Jap imported V70R

Hello chaps

I've been away for a while, but I'm seriously now looking to get another V70R, this time a phase 2. Have noticed that there are quite a few Jap imports knocking about on eBay, with considerably lower miles than UK stock. What I want to know is this................are the common fail items like splined sleeve, split liner, etc, more common to happen on higher mileage cars. Was thinking that if I bought a low mileage Jap import, could I also buy myself a few years of trouble free motoring before all the problems start?

To be honest, the V70R is probably not the most sensible choice for a daily driver, covering 15,000 miles on average a year, but it is an itch that will not go away.

Any pros or cons for the Jap verson?

Cheers Darren

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Originally Posted by MisterC1501

Hello chaps

I've been away for a while, but I'm seriously now looking to get another V70R, this time a phase 2. Have noticed that there are quite a few Jap imports knocking about on eBay, with considerably lower miles than UK stock. What I want to know is this................are the common fail items like splined sleeve, split liner, etc, more common to happen on higher mileage cars. Was thinking that if I bought a low mileage Jap import, could I also buy myself a few years of trouble free motoring before all the problems start?

To be honest, the V70R is probably not the most sensible choice for a daily driver, covering 15,000 miles on average a year, but it is an itch that will not go away.

Any pros or cons for the Jap version?

Cheers Darren

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Low mileage is one thing but if the car has not been properly maintained then it won't make any difference.
Also depends on how it's been driven. The splines normally wear because of being driven too hard, launching, harsh gear changes etc.

IMHO, it doesn't matter whether it's done high or low miles. It's all about whether it's been meticulously maintained or just a basic oil change and filters once a year.

You'll take your chances on what ever V70R you buy.

One thing is though, the 15k a year you plan on doing is not excessive and will keep it running along nicely.

Just make sure you have the engine overhauled ie Timing belt, tensioners, WP and block shimmed once you get it into the UK.

You also need to ensure you will be happy with the jap spec or whether you will want to convert it back to UK spec. In that I mean the simple stuff like speedo in Miles rather than Km, all DIM info being in Japanese language, and HU may also be in Japanese. I think it’s only the dealership that can reprogramme the modules, but the DIM may have to be changed completely. Not 100%, but do your research before biting the bullet as it could cost hundreds of pounds to correct. Also make sure you get 2 keys. The small stuff sometimes causes the biggest inconvenience!

I'm aware of the speedo reading in kilometers, and also that the car may not be undersealed, due to Japan not using salt on their roads. I'll have to enquire how they change the speedo reading from km to miles. Thanks for the gen about the DIM........Ill ask a volvo main dealer.

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Originally Posted by MisterC1501

I'm aware of the speedo reading in kilometers, and also that the car may not be undersealed, due to Japan not using salt on their roads. I'll have to enquire how they change the speedo reading from km to miles. Thanks for the gen about the DIM........Ill ask a volvo main dealer.

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It's done using VIDA.

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Originally Posted by LeeT5

Low mileage is one thing but if the car has not been properly maintained then it won't make any difference.
Also depends on how it's been driven. The splines normally wear because of being driven too hard, launching, harsh gear changes etc.

IMHO, it doesn't matter whether it's done high or low miles. It's all about whether it's been meticulously maintained or just a basic oil change and filters once a year.

You'll take your chances on what ever V70R you buy.

One thing is though, the 15k a year you plan on doing is not excessive and will keep it running along nicely.

Just make sure you have the engine overhauled ie Timing belt, tensioners, WP and block shimmed once you get it into the UK.

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What is the shimming of the block and why does it need to be done I am looking at a 39000 import
Many Thanks

On the V70R/S60R engine, they have cylinder liners and there is a design flaw in that when the white block engine was bored out, in the factory, from 81mm to the 83mm required for 2521cc, this made the liners too thin for the expected boost and cylinder temperatures to handle. This results, over time and is dependent on a few factors (mainly fuel type used, regularity of and quality of oil changes and driver input) would cause the liners to crack, not always but resulting in combustion gases pressurising the cooling system, overheating and worst case head gasket failure.

Fuel grade is vital. The S60R/V70R was never designed to run on anything less than 98RON. Despite the handbook saying it can run on 95 RON, it does specify 98RON for the R model. Running 95RON will increase cylinder temps resulting in pre detonation of the fuel. The ECM will retard the ignition to prevent pre ignition (or knock) and therefore result in less power output and increased fuel consumption. This is more prevalent in all turbo charged engines and worth considering using a higher octane fuel...99 RON is perfect and sold in all Shell and Tesco forecourts. BP and ESSO max out at 97 RON (not worth it IMO). The higher the RON, the more resistance to knock.

If your running a remapped car and higher boost, have a heavy right foot, service every 12.5k (as per V70R/S60R service book recommendations) and use piss thin 0W30 (as recommended by Volvo) or even 5W30 (still not good enough as the shear point is way too low), then expect issues regarding cracked liners from as little as 30k on these cars.

Shimming the liners places a thin piece of stainless steel plate between the liner and the block main structure. This aids heat dispersal and stops the liners expanding under extreme temperature and prevents the liners from cracking.

The only good thing about imported R's from Japan, other than the very low mileage, is the availability of petroleum fuel with a RON as high as 103RON being readily available in Japan. If the owner in Japan is savvy, then they would likely have used 103RON (but your never going to know that).

My advice if you import an R from Japan is:

Drive the car straight to a Volvo specialist and have them remove the head and shim the block, replacing the timing belt, tensioners, Cylinder head gasket and WP in the process.
Only fill your R with Tesco Momentum 99 RON or Shell V-power 99 RON.
Carry out a FULL service, including coolant flush/refill with OEM coolant and use a higher grade, good quality engine oil. I recommend a 10W50 grade oil, ie, FUCHS Race Pro S.
Reduce the oil service intervals to every 6k or yearly but no more than 10k in 1 year.
At 80k make sure you have a Timing belt service (to bring the car back into service spec) and ensure you also change the PCV system in its entirety. Whilst I appreciate the 80k service will set you back at least £500-£1000 (depending on what else needs changing), having owned 2 V70R's and my current car for over 10 years, if I could go back and do it all again (knowing what I know now and gleaming over the years from knowledgeable ppl on this and other forums) I would do exactly what I have just advised you.

R's take a lot of patience and meticulous looking after but the reward will be ultra reliability, from a daily driver perspective. Apart from the practicality side of things with the V70R, it'll never leave you stranded at the side of the road and it will always surprise you and put a smile on your face.

Once you get on top of the maintenance and fix the 'issues' that will rear their ugly head now and again, you can start tuning and playing but always keep your feet on the ground and remember that they are not racing cars and were never designed as such. :D

I wish you the best of luck with your R :B_thumb: and remember.......

:worthless

So how much would I be looking at for the shimming and is there a specialist you would recommend
And thankyou very much for spending the time on such a long but very informative reply today is a school day
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...levance&page=1
Or
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...levance&page=1

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Originally Posted by CALICO

So how much would I be looking at for the shimming and is there a specialist you would recommend
And thankyou very much for spending the time on such a long but very informative reply today is a school day
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...levance&page=1
Or
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...levance&page=1

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Your looking at around £800-£1000 for this work and the only garage I'd now recommend to do it is http://www.kingsmotors.co.uk/ You'd need to ring for confirmation of price.

I was going to recommend another 'one man band' but unfortunately he's unreliable. I'm not going to name names but let's just say, I wouldn't bother.

The Dark Gray 03 R is by far the better car in terms of mileage and condition.
If it wasn't for the fact the Sonic blue R has been blatantly messed with, non stock radio, stupid Ultraviolet interior lights and the biggest let down is the fact it's sitting on cheap, replica (non genuine) alloys, then I would have said the Sonic.
However, a good quality set of straight 18" Pegasus R alloys can be snapped up on eBay for around the £800 mark.....unfortunately, they are rarer than hen's teeth and last seconds at auction! A genuine set will set you back around £2000! A decent quality HU803 radio can be bought for around £200 and readily available from Radio sellers or eBay and the like. Pay £1000 from a main dealer for a reconditioned head unit.

Both cars will have their own issues, no doubt, but the Sonic R Haldex system is slightly more advanced as the CANBUS 03'-04' - CANL - speed = 125kbps, CANH - speed = 250 kbps but on a 05'> - CANL - speed = 250 kbps, CANH - speed = 500kbps.
The Haldex DEM pump is also pre priming the system rather than the earlier models >05 which only activate when slip is detected. This equates to a slightly smoother operation of the Haldex system and a general improvement in handling with regards to the 4C suspension. Though in the real world, you may not notice any difference.
My Haldex DEM, DEM pump, DEM pressure sensor, DEM oil and filter are all new (less than 18 months old) and I can assure you, there ain't no slip or wheelspin for sure! The only thing that lets go is the tyres on the limit and you'll be breaking all normal road speed limits at that point! :saythat::B_steerin

If it were my money, I'd definitely by the 03 model all day long! :B_thumb: The HU in that car looks like a basic model, but Volvo do an exchange programme, so you could upgrade to a Premium sound system and better HU.

If not installed, a Sub Woofer is available from https://en.bildelsbasen.se/se-sv/OEM/8648371/

A detailed list Lee. Note the road tax is quoted as £265 (not) when in reality you’ll find out its £325 as I just got my annual road tax reminder!

Many Thanks Lee it is outside of the work they can do but gave me a name of Tim Williams .
uqj83l is yours an import ?

Hi
Mine isn’t an import, are you suggesting that the road tax for an imported car would be less than an identical UK car?

This may be the case

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Originally Posted by CALICO

Many Thanks Lee it is outside of the work they can do but gave me a name of Tim Williams .
uqj83l is yours an import ?

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Best of luck

...and No, Bill's car is not an import.

I decided against it I was quoted £650 for the shimming which sounds too cheap so bought an xc70 ocean race instead