does a fuel pump give fault code when its on its way out ?
my cars (s60 D5 geartronic)is holding back when i give it jip on a incline
think pump is suspect (filters been changed)
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does a fuel pump give fault code when its on its way out ?
my cars (s60 D5 geartronic)is holding back when i give it jip on a incline
think pump is suspect (filters been changed)
What code is it giving and which pump do you suspect? Tank or HP fuel pump?
so many sensors on diesels these days that i doubt its the pump. if the intank pump if knackered the car wont run. if it was the hp pump then the car woulnt run either as teh injectors would be full of iron off the pump breaking down. it would be worn injectors sticky vains in turbo. cam sensor crank sensor the list gose on. get the codes read. you cant guess faults on these cars
Wouldn't rule out a boost leak tbh
Not true.Quote:
Originally Posted by graemewelch
My D5 started and ran fine with a knackered in tank pump, didn't give any fault codes either.
Also check the EGR valve.
If the in tank fuel pump is playing up then you can easily check the pump is working correctly by checking two things:
1) Voltage on the fuel pump fuse
2) Correct Amp draw on the fuel pump fuse (in tank one)
If the HP pump is not working then your more likely to get fault codes relating to 'Low fuel rail pressure' and possibly faults relating to all 5 Fuel injectors.
All common rail diesel's need at least 280bar in the fuel rail before they will start. You can check this in 'live readings' or on VIDA/VADIS.
The most common reason for a non start or cut out/non start on a common rail diesel is a faulty fuel pressure sensor or fuel pressure regulator. Both can be checked using a multi meter with thin needle probes into the pressure sensor wiring. Your looking for 5v - meaning the sensor is working. Your also gonna look for 0.5v which will rise to 1.2v on crank. This indicates you have fuel rail pressure. If you don't get the rising voltage then either your sensor is knackered or the pump is shot.
problem is car isnt showing any fault codes .
runs fine other than holding back when half throttle or more.
what problems where you getting with yours ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosser
This has happened to me just this week. Mine started and ran, but felt lethargic and was definitely lacking power, I guess the HP fuel pump was taking the extra load and could possibly have been damaged have I left it longer. My car was going into limp usually when I accelerated onto a motorway but it was inconsistent and would sometimes be ok. The fault code it was coming up with was cem3a03 - Fuel pump. Signal too Low.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosser
On further inspection the lift pump fuse was blown and when the fuse was replaced it blew that too. I had a used pump fitted to mine for £120 fitted, they are around £300 new from Volvo and apparently you can't buy just the pump on its own from Bosch either! With the pump replaced it feels much stronger and pulls better than it was doing previously.
Mainly running out of fuel when the gauge still showed fuel in the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by jodiexii
The fuel tank is a saddle type and relies on the in tank pump to move fuel from the left side to the right side. If the pump doesn't work then the fuel in the left side of the tank is unavailable so you end up 'running out' even when there is fuel in there.
Although Garett says you can't buy the pump, you can use the pump from a t5 to rebuild the swirl pot/pump assembly. That's what I did. You can also buy a kit from PFV - http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=4515
I wrote a more detailed thread on t5d5 here: http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/22786-d...my-experience/
Is the kit hard to fit ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosser
Use car for work