Replacing subframe bushes

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Has anyone here had the dubious pleasure of replacing their subframe bushes in situ?

I read a load of stuff about the job weeks back, with various different approaches used, which I can manage myself. But I'm really really not sure whether to take this one upon myself. Some people have found it fairly easy and said first one might take an hour and after that it's dead easy, other people have said it's taken them hours to do just one bush. I'm comfortable with the removal, it's the pressing in that worries me. I'm one of those unlucky types that if someone says a job will take 15 mins, it'll take me an hour, and if it's supposed to take an hour it'll take me 4 hours. And it's not due to lack of skills or understanding or poor tools etc, it's always that something crops up that deviates the job from being as straight forward as it should (usually effing rust, stuff being cross threaded, seized or rounded off). So whilst I'm totally fine with this job in theory, I'm sort of convinced it's going to go tits up.

I hate throwing away money on labour for stuff I should be able to do myself. And I just know that if I ask a garage to do it, they'll say it's a subframe off job and straight away it's going to be much more expensive. If I balk at this, I think I'll just end up getting new wishbones, BJs and a 2nd subframe bush (cos the rear OS could do with being replaced too) and let the garage drop the subframe off (yes, I know doing the wishbones etc doesn't need the subframe dropped) and they can just do the bloody lot, but that'll meaning waiting a few months and this bloody knocking noise is doing my nut in.

Looking for sensible encouragement or well meaning "don't do it" advice depending on what your personal experience is with this task.

[stricky1967]

Has anyone here had the dubious pleasure of replacing their subframe bushes in situ?

I'm comfortable with the removal, it's the pressing in that worries me. I'm one of those unlucky types that if someone says a job will take 15 mins, it'll take me an hour, and i.

Looking for sensible encouragement or well meaning "don't do it" advice depending on what your personal experience is with this task.

Apparently the 2 piece delrin subframe bushes are a lot easier to fit , I've got front and rear ready to go on along with the new anti-roll bars

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[Gold 'N' Brown]

I'd imagine they are a lot easier. But where from and how much? I can only see them for sale at US stockists for ~$180 a set. Not sure I'd want the extra vibration in mine. I've already got a lot from a poly bushed g'box torque rod.

[stricky1967]

I'd imagine they are a lot easier. But where from and how much? I can only see them for sale at US stockists for ~$180 a set. Not sure I'd want the extra vibration in mine. I've already got a lot from a poly bushed g'box torque rod.

Got mine from a fella in Germany was a bit cheaper without the import tax etc.

Was not without a few 'supply issues' though and had to wait a while. So wish I'd got them from the states instead.

From everything I've read there's no extra vibration.

[Dangerous Dave]

If you're going oem then getting the old ones out is the hard and laborious part. When I did mine I used a sharp wood chisel to cut through the plastic outer ring which meant they popped out easily. It is still quite tough getting through the rubber so I used some wd40 to help the chisel slide through easier.

Putting the new ones in I used a block of wood to hold the subframe away from the chassis and tightened the bolt to push the mount into the subframe. Oh and I applied some grease to the plastic of the mount to help it slide in easier (straight faces please)

[LeeT5]

Why bother?

Why not just fit Polyurthane Subframe bush Void inserts? Very, very simple and has the same desired affect. Alot bloody cheaper aswell!

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[M-R-P]

Got a set of inserts in the garage, bought them of grahame welch, who got them from Harvey I believe.


Must get round to fitting them I suppose, it's quite an easy job.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I've got inserts in the front two. Can't get them in the rear two as they are ££££ed (it was doing this job that drew my attention to the knackered rear NS one). The metal collar has rusted which causes the rubber to balloon outwards from it and this closes up the gap in the bush, so short of using a hydraulic press I'm not going to get the inserts in to the rear ones. Once they get this bad I think it would be a waste of time putting the inserts in anyway.

[Harvey]

Got a set of inserts in the garage, bought them of grahame welch, who got them from Harvey I believe.


Must get round to fitting them I suppose, it's quite an easy job.

Yes he did, Very easy to watch them being fitted holding a coffee cup , car on two post lift and transmission jack used to press them in.

[Harvey]

Why bother?

Why not just fit Polyurthane Subframe bush Void inserts? Very, very simple and has the same desired affect. Alot bloody cheaper aswell!

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These are the ones I had fitted.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

The inserts are a piece of piss to get in (if the void hasn't closed up like I described above). Providing you use copious amounts of grease on them (the little sachet provided is way too little IMO). With and impact gun to whiz the bolts in and out, and using a trolley jack to press them in (I used something like a 35mm socket as a press) they only take about 10mins a piece.

I got mine off eBay for about £22. Turned out to be the Pro Parts Sweden ones that I think PFS sell.

[LeeT5]

The subframe bolts should be torqued to 104Nm + 120 degrees, not tightened with an impact gun!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

The subframe bolts should be torqued to 104Nm + 120 degrees, not tightened with an impact gun!

You've assumed I didn't do that Lee. Come on, don't take everything so literally!

[stricky1967]

Why bother?

Why not just fit Polyurthane Subframe bush Void inserts? Very, very simple and has the same desired affect. Alot bloody cheaper aswell!

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I tried those inserts first but honestly couldn't tell any difference they seemed pretty squishy to me. I read that the inserts work best with brand new OE sub-frame bushes rather than worn ones with 100's of thousands of miles on.

Another option I considered were the blue XC90 ones which are a bit firmer rubber than stock V70 ones. Think IPD sell them as 'uprated' for the R.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6305/112765-hd-front-subframe-bushing

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Looking forward to getting mine done as people say that the difference is pretty marked, which I'd believe as the sub-frame acts as a datum for everything else that hangs off it.

oh. another option for removal I've read about would be a hole saw

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[Gold 'N' Brown]

I read that the inserts work best with brand new OE sub-frame bushes rather than worn ones with 100's of thousands of miles on.


Makes total sense to me. They are a sticking plaster approach. They are only reducing movement within the bush by filling the empty space. If the rest of the rubber is perished etc then there will still be more movement than with fresh bushes. Also remember that the bush protrudes through the top of the subframe creating a small gap between the subframe and car body. As the rubber weakens and becomes more compressed that gap can diminish and lead to the subframe and body meeting. Volvo made a rubber O ring to go in that gap for the S80 to address clonking noises caused by this.

And apparently (well, from my reading anyway) the problem I have with my rear bushes - the metal collar rusting and causing the rubber to separate and swell - is quite common. So even if I could get the inserts in to them, it's just a bodge to lessen the effect of a knackered bush. Mine has only done 105k miles, but it's 17 years old and lives outside so I guess the elements have just taken hold and caused the corrosion in the bush.

[Raimondas]

Have u hoy contact of that fella ho supply u with them derlin bushes m8?

[MoleT-5R]

Have u hoy contact of that fella ho supply u with them derlin bushes m8?

Just get hold of Tim Williams in Coalville, he supplies solid aluminium replacement subframe mountings which seems to be the way to go theses days and no increase in vibration apparently.

[LeeT5]

I'm sorry Adrian but I fail to see how changing rubber mounting to solid wont give you noise vibration?
Even after i fitted my Bush inserts, the first thing you notice is an increase in growl from the engine and an extremely subtle increase in vibration.
Having a solid aluminium mount would surely mean all the noise vibration travelling through just the top engine mounts.
I dare say it would improve gear changing though, mine radically improved.

[MoleT-5R]

I agree, but Tim reckons there is no trade off in vibration and only a gain in body stiffness/handling etc, if i get the time I think I will machine up my own and road test some, as I do think all these rubber mountings are a tad excessive tbh (with all the other rubber mounts the other items are in), I like to push these cars a bit an look for proven upgrades, even if Tim makes them or I make my own, i still like to push for improvements where ever I can find them, next issue will be trying to decide which car to test them in.

[JT]

I agree, but Tim reckons there is no trade off in vibration and only a gain in body stiffness/handling etc, if i get the time I think I will machine up my own and road test some, as I do think all these rubber mountings are a tad excessive tbh (with all the other rubber mounts the other items are in), I like to push these cars a bit an look for proven upgrades, even if Tim makes them or I make my own, i still like to push for improvements where ever I can find them, next issue will be trying to decide which car to test them in.

I have a spare set you can use as a pattern if you like?

[MoleT-5R]

I have a spare set you can use as a pattern if you like?

Thanks, I may well take you up on that JT, nice to see you popped in for a catch up.

[JT]

Thanks, I may well take you up on that JT, nice to see you popped in for a catch up.

Still pop in when I can :wave23d:

let me know and I'll see if the boss will post you one ;)