Any chance of gettng some logging S/W?
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Been a bit of a while since I last did or said anything on the silver dream machine. I rotated the wheels and pumped them up. I managed to find a couple of hours in the festive hols to have at least 1 look. Drained the oil out ready for the engine drop. The grey cappuccino that came out confirmed that more than likely have a cracked head. I am a little peeved that it wasn't checked properly but I guess there is no point dwelling on it.
On the bright side I have acquired a 2nd hand BBK and I still have the coilovers bought xmas 2014.
I managed to grab a pint with an engineering pal - he was on the team that developed the 5 litre V8 in most modern jags.
Assuming the bottom end is still sound - I have a spare head, so I think I will push on and redevelop it. port and polish the spare. I don't think the crack one will be repairable.
I plan to drop the turbo pressure back down to 1.5 to 1.6 bar, reduce the cylinder pressure, but to keep up the power, increase the rev limit. I need to reduce the rotational inertia. I plan to swap the DMF and have the clutch friction plate redeveloped to include springs
I am wondering if I need to have stiffer valve springs if I raise the limiter towards 8500 rpm?
More than anything I want a bit more stability, as time to fix things is low.
I also need some recommendations as to where to take this machine once it is back together.
Nice to hear you're forging ahead with it Dave :)
Look forward to future updates.
You need to keep it below 1.6 bar as it's past ME7 limits. 1.5 like you said but the boost pid will need work.
Scale your maf properly and up the load correctly in all maps, you can log timing and AFR with VIDA.
It's not just boost that has a affect on cylinder pressure either, you were running a big maf with no corrections, so would have been requesting 30 degrees timing instead of say 20, that would increase cylinder pressures a bit. AFR too.... it all adds up to heat.
Also think about CR
It's a good tuning job, get the maf, fueling and idle correct, then POWER :) the turbo will be later spooling rpm wise so use the lambda driver request map to dump a bit of preemptive fuel in there or you'll run lean.
I didn't see the post about logging software I don't sell it anymore :)
I was running the T-5K when it was on the road at 8500rpm limit for over a year without any problems, it seemed to have a second wind over 7000rpm.
So you think the OEM valve springs will cope with the higher redline?
I'd have done it back in the day but it's not a basic remap, if it takes less than 2-3 lazy days it won't be done right. Really it needs done in stages than all at one, maf, injectors, power like I said before. It needs datalogged and an EGT gauge if not already so the calibrator can correctly set the exhaust temp maps.
I don't know why you didn't take my advice about the maf and injectors last year either so am a bit hesitant to say more buddy.
What turbo is on it again and injectors? I remember u saying it didn't idle very well that's fixable.
I'm turning my PM's back on if theirs anything you wish to as in private. It would be good to see it fly reliably. With my 2.4 map and ported head we were seeing around 350 bhp and was running out of fuel on the VXR's at 5 BAR fuel pressure absolute.
Last year (2015) nothing much occurred. There was a mechanical failure of the stretch head bolts (the whole cylinder head lifted) in Oct 2014 at the drag strip (Avon Park). Car was recovered and I asked HLM to take the head off and refit with ARP bolts
CH was not properly checked (don't ask:cussing:) so when the engine was reassembled - it appears to be consuming vast amounts of water - although the sniffer test was negative. I believe that the CH is cracked. I don't have 100% proof but the grey frappacino oil that came out last week would seem to imply that's where the water is going. I subsequently saw on a Swedish T5 build - they used stretch bolts which were double tightened (slackened off after the 1st tightening) on a 600 bhp build.
I am basically sort of back to the drawing board. I thought it would be good to draw a line under that one and re-use if possible the bottom end and build it up again.
Bottom line is Hamish doesn't want anymore of it - so I seek a like minded engine builder perhaps tim?? Shemtek? I don't really know.
I am still keen enough to not throw in the towel, though I find myself increasingly time limited.
The full spec is available in the garage. The spec is as follows
Turbo Garrett GTX3071R - Spec...
Compressor wheel - 11 blade
Inducer – 54.10mm
Exducer – 71.40mm
Trim – 58
Turbine Wheel
Trim – 84
Compressor A/R – 0.60.
TIAL QR BOV (recirc) - DIY RIP kit (57mm).
ASNU 630cc (@ 3 BAR) Injectors - OEM 3.8 bar FPR
Deatchwerks DW300 (300 lph) in tank fuel pump.
K1 Tech forged 139.5 mm con rods.
Wiseco forged 81.5mm pistons
Donor engine came from a 2001 S60 overhauled & bored out to match pistons.
Nissens 3" core FMIC (57mm O/D connections)
Custom 3" DP (Chris Tullett) with 200 cell cat.
4" MAF
Good to see you've not given up on it Dave. :)
Contact Shem he might take it on as a project car, he's got a couple on the go already and is gaining quit a rep in the EU for Engine building.
The injectors seem small
AFR looked fine but 1.7bar is quite high.
sadly I don't know what the ignition timing was.
You can see it leaning out a bit on spool, that's fixable as well.
It's definitely under-scaled (via larger maf) as it would have dumped fuel at the top end there based on the load and Volvo's general EGT strategies for component protection.
I hope it works out and you get your engine builder etc :)
Here's an early dev map log with the lean out fixed as I has the same issue (quicker spooling turbo when it starts lol), work still needed though at this stage. It was actually the inlet manifold or gasket as when I changed that out it ran a lot better (pressure sensor agreed with inlet manifold pressure map again). I wouldn't like more knock really but 5 is acceptable imo.
Food for thought, you can see the component protection dumping fuel (fixable as well, I limited it to 0.75 for this run).
Obviously your hardware is going to produce different results, but this was around 400bhp dev run, so similar in some respects, it also shows you what can be done with the correct tools, ME7 needs logged to tune, as you can probably see the injectors wasn't right when 0.75 was commanded (again fixed afterwards)
Edit, this was the 5 bar software i made so not limited.
Attachment 30115
Sorry struggling to understand the graph - which legend refers to which Y axis. Can you also confirm my aging recollection that lambda 1 is a AFR of 14.7:1 right?
Is the avg knock retard the angle before TDC?
Open the image in a new tab with a right click then you should see.
Lambda 1 is 14.7:1 AFR, yes sorry I never use AFR just lambda as that what the car uses.
retard is what the ecu is pulling from the various timing maps and is seen in the timing graph as it's already been taken in-to account. It's an average over 5 cylinders I have per cylinder counts too and about 60 other variables.
So blue = desired boost
red = actual
yellow = retard
purple = actual lambda
green = component protection lambda variable
You can see the fuel dive too far when it's activated, injectors are not linear so I adjusted for that later in another revision.
Which RPM range do you see that? part of the point of the post was to show how important logging is, clearly the injectors needed work at this point as it goes over rich when component protection kicks in, but you don't know without a tool like this. It's richer than Dave's though ;) this is where I found the best torque around 0.8 ish lambda
In between 3800 and 3900 fella, purple line spikes across the 0.85 mark
Attachment 30116
I don't know much about it tbh but would expect 11's at high boost as you say
Purples bts ram cell iirc mate not actual
Managed to get a few hours to begin the head removal. I probably have to drop the whole thing in the end, otherwise how am I to get the bottom end checked and get rid of the grey junk in the pan?
I've cleared the top & 2 sides of the engine (I wasnt rushing it). If the weather is clear again tonight - I will crack on with the cam belt and the exhaust manifold.
I confess I really enjoyed just pottering, doing it my way.
Good to hear, I've just changed the engine and bits on mine and I have liked not having to rush and miss/beeak things, hopefully it will all work out well.
I'm looking forward to seeing the ssb up and running again dave and if you can just hit that sweet spot for performance and a decent ammount of reliability that car should fly.
Is this eairly version of the me7 a total pain to tune I know people run large turbo on 4.3 amd 4.4 and don't seem to have much issues with tuning but when it gets into your car's era Ive never came across much.
No in fact it's simpler to tune less maps etc.
Those XDF's are simple map packs but seen to-do the job for you guys.
8000 maps in med9.1 or so iirc 4000 in me9 I had to modify over 100 maps iirc for my 5 bar file with code changes to boot. It just gets more complex per generation. MED17 is well difficult.
You're using a mastersystem (8 bit) new cars have an xbox one ecu to put it into perspective
ME7 is limited to controlling 2500 mBar of boost I modified it over 7 months to allow it to support 5 bar as a personal challenge.
It's the only one in existence for 2005 Volvo, their is one for 2004 and we collaborated a bit and found one issue in his file and he was happy with mine. It's the ECU that runs the 800BHP German one, so potential for a mega build was there, but decided B8 S4 was better lol. It was fun though, if you like reading binary and hex and assembly.
Obliterated my power target as well so job done move on.
I've managed to get the cams off and exposed more of the grey cappuccino water/oil mix underneath. Not great. Attachment 30177
The progress continued and the head is now off. There is a split in the liner in cylinder 2. The piston crown is quite clearly washed out and a palpable crack is apparent.
Attachment 30179
Attachment 30178
I am going to clean up the head and get rid of the gunk - and get it tested.
As for the block - I have read about Colin's repair but I am still a bit dubious about reassembling on a clearly dodgy cylinder. So I can get another block and have it engineered for the wiseco oversized pistons (would new piston rings be needed?) - or go the more expensive route and buy a set of darton liners?
I am uncertain that the oily watery mess is caused by a split liner? So it may well be that both the head is cracked too. I am trying to remain positive.
Looking at the cylinder 3 pic in this previous post http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post755065 it is possible that the pot was already cracked at the top.
That's not good news mate :(
So it looks like either the Darton route or new block (and get it shimmed properly this time). Which would be best?
I think the shimming was fine, I just think the split was already there :( , it looks a lot worse than my split liner so I think you need another block :(
I did see some talk about closing the deck, iirc Shem was able to do that but it did cost a bit.
is the block split on more than one cylinder dave ??
p.s only joking about jubilee clips
Wow, how much boost were you running to split a liner on a 2.3 block? How about a shimmed 2.4 block for the next build?