2003 S80 D5 Not starting, any ideas?

Hi all I'm new to the forum but a long time Volvo driver and lover!! I recently bought a non starting 03 S80 D5, I'm wondering has anyone else experienced a non starting S80? I got the car so cheap I simply couldn't refuse it. The story goes, apparently a diagnostics test shows flywheel fault however after purchase i have discovered a little history. The car has been to quite a few specialists including diesel injector specialists and no one can get the car to start. Has anyone had a d5 not starting and discovered the fault. I'm in no hurry to get the car on the road as it will be a replacement taxi for my 406 which is still PSV'd till next April. As I'm not a french car fan I would be happy getting the Volvo on the road sooner but at least I have a bit of time. My experience however shows that when something seems so major and no one can solve it is when it turns out to be fairly simple. Any help or ideas would be so much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Only thing I can say you need to get the codes down loaded.

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Originally Posted by Harvey

Only thing I can say you need to get the codes down loaded.

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Once my mechanic gets the car transported to his garage he'll run his own diagnostics, just a little worrying now hearing other specialists have been at the car with no luck. Surely a car can't be that hard to fix!!!

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Originally Posted by hrhvolvo

Once my mechanic gets the car transported to his garage he'll run his own diagnostics, just a little worrying now hearing other specialists have been at the car with no luck. Surely a car can't be that hard to fix!!!

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Ooh yes they can be that hard to fix if you know them,the per hour cost at a workshop can right it off.

Scary stuff, my mechanic is Volvo trained however now works for Skoda and has been over the years very very good to me. If I don't rush him and allow him to take his time thankfully he won't roast me!!!

Hi, It may be a long shot, but worth a try ? Is the clutch working ok ? Remove starter motor and check the pick ups (for crank position sensor) at back of flywheel, make sure they are all present etc. I bought a V70 D5 SE with a very similar fault, (turned over, fired up then stopped) it had been to various Volvo dealers and had all 5 injectors replaced, new piston rings, ecu checked, new key programmed and almost a new high pressure pump fitted, until the previous owner pulled the plug on the money tree ! Ended up fitting new csc and full clutch kit as the csc had exploded and bent a pick up so the sensor failed to read correctly.

I'll be honest my gut is saying replace the clutch but I couldn't find reason for this to fail start. That however makes a lot of sense, I'll be talking with him tomorrow and get him to check just that, thank you

Any updates on your fault ?

Sorry I've no updates as yet. I wasn't on here for ages, I work 9 billion hours a week so generally the only chance I get to get on is on my iphone and the screen being so small makes it rather annoying. Anywho, cars still parked up I bought another and I've been concentrating on getting my C70 MOT'd so said S80 is still parked up but I will put it in the road and I will update.

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Originally Posted by Megdavida

Hi, It may be a long shot, but worth a try ? Is the clutch working ok ? Remove starter motor and check the pick ups (for crank position sensor) at back of flywheel, make sure they are all present etc. I bought a V70 D5 SE with a very similar fault, (turned over, fired up then stopped) it had been to various Volvo dealers and had all 5 injectors replaced, new piston rings, ecu checked, new key programmed and almost a new high pressure pump fitted, until the previous owner pulled the plug on the money tree ! Ended up fitting new csc and full clutch kit as the csc had exploded and bent a pick up so the sensor failed to read correctly.

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That would have been easily diagnosed using a Stinal led tester on the injectors/multi meter and an oscilloscope. Basics!

If you have a diagnostic tool that shows 'live readings' then you can interrogate the vehicle via the OBD port and do the following checks:

Make sure you have sufficient fuel! over 1/4 tank as a rule, as some cars can stop before the fuel runs dry to save fuel pump damage.
Is the battery fully charged? A high pressure diesel, like your D5, will need a minimum of 280rpm before it will switch the injectors.
Check for 12v and 5v at the MAF. This will show that the main relay and fuses are good and that the ECU is powered up as the 5v is it's reference voltage.

Using 'live readings' you can check for fuel rail pressure on crank. Needs to be 300bar otherwise the fuel injectors will not switch.
You can check the RPM signal, expect to see 280rpm+ on crank with a fully charged battery.
Using the 'Diesel Rail Pressure' turn on the ignition. You should see 4.5bar (450kpa). This means that the fuel pressure sensor is working. Now crank the engine and the pressure should rise to 300bar (30000kpa). The engine will now start. If it doesn't and the pressure rises above 750bar (750000kpa) then this indicates over pressure and the injectors will not switch. Below 300bar (30000kpa) usually indicates a fuel supply problem. Does it have an in tank electric pump? is it working?

If you have normal pressure (350bar) but the engine won't start then you need to check the injectors are switching. You must only use a Stinal led tester (not a NOID light) and you must disconnect the injector with the ignition 'off'. Crank and you should see the tester flash but might only be a few times before ECU shuts off the injectors.

If you don't have a 'live readings' on a plug in tool then you can still test the FPS using a multimeter:

1. Find the FPS (Fuel Pressure Sensor) - Normally on the Fuel rail and has a 3 pin plug. Using a multi meter on DC volts, with the 3 pin plug connected probe across pins 1 & 3 and you should get 5.0v. This says the sensor has power and an earth.
2. Connect one probe to earth and probe into pin 2 and you should see 0.5v. This says the sensor is working.
3. Now leaving the probes as per 2. Crank the engine and the voltage should rise to between 1 and 1.2v. (engine should start). Below this voltage indicates that you have low fuel pressure in the rail.

Using these simple tests should pretty much cover it. If the car still won't start then wish you'd never bought it!

That's impressive mate, I will absolutely have to give that a go. Wish you were local!!! I'll keep everyone posted.

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Originally Posted by hrhvolvo

That's impressive mate, I will absolutely have to give that a go. Wish you were local!!! I'll keep everyone posted.

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Lol, everyone's local on the internet!