Rear main seal mounted in too deep?

Hi all
before I put my engine in I wanted to run something by you guys. I have a horrible feeling Iv put my rear main seal in too far :( I seem to remember there's quite a bit of metal on both the engine and crank so could go quite deep but then...

Picture isn't amazing but its a good 5mm recessed

Thoughts?? I don't want to do this twice once its built for the sake of a new seal and another go if its wrong and likely to leak!

thanks guys

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IIRC it should be flush, not in at all, but wtf do I know?! lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JT

IIRC it should be flush, not in at all, but wtf do I know?! lol

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you should know volumes, if you learn from you mistakes....lol :)

Haha oh no jt have you had an unfortunate rms issue too... Thanks for your advice :)

They are a pain in the ass! Mine New one leaked so box was dropped twice in as many days. Flush is the key but a couple of mm should be ok however I think if I'm honest yours does look a little far.

This however is only from experience and not gospel Volvo tech advice ;)

If you noticed when you removed the old seal they was a small groove in the crank where the old seal had been. If you fit the new seal if in the same place the chances of it leaking are greater. If the seal is fitted deeper into the housing it will seal on a unworn part of the crank.

It's way too far in, also if it's a new genuine Volvo one it will leak if just fitted in the conventional way as the the ID of the new seals are bigger than the OD of the crank.

If you buy one from GSF it will fit and seal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tim Williams

It's way too far in, also if it's a new genuine Volvo one it will leak if just fitted in the conventional way as the the ID of the new seals are bigger than the OD of the crank.

If you buy one from GSF it will fit and seal.

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That's an interesting point Tim. I had exactly the opposite, I bought a GSF part first, it leaked so I bought genuine. Both set in correct location.

Thanks for the reply guys, Tim the seal seem to be pretty tightly fitted over the crankshaft but then I would imagine it doesn't need to be far-off to leak...
I've ordered another one and will put in much closer this time as for the cost it's not worth the hassle of having to take it apart again!

Right guys, please don't shoot me down for this is I'm so angry with myself already, but in the process of getting the rear main seal out I have scored the outside engine part where the seal sits. Unfortunately I think it's quite deep as it can be easily felt with a fingernail.
I'm really pissed off with myself as I was being so careful not to do this, but I have sourced some special metal filler from my local engineering shop so I'm going to try and place just a tiny bit inside the score and gently run flat just to reduce it before refitting the seal properly

My question really is how much does the outside of the seal matter compare to the inside crankshaft part? I've spoken to a couple of engineering companies and both have said that the inner part is more critical than the outer part and that the rubber of the seal may fill the gap. Luckily I didn't damage the Crankshaft at all

Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions to rectify it? Unfortunately I fear I may have ruined the entire engine but there must be a solution surely?

I would clean off the raised part of the scratch and use some oil resistant sealer not chemical metal as that tends to allow oil past in time.

Just install the seal so it's flush with the outer face of the block.

Thanks Tim I think that's the stuff I've got or similar, it's what my machine shop use, bloody expensive as well it nearly 30 quid tube! Just wondering what the benefit would be buying a sleeve for the crankshaft like the speedi sleeves as well whilst it's apart to be sure it seals well? Have you ever done this?

I don't suppose anyone knows the exact diameter of the large end of the crankshaft where the flywheel mounts to and rear main seal seals? Iv got it roughly at 97.9 but need to be 100% really

Thanks!

You shouldn't need a sleeve to fit the seal as the end of the crank protrudes past the end of the block so you can easily fit the seal over the crank and then tap it in.

I was thinking more to provide a new shiny surface or incase there were any imperfections that may cause the seal to not seal well. I can't see any large marks other than a circumferential score which I assume is from where the old seal lip rested. Tbh I can't find any to the size I measured anyway so I think il just fit it an hope it seals ok lol