Power steering leak

Hi All,

Losing fluid from around where the pump and return hoses connect to the rack (nr steering column)

The return pipe feels very loose going into this joint although the pump hose feels solid. They seem to be held in place by a bolted plate.

I read there are O rings on these connectors which I assume may have failed.

Access looks terrible. Can these be replaced without having to lower the subframe?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Cheers

Chris

I very much doubt it. Anything to do with the rack normally means you need to lower the rear part of the subframe ONLY! Remember to support the weight or you'll risk damage to the subframe bushes.
I do believe you are correct, in that they are 'O' rings behind those bolted plates.

It's a good opportunity to replace all the PS fluid whilst you're there and also, if you have the old style PS reservoir - then replace that for the modified version + the new hose that you'll need. (see below) :B_thumb:

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post797077

Just an update as I think I've cracked it.

I got an O ring for both pipes, green is "in from PS pump" brown is "Return to Fluid Reservoir". The brown was the likely leaker as it was moving about quite a lot.

part numbers: 98819 and 988121 (Sorry didn't note which was which).

First I emptied the fluid reservoir into a tray and disconnect the tube going down behind the engine. Note the routing.

The 10 mm bolt that clamps on the pipes is accessible (just) using a 1/4" socket extension bar(s). Careful not to drop the bolt. The clamp is attached to the pipe that goes to the pump, so it won't fall anywhere.

Once undone, the pipes can be pulled out from the rack. The O-rings go on the end of the pipes. The return pipe can be manipulated upward and completely removed and the o-ring easily swapped. See photo.Attachment 32648

The input pipe o-ring is harder to change in situ, so it makes things easier to manipulate the pipe out a little. Do this by un-clipping the pipe from plastic clips and undoing the 8mm bolt holding the pipe at the front of the engine (this can easily be done from above using a very long extension bar). This gives the end of pipe a lot more movement, and you can get both your hands on it to change the O-ring.

Manipulate the metal tube from the pump back into position and clip back in the clips. Now feed the tube going to the reservoir back down behind the engine, recalling the routing you noted earlier. It needs to go in front of the coolant tube on the back of the engine. One in correct position push the output pipe into the rack and then input pipe, and manipulate the metal clip around so it keeps the output pipe in position. I gave it a gentle tap with a hammer via an extension bar to secure the pipes.

Carefully offer up the 10mm bolt and tighten on the clip being sensitive to any mis-threading. As the bolt tightens, you should be able to see both tubes held snugly and evenly.

Replace the 8mm bolt holding the input line at the front of the engine on the subframe (arguably the hardest part of the job). :-)

Put the reservoir back in normal position and add fluid (more than you would normally) to the reservoir. With the return tube over an enclosed tray, have someone start the car and quickly shut it down when the fluid turns fresh green. Took about 2 seconds. (I managed to spray the fluid all over the engine bay hence "enclosed" tray - maybe a plastic bottle would work well :-) )

Reconnect the return hose to the bottom of the reservoir. Add more fluid as required. Start car again. Move steering wheel to extremes 5 or 6 times. Check fluid level and add if necessary. Check for leaks on the connections the rack.

I noted that the return tube felt loose still, a little stiffer than before, but still moving. Suspect this is why that O-ring fails. Should be careful in future not to disturb that return hose too much when working on that side of the engine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TenaciousC

Just an update as I think I've cracked it.

I got an O ring for both pipes, green is "in from PS pump" brown is "Return to Fluid Reservoir". The brown was the likely leaker as it was moving about quite a lot.

part numbers: 98819 and 988121 (Sorry didn't note which was which).

First I emptied the fluid reservoir into a tray and disconnect the tube going down behind the engine. Note the routing.

The 10 mm bolt that clamps on the pipes is accessible (just) using a 1/4" socket extension bar(s). Careful not to drop the bolt. The clamp is attached to the pipe that goes to the pump, so it won't fall anywhere.

Once undone, the pipes can be pulled out from the rack. The O-rings go on the end of the pipes. The return pipe can be manipulated upward and completely removed and the o-ring easily swapped. See photo.Attachment 32648

The input pipe o-ring is harder to change in situ, so it makes things easier to manipulate the pipe out a little. Do this by un-clipping the pipe from plastic clips and undoing the 8mm bolt holding the pipe at the front of the engine (this can easily be done from above using a very long extension bar). This gives the end of pipe a lot more movement, and you can get both your hands on it to change the O-ring.

Manipulate the metal tube from the pump back into position and clip back in the clips. Now feed the tube going to the reservoir back down behind the engine, recalling the routing you noted earlier. It needs to go in front of the coolant tube on the back of the engine. One in correct position push the output pipe into the rack and then input pipe, and manipulate the metal clip around so it keeps the output pipe in position. I gave it a gentle tap with a hammer via an extension bar to secure the pipes.

Carefully offer up the 10mm bolt and tighten on the clip being sensitive to any mis-threading. As the bolt tightens, you should be able to see both tubes held snugly and evenly.

Replace the 8mm bolt holding the input line at the front of the engine on the subframe (arguably the hardest part of the job). :-)

Put the reservoir back in normal position and add fluid (more than you would normally) to the reservoir. With the return tube over an enclosed tray, have someone start the car and quickly shut it down when the fluid turns fresh green. Took about 2 seconds. (I managed to spray the fluid all over the engine bay hence "enclosed" tray - maybe a plastic bottle would work well :-) )

Reconnect the return hose to the bottom of the reservoir. Add more fluid as required. Start car again. Move steering wheel to extremes 5 or 6 times. Check fluid level and add if necessary. Check for leaks on the connections the rack.

I noted that the return tube felt loose still, a little stiffer than before, but still moving. Suspect this is why that O-ring fails. Should be careful in future not to disturb that return hose too much when working on that side of the engine.

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Hi [emoji112] TenaciousC
Many thanks for the detailed explanation.
Would you be so kind to let me know where to get the
o-rings?
Cheers

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