HOW TO: Replace rear brake pads.

Here’s a quick wee guide I've put together with piccys to replacing the Volvo S70/C70/V70 rear Brake pads as I did mine on Sunday. This is a simple procedure that takes about an hour and a half to complete and the results will ensure you always have secure, safe & reliable brakes.

Please do not attempt to carry out this procedure if you are in any doubt about your ability to work on the brakes. They are the most important safety feature on any car and should not be tampered with unless you know exactly what you are doing.

To begin, put a brick in front of each of the front tyres, loosen the 5 alloy wheel bolts and jack the car up (Axel stands are recommended at this point). With the car safely in the air, remove the 5 wheel bolts and alloy wheel from the car. With the alloy wheel now removed, you’ll be able to see the brake caliper and brake disc as shown in the piccy below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes78.jpg

Now if you go to the rear bumper and look at the Brake disc & Caliper, you will be able to see the brake pads held in place by a little metal crucifix and two horizontal bars (retaining pins) as seen here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes80.jpg

First of all, we have to remove the two retaining pins. To do this, simply use a Hole Punch and tap with a hammer from the outside face of the disc/caliper, inwards towards the car’s body as shown in the next photograph (Start with the top retaining pin):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes82.jpg

And then tap out the bottom retaining pin:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes84.jpg

With both retaining pins fully removed from the caliper, the metal crucifix will simply lift out and you will now have the following:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes87.jpg

With the metal crucifix and matching retaining pins now removed, if you look at the rear of the caliper once again, you will now have full access to the two brake pads as shown in the following photo:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes88.jpg

Using a pair of Long Nose Pliers, simply pull the first pad towards the rear of the car and it should slide out like a drawer. If, like my pads, yours have been in there for quite some time, you may have to wiggle them up and down a little before they eventually come out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes90.jpg

Then slide the other brake pad out using the Pliers:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes94.jpg

With both pads now removed from the caliper, you can clearly see where they once sat within the caliper housing and the brake disc is clearly visible in the middle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes95.jpg

Here are the old pads once removed from the car:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes96.jpg

And here are the new pads that are to be now fitted to the car:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...arBrakes99.jpg

Now, before the brake pads can be fitted, you’ll have to make sure there’s space in the caliper to house two new pads. Open your bonnet to allow yourself access to the engine bay and take the cap off of the brake fluid reserve in order to stop any back pressure damagin the system. Return to the brake caliper and using a pair of Water Pliers, gently push the caliper piston back into the caliper housing as illustrated below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...rBrakes100.jpg

With the piston now retracted, you can apply some Copper Grease to the rear of the pads (DO NOT apply to the front of the pad – the side that touches the brake disc) as shown:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...rBrakes103.jpg

Now simply slide the two new brakes pads back into the caliper housing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...rBrakes104.jpg

And then put the metal crucifix and two retaining pins back into their original positions:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...rBrakes105.jpg

Lastly, re-bolt the alloy wheel to the car and then lower gently to the ground. With the axel stands and jack removed, ensure the brake fluid level is sitting between the MIN & MAX levels. Put the cap back on the brake fluid reserve and tighten the wheel bolts.

thanks for info

Nice pics, that is a LOT of copper grease.

Just seen your other post about the TRACS/ABS lights, looks like i'm gona need it :o Mine came on once last month but went out the next day, lets hope they stay out.

Wow man you sure do like your coppergrease! excellent write up, good clean pics.

You could've mentioned that it is best to clean the pins with emerycloth to allow the pads to slide freely (some coppergrease also should be used). I would also mention checking the disc edge for "stepping" and corrossion, the latter should be removed with a small hammer and gentle taps this helps the disc to cool as the uneven rusty portion can hold heat longer, stepping is normal but if the step is too large on one side then you could have a stuck calliper or slides depending on the set up, and if the stepping is excessive the discs should be replaced. all just imo.

Cheers for the feedback, folks.

Condyboy - you know; I was about to mention it, but you did it for me ;)

for a few quid i would get a new spring kit including pins..... its just too goddam scottish emery clothing pins

http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=3507

Just had my car serviced today and they said the rear pads are about 70% worn so will need some new ones in the future. Didn't ask how much to get it done, but reading this i might give it ago myself depending on the cost of the stuff.

Just wondering what rear brake pads people would reccomend? as PFV do there own for a good price

If you do 70% less braking then you won't have to replace them at all!!!! LOL... EASY PEASEY! do it yourself and contact Rufe on the forum for genuine discounted parts!!!!!!!!