Severe Rumble when Turning Right

Hi guys,

I've got a servre rumble when turning right, the car vibrates you can feel it a lot in the clutch pedal. I have replaced all the engine mounts except for the hydraulic ones. 2 of the 3 were shot, I have also replaced the wishbone on the left which was almost gone. The problem has got a little bit better but still remains

It gets worse when slowing down from speed, don't think its the wheel bearing as I'm unable to rock the wheels. Ive tried disconnecting the abs, the car got a lot more jerky and revs dropped quicker but the problem remained

I've run out of ideas now, going to refurb the rear brakes at the weekend as the car does slip and knock a little when using my handbrake on sharp hills. Worth a shot

Can anyone advise? thanks in advance

Will,

Might be worth checking your CV joints.

Cheers Stribo, is there any way i can check them before replacing?

Is there anything else it could be?

The wheel bearings on these can be nigh on falling to pieces and the wheel won't 'rock'. But if you jack the car up and spin the wheel with one hand on the coil spring you will feel the vibration if it's buggered.

I'd go with the wheel bearings, a 'rumble' is typical of a wheel bearing on it's way out.

Il give that a go tonight, cheers guys. Its like a grind/rumble, before i changed the engine mounts it effected the steering when turning right. Ive also checked and re-geased the breaks and couldn't find any evidence of metal on metal around the suspension

Do the hydraulic engine mounts go bad, anyone know what sort of mileage?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WillT5

Il give that a go tonight, cheers guys. Its like a grind/rumble, before i changed the engine mounts it effected the steering when turning right. Ive also checked and re-geased the breaks and couldn't find any evidence of metal on metal around the suspension

Do the hydraulic engine mounts go bad, anyone know what sort of mileage?

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I don't think the engine mounts are hydraulic mate, they're fixed. A CV joint will generally 'click click click' when it's worn whereas the wheel bearings tend to rumble which gets worse when you corner.

My advice personally, is don't buy cheap parts if you can help it, especially wheel bearings. I'm not suggesting you were going to buy cheap parts but just in case. I've had the misfortune of seeing the cheaper parts fail prematurely (i.e. strut spring seats and ball joints), so I now fit OE Volvo or uprated parts to the car because they last longer and are better value in the long run (and hence I now replace rubber bushing with PU where possible). Also change both sides of the car because where one part has gone the other is probably not far behind.

If you're doing the work yourself, I'd advice getting new bolts because the wheel bearing bolts are 'stretch bolts' so the thread can strip and they can snap and cause all sorts of issues. New bolts may come with the OE parts anyway but if not then I'd advise getting some.

Ok, I hope that helps and good luck! :D

Hi James,

Thanks very much for this James. I checked the passenger side and felt the spring and got a definite rumble so i have ordered a new wheel bearing (£107, ouch), a meter long breaker bar and a 36mm socket. Il crack on with it next weekend and hopefully no more rumble!

I try not to buy cheap parts (wallet allowing), my mechanic mate did the opposite side with an SNR so i have bought the same for this side

Wish me luck, il report back

Will,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesT5

I don't think the engine mounts are hydraulic mate, they're fixed. A CV joint will generally 'click click click' when it's worn whereas the wheel bearings tend to rumble which gets worse when you corner.

My advice personally, is don't buy cheap parts if you can help it, especially wheel bearings. I'm not suggesting you were going to buy cheap parts but just in case. I've had the misfortune of seeing the cheaper parts fail prematurely (i.e. strut spring seats and ball joints), so I now fit OE Volvo or uprated parts to the car because they last longer and are better value in the long run (and hence I now replace rubber bushing with PU where possible). Also change both sides of the car because where one part has gone the other is probably not far behind.

If you're doing the work yourself, I'd advice getting new bolts because the wheel bearing bolts are 'stretch bolts' so the thread can strip and they can snap and cause all sorts of issues. New bolts may come with the OE parts anyway but if not then I'd advise getting some.

Ok, I hope that helps and good luck! :D

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Ohh, dear, James with his lack of knowledge again, if you don't know the answer, don't pretend that you do.

James I suggest you do your research before making statements!

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vo...l=en-GB&espv=1

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Originally Posted by claymore

Ohh, dear, James with his lack of knowledge again, if you don't know the answer, don't pretend that you do.

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I didn't pretend anything Colin, I said "I don't think" rather that saying I did know. Besides, it's all a bit academic seeing the issue here seems to be the wheel bearings anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesT5

I didn't pretend anything Colin, I said "I don't think" rather that saying I did know. Besides, it's all a bit academic seeing the issue here seems to be the wheel bearings anyway.

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It's obvious to read that the "I don't think" was ment in a sarcastic way or you wouldn't have said "they're fixed"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by claymore

It's obvious to read that the "I don't think" was ment in a sarcastic way or you wouldn't have said "they're fixed"

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No it wasn't sarcastic at all, I was serious. The fact I said they're "fixed" was merely an extension of the opening words... :wallbash:

James i could kiss you! Did the wheel bearing last sat and no more problems

Thanks for the advice guys

Will,