v70 not starting

Would anyone know about the problem the V70 isnt starting?

I exchanged the Radio and it worked, i parked the Car 2 weeks ago up due to selling.
Now, the Battery is charged, even tried with a relative new one.

The symptoms the Car is doing when you turn the Key there is a clicking coming from the Gearbox but is not starting.
no error messages on the Computer.

i tried to find an answer for the last 6 hours as someone wants to collect it tomorrow.
any ideas where to look or whats happen now with it.


since i bought this car i have nothing as trouble with it and would like to see it going tomorrow but how can i start this thing ?
please help !!!!!!!

It was running a couple times after i parked it up and put the original Radio back in. just now after 2 or 3 weeks its not doing anything. with being automatic the Brutal force of towing it untill it starts is impossible.

its a 2.4 Petrol Automatic

Check to see if you are getting battery voltage to the positive terminal on the starter motor, and check what the battery voltage drops down to when trying to crank. You will need a multimeter for this. Being an auto, check that the gearstick is in park or neutral.

ok. Thanks. ill try it in the morning. the starter motor was making a quick noise after i charged the Battery for an hour and disconnected the Radio. but still not starting.
i let the Battery on charge the next view hours and see whats happen in the morning.
Thank you

right. Voltage is ok by starting not dropping although Battery charger is on a fully charged Battery for support.
yes positive terminal on Starter has full Power.
checked all Fuses they ok.

all i get when turning the key
fuel pump can be heard working
the clicking behind the Dash ( Relays ) is there

what i don't get is the Clicking from the Gearbox Channel when i turn the Ignition on.
Its a loud Clicking, same as when i press the Brake pedal down.

Anybody has any Ideas about that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by v70tom

right. Voltage is ok by starting not dropping although Battery charger is on a fully charged Battery for support.
yes positive terminal on Starter has full Power.
checked all Fuses they ok.

all i get when turning the key
fuel pump can be heard working
the clicking behind the Dash ( Relays ) is there

what i don't get is the Clicking from the Gearbox Channel when i turn the Ignition on.
Its a loud Clicking, same as when i press the Brake pedal down.

Anybody has any Ideas about that?

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Have you ever heard the expression.....You can't polish a turd?

...Well this expression applies to your battery. If it's knackered, then you can't charge it. If the battery is so badly sulphated, leaving it on charge for two weeks will not make any difference!

From the symptoms you describe, you either have a dead battery or a jammed starter motor.

Checking battery voltage (Check at battery terminals, not slave points under the bonnet)

Ensure terminal clamps are clean and tight!
With everything switched OFF and key removed from ignition, only tailgate open and interior lights all OFF....voltage should be no lower than 12.4v at the battery. If it is lower than 12.4 but higher than 12.2 you battery may need charging with a decent charger for at least 24 hrs. A smart charger would be advisable.

If the voltage is lower than 12.2v then forget it. You battery will be knackered, as clearly, it cannot hold a charge due to excessive sulphation, coupled with the fact you left it 2 weeks has just added to the problem.

A fully charger battery should have 12.5v minimum but anything over 12.8v indicates Ghost voltage due to it being charged. You'll need to discharge this first, before checking voltage.

Discharging the ghost voltage

Turn on ignition and turn on blower fans for 30 seconds. Switch off fans and ignition, close door and wait for interior lights to extinguish. (Refer back to Checking battery voltage)

With a donor vehicle and a decent set of quality jump leads (ones that can handle over 300 amps without melting) you should be able to boost the battery and start the car. If, after trying this you still get 'dead mans click', using a long metal bar (about 3ft long) and a large hammer, you can reach the starter motor with the bar and give it a gentle tap once or twice. This may free the solenoid enough for the engine to crank and start the car.

If after a couple of taps it does not start, then it will need recovery to a garage, as you cannot bump start an auto. You'll need the starter motor replacing.

NB.

Make sure the donor car engine is running before you connect the battery and make sure it is allowed to idle for ten (10) minutes before you attempt to start the flat Volvo.
Do not switch off the donor car at any point whilst it's connected to your Volvo!
Try to use a vehicle bigger than a 1.6 petrol as a donor car......using a 1.2 Micra will not get you anywhere :smirk:
Ensure the battery charger is removed before trying to start. It will not aid the battery nor help with starting as it will not provide enough amps to crank. You also risk blowing the fuse on the charger.

Good luck!

Long shot but could it be an immobiliser fault? I had an antenna fault with my old t5, might need to google it but I'm sure it was lock/unlock the car 5 times with remote to reset. Can't remember if I got any clicking from behind dash, I suspect I didn't, but for the 30 seconds it will take to try it, might be worth a shot. And the wires on top of the starter motor can give a rubbish connection apparently

Thanks guys.
there is a Rely which controls the Gear-leaver or so. wobbled it around while trying to start.
it worked.

Bloody Car. lol

i know once by Fact - never ever going for a Mark 2
nothing easy straight forward.

Yes LeeT5 i understand the Battery situation and the Battery which i put in is only 3 weeks old.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by v70tom

Thanks guys.
there is a Rely which controls the Gear-leaver or so. wobbled it around while trying to start.
it worked.

Bloody Car. lol

i know once by Fact - never ever going for a Mark 2
nothing easy straight forward.

Yes LeeT5 i understand the Battery situation and the Battery which i put in is only 3 weeks old.

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Sounds like you were just lucky.

It wouldn't be the immobiliser because they work on 3 point immobilisation, that includes the started motor solenoid.
So if you're getting a solid 'click' from under the bonnet, that's normally a dodgy starter, flat battery or (rarely) a bad connection at the starter.

Has the car gone now it's started?

it started but not gone. the guy wants it for parts. but im on holiday from tonight on. leaving at 6. so its happen hopefully next weekend. as he cant come before Tuesday now.

yes i may was the lucky one.
I had this with and Audi, hence never bothered with one again.
i guess i stick with my Mark 1 V70.
Trusty, not as much electronic gremlins and most garages can help.
sorry but i think Volvo Dealers just to expensive to sort little things out.

Computer check by Volvo around here is about 160£ and they want to do the Job.
BMW and even Mercedes around here is about 90 and you go wherever you want with the repair and most Mechanics can help.

Its just for some reason i always liked the Volvos and always came back to it. lol