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Enjoying this spell of warm weather, reminds me of the summer of 76, showing my age. Anyway, the R is not so keen and feels down on power, so considering a Snabb large intercooler upgrade. Anyone done this or can advise on whether its worth it?
P2 2005 V70R with 3 peddles.
Sorry for late reply.
Yes it's definitely worth it! Will transform the performance and improve all round response. I have a Tim Williams IC with just about the largest Core you can fit and it uses OE hoses. Fits like a glove, literally.
All other IC's are cheaper but more fiddly to fit and most require cutting the front end. They also don't use the stock hoses - so you gotta use silicone......which have a habit of popping off!
Anyways, if yours is/was down on power, I bet any money you like its split as they commonly do. Look for MAF faults codes, normally the give away.
Good luck. Lee.
DO88 is very poor quality, both in materials and construction..... way way overpriced too and chinese.
If you are serious buy the UK made alternative from Tim.
Don.
Contact for Tim
Thanks Lee, dont think anything is split etc. Just a very hot day. Will look into your suggestions, thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeT5
FB works under his nameQuote:
Originally Posted by abdul
Finally got the fmic fitted, dont shout at me but i had already purchased the snabb ultimate kit, and i am refgretting my choice.
Would like some advice though, as the fmic was fitted by a volvo garage and i took the car out for a test tonight. It was quite lumpy/jolty under wot until a final second gear hard pull brought the "reduced engine performance' light on with a jolt from the engine. The engine felt like it was lacking fuel whilst accelerating, could this be the reason?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaron
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaron
The clue was in your first post....the car was down on power (you said!), yet you proceeded to fit the SNABB FMIC anyway, without first making sure that the car was ready for such a big upgrade. :doh: Just because it was a hot day, wouldn't make a huge difference in power, that you could actually blame the weather! We all know that the hotter the air the less power output a turbo car will make, due to less air molecules = less power but, it wouldn't be so night and day that you would actually notice. It's clear to me that due to the car having an issue (more than likely a boost leak, MAF fault, internal air leak, cracked turbo, split in the IC, etc) the hotter weather just made the car work harder because it couldn't achieve target values, this in turn exacerbated the symptoms and made you think that the hot weather was to blame and not the fact that your right foot would have been closer to the carpet and therefore, closer to 100% WOT and meaning the target boost/values were never going to be reached.Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaron
How could you be so sure that the IC was not split? did you actually check?? We'll never know now!!
Anyway, it doesn't matter because you've had a nice new shiny one fitted (with no split) but utilising more silicone connectors and hose clamps than was originally designed. This now means there are more areas that can leak or be problematic in the future...which they will be, whether or not it was fitted correctly.
Anyway, you asked for advice, so here it is;
Take the car back to Volvo and ask them to carry out a fault code check followed by a 'smoke leak' test. This will expose some issues.
Whilst it's there, ask them to remove the two 'one way valves' that reside in the vacuum tubing. There is one under the inlet manifold and the other is to the passenger side of the engine in the vacuum tubing leading to the PCT nipple on the air intake hose after the MAF. They need to check the integrity of those two valves as they are known to leak over time and will not be exposed on the smoke leak test. They can be tested using a Mityvac or similar tool (they will need to be pressurised and vacuum tested to around 13 psi in equal measure), as stock boost on a V70R '05 is 12 psi.
Once any leaks have been fixed as a result of the smoke leak test (MAF to Turbo hose is also a favourite and they crack at the turbo end) your next step is to replace the TCV, they get slower over time. Then double check the RED, YELLOW and BLUE Vacuum lines from the TCV are clear of carbon build up and not fatigued or split (common place next to the turbo).
Once they have carried out the above checks, then I would ask them to reread the fault codes after several drive cycles and see what comes back. Then they can start to iron out the cars issues methodically.
If they just steam in with diagnostics to read the fault codes (there is likely to be a few) then, if any are in relation to boost leaks and they haven't carried out a proper smoke leak test, I'm afraid they will be chasing their tails for hours and hours trying to fix the cars faults and each time they read fault codes, different codes will come back at different stages and drive cycles.
Who ever you take it to, needs to have a good understanding of the S60R/V70R model.
I have to ask...why seek advice on a forum if you were intending on getting it anyway? Then get the SNABB (despite advice against it) have it fitted anyway and wonder why you've got issues with the car?
Not really the right way to do it, is it? :cuckoo:
I recommend you take it to a Volvo specialist, unless your local Dealer is s h i t hot and the tech has profound knowledge of the R and it's prolific boost issues.
Good luck!