2004 d5 2.4 euro 3

[Hodge911]

Hi does anyone know what the volts should read at idle on the M.A.P sensor located in the neck pipe of the intercooler.
I have the perm 5v supply volts and the ground and at idle I have a reading of 2v I think that is a tad high

[Dangerous Dave]

The voltage at idle should be around 2.32V according to the signal description list (this is for my 2004 Euro3 D5) and 2.29V with just the ignition on:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gz28pazu8a2enex/2004%20D5%20Signal%20Description.pdf?dl=0

[Hodge911]

The voltage at idle should be around 2.32V according to the signal description list (this is for my 2004 Euro3 D5) and 2.29V with just the ignition on:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gz28pazu8a2enex/2004%20D5%20Signal%20Description.pdf?dl=0

Thanks for taking time to reply mate .
Looking at the figures you give I'll take it that my M.A.P sensor is ok tthen as I've just been and double checked and the figures match what you've listed

[Dangerous Dave]

Thanks for taking time to reply mate .
Looking at the figures you give I'll take it that my M.A.P sensor is ok then as I've just been and double checked and the figures match what you've listed
No problem, that's what the forums are for (although quiet these days unfortunately).

If the voltages match then it should be working ok.

You could maybe test it under pressure to see if the voltage changes when on boost.

Just wondering, what issue has the car got that required you to test the map sensor?

[Hodge911]

No problem, that's what the forums are for (although quiet these days unfortunately).

If the voltages match then it should be working ok.

You could maybe test it under pressure to see if the voltage changes when on boost.

Just wondering, what issue has the car got that required you to test the map sensor?

Ger a cuppa & take a seat......
In oct the crankshaft pulley for the auxiliary drive belt separated and allowed some of the belt to get under the timing belt & jump the timing destroying the head.
Got a good S/H one sent to local machine shop to have it checked & decoked along with valves and seats recut & lapped in .
Built up with all new gaskets bolt s & belts.
Fully decoked the intake system . Car now starts off the button BUT .... when you go to pull away it has a really bad flat spot for around 3-4 seconds then it goes and drives fine changing gears as it should ect but when I need pull away again bad flat spot again . I've bought a vacuum gauge / tester checked all vacuum pipes ect all ok . Changed turbo control solenoid. So if I'm honest I'm at a loss now so started checking things that may give the fault ...
I have vida & dice but to be 100% honest I'm a complete novice at using / understanding it ... ( I was a mot tester / mechanic until I had to retire in 1996 due to a serious spinal injury )

[Dangerous Dave]

Mmmm, that was a good cup of tea (I really did drink some tea whilst reading)

Scary, I had better check my D5 for this issue, I've only just bought it and it's my first D5 so have a lot of learning to do. I don't fancy having to do an engine rebuild and use my 850 to commute whilst doing it (heavy fuel usage).

Sounds like you have the skills to hunt this issue down!

Quick search has found this:
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?45896-A-bit-of-D5-advice-needed-please

and this
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=115755

Amongst other ideas, both these threads mention the turbo inlet hose collapsing due age/degradation.

[Hodge911]

I'll check the turbo pipe in morning ... as for intercooler its spot on as I only replaced it 13 months ago... as the original was leaking & badly bowed when I bought car

[Dangerous Dave]

I'll check the turbo pipe in morning ... as for intercooler its spot on as I only replaced it 13 months ago... as the original was leaking & badly bowed when I bought car
Fingers crossed you find the problem mate

[Hodge911]

Fingers crossed you find the problem mate
Fingers crossed I may have found the cause ?. If not I've definitely found a fault that needs fixed .
I used the video instructions and the results are BAD when connected directly to the pump my vacuum gauge (same as in Simon video) bounces very badly and at max only reaches just over half way

https://youtu.be/-lgYAS3GoiE.

[Dangerous Dave]

Well at least you've found one problem. It could be this is causing the issue you are having.

[Hodge911]

Well at least you've found one problem. It could be this is causing the issue you are having.
Hopefully !! Especially as the vnt turbo is controlled via the vacuum passed through the control soleniod

[Dangerous Dave]

Exactly :D

[Hodge911]

Exactly :D
Replacement pump hopefully here on Tuesday.
I had to go with S/H .... as new nearly £300 and the cost of bits to repair belt failure damage has emptied my wallet .
The S/H unit has a 30 day g/tee and easy to change & test .
So I'll post results when fitted

[Dangerous Dave]

Replacement pump hopefully here on Tuesday.
I had to go with S/H .... as new nearly £300 and the cost of bits to repair belt failure damage has emptied my wallet .
The S/H unit has a 30 day g/tee and easy to change & test .
So I'll post results when fitted
Looking forward to the result!

[Hodge911]

Well replacement pump arrived 5pm last night . I've just been out and fitted & tested it with vacuum gauge .... it's a LOT better than my knackered pump which struggled to get to 400 max but was bouncing all over the place ... this on gets to 600 on gauge at tick over and is nice and static ..... took car for a drive and it seems to be ok now so looks like the knackered pump wasn't producing enough vacuum to work the turbo properly

[Hodge911]

Ignore my last post just been back out to car & took for a drive and fault still there. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

[Dangerous Dave]

Ah crap

[Hodge911]

Ah crap

Yep deffo.......
I'm a tad peed off with it at the min mate...
So much so I've spoke to one of my trade mates who's got all the latest diagnostics and is good at fault finding . He's going to have a go at it on Tuesday ...
So fingers crossed