance between front and rear - if you stiffen the front but leave the rear soft, the car will still roll, but you will tend to lift the inside front (DRIVEN) wheel and get understeer, and wheelspin in a beast like ours! Imagine the weight on the outside wheel pushing it up - the ARB is like a giant hand trying to lift up the inside wheel to keep them level. A softer ARB wont try so hard. Makes sense?? Ditto if go stiff at the rear (oops) you can get oversteer if you lift off - (scarey).

    Remember too the extra roll stiffness is additional to that added by stiffer springing which you will probably have already done anyway, and roll is already reduced by reduced weight transfer from lowering which ...ditto!

    So dont go mad. To give an idea I used to trial my Meastro 1.6 and used to remove the ARB from the front completely before an event - the extra traction was significant on hilly, uneven soft ground, and accelerating out of roundabouts etc..
    If you want further essays on handling, get hold of some old CCC, or kit car mags, or talk to some circuit racers, before spending ££loadsa !.

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    Theres the schpiel-

    ipd safety anti-sway bars bring you a greater sense of control behind the wheel. Flatter cornering, quicker response to steering input, an increased margin of safety, plus increased traveling comfort for both you and your passengers.

    ipd anti-sway bar kits are installed using factory mounting locations so no modifications, cutting or welding is necessary. Most kits can be installed with common hand tools in 2-4 hours. By far our most popular upgrade, an ipd anti-sway bar kit will give you years of trouble free service. You'll feel and appreciate the change every time you drive your Volvo.

    A Risk-Free Opportunity
    We’re so confident you’ll like our anti-sway bars, we offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee — or your money back. Plus if your safety anti-sway bar fails for any reason, at any time, due to defects in parts or workmanship, we will replace it free of charge. Questions on our safety anti-sway bars for your year and model Volvo? Give us a call.

    25mm front, 22mm rear

  19. #18
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    Ok, found a little something regarding the bushes of the IPD swaybar, hopefully it creates an useful picture:-

    If you have the Ipd Front bar, on the bar there are two washerlike things (Stronger of course) that are welded onto the bar. These are welded where the outer(maybe its inner, i forget) edges of where the new poly bushings are to go. After installing the bushings, which are aligned up to the "washers" on the bar and with the subframe of the car, you attach the "d-clamps" to hold the bushing DOWN onto the subframe with the swaybar. BUT.. the "washers" keep the bar from moving sideways (left to right motion). when the "d clamps" are down, they hold the bushings DOWN in place... but the bushings are not 100% holding the bar itself in place. to the hand, it probably wont move much... but the car's weight shifts, I would believe to make the bar move sideways (if not much but a little give.

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    irecon there would be a slight movement too Steve,it is a rubber/poly bush after all.

    i recon that was the reason volvo changed bushings on the phase 1/2 after reading that.

    as far as im aware, the phase 1 ARB was smooth, so the mounting was only holding the ARB still directionally ,front/back.

    on the phase 2 the mountings are fixed to the bar in such a way (vulcanised)
    as to try and stop any lateral movement also.

    i am only summising tho ,cos i havnt changed a P1 ARB, only a P2.

    im sure ill be corrected shortly. lol
    96 black 854 T5 cd auto. (running great)
    irrid plugs, FSE fuel press reg, K+N panel,
    MBC @13psi, strut brace, clear side repeaters,
    black grille, de-badged other than T5,
    well hung pilot :-)

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    I just got some IPD bars myself, haven't fitted them yet but they get great reviews. Beware the shipping and customs costs, they can double the cost of the bar kit! Best find a way around them if you can
    Alastair
    Current: 2009 Cayenne GTS and a 2016 Prius IV... yes.
    Previous Volvos: 2009 V50 D5 R-Design, 2005 V70R, 2001 V70 T5, 2001 S40 T4, 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...
    Previous other stuff: Saxo Turbo, 2004 996 C4S, 2008 Z4M, 2001 Yaris T-Sport, 2002 S2000 Mugen, and a 1999 Evo VI




 

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