Can I clean it all better?

My V70 Classic is looking a bit worse for wear and this never became as apparent until yesterday when I washed and polished her.

To give you an idea as to why she is so bad is this. The car lay for about a year and a half idol in my Dads driveway in the country (trees, birds etc etc). Since I've been driving it past year to my complete shame I think I've maybe washed it 3 times. I know my dad washed it once or twice while he had it, so maybe half a dozen times in almost three years. The paint is faded badly and actually feels flat and dirty. Its not faded like you'd see in a Vauxhall, you can still tell what colour it is but there is no sparkle. There is quite a few stone chips around the front and my mother borrowed it 2 weeks ago and kissed a cement pillar with it. Is there any magic formula out there that I can use to bring the car back to its glory. The cement kiss left a few scratches to the drivers side front bumper nothing major. I really don't want to spend the money on a respray so please help.

My camera is broke so can't post any pics and yes I know I should be shot for letting the car get into this condition.

Best to give it a damn good wash, followed by a claying and then if the paints still flat a good machine polishing.

You'll have to forgive the stupidity but Claying?

Yup, it's a soft clay like substance, depending on what brand you buy you use either soapy water with it or the recomended lubricant, rub it across the paint work and it will remove any ground in muck,road tar,bird poo etc and leave the paint baby smooth.

A ha will be going to see if I can get some of that tomorrow. How does it appear on scratchs and chips though?

i've shown these pics a few times, think you may find them useful. first pic is the day after i bought it. i had just washed it and took a picture. there's no reflections at all, the paintworks just dull.

second pic is after i clayed it, megs deep cleanse stage 1, stage 2 and then a wax on top. all done by hand.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...3092006001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7092006003.jpg

no swirl removal done as you need a machine (i got one afterwards, need to do it again actually) and it's not the only way to do it, just that it worked for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irf

i've shown these pics a few times, think you may find them useful. first pic is the day after i bought it. i had just washed it and took a picture. there's no reflections at all, the paintworks just dull.

second pic is after i clayed it, megs deep cleanse stage 1, stage 2 and then a wax on top. all done by hand.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...3092006001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7092006003.jpg

no swirl removal done as you need a machine (i got one afterwards, need to do it again actually) and it's not the only way to do it, just that it worked for me.

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Thats unbelievable mate. I think there may be light at the end of the tunnel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by volvoturboman

A ha will be going to see if I can get some of that tomorrow. How does it appear on scratchs and chips though?

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Clay wont fix scratches or chips, for that you'll need to invest in a touch up pen or possibly some sort of cutting compound if the scratches aren't deep.

Cheers again mate, I presume if I get the touch up pen and do all the chips and scratchs first, then clay it would be the right way to go.

clay just removes crap that bonds itself to your paintwork. over time a LOT of crap does this. when you rub your hand over the car if it feels rough to the touch, a good claying will help loads. it's surprising how dull it makes the paintwork as well.

same time as the above pics, it was a while ago but i think this was after just claying half of the bonnet

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...claybonnet.jpg

and then the other half

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...laybonnet2.jpg

If it does that I'm gonna need about a thousand cloths lol. Does the clay lift tar spots as well or do I need to Tcut also?

Clay will remove small light tar spots, but when I did mine, I brought some AG Tar remover and used a cloth to target the effected spots.

I will add to what was said earlier.

Get a good car shampoo, something like Megs gold class/or the NXT, a couple of buckets, and a wash mitt, preferably lambs wool one. Why two buckets - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=103943

This is what started it all off for me, just by watching that video. I have just progressed from there on.

Dry the car using a waffle weave drying towel (megs water magnet for example) Best to dab rather than wipe when drying.

Then use Megs quick clay and detailer spray. I brake the clay bar up into thirds, that way if I drop a bit I can throw it in the bin and get another piece.
Do a panel, half a door, 3rd of a bonnet etc at a time. Once you have done a section, wipe the residue away with a clean Microfibre cloth.

Re wash then you know you are starting from a clean base. Polish, something like Auto Glym Super Resin Polish applied using a Megs MF (Microfibre) applicator pad. Then wax, get a good wax, apparently the new Auto Glym HD wax is really good, but a pig to remove once it has cured. I have been told that it gets easier the more times you use it. Get this from ebay, not halfords.

A little guide of products you could buy.

Cars get dirty. But there’s more than just dirt and rain spots clinging to your car’s exterior. Airborne industrial pollutants, acid rain, dead bugs, tree sap and bird droppings can all degrade the paint. Modern car ­finishes are all covered with a clear coat to protect the pigmented main layer, but even this UV-resistant outer layer will last longer if you maintain it. Keep things clean and waxed to repel water and pollutants.

The same goes for your car’s interior. That slimy patina of French fries, Big Gulp, sweat and dirt will eventu­ally turn your interior into a primordial swamp. Shampoo the cloth seats to remove all that gunk. Now, forget what you think you know. There’s nothing under your kitchen sink that’s appropriate for washing or cleaning your car, except maybe the glass cleaner. Leave the dish detergent for the dishes, and use a proper car-washing solution. Clean the window glass last to catch all the oversprayed cleaning products.

Leather seats deserve a proper leather cleaner, followed by leather conditioner to replenish the skin’s natural oils. Save the protectant for the dashboard. I strongly recommend against using protectant on the steering wheel and rubber pedals, because it can reduce your grip to dangerous levels.

Park in the shade while washing and waxing to prevent the heat of the sun from drying off the car and making water spots before you can dry them. Wet the surface beforehand to help dissolve the bug stains and loosen the dirt. Hose the salt and mud off the wheel wells and undercarriage.

Clean the wheels first to keep all the slop from getting on the bodywork. Rinse the wheels down, but wax them with the rest of the paint. Now you can wash the car all over with a lambswool wash mitt, drying it with chamois, terry­cloth or microfiber towels. Save the diapers—they’re too abrasive.

The gold standard in wax used to be hard-to-apply paste carnauba wax. You know: Wax on, wax off. Modern chemistry has reduced wax to nano-size particles, added synthetics and generally made wax easy to apply and remove. We also like quick detailers for everyday use. Follow up a quick wash and dry with a light spray of detailer and wipe down with a micro­fiber towel for months of protection from the environment. Final step: Clean up any water spots on the windows inside and out.

Neglected paint can haze out and collect surface contaminants that chemical-cleaner waxes can’t improve. Try a clay bar, an old detailer’s trick. Start with a thorough wash to remove abrasive dirt. Then spray the clay kit’s lubricant over a few square feet of panel. Knead the clay bar to soften it, and run it over the surface in straight lines. Flip the bar over and rub at right angles. Keep the surface wet. It should take a good hour to clay a typical car. Follow up with a wash and wax.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Red

I will add to what was said earlier.

Get a good car shampoo, something like Megs gold class/or the NXT, a couple of buckets, and a wash mitt, preferably lambs wool one. Why two buckets - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=103943

This is what started it all off for me, just by watching that video. I have just progressed from there on.

Dry the car using a waffle weave drying towel (megs water magnet for example) Best to dab rather than wipe when drying.

Then use Megs quick clay and detailer spray. I brake the clay bar up into thirds, that way if I drop a bit I can throw it in the bin and get another piece.
Do a panel, half a door, 3rd of a bonnet etc at a time. Once you have done a section, wipe the residue away with a clean Microfibre cloth.

Re wash then you know you are starting from a clean base. Polish, something like Auto Glym Super Resin Polish applied using a Megs MF (Microfibre) applicator pad. Then wax, get a good wax, apparently the new Auto Glym HD wax is really good, but a pig to remove once it has cured. I have been told that it gets easier the more times you use it. Get this from ebay, not halfords.

A little guide of products you could buy.

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Mate absolutely superb advice and a great video thanks for that. May start spending to get the stuff I need. :B_blite:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 850se

Cars get dirty. But there’s more than just dirt and rain spots clinging to your car’s exterior. Airborne industrial pollutants, acid rain, dead bugs, tree sap and bird droppings can all degrade the paint. Modern car ­finishes are all covered with a clear coat to protect the pigmented main layer, but even this UV-resistant outer layer will last longer if you maintain it. Keep things clean and waxed to repel water and pollutants.

The same goes for your car’s interior. That slimy patina of French fries, Big Gulp, sweat and dirt will eventu­ally turn your interior into a primordial swamp. Shampoo the cloth seats to remove all that gunk. Now, forget what you think you know. There’s nothing under your kitchen sink that’s appropriate for washing or cleaning your car, except maybe the glass cleaner. Leave the dish detergent for the dishes, and use a proper car-washing solution. Clean the window glass last to catch all the oversprayed cleaning products.

Leather seats deserve a proper leather cleaner, followed by leather conditioner to replenish the skin’s natural oils. Save the protectant for the dashboard. I strongly recommend against using protectant on the steering wheel and rubber pedals, because it can reduce your grip to dangerous levels.

Park in the shade while washing and waxing to prevent the heat of the sun from drying off the car and making water spots before you can dry them. Wet the surface beforehand to help dissolve the bug stains and loosen the dirt. Hose the salt and mud off the wheel wells and undercarriage.

Clean the wheels first to keep all the slop from getting on the bodywork. Rinse the wheels down, but wax them with the rest of the paint. Now you can wash the car all over with a lambswool wash mitt, drying it with chamois, terry­cloth or microfiber towels. Save the diapers—they’re too abrasive.

The gold standard in wax used to be hard-to-apply paste carnauba wax. You know: Wax on, wax off. Modern chemistry has reduced wax to nano-size particles, added synthetics and generally made wax easy to apply and remove. We also like quick detailers for everyday use. Follow up a quick wash and dry with a light spray of detailer and wipe down with a micro­fiber towel for months of protection from the environment. Final step: Clean up any water spots on the windows inside and out.

Neglected paint can haze out and collect surface contaminants that chemical-cleaner waxes can’t improve. Try a clay bar, an old detailer’s trick. Start with a thorough wash to remove abrasive dirt. Then spray the clay kit’s lubricant over a few square feet of panel. Knead the clay bar to soften it, and run it over the surface in straight lines. Flip the bar over and rub at right angles. Keep the surface wet. It should take a good hour to clay a typical car. Follow up with a wash and wax.

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Mate some excellent advice, thanks. Between all you's guys Flo will be looking sweet again.

I have a guide on my site. You need not use all the steps but it will help

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/galler...y_2006_CYC.htm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by volvoturboman

Mate absolutely superb advice and a great video thanks for that. May start spending to get the stuff I need. :B_blite:

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No problem at all. Any more advice/tips just shout.