T5 turns over but won't fire

Okay so this has been going on for a while now with trying to source out this problem with my car. Kind of got put off to the side because my Volvo was a project, well I sold my daily driver and now I'm wanting to put this on the road.

So moving along with the issue... When I had the car running, it ran absolutely perfect, no check engine light. Then the car started running rough for a couple weeks with the upside down "Y" orange and green light on the dash. Finally the car just completely stopped running. So I've narrowed it down to a car not having spark. I put new platinum plugs in it, along with new plug wires. Did a test on the crank sensor and got a reading of 280ohm. Also did a test on the coil with a multi meter and it appears to be fine. Yet when we grounded the coil out to just test the spark at the coil with the key on, it's very weak. So I went to the auto wreckers and swapped out the coil for one from another Volvo (I believe it was a none turbo). This new coil looks slightly different, says made in Germany unlike the old one and it has a transistor under the plug on the bottom of the bracket. Other than that, it looks pretty much identical. Anyway, it does the exact same thing. It does get the full 12v on the primary side.

This 4 prong plug at the coil, is there a specific reading I should see when the car is turning over or the key is on from any of the 4 wires??? I tried testing the back of the plug for the cam sensor, but I wasn't having any luck hitting the connector. I really don't want to pierce the casing.

Sounds like a cam sensor fault, no spark could also be down to the fuel injection relay, (grey relay under the front slam panel) if its auto could also be faulty pnp switch. you really need to get the codes read

Running rough and lamba on points to the maf

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Originally Posted by Jamest5r

Running rough and lamba on points to the maf

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But a faulty maf wouldnt cause a no spark issue

read the codes

Oops, thought I posted the code. I just went out and doubled check it, P0120 and that's the only code.

And here is the coils. The new one from the wreckers is on the left, the stock one from the car is on the right.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...7/photo2-1.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...427/photo1.jpg

Throttle position sensor p0120, but that wouldnt cause a no spark issue

Does the fuel pump prime the rail? id certainly suggest trying a cam sensor

Yep there is fuel at the rail. I would like to swap out a cam sensor to make sure it's the issue, I'd really hate laying out the money for a new one to find out that isn't the case. I want to test that signal wire to the coil too, but I don't have an analog volt meter. Going to try to pick one up tomorrow.

Signal wire from ecu to coil to give issues, i rewired mine, but thats was after i damaged it doing a engine change, i think your issue is the cam sensor shame ur in the states as i have a couple you could have borrowed

cam sensor too :B_thumb:

Oh my dad's been searching around the internet too and noticed I had an up arrow flashing on the dash. I also noticed it too, but didn't think nothing of it. Apparently it has something to do with the shifter being in the wrong gear. Any thoughts???

Yep that could be your Problem mate, PNP switch, try moving the shifter back n forward 10-15 times quickly, then see if she starts.

Do the reverse lights work when reverse is selected?? the pnp switch will inhibbit a spark

Checked it out, moved the shifter back and forth a bunch of times and still no luck. I cleared the P0120 code, light stops flashing. As soon as I crank the car over, code pops back up. So I tried sport mode, cleared the code, and it was fine until I tried to crank it. Then I cleared the codes again, hit the winter mode button the arrow started flashing again without even trying to start the car. Also tried to start it in neutral, but then it won't even crank. Reverse lights do turn in reverse too.

Just picked up an analog multi meter today, so I'll have a peak at the switching wire on the coil tomorrow when it's light outside.

Today I tested the blue switching wire off the coil while the car is turning over and I'm only getting 0.19V (Not even 0.2V. Also tested the wire at the cam sensor unplugged with the key on, pin 2 is 2V and pin 3 is a full 12V. Then I left the cam sensor unplugged, turned the car over and I'm still receiving 0.19V at the blue switching coil wire. Is that normal??? Or it is just receiving a signal from the crank sensor???

So I finally got in my new cam position sensor (took forever to have them ship it out), replaced it and the car still won't start. Now it seems to have a new problem. Honestly I'm really hating this car... Soooo, moving along. I did previous tests with the cam sensor before with it plugged in with no signal from pin #1 while the car was turning over. With the key on and the sensor unplugged, pin #2 was reading about 5V and pin #3 was full battery voltage. Now pin #2 is reading 0.5V and pin #3 is at 2.42V. Haven't touched the car since I ordered the parts. Really need some input on this because this car is causing quite the headache for me.

Making progress, but still haven't fully sourced the problem though. Just had the car fire today.

Anyway... Long story short, traced the wires from an ecu schematic which lead to that grey relay at the top of the rad with one connector including 4 wires. So the relay isn't closing the circuit when the ignition is on or the car is turning over. Popped the cap off the relay to check if it was okay inside and everything is clean. Also jumpered the relay and it works fine. So, plugged the relay back onto the car without the cap, closed the circuit and the relay on the other side switch, turned the car over, fires right up. So as the relay opens the circuit, engine quits. What is this relay controlled by or what would cause this???

Found it... Broken orange/black in the harness just behind the rad where is comes out of the plastic duct.

Thank you :)

well done fella. glad to hear your up and running :)