S60R / japanifold Exhaust manifold upgrade

Just planning to lift the engine out of the 850 t5 (Lusty). Had a lightbulb idea of swapping the exhaust manifold for the Japan made one, or the S60R.

I thought they were a feasible swap, the partnumbers I have are 30637921/30837921 for the S60R and 9207688 for the "Japanifold" , so I had a look on the interweb of confusion for a few details.
Unfortunately I cannot do a direct comparison yet, as I have yet to spend any cash...but looking at pictures of the standard t5 manifold vs either of the above, some of the bolt holes / mounting brackets appear to be in slightly different places. (esp around cyl #5 port)

Anyone done this who could confirm or deny whether there is a fitment issue, and maybe advise of different part numbers if necessary?

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers
Woz

They are all interchangeable, I swapped a standard T5 one for a japanifold on my pre ME7 C70 T5.
Attachment 32004

The Japanifold is a nice 'upgrade' (though I don't know how much difference it makes) as it is opened up a lot more and the routing is slightly different and it drops straight in, as does the S60R manifold but these tend to be harder to get and lots more money.

Plus you can pick them up for as little as £30 if you find the right ebay listing. They fitted them to many turbo engines including the S60 2.0 (which is where mine came from). As long as you can see the 9207688 on the top branch.

Cheers Stribo, cheers Dave, this gives me the confidence to spend some pocket money.
The S60R ones I was looking at the pictures of, had equal length runners and the bracket hole above #5 port (LH end in pics) was actually to one side of it. Maybe that was a post mE7 S60R?? Who cares, your help has sorted me out. Cheers guys - love this forum!!

Used both on Olive so far, but can't really tell which is best back to back, as other mods were done at the same time that I swapped manifolds. On both of mine I opened up the turbo port a lot more and on the next upgrade the exhaust ports will also be tickled. I'm currently running a S60R manifold, but that was because I was lucky enough to come buy it for the same money as a Japanifold, but bang for buck the Jap one is best value for money and I do believe has been tested to out flow the S60R one, but I have not seen a write up on it yet, as different setups could give different results.

Thanks guys. I picked up a japan manifold from an xc70 off ebay. Will post pics as i go.

Next sily question, when i have lifted the engine and g/b wil i be able to move the thing or will i have removed bits to make it un rollable, if thats even a word? I dont have much space and may need to plan my starting place carefully ro move the crane out. If i can roll the car back its gonna make life easier. cheers woz.
My aim is not to outflow a s60 one, just outflow a standard one. A bit of subtle porting and matching will go on. It would be rude mot to!

You'll have to take the steering arm and bottom arm of the hub carrier to remove the driveshafts, as long as you reattach the hub carrier with the driveshafts out, it will roll fine. Assuming the handbrake's not seized. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stribo

You'll have to take the steering arm and bottom arm of the hub carrier to remove the driveshafts, as long as you reattach the hub carrier with the driveshafts out, it will roll fine. Assuming the handbrake's not seized. ;)

---

So I disconnect the steering arm and bottom arm (TCA) from the hub carrier in order to release the innner ends of the drive shafts, then once i have lifted the lump, I can reconnect them, bolted up loosely, with driveshafts still in place and the inner ends supported by a bit of wire or bungee, so the thing can roll? Thats sounds like what I have done on previous FWD cars, but never had to disconnect the hub carrier, presmably that's to release the splines from the g/b?

Thanks for this.

WOZ

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by woz

Thanks guys. I picked up a japan manifold from an xc70 off ebay. Will post pics as i go.

Next sily question, when i have lifted the engine and g/b wil i be able to move the thing or will i have removed bits to make it un rollable, if thats even a word? I dont have much space and may need to plan my starting place carefully ro move the crane out. If i can roll the car back its gonna make life easier. cheers woz.
My aim is not to outflow a s60 one, just outflow a standard one. A bit of subtle porting and matching will go on. It would be rude mot to!

---

You'll find the japan one is far less resistrictive than a standard 850 one and the Japan one is also more open at the turbo port than a s60r item, as I had to open my one up quite a bit

japan std
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4597/...5e48bac6_k.jpgimg_20160415_173541_572_26172822360_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
S60r std
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/...aa56a537_k.jpg25288686480_3432a17ca3_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
My modded Japan
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/...752d69b6_z.jpgDSC_0031_zps424e2835 by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
My modded S60r (currently fitted to Olive)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/...e73628b1_k.jpgimg_20160324_095833_586_25931770341_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
Your could even give the turbo port a tickle whilst it's all in bits, this is the S60r manifold with a 3" angled flange turbine housing which is currently mated to a lowly 15g and pulled 13.4 on the strip and 13.6-8 repeatedly
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/...8bdd8bf2_k.jpgimg_20160324_095824_432_25931736961_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by woz

So I disconnect the steering arm and bottom arm (TCA) from the hub carrier in order to release the innner ends of the drive shafts, then once i have lifted the lump, I can reconnect them, bolted up loosely, with driveshafts still in place and the inner ends supported by a bit of wire or bungee, so the thing can roll? Thats sounds like what I have done on previous FWD cars, but never had to disconnect the hub carrier, presmably that's to release the splines from the g/b?

Thanks for this.

WOZ

---

Yep, you've got it. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MoleT-5R

You'll find the japan one is far less resistrictive than a standard 850 one and the Japan one is also more open at the turbo port than a s60r item, as I had to open my one up quite a bit

japan std
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4597/...5e48bac6_k.jpgimg_20160415_173541_572_26172822360_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
S60r std
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/...aa56a537_k.jpg25288686480_3432a17ca3_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
My modded Japan
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/...752d69b6_z.jpgDSC_0031_zps424e2835 by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
My modded S60r (currently fitted to Olive)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/...e73628b1_k.jpgimg_20160324_095833_586_25931770341_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr
Your could even give the turbo port a tickle whilst it's all in bits, this is the S60r manifold with a 3" angled flange turbine housing which is currently mated to a lowly 15g and pulled 13.4 on the strip and 13.6-8 repeatedly
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/...8bdd8bf2_k.jpgimg_20160324_095824_432_25931736961_o by Adrian Ringrose, on Flickr

---

If you spent as much on cameras, as you do on manifolds, you might get some decent pictures. :hilarious

p.s if i spent as much money on cameras as i do on Volvo bits, I would not have a manifold. Or any other Volvo bits <LOL>

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stribo

If you spent as much on cameras, as you do on manifolds, you might get some decent pictures. :hilarious

---

Ha Ha......the 3rd pic was taken with a proper camera, the rest are phone pic's and not very good ones but show enough to explain what I meant. I think the lens needed a good clean, it gets covered in a fair amount of gunk in my work.

They were perfectly fit for purpose. "If its near enough, its good enough, if its good enough, it's perfect!"