These will fit perfectly and I believe are slightly stronger. :smile:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-STABILU...QAAOSwQTVWAQ01
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These will fit perfectly and I believe are slightly stronger. :smile:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-STABILU...QAAOSwQTVWAQ01
IMpressed that you managed to do all your trim with the heatgun in 15 mins!
I experimented with it the other day. Thought the result was merely 'OK'. I don't think I would have done the whole car in 15 mins though as I was having to wave it around small areas for a while to get an even result. I ended up just cracking on with the original plan and applied Autobrite Back2black - it's a bloody time consuming faff (as are all those type of products) but I felt it was a nicer finish than the heatgun. I'm sure it will fade in time just like Plasticare and C4 has, but if I get 12 months I'm happy.
Once you get a good rythm going, it doesn't take long to finish all the trim. I didn't faff about, just got on with it. I didn't need to do the front bumper (like I said) but I guess it depends on how faded your trim is?
One thing I will say is, if you're heat gun has two speed settings or temp settings, like mine does, don't use the higher heat setting! Just go a little slower with the lower heat to get a better result.
I'm going to try it on the roof rails as I recently replaced the plastic trims and now the metal bar sections look more grey. If it doesn't work, then I'm going to remove them and have them powder coated :)
I'm going to plastidip my rails and the covers. I painted the rails last summer with some old leftover metallic dark grey/charcoal, and used black Plasticare trim dye on the plastic bits but of course the shades aren't the same. I need to get some plastidip for a few bits anyway so will do the rails and covers again.
So my clutch has started slipping at peak torque and this made me notice that the pedal travel was a lot higher than it should be. Not good! So the stock LuK clutch and DMF lasted about 30k without tracking the car (that's 5 years with my mileage).
So I decided that I didn't just wanna stick another stock clutch in without doing some research into my options....
After extensive research and speaking to various people I've decided that I'm going to fit a stock V70R clutch (Volvo are doing some incredible deals at the moment and are deliberately undercutting all other part suppliers).
I also decided that I would remove the current serviceable DMF and replace it with a more durable SMF from Don at Kalmar Union.
When installed, the driveshaft output seals and rear main will be also replaced as a precaution. The rear main is not leaking but the car has 154k. One of the DS output seals is weeping as this was picked up on the last MOT.
Obviously a new genuine Consentric slave cylinder will be fitted too as will 6 new pressure plate bolts and 10 new flywheel bolts. I'll be using Brembo 5.1 fluid for the clutch.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psftx8g8p7.jpg
Lightened steel single mass flywheel
(From Kalmar Union website)....
Suitable for : S60/S80/XC70/V70 P2 - S40/V50/C30/C70
This one piece, lightened flywheel is CNC machined from forged, pre hardened chrome molly steel billet and balanced individually in a final process to elimate any possibility of failure in high revving applications. It is designed to replace the standard dual mass component associated with the M66 6 speed gearbox, it does not have a separate ring gear like some US sourced competitive offerings. It weighs just 6.75kg. The standard Volvo dual mass flywheel weighs about 11.35kg., depending on which precise version is fitted in your car's M66 gearbox. The pins are usually supplied as 6mm, however we can supply other locating pins to suit at no extra cost to locate Spec and other aftermarket clutch kits. These very same flywheels were used by the Kpax team in their racing C30s together with our plate type limited slip diffs and by Polestar in their C30AWD cars.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pslcdxh99j.jpg
A big thankyou to Don at Kalmar Union for the SMF and a totally proffessional service + an unbelievably fast postage!! :hail:
Also a huge Thankyou to Ashok at Elk Performance for supplying the genuine clutch kit, CSC, Flywheel bolts and for pointing out the need to replace the pressure plate stretch bolts (something I was not aware of) and the vastly discounted prices :B_thumb:
You guys rock!! :band:
Nice! :B_thumb::B_thumb::B_thumb:
This definitely looks like the thing to do, when mine needs doing.
BOOKMARKED.
Hopefully not for a year or two.
Pictures say it all...
This is the front CV, nearest the Gearbox:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pshzchy72c.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps0wi5m5yq.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps69ymqufe.jpg
Bought this from Volvo:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd2pix7r5.jpg
Propshaft CV repair kit. Apparantly they only list the front, but the rear is the same if you want to replace that too. Mine was ok, so I just regreased it.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pshp2vpvtt.jpg
Great bit if info there. You CANNOT get that repair kit for the Landrovers!
Funnily enough I was supposed to remove & grease the prop on my VR at the weekend, but I ran out of time.
A job for this weekend now!
Thought I'd update you all.
Last week I finally had my clutch/SMF combo installed. What a balls ache it was, well, not for me but for the garage anyway!
The long story - short......
Drove down to Kings Motor Services in Westbury at stupid o'clock in the morning on Monday (with the girlfriend - as we were making a short break of it). Arrived at 0930 and handed over the keys to ma car (nervously) and they handed me the keys to an S60 2.0T...sweet!! Off we went to BATH, to spend the day sightseeing, followed by an overnight at Bannatynes Charlton House Spa Hotel in Shepton Mallet. Loverly!!! :o I'll have a Swedish massage thankyou!
Next day.... Rang garage at 1100 for update...
They'd literaly just got back from a very short road test. Result was the clutch was slipping at very low revs and the clutch pedal felt very odd at the bottom. It was now back on the ramps and the gearbox being removed to inspect/investigate the issue.
(Now I'm stressed and looking forwards to my Swedish massage!)
Eventually, they found the problem. One that I wasn't aware of, neither was Elk Performance or Don at Kalmar Union.
Apparantly, after I rang TTV (whom makes the flywheel) I spoke with Ben, a very helpful chap, who went on to explain the differences between the early 03-04 clutch and the later 05-07 clutch. The early clutch was not compatible with the TTV flywheel. This was because the clutch adjuster had not released due to insufficient clearance.
There's only a few mm in it, but I ended up having to install the later clutch kit form an 05-07 R. SO, despite the fact I had to pay the labour twice :mad: Kings did me a really cheap rate on labour and supplied the clutch kit at cost to help keep the bill down :B_thumb:
It's worth noting that the springs on the later clutch are significantly larger, the pressure plate fingers are stronger and there's no cage on the back of the fingers to prevent the CSC travelling too far.
Works carried out:
Strip out and replace clutch kit, CSC, rear main seal and DMF with later clutch kit and TTV SMF.
Parts:
Sub frame bolts x4
Gearbox seal x1
Rear main seal x1
Volvo clutch kit #VOL31359568 x1
Flywheel bolts x10
Clutch cover bolts x8
Driveshaft retaining bolts x2
Bottom ball joint retaining nuts x2
Driveshaft insulator x2
Driveshaft seal x2
Brembo Dot 5.1 clutch/brake fluid 500ml.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pst9mgezu0.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psif1i84ra.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psuftyv8ly.jpg
Summary
Gone is the surging under mild acceleration. Gone is the slipping at peak torque. Gone is the judder when taking up drive and best of all....gone is the backlash in the driveline which resulted in a dull 'clonk' when taking up drive and getting the biting point.
Now the pedal is lovely and light with a subtle bit of give at the bottom as the CSC overcomes the clutch pressure plate force.
Biting point is perfect, just up from the bottom of the pedal travel.
I can now pull away smoothly and progressively and application of the throttle is much more responsive due to the lightened mass of the flywheel! Acceleration is much more brutal than before too!
The trade off with having a SMF is often gearbox chatter and a subtle rattle on idle. I'm very pleased to say that I have no chatter on idle at all! This is a result of using a thicker gear oil...Redline 75W140NS. Many thanks to Don and Ashok for their advice on this.
I also had a Gold magnetic plug installed along with new driveshaft seals, new rear main seal, new CSC seal, new driveshaft damper seals (the ones that fit inside the front hub assembly).
Gear changes are smoother, slicker and more positive.
The odd, subtle vibration I had at around 60-70mph has now also gone!
When switching the engine off, it dies much quicker as there's less inertia, and it now starts much quicker on crank.
The result is a resounding success and to say I'm pleased, is an understatement!
A first for Kings Motor Services in Westbury, whom did a cracking job....they even washed my car for me, even though it wasn't that dirty as I'd already washed it the day before. :B_thumb: Cheers guys!!
A big thankyou to Ashok at Elk Performance for supplying me the bits (not inc SMF) and a big thankyou to Don at Kalmar Union for his aftersales care :B_thumb:
.................The drive home was an absolute gem! :eclipsee_
To anyone else thinking about going SMF/stock clutch - I highly recommend it!
I just need to have a four wheel alignment which I'll do next month, when the winters go on.
Right....what's next? :wiggle:
1. 3" downpipe and 200 cell race CAT
2. Replace windscreen -- (in the spring 2017) <<<<<< Will have to amend this to 2018 :smirk:
3. New rear toe rods (OE)
4. IPD DEM alloy cover --(Need to order...still)
5. larger exhaust tips
6. Repair weeping drive shaft inner seal (154k service)** COMPLETE
7. Fit reverse camera to iMiV -- (need to order)
8. IPD anti roll bar kit 25mm/28mm
9. Fit OPIE gold plug to engine sump -- (due 154k service) COMPLETE
10. Fit OPIE gold plug to Gearbox -- (@ 154k service)** COMPLETE
11. Upgrade gearbox oil from 75W90 NS GL-5 to 75W140 NS GL-5 -- (@154k service)** COMPLETE
12. New clutch**COMPLETE
1. 3" downpipe and 200 cell race CAT
2. Replace windscreen -- (in the spring 2018)
3. New rear toe rods (OE)
4. IPD DEM alloy cover --(Need to order...still)
5. larger exhaust tips
6. Fit reverse camera to iMiV -- (need to order)
7. IPD anti roll bar kit 25mm/28mm
Hello sir...
Been dipping in and out of this thread for the past couple of months but just felt the urge to say that the information contained within is excellent and has helped me no end with mine... and has also reduced me to a sobbing wreck in the corner as I mentally add up the potential costs, but in for a penny, in for a pound and all that.
Hoping to have mine off the road for winter and to start tackling a few jobs.
Great work, cheers!
Yeah, I'm another who regularly dips back in and out of this thread either for research or inspiration. Always look forward to the updates. And how nice to have such a thread that still has it's images intact!
What's your thoughts on the future replacement windscreen Lee? I want to do mine as it's so badly scratched I hate driving in winter low sunlight. If I were to do it via insurance - you know, if it just happened to somehow get cracked - it would have to be Autoglass. Any opinions on them?
Yeah mine is heavily scrathed too and a couple of stone chips and I have the same issue in low winter sun, however, wearing polarised Oakleys makes an inormous difference and filters out most of the glare, which is the only reason I've put up with it for so long.
I will be replacing the screen soon and the only thing that putting me off is the fact that it has to be done right the first time! I don't want issues with rain sensing wipers etc.
As many of you are aware, that read this thread, I was having issues with occasional judder at very low speeds (crawling pace). It was intermittent at the best of times, but none the less still rather annoying.
I changed fluid three times (flushing) and replaced the steering reservoir and supply hose with the 05> version at the same time as they are prone to leaking. This did make a subtle difference but didn't cure the issue.
Whilst I was having my clutch replaced, I asked the garage to replace the 'Steering Solenoid' and filter, pictured below....
Attachment 31806
Not to be confused with the steering 'Servotronic Relay' which can cause issues and symptoms of heavy, almost non existend power steering, pictured below....
Attachment 31807
I supplied the steering solenoid and tiny filter that comes with it in a kit whith two screws. The garage didn't charge me any labour to fit it due to the fact it's easy to access with the gearbox off the car!
Remarkably, the solenoid has cured ALL symptoms and the steering is now silky smooth and progressive, even when turning when stationary! No judder or noise, just silky smooth operation.
Hi Lee,
That front splitter you fitted, was it one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S60R...-/222105286896
As sure I read somewhere that a Cupra front spoiler / splitter is not wide enough for a V70 / R bumper and might need 2 of these cut and shut?
Yes it was one of those ones. They are wide enough in my opinion and do not need to be cut n shut. I don’t like the look of the ones which poke out of the sides of the bumper. Each to their own I guess.
Look at thread #510. You can see it on my car on the ramp.
Just to say the photos in the ebay link shows a silver R which has got the wide splitter fitted he cut it in half and fitted 4" bit of plastic in the center ,Blue R is the standard size splitter fitted to it.
The photos are quite misleading if you think they're both the same item.