Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?
Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
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Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?
Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
I used, in the following order, Loctite7200 and a scraper, dishwasher cycle :D and WD40 and a brush.
WD40 and the brush was the most effective method to remove deposits from unreachable corners on the pan, as it's a very good solvent.
I used just what I had at home, and I don't recommend the dishwasher because is very salty and will attack the aluminium
The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.
Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
My best effort to clean head and block:
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It doesn't look like new but I think it has improved a lot.
Good progress!
This week I had the time to finish it, Loctite with a roller and tapped the new seals with the old AG sleeve:
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and fired it up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lM11LAvK88
First start was a little noisy, but already less than before. The video still somehow makes it sound like a bag of spanners but it's so much better. Yesterday was even a tad better, I think it just needs to be driven.
The main problem now is noise on the VVT pulleys (intake I think). I couldn't tighten the pulleys in their marks, so I did my best effort to it and then finely adjusted with the tree bolts that hold the gear to the hub.
To be honest, the VIDA procedure is described like ££££, talking about turning left or right instead of clockwise/counterclockwise and I didn't understand. So I did it my way (which seems to not work properly) and turned the hub completely clockwise, tightened the hub and finally adjust the gear to the marks, as tightening the hub always made it impossible to nail the marks.
I will re-do the timing and see if it improves. The noise is especially worse on warm startup :shifty: Any ideas how to properly do the VVT timing?
Covid still delaying stuff, but wheels are almost there after 3 months :lol:
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And the bloody angle gear is still in Sweden and the guy isn't responding to my mails. Busy guy it seems :B_program
Sounds a lot better! The tapping noise is more uniform across the engine by the sound of it.
Hopefully it is sorted now :)
I'm collecting them tonight :)
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So I finally received my remanufactured angle gear from Maskin&Bil in Sweden.
First impression is that it isn't very clean and that the output seal for the right driveshaft was missing (it was my old one, still broken)
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Let's see how long this lasts:
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Sealing details:
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On a second glance I see this (what the actual F is it?):
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I gave it a quick clean and fitted the "new style" breather I bought:
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Then applied some mayonnaise, because we all love it:
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It was at this point I realized that half of the angle gear isn't mine, because the bolt marks are in a different hole (maybe this case was coming from an automatic car):
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So I basically know that my angle gear input shaft is mine because the driveshaft seal is broken in the same fashion. The output shaft isn't mine because I could not find the marks I did to fit the propeller shaft in the same position. Also this case is much more scraped than mine was. I wonder if all this was worth the 630€ I paid in total. Time will tell.
I also find very difficult to torque the bolts at the specified 75Nm. They feel as if the thread is going to break :help: Anyone had this feel before? Using new bolts, of course.
On my 850 AWD the bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 50Nm. Also my angle gear has that extra bolt hole.
Checking the Volvo info the P2 AWDs are supposed to be 75Nm like you say.
That angle gear is a mess, I hope they have cleaned the inside properly as the oil gets really sludgy (check my project thread to see what mine was like before I cleaned it).
Problem is the bearings are supposed to have shims to properly match the input shaft differences (from what I gather). If they've used a different case then I hope they set it up properly! Looking at the quality of the work I'd be doubting it. That's a lot of money for what looks like just cutting off the old splines and welding new splines onto the input shaft, I'd be expecting it to shine for that price!
I wonder if it went through any treatment or hardening process of some sort, sadly I'd not expect it to last very well without something additional to that already described...
Yeah, I agree with both of you. We'll see how long it lasts.
Meawhile I went and bought some paint:
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Not bad for 11€. In the last picture you can see bottom original colour, top sprayed, quite close.
The OEM colour is more brownish I'd say and less glossy, but to me looks good.
Hard to see the difference in the photos, nicely done!
In July I fought the damn couriers, because the original radiator was leaking (wow, unexpected from a P2) and EVERY SINGLE radiator arriving home was either bent or broken. Three radiators arrived home, none of them good.
Anyway, I finally gave up and went round the corner to my local scrapyard (always my last option because in this side of the country prices are ridiculous) and got myself an amazing S80 radiator without the auto box lines :smile:
It was a PITA to change because of the weight of the DO88 IC (is it made of steel????:crazy:)
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After this, I fitted new genuine front ARB links and the short shaft, the one with the RZEPPA joint: it wasn't difficult in the end, I kept the shaft at an angle and put the balls while turning the whole assembly. Some 98 petrol, quick wash and was ready to go out for a spin:
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As a curiosity, a good friend of mine, who bought his p2 almost at the same time last year, has also just finished it:
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He's tried to do a replica of the S60 challenge and I've to say I love it. It was a Maya Yellow T5 with beige/sand interior, completely sunburnt inside and outside. Now it's a Passion Red with black leather/textile interior + Nebulas on Eibach springs. And backbox delete, because :riceboy:
Not too shabby!
Clutch lasted for one week after he finished it :rally_dri
The project slowly goes forward, after my recent paternity I didn't find much time and sometimes family visiting would last up to one month... :help:
During the first day, the car had a blowing TME exhaust and was overboosting. I hadn't use any exhaust assembly paste, thinking the TME stuff would seal perfectly. It is sorted now.
The overboosting problem I think it comes from the wastegate actuator. After my turbo rebuild, the shop left the compressor housing with the wrong angle and I had to rotate, changing the effective displacement of the wastegate rod. So I removed some tension (one full turn) and it didn't overboost, then added half a turn and still goes OK, but feels slow when compared with the T5. I'll look at it more carefully.
Then there was the "too high fuel pressure", that I wasn't able to solve with the new FPS or PEM. Will carefully check everything with a multimeter.
And finally, there was some problems with the lights: I've an intermitent bi-xenon solenoid failure on the left headlight and a permanent failure with the beam height adjustment. I'm also looking into that.
Once everything is sorted it will be MOT (ITV here) time.
I'm also looking into some TME springs, as I don't like the ride height ATM