On and off power

Ok. Been driving the new car a few days now since passing it's mot on Saturday. I've noticed. Especially when cold. That the car tends to die on me especially in 2nd gear. A bit like turning the ignition off. After a few hundred yards it's sort of ok. Once warmed up you can be driving feeling like you have all 240 horses then the next time you pull away it feels half of them have escaped and then next time they're back! On the way home when i collected the car it threw up three fault codes. One was abs related. One was the crank sensor and the other was number 4 coil pack. I reset everything and they have stayed off for about 60 miles. Could a faulty crank sensor be doing this? My understanding is they cause poor starting when they fail

My car is a 99 t5 manual with 190k miles

Forgot to mention car won't rev over 4K rpm when stationary but fine when driving.

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Originally Posted by Jofenan

Ok. Been driving the new car a few days now since passing it's mot on Saturday. I've noticed. Especially when cold. That the car tends to die on me especially in 2nd gear. A bit like turning the ignition off. After a few hundred yards it's sort of ok. Once warmed up you can be driving feeling like you have all 240 horses then the next time you pull away it feels half of them have escaped and then next time they're back! On the way home when i collected the car it threw up three fault codes. One was abs related. One was the crank sensor and the other was number 4 coil pack. I reset everything and they have stayed off for about 60 miles. Could a faulty crank sensor be doing this? My understanding is they cause poor starting when they fail

My car is a 99 t5 manual with 190k miles

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When Crank sensors get hot, they build up static. If the sensor is in poor condition or the tip is covered in oil (from an oil leak) or clutch dust/dirt, then this will obviously affect it's ability to pulse and can cause cutting out issues. If there is no contamination on the sensor, then generally, the car will always start ok but typically suffer with stalling once warmed up.
If the sensor is caked in crud, then you'll normally have poor starting and runnning issues.

You've done the right thing in clearing the codes, you just need to continue driving it until it faulters again, then read the codes and see what comes back.

Coils are not normally an issue with these cars, though yours has done nearly 200k. Have you checked the plugs recently? If they've not been changed in a long while 20k +, then I'd fit new plugs. Make sure you inspect the condition of the plugs when you remove them, as they tell an interesting story and can reveal an issue with the engine, if there is one! They should all look dry, lightish brown and have no Oil deposits on them (which will look like hard, white blisters and be almost impossible to remove). Fit genuine plugs and you'll do no wrong ;)

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Originally Posted by Jofenan

Forgot to mention car won't rev over 4K rpm when stationary but fine when driving.

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If the car is stationary then there will be no ABS sensor pulse, so the ECU will know the car is staionary. Therefore, why do you need to rev the nuts of it? If it revs over 4k when driving, then clearly, the driver is at fault! :nutkick:

It's only a £20 part so may just change it anyway. The car had a flat battery when I picked it up. When I googled the fault code for the coil pack it said it may have been triggered by a car with a recent flat battery so I'm not too fussed about that fault just yet. Car came with full main dealer history but all I got was the stamped service book. I'm going to email the dealer in Surrey and hopefully they can tell me any work that was carried out.

What are the correct plugs for the car. I read there were different variants?

And I was looking at different exhausts on YouTube and the owners were revving way over 4K. Hence I wondered if I had a fault