thanks guys, what sort of things should i be checking for the air leak, as in inlet manifold etc? i will see if i can post the boost read out.
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thanks guys, what sort of things should i be checking for the air leak, as in inlet manifold etc? i will see if i can post the boost read out.
i assume as this could be internal it is not a good thing. i have just had this engine re-built, dont know if i could face going through all that again.Attachment 29505
Never assume anything!
You'll need a Mityvac to check for internal leaks. Best thing to do is replace all the one way valves on the vac lines. These often leak and are often overlooked. They will cause MAF codes and erratic throttle and idle behaviour with intermittent fault codes.
Also check your boost gauge is not leaking and associated pipework!!
This will cause the same symptoms especially if it's a split plastic tube that opens up at 10psi etc.
This is the bit that is confusing me the car idles perfectly and drives perfect, i just get very little boost. I have checked all the piping I can see, maybe time to get it in the garage and just strip the whole thing down. it so annoying being in Scotland as there is no one up here at all to go to for assistance with this. I will probably have an emotional cry of joy when I get to the bottom of this....lol :)
Ok, I can finally post about my rica stage 2 re-map. My car has elevate air management system with bonnet vent. uprated intake and down pipe courtesy of Graeme welch. iPad oval cat back exhaust, stainless over engine pipe and uprated intercooler piping. Forge cbv and actuator. Just saying that after my boost issues have been sorted (no comment) :confused: this re-map seems super good, the throttle is a lot more responsive and it holds 22psi boost steady. I will be putting the car on a rolling road soon to see the numbers and get back to you soon with figures. But after 2 engine re-builds and an angle gear re-build I am finally a happy man, in the whole time I have had this car I have been close to giving up a few times but alas I am happy I have stuck it out and I feel it's been totally worth it. Thanks to everyone that has offered advice and help through this journey it's been really really appreciated. :B_thumb:
Apple are making exhausts now?
No but the cars sounds like it's going to be a real peach. :saythat:Quote:
Originally Posted by M-R-P
Ha ha ha, got me there. Better get on to editing then.Quote:
Originally Posted by M-R-P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigtange
What was the boost fix matey?
See thread #45. I think it was something to do with the TCV lines being fitted the wrong way!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dream3r
yes i am a fool, the lines running to the TCV where on the wrong way round.
lol haha that pico graph is interesting....is the bottom axis time? What sensor BPS 5v = fault to ground/3 BAR absolute on the R LOL
Since I'm not tuning anymore or a trader I can offer advice here based on my experience of tuning a few fast Volvo's.
Datalogs/Dyno's required, and I don't want to know the tuner, lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigtange
What caused two engine rebuilds mate? I'd be wary mapping it until that is resolved, I had a look through your posts but couldn't see.
Very decent of you, although you'd have to translate into English for me lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Dream3r
I can answer ME7 tuning questions? Volvo ME7Quote:
Originally Posted by Ettienne
split piston liners both times, the first time was the learnig curve with the original engine, then i got a replacement bottom end and the guy re-building it didnt notice the liner was already split. :( so finally got another bottom end and had it shimmed and it has been fine ever since. i love learning the hard way it seems and have a good deal of bad luck.
i also dont have a clue what the graph is, he just gave it to me with the invoice and didnt explain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dream3r
Two blocks, same map nearly always is the map man. Peak Toque figures there nice in a dyno but not on the 2.5L
What does it boost to @ 3k?
Edit just read 22 psi toooo much on stock block! Also the AMS will lean out your fuel trims a bit so what them, maf will compensate tough but then you'll get a maf code, really the AMS needs to whole post and pre maf correction redone. I did one once and i felt quite a bit better on/off throttle.
Looks like it was some sort of log of the BPS, hopefully on the bench.Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigtange