Many thanks man,i have a few bits in my cart from here instead of bits and bobs all over the place.
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Ha viva performance or TTV?I might actually go for the TTV light flywheel £300 delivered.And then the R clutch kit as opposed to the viva performance $440 before delivery...the TTV is lighter by about a kg also.then im thinking just go cheap and grab an 850t flywheel and resurface?
i understand mole explained alot a page or so back and it was great info.now that i have stripped everything back and done research i can understand more of what i am working with so Sorry About all the Qs as i am doing alot of research also but there is just so much out there and different opinions.would you say this is worth it?only realised how small the TB is when i was doing pcv.
https://www.vivaperformance.com/big-...0-s70-v70-c70/
also any thoughts on NA cams?
so its a b5234t3
and am planning just recon turbo as it is 16t...and get angled hotside for better downpipe,will i bother with R exhaust mani?
will whites be ok?
full 3 or 2.5 exhaust
maybe that viva mani as an intake mod
intercooler and some water or meth spray and oil cooling options
also heat shield and plenty of wrap
and a good tune?
ha and box is deffo going to be solid soon.
that is just my thoughts and any advice would be great.
And is it true that my whites will flow the same as blues if i change the fuel pressure?
N/A cams will depend on how far you wish to go in getting every last pony out of her or whether you can be bothered for the small extra gain you could possibly get, if the engine is coming to bits anyway, it may then be worth while sticking them in. You will find good gains by using a better exhaust manifold, the s60r item is good but costs double to 3 times what you can get a good japanifold for, I've used both on olive and found not much difference tbh. Larger TB and good intake piping will help, inlet manifold is good for a fair whack of horses before you would need to think of changing it, whites will be ok imho and if things look a tad lean then pop a 3.8 bar fpr in to get a few more drops of juice into her, I can not stress enough to get a good afr gauge in there to so you can see what's really happening fuelling wise, no point in guessing and killing an engine, get the right one and it will data log for about 3 hours, which is very handy. Water/meth is a good idea which imho is very important if your going to push the boundaries a fair bit with a small turbo and is working well on my car, which as you may have seen has achieved 301bhp and 521nm running a 15g turbo and pulled 13.4 on the 1/4 mile.
I'm guessing that you mean by saying your box is going solid....that your fitting a Quaife or Gripper diff..?
Hope that helps or at least clarifies some of your research, it all depends on how much you want to spend to how much bang you get for your buck, my route was to slowly build up by using the cheapest options that gave the biggest gains first and then added more expensive smaller gains later as I could afford them, my next move is going to be the most expensive so far on my project, which is a full ground up engine build with a closed deck block and forged internals, so not cheap and will be a long slow build as still saving for forged pistons at present and then it will require all the other rebuild bits, shells, gaskets, pumps, etc. etc.
Good luck with your build and please keep us all informed with your progress.
Many thanks again mole..very helpful,
too many ideas in my head and in the middle of relocating storage also so i have decided that for now i am just going to get the car running and make a good plan for upgrades.so R clutch internal slave TTV light flywheel and suspension is on the way,Ha thats what i meant by solid box...i understand i will deffo need a diff as the upgrades come so i am happily going to make a list of upgrades that i will write off probably early new year now by the looks of it...
will update here with results and pics.
Thanks again :)