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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat
    Just a thought, if you absolutely cant shift it, take it to a garage and ask them to weld another nut onto the end of it, after that its just a case of undoing it.
    Cheers for the help tomcat. Might be a tricky job to do as it's maybe 1 cm into the bolt recess.
    The number of times I could have done with a welder this year... would those wee torches be any good for this kinda stuff?
    Martin


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  2. #22
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    If your welding a big enough nut onto the end, you can just weld through the hole in the middle. A mig welder would be perfect for this sort of thing.

  3. #23
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    i've seen a special tool used before now for doing this, its basically a funnel (for want of a better description), that pushes around the damaged wheel nut, and then makes it nice and easy to weld without risking any damage to the wheel.
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  4. #24
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    Cool

  5. #25
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    Right job done. Cost £10 this morning. Many thanks to tomcat, T5ER, t5 stealth (I won't be needing those tools now but thankyou for offering), Liddo, oblark, MattB, Pissed'n'Broke, and rufe for all your advice. Spread the ovlov

    Everyone who has locking wheel nuts should have a set of these:


    Bloke said that with the 3pin products (), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.

    He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)
    Martin


    2 strokes, 10 horse power and 8,000 miles. Read my story.
    Mongol by Minsk 2007: www.mongolbyminsk.com


  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pzorb
    Bloke said that with the 3pin products (), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.

    He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)
    Geesh - glad you were able to remove the bolt without having to cut the wheel of SAAB style!! I think I'll invest in a set of those sockets - ready for a rainy day! BTW - did you use a breaker bar or impact wrench?? I originally had the 3pin variety, which simply fell apart, hence needing to have it drilled out. I've heard mixed reviews about all locking nuts, inc McGuard. TBH if there was no or little risk of my alloys being pinched - I wouldn't bother, as they are alot of hassle!! But then I suppose neither would anyone else!?
    Anyway, glad you're sorted
    Wish I had a Volvo!

  7. #27
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    Two big blokes hanging off the end of an extended breaker bar!
    Martin


    2 strokes, 10 horse power and 8,000 miles. Read my story.
    Mongol by Minsk 2007: www.mongolbyminsk.com


  8. #28
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    Well done, can I ask how much it cost for the sockets?. I must get some replacements for mine as soon as I can afford some.

  9. #29
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    duhhh, sorry if I'm being thick here but what do the sockets in the picture do, how do they help to remove the broken stud?
    Rgds

    Rick

  10. #30
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    They're a ;eft hand thread, so....if you screw them on like you where undoing something, they screw into the stud and allow you to undo it. And the more you turn it the tighter it will grip.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat
    Well done, can I ask how much it cost for the sockets?. I must get some replacements for mine as soon as I can afford some.
    The reverse thread ones were a tenner from a local motorist's shop. Halfords do some for a surprisingly reasonable price, around the same mark. Can't remember off the top of my head but closer to £10 than £20.
    Martin


    2 strokes, 10 horse power and 8,000 miles. Read my story.
    Mongol by Minsk 2007: www.mongolbyminsk.com


  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat
    And the more you turn it the tighter it will grip.
    Yup once they've bitten in something will have to give.
    Martin


    2 strokes, 10 horse power and 8,000 miles. Read my story.
    Mongol by Minsk 2007: www.mongolbyminsk.com


  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by pzorb
    Right job done. Cost £10 this morning. Many thanks to tomcat, T5ER, t5 stealth (I won't be needing those tools now but thankyou for offering), Liddo, oblark, MattB, Pissed'n'Broke, and rufe for all your advice. Spread the ovlov

    Everyone who has locking wheel nuts should have a set of these:


    Bloke said that with the 3pin products (), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.

    He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)

    he he he, saaaaabs , ive had three 2.3 9000 turbos, great cars but dont work on them.... oh my word... everything and i do mean everything welds itself together on them.
    they run very hot and have turbo at the front of engine.
    at least 10 times i thought i had just loosend a bolt/nut, only to find it twisted off in a socket.

    lost the thread off a spark plug in the plug recess once, tightend up whilst removing and it went crack.... big job that one ,my labour and costs were frightening.

    saabs , their strong.... too strong !!! lol
    96 black 854 T5 cd auto. (running great)
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    well hung pilot :-)


 

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