Snapped Bonnet Cable - How to replace

Ok, after a couple of hours swearing, scratching heads and scratching hands and wrists, I finally replaced the bonnet release cable.

So, on we go. First a big thanks to Lozccw for the first pic diagram and video. :-)

You will need

1x new bonnet release cable - Got it from Rufe at FRF (well the other chap who works there, Simon always seems to be on lunch)
1x socket wrench
1x 40mm socket
1x jack and also wheel nut wrench
1x axle stand
1x tub of grease
1x phillips screwdriver

Ok, now if the cable has snapped from inside the bonnet then you can do one of two things. The first is to follow this video that Lozccw did that shows how you can go under through the bumper and up to pull the bonnet release switch 'How to get the bonnet open or you arm stuck as in my mates case'

Here is a pic Lozccw also did to show the location of the catch http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...-110_1-mod.jpg

Now, I was unable to unlock it that way as a) the catch was too tight to pull with all the muck and rust and b) it appeared to be a bit closer to the radiator than Lozccw's motor.

So, if that doesnt work then the other option is to go in through the grill. I used a dremel with a mini saw attachment and broke through that way. Once through I undid the three bolts (imagine an upside down triangle with one bolt at each corner and thats the location of them) with the socket wrench to remove the housing and was able to release the catch.

Now thats done, jack the car up and remove the drivers side front wheel (offside front) you need to do this to remove the wheel arch liner to get to the old cable. The green squares are plastic screws which need the phillips and the red ones are 10mm bolts apart from the one top right which is larger. The one on the bottom right is underneath point towards the ground. Once done , remove the lining. There may be more bolts and screws so take a look but that was all there was on mine.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27820890/IMG...303_152305.jpg

Now go into the cabin and undo these screws x4 and remove the lower side panel http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27820890/IMG...304_161849.jpg

next

unscrew the two screws that hold the release mechanism to the frame
they are underneath pointing down to the floor. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27820890/IMG...304_161858.jpg

Now the crappy bit. Release the cable from the red release lever in the cabin and also remove the cable from the bonnet mechanism. Now in the wheel arch to the top left you will see this rubber grommet, pull the black cable including wire out from it. It might take a bit of brute force but it will come.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27820890/IMG...303_154343.jpg

Now thats that done, follow it to the right and through the wing into the engine bay and pull that through into the wheel arch, CAREFULLY.

OK, done? good right now to put the new one in.

Where the red box is, you should be able to lift up the black rubber grommet slightly.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27820890/grommet.jpg
Doing this makes it easier inserting the new cable as its a right pain to try and get the knobbly bit on the end of the cable through that small hole. You need to use a fair amount of force to get her to go in but once she does, excellent.

Have someone in the cabin. They need to go in head first and be facing the wheel when they do, there are a ton of cables and electrics under the footwell and its a right nightmare seeing the cable come through the bulkhead. A light is recommended.

Now once you have got the cable through into the cabin, attach it to the red bonnet release lever.

Then thread the bonnet end of the cable through the back of the rubber grommet and out towards the right side of the wheel arch, feed it through into the engine bay and once neatly done attach to the bonnet release mechanism and liberally grease her up.

Now you have done that, screw the red release catch back to the frame in the cabin footwell, bolt the bonnet release mech back up and test. If its working, excellent, screw/bolt everything back up and job done.

If not then make sure both ends of the cable are attached correctly. Mine worked first time so it shouldnt be a problem. Keep going until it works.

Time to change it is about 30 mins once everything is removed, unbolted, screwed etc.

Have fun

Good write up mate, shame you had to smash the grill though, I managed to do mine without but mines an aftermarket eggcrate so I possibly had a bit mroe room than you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by antz

Good write up mate, shame you had to smash the grill though, I managed to do mine without but mines an aftermarket eggcrate so I possibly had a bit mroe room than you.

Cheers dude. Two people tried getting their hands in and couldnt. Typical car, she didnt want to let up.

Sorry to bring up an old thread,
But I just wanted to add since I now have a P2 to compare, That due to the styling changes made to the front bumper during the P1/P2 switch-over there is NOT enough room to use my earlier method if you have a P2 car!!

The method of reaching through the front bumper (In the earlier vid) to release the bonnet catch WILL work, but ONLY if you have a P1 car!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by lozccw

Sorry to bring up an old thread,
But I just wanted to add since I now have a P2 to compare, That due to the styling changes made to the front bumper during the P1/P2 switch-over there is NOT enough room to use my earlier method if you have a P2 car!!

The method of reaching through the front bumper (In the earlier vid) to release the bonnet catch WILL work, but ONLY if you have a P1 car!!!

And that will be why I didnt have room (or my friend) to get the hand up there. Good to know we were not doing it wrong.