Anyone ? My P2 has 101k miles on it and as I will soon to be doing the arb's and drop links would it be worth replacing the dampers as they are 10 years old. The lumping and bumping is getting on my tits
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Anyone ? My P2 has 101k miles on it and as I will soon to be doing the arb's and drop links would it be worth replacing the dampers as they are 10 years old. The lumping and bumping is getting on my tits
I changed my 50,000 mile dampers for Bilsteins, and they felt pretty shot compared to the new ones (I do drive on crap Glasgow roads and bumpy Scottish B roads to be fair)
You won't recognize the way it drives with a nice set of new ones, you may as well get upgrades as well if you're gonna shell out for a swap?
Thanks monkey...how much were the Bilsteins compared with oe ones and where did you buy from ?
Don't know how much you'd pay for new stock ones - My Bilsteins were about £500 all in for a brand new set. The damping was at least 3 or 4 times more on the new ones judging from compressing both manually, a massive difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by SKIDMARKS
I did a lot of research and Bilsteins seem to come out on top as the best brand of OEM replacement.
I think I got mine from Larkspeed who were fairly friendly and professional when I dealt with them.
I take it yours isn't an R with 4C?Quote:
Originally Posted by SKIDMARKS
I have the same dillema with my R having done 115k on the shocks. None of them leak but a shock is a shock and they still wear. I believe Monroe can get oe 4C shocks now for around £175 each. Not bad, considering the stealer want £400+ each!!
If your car isn't an R then i agree that Bilsteins are the best and yes you will notice a massive difference.
It's the old saying... they don't last quite as they used to... speed bumps/pot holes.
But then again it was usually other things that broke first on older cars..
If the labels are still on your 4C dampers you will find that they were Monroe from the factory. They're the only people who do them.
If your car is a family motor then your passengers won't thank you is you fit FSDs or Bistein B6 dampers.
Actually, 4C shocks were a joint venture between Monroe and Sachs but that's by the by. I wouldn't dream of fitting Bilstein B6 or FSDs. V70s are not racing cars unless completely stripped and racing in the BTCC. Besides, i could not justify the expense and the constant problems and SUM faults (R cars only) that these normally bring. I would always have oe unless it was for a non R.Quote:
Originally Posted by v70torslanda
I fitted Bilstein B8's to mine and the ride was actually vastly improved!
They're not as harsh as you might think - got a great, pliant well damped feel to it now.
...to your S40 or to a V70? Not being funny but you can't compare your S40 to a V70, especially an R.If you fitted B8's to a V70R then i would be interested on total cost and ride quality and effects on 4C setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by t5_monkey
Thanks for the replies, it's just a bog standard T5 estate work car. Just looking for a nice comfy ride. I can get the opposite with my other ride !
Mines an S40 T5 SE Sport - the one in the Sig pic, I know it's not a V70, however there is a consensus that sports dampers make the ride worse, however that's far from my experience so thought I'd add that in :) Don't know if it would affect an 'R' in the same way or not!Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeT5
Hi there
I bought a '54 reg with 4C option last year. Always thought the suspension was iffy but it's getting worse. It's now done 126,000 miles. Symproms are:
- Hit a deep pothole at 30-40 and there's a bone-crunching thump like the suspension may have bottomed
Hit a shallow pothole or manhole cover and the back end seems to hop out to the right, unsettling the car and giving a serious wobble
The difference between sport and comfort seems minimal
I'm guessing my shocks all need replacing by now but I'm hearing about software upgrades, Volvo known problems, rear toe-in settings have to be 0 degrees and worn bushes and bearings all contributing to the problem.
Anyone know for sure? Maybe recommend somewhere to fix it where the people also know for sure?
Cheers
Vitch
Hi Vitch, sounds like what mine was doing before I changed the dampers - I would think by 126,000 miles yours will be well worn!
You'd probably be as well to renew all your bushes too? bet it will drive like a new car if you do that.
Go through the suspension with a critical eye. Check all the bushes before you bin the shocks. Don't dick about with the wrong shocks, it's a waste of money.
likewise don't go throwing money at the dealer for '4-wheel alignment' (yeah, whatever) when you're running around on 4 bald tyres all with uneven wear and a different make on each corner.
Half the 'bump/thump' (or, more realistically 'bang/crash!') is likely to be the interior fittings. The dash and rear load area furniture in mine creak and groan like man'o'war in a force 9! Removing each fastener in turn and retightening along with a liberal use of foam strip and/or butyl tape is gradually bringing the interior up to VW quality ...
On the 28th mine is getting all dampers ( from Barnsley-Bill ) eg Koni's, mounts, springs, Volvo ARB rear, Meyle drop links and track rod ends, exhaust and next day going on to get 4 wheel aligned....as I too pick my fillings off the floor after a pothole or even thicker paint on the lines on the road these days. After that a set of Conti 3's on refurbed rims !!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitch
Will post on here the difference...I'm hoping for a lot.
Bilstein dampers are super awesome by the way - got B8's on mine :) adjustability is a bit of a gimmick
Thanks for the advice guys.
Think I'll get Hamish at HLM to check it out for me before I need a new spine.
Cheers
Vitch
Fact, with 126k on the clock your shocks will be well past their sell by date, as will the suspension bushes etc. To keep things even, always replace in pairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitch
I would renew your shocks, bushes (all of them), top hats then make sure the car has had the latest SUM update - this alone will make a huge difference (did on mine).
then have tyres checked/replaced/balanced etc and she should drive pretty much 95% close to what it was like when first manufactured.
Good luck and please let us know of the results. I am halfway there myself, just got the expensive bits to replace now.