5 Attachment(s)
Recondition Volvo 850 Engine Oil cooler lines
These lines often fail after a while... rather then spend £140+ on replacements, you can recondition your existing lines relatively cheaply. The same will apply to transmission cooler lines. Job should take 3-4 hours.
Tools you'll need:
Spanner set with some extenders bars
Torx30 bit
Metalwork vice and bench
A multifunction cutting tool or "Dremel" to cut off the crimps (see below)
Hot air gun (to relax the hose)
Stuff to buy:
T-BOLT STAINLESS STEEL HOSE CLAMP CLIP 17-19 OD (FITS 11mm Internal Diameter (ID) HOSE) - x 4
AN -8 AN8 7/16" 11MM Black NYLON Braided RUBBER Fuel Oil Hose - 1 Metre
Clarke CMFT250 Multi Function Tool --- treat yourself... this will be more than paid for by the money you'll save ;-)
Large cable ties
Optionally you may wish renew seals as required (See diagram below.) You need to get these from Volvo.
Diagram
Attachment 24941
Taking off the oil cooler lines
The lines connect to the radatior cooler held in by metal c clips (no. 8 in diagram). You can remove these fairly easily with a pair if pliers and a large screwdriver. Be careful not to open the clips too wide as you'll need to re-use them.
The other end of the lines push into the oil thermstat (near the crackshaft pulley). You'll need to jack car up and remove the o/s wheel. A pastic nut can be removed on the wheel arch trim to enable it to be folded up and held with some mole grips... to reveal the crank shaft pulley.
You should also remove the oil filter and the front plastic engine air dam (two 10mm bolts) on each side. You don't need to drain the sump.
The hardest part of the job is actually removing the metal plate (11 in diagram) which holds the lines in place on the thermostat housing. The trick is to use an extention bar which is long enough to reach, but not too long as to foul on the A/C canister. Having a longish (2in) Torx30 bit will also help. If you fiddle around you'll find you'll be able to guide your torx bit into the bolt with your fingers. It's tight but it works! Once you have undone the bolt, remove the plate and lines can be pulled out of the thermostat housing.
There is another tricky bolt to get at which clamps the lines at the front of the block (13 on diagram). Again an extension bar is your friend (and some patience).
Once undone, the lines can be completely removed from the car from underneath. Be mindful that you will encounter some oil from the undone lines, so make sure you've got some rags handy.
Reconditioning
So now comes the interesting part - the rebuilding of the lines....
You will need to cut off the crimps from the lines using your multi function tool! I don't think this would be possible with a hack saw. So cut a line, carefully, as per the picture below... and prise open the crimp with pliers / screwdrivers etc.
Attachment 24944
Eventually it will come off and you can pull the old hose off the barb.
Attachment 24945
You be left with something like the above.
Do the same for the remaining crimp on the other end.
Take you new hose and cut a length equal (maybe a bit longer) to the length of hose you have removed.
If you are using 11mm ID hose you will struggle to get it over the barbs. This is where the hot air gun comes in. Gently heat the end of the new hose, and use some grease. It should go on much more easily problems. Don't forget to put your hose clips on before doing the second one!
Attachment 24946
Make sure you do up the clips good and tight. It would be most undesireable for any of these to come off! Also make sure you check the angle (shape) of the hose before you tighten so it fits on the car.
Don't be tempted to use grub screw jubilee clips.... fork out a few pound and get some decent t-bolt clips (as per the shopping list).
Attachment 24947
So above is one I made earlier. (Note the meaty T bar clips). Do the same for the other line, and fit them back in the engine. See the diagram to remind you which line goes in which hole in the thermostat (top rad line goes in hole nearest engine) Refit the clamp on the thermostat. Use two cable ties per hose around the radiator c clips to hold them in position.
Don't forget to refit the oil filter before starting her up (I did, and now my driveway is darker than it used to be!) :doh:
Start up, warm up and check for leaks before jacking down.
