Cams C70T5 cams in a V70 T5 (2.3) with 2.4 block....

Problem

I've got an engine with a 2.4l block and a 2.3 head that has been ported - this was assembled by Shem a couple of years ago and has sat dormant whilst I've been building the rest of the project.

I did a leak down test on it just now and it seems to have no seal at TDC - air is coming out of the exhaust, and when I rotate the cam it doesn't seem to have any point where it is sealed for both exhaust and inlet at the same time, though both do independently seal at some points during the rotation.

Factors:

This is the same on all cylinders.

Leak down was done on a cold engine - not ideal I know.

The cams came from what I think was a 99 C70 T5 and the ported head I'm not 100% sure but think its a v70 2002 T5 - do these have different cams?

Timing marks are all aligned on the pulleys.




Suspected problems:

Timing out

Cams are of a different shape to the native ones in the head - anyone know if they are interchangable between the C70 and the V70?

I'm a monkey for trying to mate these parts together.




I've recently changed a head and accidentally ended up with a LPT 2.4 head rather than a HPT head which resulted in no compression as the cams were retained from the HPT and put into the LPT. I feel that I've somehow ended up with this again!

Let me know your thoughts!

Not played with the cams yet on mine, but straight off the top of my head it sounds like your timing is 180degs out and overlap is happening on the compression stroke. ..just a thought as it would look correct on alignment but crank 180degs out ...possibly

That sould read above a full revolution out on the crank...not 180degs

think I've probably had to much cold medicine worth a look though ..:sick:

Thanks - I'll give it a test tomorrow when I get back - my concern is that there seems to be little or no overlap with the cams being closed. However, I'm not with the engine now so running on memory at the moment...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nickallen1984

Thanks - I'll give it a test tomorrow when I get back - my concern is that there seems to be little or no overlap with the cams being closed. However, I'm not with the engine now so running on memory at the moment...

---

I'm getting more confused the more I think about, the exhaust and inlet cams aren't in the wrong sides, does it have vvt on 1 or both cams........think I'd better head for another medicinal brandy

Me too :hilarious

It has VVT on the exhaust only.

I'm going to check the notches at the other end when I get back in as well. Memory doesn't serve well during this Christmas period...

There is a lot of leakage on both rotations so surely 360 out would simply switch which is compression and which is exhaust strokes... Correct me if I'm wrong!

But if the crank is at tdc and all the cam notches are right then it should all be good and I've not heard of Shem doing things wrong...got to be a simple explanation

Neither have I - I sent him the cams, so I think it's me to blame for sending them... But still don't know if the 99 c70t5 ones are different to those of the 2002 v70t5 ones... That feels like the largest suspect. Either that or I'm doing the leak down totally wrong.....!

Took the timing belt off completely and re did the timing - timing is now spot on - the only thing is that there still is hissing from the exhaust side when sealed - does this mean I'll have to relap the valve seats?

The engine is clod when I do this - will warming it up close the gaps? I assume not as you lap them when cold...<br />

Sounds a great improvement over what you had before...sticky lifter possibly if it's been sitting around for a while

In my own experience of engine building , and i have done some, you will always hear a hiss on manual turnover....

You say the engine has been standing for a while and all the more reason for hiss as the oil lubrication when assembled has all probably dried and leaked away.

Squirt some oil in the combustion chamber then try and it should reduce the hiss and give a higher compression, don`t forget it is cold also.

Also don`t forget the parts are not run in as you will get more compression after so many miles of gentle running in.

Oil/lubricant is a very good shout - I've just put this together before seeing that - I'll do another test soon with some oil in - anyhow - here is a better view of what I'm currently getting


The readings are quite high - 60%-80% - but the leak down tester isn't great, so even if the tester is disconnected it still reads 80%....


Here are the cylinder readings:


Cylinder 1:
Attachment 31294


Cylinder 2:
Attachment 31295
Cylinder 3:

Attachment 31296
Cylinder 4:

Attachment 31297
Cylinder 5:
Attachment 31298



Here is the part supplied from the leak down test (gold) which has the shrader valve and the one from the compression tester I already have (silver) which has no valve. Having a valve in there makes no sense to me as there is no air getting into the cylinder - is this correct? surely you need the air going through into the cylinder and not stopped by the valve? I tested the one with the valve when not connected to the cylinder and it doesn't let any air out at all all the way to the maximum open position on the regulator.

Attachment 31299

Anyway - here is the video of the issues I think I have....


FORGOT to mention in the video as it's just been pointed out! - the engine has not run for 2 years at least (I've owned it that long, it may have been longer) - it is likely that the oil has dried a bit too!

This has been mentioned by a few people on different forums, so hoping that this will be a large cause of the leak!) - I added this after the video was taken so it is not mentioned in it.

https://youtu.be/H1cm1cCgP7k


&nbsp;