ooh, looks nice , suits the car
Printable View
ooh, looks nice , suits the car
Nice & congrats!
After fettling around on the car the other day I'd needed to remove the engine brace. Whilst I was there, I discovered the small rear top bush had split on both sides.
So I managed to grab one of these...
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...+Bush/521.html
for £16 delivered off ebay.
Here she is fitted...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscqt0y64h.jpg
Noticed a very subtle difference but nothing major. No cabin vibration, which is the main thing.
Thanks Lee!
Next time I'll have to replace the top engine mount will give it a go.
My bushes are as follows:
Front of car
Subframe bushes x4: Poly inserts
Wishbone bushes x4: Powerflex purple
Engine brace top Large x1: Superpro poly Purple
Engine brace top small x1: Powerflex purple
Engine brace end bushes x2: IPD solid Aluminium brackets (makes Engine brace rigid)
Gearbox lower torque mount x2: Fit latest Volvo OE bracket (uprated large bush) and replace the small rear bush with Powerflex purple.
Rear of car
Rear lower center arm inner x2: Powerflex Black series
Rear lower center arm outer x2: Powerflex purple
Rear toe control arm front bush x2: Powerflex purple
Rear upper link Y-arm void insert kit x2: Powerflex purple
Rear inner rear lower arm x2: Powerflex purple
Rear outer rear lower arm x2: Powerflex purple.
The rear bushes are a bitch to fit, and will cost around £400 in labour alone. Some need to be pressed out using a hydraulic press. However, they are well worth it and after a full alignment, the car will have that 'New car' feeling when everything is tight and under control.
PowerFlexing your bushes are a good way to 'future proof' and guarantee longevity and constant control with no fatigue or wearing out of the bushes.
Obviously a Full alignment is necessary.
1. 3" downpipe and 200 cell race CAT
2. Replace windscreen -- (in the spring 2017)
3. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order...still)
4. IPD DEM alloy cover --(Need to order...still)
5. larger exhaust tips
6. Repair weeping drive shaft inner seal (To be fixed within 2 months)**
7. Fit reverse camera to iMiV -- (need to order)
8. IPD anti roll bar kit 25mm/28mm
9. Fit OPIE gold plug to engine sump -- (due 154k service)
10. Fit OPIE gold plug to Gearbox -- (@ 154k service)
11. Upgrade gearbox oil from 75W90 NS GL-5 to 75W140 NS GL-5 -- (@154k service)**
12. New clutch
No 6 - Drive shaft seal part number 9143885 (28x38x7).
1. 3" downpipe and 200 cell race CAT
2. Replace windscreen -- (in the spring 2017)
3. New rear toe rods (OE)
4. IPD DEM alloy cover --(Need to order...still)
5. larger exhaust tips
6. Repair weeping drive shaft inner seal (154k service)**
7. Fit reverse camera to iMiV -- (need to order)
8. IPD anti roll bar kit 25mm/28mm
9. Fit OPIE gold plug to engine sump -- (due 154k service)
10. Fit OPIE gold plug to Gearbox -- (@ 154k service)**
11. Upgrade gearbox oil from 75W90 NS GL-5 to 75W140 NS GL-5 -- (@154k service)**
12. New clutch**
** To be replaced before June.
Ok. I've seen all the videos of this on Youtube as was scepticle but impressed at the same time. It also doesn't matter what cream, plastic treatment you apply, they all wear off in the end and don't last. So I thought what have I got to lose? If I damage the trim, it can be easily and cheaply replaced....so I gave it ago.
Using a Heatgun to refresh your aging plastic trim.
BEFORE:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pswqojubjk.jpg
AFTER:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pshmwqsgik.jpg
I used the lowest setting on my cheap two speed heatgun and the results speak for themselves. Very quick and easy to do, taking me no more than 15 minutes to do the entire car (exept front bumper trim as these are new).
You just have to be careful not to allow the heat to linger too long as you will blister the paint next to the trim. Thankfully, I didn't.
You don't even need to prep it as the heat from the gun will melt any product on the trim and instantly burn it off.
Bought these very cheap off ebay for about £10 delivered. Great quality and I highly recommend as they save the risky drilling of the plates.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psofqb5l6h.jpg
Prepped two 25mm bolts to fit these...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psbezyblnu.jpg
I decided to leave the old plate tape residue on the tailgate as it slightly cushions the plastic trim as stops any vibrations.
Two new sticky end strips for the ends of the trim...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscqakhkof.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pskthk96e5.jpg
New plate clipped in onto the special sprung loaded feet..
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psjia4evz0.jpg
Then snap the door shut..
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscefpsaua.jpg
Front plate:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pspqnrmptg.jpg
These new plates I've had kicking around for a while and was never going to fit with the black plate holders. I now wish I'd got plates without the black line, as I feel they will look much better. Maybe get them later in the year!
Really pleased with the plate holders they appear to look like part of the car and somewhere for a license plate to go, rather than being bolted/stuck on. They blend in well on black cars too :)
Yep it's a good trick that, I did olives front bumper a couple of years back and then used that gtech C4 on it and it's still looking good today, I mixed results with Guls bumpers but they where in bad shape to start with and god know what had been put on them over the previous years before my ownership.
Looks good:B_thumb:
Well I noticed that the CCM bulbs were starting to glow yellow rather than green. I also had a bulb out in the headlight switch and lower center console switch panel, so it was time to get some new bulbs.
I nearly fell over when I went to pay for them....oh well.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psyxzoputn.jpg
HeadLight switch
Fuse panel off and prise the switch from the back....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdylk6fq3.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscjaf3qoo.jpg
This reveals 3 bulbs.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdd7lrx8t.jpg
CCM removal
Firstly wait 3 minutes after switching off car then disconnect the Earth cable from the battery. (This prevents SRS errors when CCM is disconnected).
There's easy videos on how to remove this, so I'll cut straight to the chase....
Tools used + a Torqs 25 screwdriver...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psw5zm0k9x.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb9tx423q.jpg
Good oportunity to clean the interior temp sensor and fan....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psm9ch0uk6.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pswmoickvc.jpg
I used MAF sensor cleaner to clean the diode.
Refit earth cable with ignition switched to position 2 (prevents airbag deployment).
End result!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psgllvzgye.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pst5ucfcxf.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psugjtudc0.jpg
:o
Looks good Lee!
"Refit earth cable with ignition switched to position 2 (prevents airbag deployment)."
Just wondering....Is this really necessary? For instance the user manual doesn't mention this under battery replacement.
Pg 139:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/webmanu..._EN_tp6726.pdf