Aircon - Asking for advice BEFORE I start this time...

[woz]

So I am about to lift the engine and box out, and since the a/c failed a few years back, I thought it would be a good time to replace any bits that are needed.

Only issue, is how to know which ones are stuffed without having a running engine to test it. So I may have to take things off, and take them in to a specialist for inspection/test on a bench of that is even possible?

Can anyone offer suggestions as to which components are going to be SOOO much easier to do while the engine is out than afterwards, even if I dont get it all working?
I believe therre are bits inside the car which I can do later when the dash comes out, but there must be an evaporator, compressor possibly pressure switch (other sensors??) under the bonnet? Haynes is fairly thin on detail.
Since it hasnt had refrigerant in it for probably 5 years I guess I wont blow the ozone layer up if I simply disconnect it all?? I know this because the last thing that happended was I took it for a re-gas and they refused as it was leaking and they could not even put dye in to trace the leak.

The last question is ... (for now) does that mean the pump will automatically be screwed as it will have done maybe 50-60k without anything to pump?

Any thoughts from anyone who has done this before would be most welcome.

Cheers

Woz

p.s just bought the Haynes Auto aircon manual - so thats bedtime reading for the next week or so... LOL Another ££££ mag as my wife puts it. Bless!

[nobananas]

Pump won't automatically be knackered as if it's got an external clutch it won't have been engaged if there is no pressure in the system so the pump won't have been spinning but it may have seized by now due to lack of use !. AC systems don't like to be open to atmosphere for a long time, likely the receiver/dryer will need replacing as they are designed to absorb moisture.

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[LeeT5]

Most common to fail is the Condenser due to its expose to stone chip damage at the front. Being as the crappy Volvo IC's are also made of plastic (side chambers) and prone to splitting, and the Coolant radiators are known to leak in the bottom corners over time, you may aswell replace the entire triple rad pack!

[woz]

Thanks Leet5, Thanks Nobananas , what you say makes total sense. What a great excuse to spend even more money...;>)

I have a replacement i/c and a fairly recent rad in mileage terms, but its all coming out for the duration so will have a good ole look at them.

Got a mobile guy coming to do an initial assessment - he too reckoned the condenser was a likely area for concern based on his experience of 850's. Its only £25 for the initial session so money well spent I reckon.

Got my Haynes aircon book and what a good read it is too. It is clear that receiever dryer needs replacing if the condenser does because all the crap collects there and they lose efficiency.

So do I keep aircon or get a D088 rip and intercooler??. Let me think about it...

Will update on progress when there is some. Thanks for the pointers.

[nobananas]

TBH I messed about with my old T5 for ages trying to get the A/C working. Replaced everything including pulling out the dash and changing the evaporator, even borrowed an A/C machine for a month whilst I chased down leaks, still couldn't get it to work for more than a couple of weeks. My current R came to me with the condensor missing and all the pipework had been dragging on the floor and worn through, I just ditched it all !

[woz]

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[kmb]

I'd think that a condensor, dryer bottle (if fitted) and regas inc dye would be a good call... Just had exactly that done on my 48k miler 2010 C30 T5...

How poor to fail so soon, like Lee says theyre very prone to stone damage, funny when my 96 850 T5 A/C still worked, but at least all sorted now.

[woz]

Tuesday Update: £25 for inspection - I had taken front bumper off and headlight panel. The history was it had a leak so could not be gassed up with dye.

George used his UV torch and noted previous dye marks on compressor and accumulator drier. Gassed it up with nitrogen - bubble test showed significant leaks at compressor seals, and O ring joints where pips connect to condensor, compressor and acc.dryer. The drier body had a rust pinhole.
Condensor itself looked OK amazingly but will replace that if I decide to do the rest of it. Great guy - gave me lots of tips on how to dismantle and what to look out for.

Hope to get time next week to start spannering again. Will post up pics if anyone interested. Its becoming a project!!
.

[kmb]

I'm interested. Look forwards to the progress.

[woz]

Bought a set of spring clip disconnection tools today. <£10!! Need them for disconnecting the "spring clip connectors" in the refrigerant lines. Hope the set of four will cover the right size... next step is locating source of O rings - hope that a generic kit of AC O rings off the interweb will do, if not its down to Volvo Parts. Finding suppliers for condensor and Acc/dryer (new) looks easy enough, but hoping to get a good 2h compressor to save £100. The evaporator is still a risk as we have not inspected that. Now gathering bits together but will not make real progress until engine and box are out.