Jon's New V70R

[jellison]

Hi Guys,

Just bought a 2 previous owner V70R (Silver with Tan leather). FSH, 88.7k miles.

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Looks like the first owner had until a year ago up to 81k and then last one till 88.7k.

Few opinions before I get to the R.

I've had a few Volvo's in the past, 850T5 and a P2T5. 850 was IHO a better car that the later cars just because it was smaller. A std 850T5 has a much tighter car than the bigger lardier P2 shape cars, much of this just being weight. The P2T5 I still have (father had from new and I have run for 3+years), was always a disappointment over the 850T5 (both bought new), just bigger heavier and much more rolly poly. But you get used to it. Engine definitely better in P2 (pity chassis the other way). Anyway P2 was / is a mega tow car and damn fast in a straight line when required.

I did always hanker after winding the power up on P2 and did first with a Jetex SS system (small difference and bit better noise - nothing aggressive) and then with a custom remap by a company my father has used to have 4 vehicle done in the past (all with amazing results). With this done it was a bloody missile (faster than the R (more on that below) once out of wheelspining first). Pre map base power was 251 so 1nhp up on std (but then you have to think it never had a true 250 and the Jetex had gotten it to that start point (I/m guessing it had 10-11 up on std from the feel). Remap took it to 303. This was way to much for the std 16J rims and 215/55 tyres, so got a set of multi-spoke Borbet Volvo rims (not seen on many other Volvo), with new 235/17/45 Goodyear Eagle F1 (3's). These really help get the power down and just better over all grip. Was thinking about the suspension at this point but I kind of had grown used to the std soft setup (it is a massive barge not a race car), so left as is. But fantastic now (done a huge amount to it over and above normal stuff in last year or so; full clutch and mass flywheel change a few months back, 17" wheels and tyres, all new brakes and pads, alternator, PAS pump and more).

But then gradually feeling I'd like a newer much lower mile car (T5 is at 155k, but as I say one family from new so I know the history and have driven from day one) for the next 5+ years or so. Plus towing a race car abroad with a car over 15 years old you hit a brick wall with "get you home" assistance for the tow vehicle and the trailer and racer (unless pay way extra)! So starting looking about for a newer much lower mile V70R.

Anyway found this relatively low mile car and hope this can be good for a good long while.

First impressions:-
1. So many gadgets! Seems to have everything bar satnav and subwoofer (even has those twin pop-up rear seats in the boot).
2. Not sure yet on the fancy dampers (seems it has had 3 front in it life to this point). Hardest setting is just pointless (like having no damping at all - like and Audi and then some!). Comfort and Sport seem pretty good, but why not just get the compromise right between these for one fixed damper. May change opinion, but they cost a sh*tload and seem to not last that long, where as std dampers on my old T5 are the originals and seems the same (soft) now as they did when brand new.
3. Not convinced by the AWD yet, OK it is great in low gears for traction and not destroying the tyres, but so much more complicated stuff in there (not just mechanical bits like a rear diff and driveshaft, but all the computerised crap to go wrong), once you are up and running what does it really offer apart from lugging and extra 100 odd kg about (that is Massive amount).
4. Performance. This is totally standard car. This seems better in a straight line than the std P2T5 (but not by much once out of the low gears). In the low gears it is way quicker than the 2wd car, but once into say 3rd, no better (it is lugging that big extra weight about). I'd gues it has about 290bhp (just on feel of the engine vs the feel of the extra weight). 3rd gear and up I'd say the performance (pure straightline) falls some where between std T5 and mapped / pipped T5. You can feel it has a lot more to give (knowing how much the map and catback did for the T5), but just feels held back (again the weight). I'm thinking this is going to need 340+bhp to be on par with the old T5 from 3rd and up (but it is already better up to that point).
5. The tow bar on it id bloody hideous. I have an expensive removable one that site under the back valance. One on it is non removable and have had rear valance cut to accommodate (that will need fixing when the other one takes its place). Will sell or bin the std one when the T5 is sold.
6. Brakes, nothing special. You'd expect those fancy 4 pots all round to be better than they are. They are Ok, but not really any better than the all new stuff is giving me in the tweeked T5. There is a very slight judder from the front which I'll get looked at asap (only when car has been driven for 5-10 miles and warmed up - not noticed on test drive, but Volvo service papers did mention it as a recommended thing to be looking at).

These are the impressions after less than 2 fill ups so far.

Car for me is going to be a luxury barge that can when required really get up and go (and tow). For me way to big and lardy to through more than a catback and a remap at (rest will stay standard I'm thinking at this point). Have some other stuff went I want nibble and fast cars (I like old bet very muddied classic stuff - so easy to work on).

Fast stuff https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp?memberId=7660

I have been looking at LeeT5's thread (respect - but partly scared by the amount he show that can go wrong (great for him he can fix these modern things or has a much cheaper repair route than most) and will get to Harvey's soon. The level of knowledge the guys are bringing is mega and I hope to cherry pick certain bits they have done (but not get carried away).

Cheers
Jon
Jellison

[M-R-P]

Hell of a writeup.
It's nice to see a genuine back-to-back opinion of the two p2 cars. I've not really rated the R models due to the much higher running costs and weight (standard p2 is 1500-1600kg, R is around 1700kg, 850 is just over 1400kg). The awd has got to be a bonus but a fwd p2 with sorted suspension is quite the weapon. Good tyres are a must when running over 300bhp in the fwd p2, I discovered that after fitting the bigger turbo.

[jellison]

Hell of a writeup.
It's nice to see a genuine back-to-back opinion of the two p2 cars. I've not really rated the R models due to the much higher running costs and weight (standard p2 is 1500-1600kg, R is around 1700kg, 850 is just over 1400kg). The awd has got to be a bonus but a fwd p2 with sorted suspension is quite the weapon. Good tyres are a must when running over 300bhp in the fwd p2, I discovered that after fitting the bigger turbo.Cheers M-R-P. I am a bit scared of all the extra complexity on the (does not need any of it in my opinion (if AWD should be just a diff, prop and driveshaft with simple box distribution the power front to back), then all these level sensors and the like (WTF). Just needed std good dampers a the mid Sport setting.

P2T5 is about 1650 and R AWD about 1750. 100kg is MASSIVE if you race or you hit the gym and lift a std "Olympic plate".

Agree on std 2wd big power P2. Mind T5 with much stiffer setup (Lowered Bilstein kit) that would be mega. R could be had as 2wd too (BTCC cars have about 340bhp now, but obviously state of the art suspension to get that 2wd power down).

I do like the 6 speed box. And engine very smooth and great at tickover pulling in gridlock traffic (no need for auto). When looking for T5 replacement main thing was space of the P2T5, no diesel :nono: or auto's (maybe when 70).

The jump in power when the catback and the remap was done on T5 was bloody fantastic (guessing at 60bhp as no base with std exhaust taken). If I can get the same kind of jump with this one it will get it where I think it needs to be. Then I will keep best bone stock (maybe the odd minor thing). Just going through what catback to get (no rush, will do when T5 sold or in Autumn). Seems a few off the shelf options (just the basic Jetex for the R (virtually the same as the T5 one), IPD (very tempted but about 750 landed and taxes paid, or a custom one (Zero exhaust in Kent), then off to same mapped (but only a 2 wheel rollers) so have to get it tested back in Surrey on 4x4 SRR for proper numbers.

No rush.

Plan to keep the mile off as much as I can on this one, keep for a long time and keep fingers X'd only all this overly complex electronic crap.

[M-R-P]

Carefull mapping and modding the R - they have a habit of splitting liners.

[jellison]

Will not be going crazy (mild tune and something like IPD nothing extreme). It just need waking up a bit. No rush and if and when it get done will be step by step, just something like the IPD or similar might be enough. Will defo not be chasing crazy power, I have this for mind bending power to weight (480/ton!).
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[antonys60r]

Fantastic start to a thread, great read ! . Regards the awd it would be a good idea to get all the fluids changed angle gear , haldex coupling and filter and the rear diff. It's not on any volvo service schedule because volvo say it filled for life , not a chance . I change mine every 2 years for piece of mind as it's a lot cheaper than replacing the awd hardware.

[jellison]

Fantastic start to a thread, great read ! . Regards the awd it would be a good idea to get all the fluids changed angle gear , haldex coupling and filter and the rear diff. It's not on any volvo service schedule because volvo say it filled for life , not a chance . I change mine every 2 years for piece of mind as it's a lot cheaper than replacing the awd hardware.Cheers Anthony. will add to list. Could you clarify, what all those bits are! I was thinking the Haldex was the diff (see what I mean about it seems overly complex) and will surely have some bits fail at some point.
Angle gear?

[antonys60r]

You have the angle gear as volvo call it which is the transfer box. You have to pump the oil out and in to refill. Usually the splined sleeve from the gearbox fails mine did. Yours should be ok as it's a facelift model. Then there is the aoc active on demand coupling, the haldex which has a filter as well. Again pump the oil out and to refill. The pump has a mesh filter on it that you can remove and clean. You need to remove the exhaust and propshaft to remove the haldex pump. Lastly the rear diff again pump oil out and in to refill. I always use genuine volvo fluids for each. Lots of information on doing these jobs all over this forum and the internet.

[Harvey]

Hi & welcome.
Nice intro there. As said already give it a service on drive line first.

If I was starting on my car again the 2 things I would do first would be the front subframe inserts then the Ipd sway bars the difference they make is amazing the way it drives.
Both things don't affect the comfort or noise of the car.
looking forward to seeing what you do to it over time .

[jellison]

Thanks Anthony - noted.

Harvey, what do these insert do?

You could spend a lot on the ipd site!

Any one on here gone for the IPD cat-back, weighing up this vs custom, or cheaper (but better than std as have on my T5) Jetex. IPD is one big bore pipe the whole way where as the Jetex is more like a std setup.

Took the better tow bar off the T5 yesterday - holy crap that thing is heavy (must be 40kg). Power weight even better on hat one now...

[jellison]

Got the car in to have the front brake judder looked at (on last service as advisory, but ignored - presume spent enough (quite a bit) pre-sale). Rippled and beyond a skim. Bin them.

Even though just the fronts, when I started adding up the price of 2x OEM disc (all been OEM up to this point from records), and OEM pad I did get a bit jittery, then remembered Lee's Brembo full brake swap recommendation. I figure the back will be needing doing at some point even if not done just now.

So get this kit, get fronts done and rears as and when or over winter for something to do....

** Can anyone recommend a high flow Air filter for the R. Had one of these in the T5 before mapped http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=2220 (doubt I'll ever get to use the cleaning stuff now). Is there something like this to upgrade flow for the cylindrical R type?

[antonys60r]

To be honest stick to the original oem filter just remove the foam sock as it reduces induction noise. The oem filter and air box is good for up to 500bhp. Plus no chance of maf failure due to over oiling the cotton gauze on the performance filter. I have always used k&n filters on every car I've owned except this one.

[jellison]

Will do Anthony, thanks.

[htomi]

LeeT5 and myself are using the Jetex filter. No issues here. JTX-T80298
https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/266442/volvo/jetex-replacement-air-filters/jtx-t80298.html

As Anthony said above, nothing wrong with the paper filter either. Mann p/n: C 12 003

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER%20Katalog%20Europa/Vehicles/CARS%20%2B%20TRANSPORTERS/VOLVO%20CARS/V70/2.5%20R%20AWD%20B%205254%20T4%20(T6621)/Air%20Filter/C%2012%20003

[jellison]

Is the Jetex one of the one that can be cleaned with that spray or just another disposable type? Will only get when I put catback and map on it. Will get by with OK performance till then.

[M-R-P]

Air filters go in the dishwasher just fine :)



(apart from paper filters. Don't out paper in the dishwasher)

[htomi]

Is the Jetex one of the one that can be cleaned with that spray or just another disposable type? Will only get when I put catback and map on it. Will get by with OK performance till then.
Yes, it can be cleaned and re-oiled.

[LeeT5]

Is the Jetex one of the one that can be cleaned with that spray or just another disposable type? Will only get when I put catback and map on it. Will get by with OK performance till then.

Its a bit like a K+N, so you clean it and refit.
However, I've noticed that after about the 3rd clean (30K) it's starting to get a little ropey. So, I'll be buying a new one for the next service.
Just don't oil it!! :wink:....wash, rinse then air dry for 24hrs before refitting. I always remove and clean the MAF at the same time, using MAF cleaner.

[jellison]

Lee, did I here you track your R? Brands (if you are in Kent?).

[LeeT5]

Lee, did I here you track your R? Brands (if you are in Kent?).

I've never tracked my car.

[jellison]

I did wonder!!

Mmm, not sure where I get that from then. Last car you'd want to track...

[jellison]

Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!

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[jellison]

It's odd that the disc's don't seem massive when you open the box or see them sat behind an enormous 18" rim, until you put a tape on them and realize, yep they are 330mm (front and back!). I can see how it needs these to haul up the huge weight though.

[LeeT5]

Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!



That's because the caliper that those pads are fitted with has the dreaded alloy corrosion and expansion issue.
I had to replace three of my calipers after they were all suffering the same fate.

Basically, the stainless steel plate that is the guide for the pads, is held in by a single Torques screw (x25 I think).
Having stainless steel and bare alloy (in the thread hole) causes galvanic corrosion and it causes the hole to close up and expand the alloy, lifting the stainless steel plate off the surface, this in turn makes the pads very difficult to refit, especially when new.
Grinding paint and a little bit of metal of the end of the pad will allow you to fit but will result in the pad not sitting in the correct position in relation to the disc surface. This will, in a short space of time result in pad/disc squeal that does not go away even after applying brake pad grease to the rear of the pads.
Over time, this can also cause the pads to bind and not wear evenly and correctly on both sides, resulting in premature failure and early replacement of the pads.

Removing the pads at every service and thoroughly cleaning all the brake dust off the caliper slides and caliper body will help but the only way to cure the issue is to replace the caliper.

I've got one more rear caliper to replace due to this issue and it's the one that is constantly noisy under light braking (the one remaining caliper thats not been replaced). On the last service I removed the pads and they were an absolute pig to get out.

I wouldn't advise trying to remove the screw and plate with the aim of cleaning or filing away the bare exposed alloy corrosion as you'll cause the hole to crumble and the screw will never go back in and you won't be able to secure the plate, rendering the caliper U/S.

[jellison]

Replace the vanity cover in front right corner of engine bay with new (had a big crack across it).

Now found the top engine mount is knackered (Christ this things seem to last 5 minutes!).

Gonna get the poly version and the poly'd underneath gearbox/torque one too (have you seen the IPD vid showing how much play is in the std one of these (small end movement is Nuts!!)).

Was thinking about the solid strut brace mounts too, but in the end decided (it is a luxury express) to go with the poly inserts for the std mounts. http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=2303

Surprises me that this car was FSH at Volvo, plus other for minor stuff and the brakes were shot and the top mount is shagge'd too (just presuming the bottom on is too and the ne std one being made of putty has to be an uprated one).

[jellison]

Just change mind. Change to the solid strut mounts instead.

[jellison]

Update.

Should have not change my mind on the solid strut mounts. While the poly upper and lower engine steadies are great the solid strut mounts are way way too much (IMO). The extra vibs through feet and cabin at lower engine speeds is awful - I would not be impressed with this on a race car! Don't get me wrong the 3 together make for a much better driving experience as far as performance is concerned, but the extra the solid mounts gives is unacceptable in my book. If it was a tracked Scoobie I might think it worth it, not in a luxury performance wagon.

Harvey - getting the subframe inserts today along with the strut brace (std) poly insert kit. Hopefully report the difference in next week or so.

All bits very easy to fit. Only pain was having to take the plastic cover off the top of the engine to get at one of the corner bolts holding the top steady on, and to do this the 2 middle star bolts could not be gotten out without taking the big ali intercooler pipe off (on T5 the plastic one could just be gently pushed out of the way to get to these).

[LeeT5]

I have Solid IPD engine brace brackets, Superpro top engine mount, Powerflex Black series top engine mount (small rear bush), Powerflex purple lower transmission torque mount (small bush is PF, larger bush is stock) and subframe poly inserts and absolutely no cabin vibration whatsoever!

I believe the vibration your experiencing is coming from the larger top engine mount. What colour and make is it your using?

[jellison]

I have Solid IPD engine brace brackets, Superpro top engine mount, Powerflex Black series top engine mount (small rear bush), Powerflex purple lower transmission torque mount (small bush is PF, larger bush is stock) and subframe poly inserts and absolutely no cabin vibration whatsoever!

I believe the vibration your experiencing is coming from the larger top engine mount. What colour and make is it your using?bright blue from parts for Volvo.

Gonna try std brace mounts on again over weekend to pinpoint.

But I was under the impression that the top and bottom poly mounts were the fore and aft movement.
Where as the brace it thing the towers to the body structure laterally.

I'll see what I find. Will pop in the subframe bushes when I get them, the experiment with the inserts for the
Std strut brace brackets. Low speed and off idle the worse areas for it. Car feels tight though.

[LeeT5]

bright blue from parts for Volvo.

Gonna try std brace mounts on again over weekend to pinpoint.

But I was under the impression that the top and bottom poly mounts were the fore and aft movement.
Where as the brace it thing the towers to the body structure laterally.

I'll see what I find. Will pop in the subframe bushes when I get them, the experiment with the inserts for the
Std strut brace brackets. Low speed and off idle the worse areas for it. Car feels tight though.

Then the bright blue Poly bush is obviously too hard and the reason for getting dash vibration.

I kept my setup as it is and recently tried a PF black series engine top mount and the vibration was insane!!! Took it straight out and sold it for £20.

I then fitted the purple Superpro bush. Sweet!

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SuperPro-Polyurethane-Front-Engine-Steady-Car-Bush-Kit-OE-Replacement-SPF2563K-/331509011687?epid=1425291320&hash=item4d2f7a14e7:g:zJ8AAOSwRJ9XhJ3i

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Reading with interest as I'm trying to decide on an appropriate bush combo for my T5. I wonder if the actual engine mounts could be contibutory to the excessive vibes after fitting the solid engine cross stay brackets. Jon, any idea of the age and condition of your front and rear engine mounts? Same to you Lee, have you replaced yours in the relatively near past?

[jellison]

Once I have the std brace top mount inserts and tried, I'll know if the solids or the top mount.

Car only 89k, so doubt the 4 bad engine mounts. Popping inserts in those over weekenend.
Does feel good bar vibe off idle.

Just needs another 50bhp. Have you guys read thread by US Doug!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I was meaning these mounts Jon
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/product_info.php?cPath=105_769_777&products_id=4494

PFV do say about the solid engine cross stay brackets that you will get excessive vibes if there is any wear in any of the other engine mounts/bushes, which I take to mean the ones I've linked above, plus the gearbox torque rod, gearbox mount, top engine mount big bush and rear small bush (any others I've missed?).

[LeeT5]

Reading with interest as I'm trying to decide on an appropriate bush combo for my T5. I wonder if the actual engine mounts could be contibutory to the excessive vibes after fitting the solid engine cross stay brackets. Jon, any idea of the age and condition of your front and rear engine mounts? Same to you Lee, have you replaced yours in the relatively near past?

They've never been replaced and are not known for failing, apart from the Diesels with the vacuum mounts.

If you fit the brace brackets first with a stock large top mount, you'll find a very subtle, if any increase in vibration. The steering will sharpen up a little too.
In my experience and playing around with various bushes on my car now, it's the Larger top mount bush that makes a huge difference to cabin vibration.
The brackets, top small bush, trans lower torque control bush and subframe bush inserts are ALL contributory factors but only in very small doses.

If I had a stock car with stock bushes and wanted to do it all again, I'd do the following:

1/ Subframe inserts - sharpen throttle response and increase engine growl (no difference to cabin vibration)
2/ Lower transmission torque control bush - Buy the latest (improved) OE bush and replace ONLY the small bush with PF purple. Sharpens throttle response and gear changes (No difference to cabin vibration)
3/ Top engine mount - small bush - change to PF Black series - just adds longevity to mount (No difference to cabin vibration)
4/ Top engine mount - Large bush - CRITICAL bush with major impact on cabin vibration depending on bush type fitted! Do not fit PF Black series, it's ridiculous and ruins the car - massive vibrations, especially when AC on.
5/ Engine brace end mounts/brackets - PF purple inserts 50% improvement (No cabin vibration + no change to steering) - IPD/PFV brackets 100% improvement (No cabin vibration + slight improvement to steering feel and throttle response, more growl!)

Types of bush

Major differences in poly mean you can play around with the bush type to find the one that suits your need. IMHO its always the Top engine mount - Large bush that makes or breaks the cabin feel.

PF yellow - soft - in many ppls experience, including my own, these don't last long and will start to break up over time. Transmit subtle vibration.
PF purple - medium - Good quality and last a long time. Not available as an Top engine mount - Large bush (only on 850 models), but work well everywhere else!
PF Black series - very hard - Forget this as an engine mount! :slap: Works brilliantly on suspension bushes etc.

SuperPro (Australian) - soft - Looks good (better than PF) Dark Purple in colour. Subtle cabin vibration that does not worsen with AC on. Highly recommend!

PFV - Never used so can not give an opinion. They look great (right colour ;)) I may try one in the future....

Summary

Poly bushes can be talked about until the cows come home. Bottom line is, everyones preference is different. Vibration to one man is harsh yet to another it's not!
You need to experiment and see what works for you, but it's important to remember that once you go down the poly route, it will change the way any car feels and even changing oe bushes to poly on the suspension can have an impact, no matter how small, to the rest of the car.
It's also important to remember that 'Any action has an equal and opposite reaction'. Meaning, if you fit a poly bush and the resulting vibration, that is present in the car before you fitted the poly bush, cannot be absorbed in its entirety, then the remaining vibration will be transmitted elsewhere.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Just a shame the superpro top engine mount bush (big) is only available as the early style circular bush. I chucked my old circular mount away when I renewed it with the stock later type (bugger). Not seeing aby used ones on eBay either as most have been replaced over the years with the later style. I'll try my local breakers when I next go but they were low on V70/S60/S80 when I was last in.

[LeeT5]

Just a shame the superpro top engine mount bush (big) is only available as the early style circular bush. I chucked my old circular mount away when I renewed it with the stock later type (bugger). Not seeing aby used ones on eBay either as most have been replaced over the years with the later style. I'll try my local breakers when I next go but they were low on V70/S60/S80 when I was last in.

I bought my round bush off eBay last year for about £20.
I'm thinking about removing mine and having it vapour blasted to look like brand new. Only costs about £20 for small items.

[LeeT5]

Here we go....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221105385537

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Here we go....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221105385537

Nice one, but I'll give that a miss. No point buying new just to cut out and replace the bush (well, not if I can actually find a 2nd hand donor mount anyway!). I'll prob bash on with the rest of the bushes mentioned above and leave that till last while I try and source the mount.

Sorry for sidelining your topic Jon, but hopefully there was some value in it.

[jellison]

Had 300 mile weekend with the vibs. Could not wait to get the solid strut mounts off and the poly mount inserts in the std mounts (have painted std cleaned Ines w humbrol met 54 - look great to show something here change). As I thought instantly sorted.

The inserts pull into the std open bush withe the big cover washer and grease. Some proper compliance, but mega firm without being solid (I would not put up with how it was on a racer).

4 engine poly inserts going in tomorrow (few days off).

Really starting to appreciate that the car is a good jump chassis wise over the T5 now, even if carrying more lard.

[jellison]

31742 Poly inserts to the std strut mounts.

Think I might use that paint to cover the blue cam and spark plug cover plus the bit at the front with the R on (maybe a winter job).

Plus done the Engine mount inserts this morning. They are a nice change too. Was expecting a more "Sporty" i.e. choppy ride, but was pleasently surprised that the ride is actually more compliant over ridges and bumps. Another bit done.

Think enough fiddly for now. Have to concentrate on race cars for a bit!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

You keep mentioning engine mount inserts. I assume you mean the 4 subframe bush inserts.

[jellison]

yes.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Jon, what are you doing with the solid strut mounts you took off? Would you sell them to me if they are going spare?

[jellison]

Hi chaps, I posted this http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?63768-Emissions-Warning-light&p=813689#post813689

but think maybe you (more focused guys might have an idea). Book into Volvo, but they want 120 quid just to open the bonnet. Mate seems to think it could be a gummed up EGR valve. Do the petrol V70's have these? Can't find with a Google.

other post has me saying this:-

"this came on yesterday half way to Donington Park from Surrey. After I'd looked it up on getting there, relieved it was not some major engine thing.

Not had this on either of previous 2 Volvo's in several 100k and current R has only 90 on it. Any idea's what it will likely be?

Cat (can't see it at 90k), O2 sensor? Performance no different (well not that I could see towing)."

Then "Ah ok, trip to the dealer then!

Might explain the very intermittent cutting out I have had since buying the car 2k miles ago.

On a run this might only happen once or twice the whole journey, but just driving along it will hesitate for about a second / maybe 1.5, like a spark cut of a blocked injector. So in frequent I have not gotten too annoyed about it, but on towing yesterday it was doing it way more (more load on the engine), and on filling up 2/3d's of way to where I was going the light then came on after filling it up. I'm thinking injector or maybe a coil pack? Anyway will book it on."

Just feel I'll be arse raped at Volvo..... and if it is something easily done myself.....

[antonys60r]

If you want a trip round the m25 to jcn 19. I'll plug the car in for free.

[jellison]

Hi Anthony, that is on my way home from Work! Chiswick to Woking!

When is good for you? Drop me a PM please.

[LeeT5]

My money's on an air leak.

[antonys60r]

Hi Anthony, that is on my way home from Work! Chiswick to Woking!

When is good for you? Drop me a PM please.

Pm sent

[htomi]

Get it diagnosed properly with VIDA. Otherwise you'll throwing money into a pit. Could be an air leak, broken vacuum hose, or the TCV is dying.... or anything else....

[antonys60r]

I have Vida so I can diagnose it properly

[htomi]

:B_thumb:

[antonys60r]

I've had it for about 4 years or so . It has saved me a fortune and is a godsend on these cars ! I wouldn't be without it.

[htomi]

Well said. Its a must have tool to have.

[jellison]

Popped round to Anthony's (and it was happening a fair bit on that run), other times it might not happen once. Plugged it into the Vida, Fuel Pressure Sensor.

Many thanks Anthony. Order a Vida yesterday.

I was going to get via PFS where I get most bits but the chap there Jamie, is very good at saying if you are wasting your money on a certain part. i.e. the official price for that OEM part from them is 216 quid!! He said to look about for other places to get the same thing, with a few pointers (and in the end taking the Turbo pipe and beauty cover off to get at the Bosch no. on it (8699449) I got it from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-0261230110-0261230108-FUEL-PRESSURE-SENSOR-Land-Rover-Volvo-31272730/122653157428?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D46150%26meid%3D414f7023efa644f 58b7766aaf0e90d6c%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D 12%26sd%3D122603629054&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

Getting cambelt for it as looks like not been done (90kmiles), Anthony said this should be a 90k or 10 year which ever is soonest, which is why it was odd on going through all paperwork (and no sticker under bonnet) saying it had been done. But OEM package for this will go on in next week or 2. The reader did say one cam was out by5.8 degs (Anthony said tolerance was 6 degs), so will get this looked at when cambelt changed, maybe a tooth out(?) most likely a tooth out!? Might perk it up a tad if blob on.

Tried the wheels I bought for my T5 (and did not let go with the car), new to me after refurb and new tyres (Goodyear Eagle F1's) 235/45/17's.
317983179931800 They "just" fouled the calipers front and rear, so will get some of those Eibach spacer I think Lee mentioned (5mm will get them easily clearing). Be interesting to see if they are a tad more compliant than the 18's (even on soft the damping on ridges and potholes is very Audi like (not that bad obviously!!)). Something for the winter.

[jellison]

A quick calculation on what Volvo would have charged for the diagnosis of the hesitation. 120+ vat to just plug the reader in (then only if the hesitation had happened on the last run on the car, would it show up), then 216 for the part(!), then say 30 mins to fit (60 +vat). Equals £432. Why would ANYONE take their car to a Volvo main dealer...

This will have actually cost me 60 quid (assuming you have the reader), which going forward I will have.

[abdul]

How much is the code reader

[abdul]

And where can I get one thanks

[htomi]

And where can I get one thanks

Nobody will give you links as its not allowed on this forum.
May the 'g'force be with you:smile:

[LeeT5]

A quick calculation on what Volvo would have charged for the diagnosis of the hesitation. 120+ vat to just plug the reader in (then only if the hesitation had happened on the last run on the car, would it show up), then 216 for the part(!), then say 30 mins to fit (60 +vat). Equals £432. Why would ANYONE take their car to a Volvo main dealer...

This will have actually cost me 60 quid (assuming you have the reader), which going forward I will have.

Are you in the AA?

If you are....do you have BRC (Breakdown repair cover)?

If so, you could take your car to the dealer, relax.....have a coffee (latte) or 3!, read a newspaper and sit in all the new cars and breath in deeply the fresh smell of clean leather.....smiling to yourself that the AA will be paying for the cost of the repair, in full!
All it will cost you is £35 excess! That's cheaper than your £60 and without you having to own a DTC reader :B_thumb:

[antonys60r]

Over the 7 years I've owned my R 4 different dealers have worked on it and only one of them was any good and that was Ray Chapman in Yorkshire. One dealer who was supposed to he an R specialist fitted the wrong spark plugs.
Hence I have Vida and no more main dealers.

[jellison]

Not in AA. Green Flag. Lee, you do seem to have this not paying much at the Dealer down pat, but I don't really see many others able to replicate your paying a much smaller %age of their fee. I'll stick to the reader and a local garage I trust. I personally just think they are charging the huge amounts to cover big expensive buildings and huge staffing levels, simple maths to cover all that. Does not mean they are better mechanic's, tough they do have access to more specialist tools for the more fiddly / model specific jobs.

I like the fact I am not paying them anything when I can do a repair for 60 quid, when it could cost over 400 at a dealer!

Reader is a google away, just search Volvo Vida ebay - loads of people selling. They are in the 55 to 70 quid range.

[htomi]

Over the 7 years I've owned my R 4 different dealers have worked on it and only one of them was any good and that was Ray Chapman in Yorkshire. One dealer who was supposed to he an R specialist fitted the wrong spark plugs.
Hence I have Vida and no more main dealers.
Similar experience here with the local dealership. I gave up on them when I was told their master tech would need to have help from an engineer from Volvo Sweden to logon remotely and troubleshoot why the DRL cannot be turned on my R..... went home and 10 mins later viola.....DRL on.....

[LeeT5]

Not in AA. Green Flag. Lee, you do seem to have this not paying much at the Dealer down pat, but I don't really see many others able to replicate your paying a much smaller %age of their fee. I'll stick to the reader and a local garage I trust. I personally just think they are charging the huge amounts to cover big expensive buildings and huge staffing levels, simple maths to cover all that. Does not mean they are better mechanic's, tough they do have access to more specialist tools for the more fiddly / model specific jobs.

I like the fact I am not paying them anything when I can do a repair for 60 quid, when it could cost over 400 at a dealer!

Reader is a google away, just search Volvo Vida ebay - loads of people selling. They are in the 55 to 70 quid range.

You wanna know how? I'll tell you how!

My first Volvo I bought was a 1990(H) 440GLT which I bought from my local dealer for £8000 (trade in).
Since then I've owned 8 Volvos from 440's, 850's and 2 V70R's (P1 & P2).
I have remained semi loyal to my local dealer since, only really going there for work requiring software, expensive Hardware/Software and the occasional service for FREE software updates and any work/parts replacement where the cost is less than £500.

After a year of ownership on my Laser Blue V70R P1, I paid a one off £99 for lifetime ownership into what Lipscomb call the 'Plus 4 club'. It is transferable.

This entitles me to 25% discount on standard labour rate + 12% off parts. I also get 50% off MOT's . Couple to that my AA BRC, which pays for labour, VAT and parts up to and including £500 of ANY invoice.
Due to my loyalty with Lipscomb Volvo I have seen, in past invoices, a discount on the labour by as much as 55% and in most cases in and around 33% (Dealer discression).

So, when I take my car to the Dealer I automatically get a minimum 25% off labour, this brings it down to a paletable £90/h or less, from their standard £120/h. Then the AA pay for any bill, once agreed, up to £500. Anything over that and I cover it.

As you can see, I therefore get Dealer level service with good Technicians on first name terms, using the correct tools, correct software at a price that most local Indies offer. Don't get me wrong, in some cases it's prevalent for me to have the work done elsewhere or do it myself, but in most cases I get a good deal and it always pays to stay on the right side of your local Dealer and refrain from jumping on the band wagon, slagging your Dealers off and tarring them with the same brush.
I have a good rapport with two of the Master Techs and the Workshop manager and I've known one of the Service managers since 1990!
You never know when you'll need to have a frank conversation with them or when you need that favour!

Saying they charge extortionate prices to cover the cost of their buildings and staff is frankly ridiculous and a little immature.

I'll agree with you on one thing though about them not always being better mechanics. We all live and learn, but I'm happy with the guys at my local Dealer and they've never f uck ed anything up of mine. Any minor mistakes have always been promtly put right with an apologie and extra's.

[jellison]

Fingers X'd the hesitation is gone. But now (could I have bought a jinxed car), when going on the throttle from idle with all the heating turned off, the heater fan fires up, lift off it stops, ease into it - on, lift off, off.................

How the hell I am going to put up with one issue after another is beyond me. Last car had nothing electrical in the whole time my father and me had it (bar I think the fly-by-wire accelerator arm needing replaced very early on).

I can't say this car has provided me with much pleasure yet in just 2.5K mile apart from having a really nice plush cabin.... Turning into a total pain the ass. I have enough sh8t with race cars breaking, don't expect problems from a bog std modern road car.

[LeeT5]

Fingers X'd the hesitation is gone. But now (could I have bought a jinxed car), when going on the throttle from idle with all the heating turned off, the heater fan fires up, lift off it stops, ease into it - on, lift off, off.................

How the hell I am going to put up with one issue after another is beyond me. Last car had nothing electrical in the whole time my father and me had it (bar I think the fly-by-wire accelerator arm needing replaced very early on).

I can't say this car has provided me with much pleasure yet in just 2.5K mile apart from having a really nice plush cabin.... Turning into a total pain the ass. I have enough sh8t with race cars breaking, don't expect problems from a bog std modern road car.

At a quick glance I'd say you have an Earth issue. You'll need a wiring diagram.

[jellison]

Where to get one of those (?) and is this then an auto electrician job?

Starting to get tired of the car now - Zero confidence in it, to the point I avoid driving it. Just want a bloody reliable (but nice) fast tow car.

Popped this up https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=2320647#post2320647

[antonys60r]

Jon . My first thought is the heater fan resistor. These cars will make you love them and hate them in equal measure.

[jellison]

Cheers. Yep from my googling I think most likely. Best wait till the Vida turns up (was hoping be here today (at work) but not yet).

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=2320670#post2320670 At least found a good guide to getting it out (can't be the fan if that sound perfect it is just that is coming on by itself when on the throttle!

If this things packs up when used for towing racer I might just have to torch it... God I love old cars - yep they go wrong, but not Rocket science to fix.

I'm sure it would give me no issues if I didn't drive it!

[jellison]

What a complete Moron!! Me that is.............

The fan stuff was the turbo pipe coming out of the turbo. I was so keen to get the fuel sensor changed out that I did not take the cross brace out to get at the turbo / pipe clamp. Thought I had it on clamping round the both flanges, seems I did not!! And it blew off on the way home........... No power and Bigggg whooshing (with the window down) and about 70bhp.

But I do now know everything about changing out a heater fan and resistor!

Been a bad few weeks, my rebuilt V8 race engine has to come apart again - grrrrrr, ran a red light with trailer on way to last race, fine or a safety awareness letter when in tonite and then the worry about the above. Feel sooo much better now. Wine o'clock now :)

[LeeT5]

Fingers X'd the hesitation is gone. But now (could I have bought a jinxed car), when going on the throttle from idle with all the heating turned off, the heater fan fires up, lift off it stops, ease into it - on, lift off, off.................

How the hell I am going to put up with one issue after another is beyond me. Last car had nothing electrical in the whole time my father and me had it (bar I think the fly-by-wire accelerator arm needing replaced very early on).

I can't say this car has provided me with much pleasure yet in just 2.5K mile apart from having a really nice plush cabin.... Turning into a total pain the ass. I have enough sh8t with race cars breaking, don't expect problems from a bog std modern road car.


What a complete Moron!! Me that is.............

The fan stuff was the turbo pipe coming out of the turbo. I was so keen to get the fuel sensor changed out that I did not take the cross brace out to get at the turbo / pipe clamp. Thought I had it on clamping round the both flanges, seems I did not!! And it blew off on the way home........... No power and Bigggg whooshing (with the window down) and about 70bhp.

But I do now know everything about changing out a heater fan and resistor!

Been a bad few weeks, my rebuilt V8 race engine has to come apart again - grrrrrr, ran a red light with trailer on way to last race, fine or a safety awareness letter when in tonite and then the worry about the above. Feel sooo much better now. Wine o'clock now :)

How on earth can you confuse an interior Fan with an external boost leak? :hilarious

Glad it's now sorted. :wink:

[jellison]

It started very quite and got worse - but yes I see your point!

But, you would have thought this would be the end of it!

Was expecting a trouble free drive to go stay with a mate and then watch some racing at Snetterton (I cancelled my entry). All fine (80miles) till Duxford (last Airshow of the year on), pulled over for paracetmol for a headache and wife to then drive it. She starts it up and the bloody engine check light comes back on!

It is not doing that hesitating now, so presume not the same issue and drove fine the rest of the way.

But on starting the following day the engine then hunting really badly during that weird start thing these R do, but then once at idle all seemed to drive fine, but check light still on! Vida should be with me today / tomorrow, plus a new cam belt kit.

I am a bit jittery about this thing as the only time the T5 light came on as went it went into limp mode after 155k miles and then 3 weeks later it was unfortunately laid to rest (after huge expenditure to try to fix - I'll tell that story shortly).... A very sad day:(

[LeeT5]

I wouldn't worry too much mate. It's not uncommon for one issue to mask another and the point I'm trying to make is that, IF you had read the fault codes prior to discovering the Turbo hose leak, you would of probably had a list of fault codes. So you note them down, try to trouble shoot and fix (In your case, the boost hose was probably obvious to the trained eye :rolleyes:) then you'd have cleared the fault codes and continued road test or just getting on with things, until the next issue.

Then EML comes on, like it does now! So, armed with your list of fault codes, you re-read the faults and note the codes. Then you'd compare and find that either one or two faults have gone and maybe one other fault code has appeared. Either way, as you fault find and fix then the list of codes will get shorter!

With the aid of VIDA, you'd be able to properly troubleshoot the fault codes.

When you get an opportunity, can you post the fault codes here for us ALL to see? This may help others in the future along with your findings.

As I already mentioned in another post somewhere else, it may be prudent to get a smoke leak test done on your car as this will likely expose a few leaks and save you many weeks or months chasing your tail.
If you think your car drives nicely now, you wait until you've fixed the issues, then you'll really feel the difference!

[jellison]

Smoke leak test? Never heard of that.

Yep once the Vida is loaded (have to get it running on Win 8 - have the URL doc on that - if not I'll get an old Win7 pc just for this). Yep will write down codes and let you guys know and hopefully work through.

Only one at Anthony's was the fuel pressure sensor. I can only think another will now be there (the odd hunting on start up).

Car drive OK now. Not a patch on the old T5. Hoping it will get to that level (i.e. just like any car you jump into and everything works in a very smooth and fuss free way. Only one felt like it had a proper cable going to the engine to run the MAF / ECU, this one somehow feels more like when you are using the throttle, you can feel the "brain" actually working out every minute movement of the pedal, not natural (don't get me wrong it is fine), just needs to be utterly smooth and feel like it is a cable down there!

If only it had a carb! Hopefully Vida waiting at home.

Wife hit a pheasant at about 60 just past Snett. Total disintegration................:)

[jellison]

Vida - turned up. Will the unit and a cd. Hope this is all I need.

The manual for these you find online are endless i.e. http://www.autoscaners.ru/data/volvo%20dice/VIDA-Help-en-GB.pdf did look easy when Anthony plugged in his to my R. Hopefully straight forward. Mind the depth of some of this stuff is mind boggling, hopefully it is all obvious!

[LeeT5]

Vida - turned up. Will the unit and a cd. Hope this is all I need.

The manual for these you find online are endless i.e. http://www.autoscaners.ru/data/volvo%20dice/VIDA-Help-en-GB.pdf did look easy when Anthony plugged in his to my R. Hopefully straight forward. Mind the depth of some of this stuff is mind boggling, hopefully it is all obvious!

If you need help with VIDA, pm me and I'll walk you through it.

I'm certain you'll struggle with it at first. Make sure your laptop has auto updates disabled otherwise it can cause havok with your VIDA and stop it from working. Once installed and working never allow it to update or download any web page updates!! Just dont connect it to Wifi or Ethernet.

[antonys60r]

Vida is not too bad to use. It's quite logical really . As lee said and I said to you when you came round. No updates on the laptop after Vida is installed and you'll be fine. The laptop I use is solely for the car and nothing else.

[jellison]

Vida is not too bad to use. It's quite logical really . As lee said and I said to you when you came round. No updates on the laptop after Vida is installed and you'll be fine. The laptop I use is solely for the car and nothing else.Cheers Anthony. Just trying on the Win 8 pc. Absolutely zero chance. On the setup page it very quickly come up with a warning that says a bunch of stuff not found (as Win8 ) and will not continue to install!

I'll get on ebay tonite / tomorrow and look for a refurb laptop (did a google last week as thought this might be the case), 40-50 quid should get me a suitable one.

Have to put the engine hoist in the back on Thursday and pull the V8 out of the Griff Friday. Might be another week or 2 before I get to read the codes then.318033180431805

[antonys60r]

That's exactly what I did regards the laptop. Vida can be a little fussy with the install. V8 in the griff now that's an engine . Can't beat the sound of a v8 !

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I never managed to get Vida installed on XP, had an error about some particular file missing, which I think was to do with the OS ratger than Vida. Started rebuilding the laptop from scratch to try again but never saw it through and both laptop and Dice have been gathering dust since! So will be interesting to see how it goes. I really must set aside some time to try it again.

[antonys60r]

My laptop for Vida runs on xp . I had to completely wipe it and reinstall xp. After that Vida installed perfectly 1st time . If anything is not spot on then Vida won't install.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Mine was a fresh XP install as it was originally a Win7 laptop and I bought a copy of XP pro specifically for Vida. I did run all the updates after installing XP though so maybe that was an issue. I'll try it with no updates next time, just a fresh install.

[jellison]

Just got a Win 7 refurbed one on the way. Fingers X'd. Looking at the shear amount of files it has to unzip and load I can see this could be fun...........

So what are Volvo doing staying on Win7 forever?

Now if the Volvo had a V8 :) http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/07/intercontimental-missile-volvo-v8-wagon-of-fun/

Now that would tow well.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Er, correct me if I'm wrong, but
does it NOT work on Win7? I mean, that's the whole reason I bought a copy of XP Pro and rebuilt my Win7 laptop!

[antonys60r]

The later versions do . I think it's 2014d and on work on win 7

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Hmmm, interesting. Pretty sure mine is 2014D. And I'm sure the guidance both from the ebay listing and subsequent online searches said it had to be Win Xp. At the time I was trying to avoid having to buy a copy of XP and the extra work installing etc so I did do a fair bit of googling. If that's wrong and it does actually work on Win7 then that's interesting and it'll give me another option for getting it to work. Does it have to be a particular version of Win7? I think the copy I've got is just Home Edition.

[antonys60r]

I Think it's the pro version. I know it has to be xp pro, So I would think it's win 7 pro.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

God, I'm a massive fanny! (this might already been widely known and I'm just proving it yet again :doh:).

It wasn't XP Pro I got, it was indeed W7 Pro. No idea why I had it in my head that I'd bought and installed a copy of XP Pro. Please totally dismiss all of my above useless - total ££££££££ - posts on the matter.

Good luck with the install Jon, let us know how it goes.

[LeeT5]

My VIDA is installed on 2013D with windows XP Pro. If you use 2014D, then you need Win 7 Pro.

Home additions do not work with VIDA!

[jellison]

Hmm I bet the pc I have just bought (think the VIDA I have is the 14D) will not even have the right Win 7 on it!

Hopefully hear tomorrow.

My car looks like (now the engine light is back on again) it is now running very rich at the tail-pipes. I'm guessing it might be the O2 / Lambda sensor on the frits. Let hope it get me to Swindon from London tonite with my engine hoist in the back. Gonna put the V8 in it (nice big carb, no electronic crap....).

[htomi]

My VIDA is installed on 2013D with windows XP Pro. If you use 2014D, then you need Win 7 Pro.

Home additions do not work with VIDA!

Correct it needs to PRO or ENTERPRISE version.

[htomi]

Hmm I bet the pc I have just bought (think the VIDA I have is the 14D) will not even have the right Win 7 on it!

If you have plenty of RAM and 4 cores (CPU) to spare, then install it via virtual machine. Less hassle if something goes sideways ;)

[jellison]

Checking pc on its way is Pro or Ent. Maybe my IT bods can slide in a Pro / Ent for me if not. PC will just be for this.

[jellison]

Seems pc just turned up and it 7 Pro. I'll try to load on Friday night or Saturday. Need it all 100% before IPD exhaust and remap. Then want to forget about it. Just drive the thing............

[jellison]

Software loaded.

On the Vehicle profile, it does not like me popping in the VIN, so then worked through the Model - V70 (00-08), Model Year - 2005, Engine for these seems to be B524T4, but then on transmissions I have a bunch of choices, AW50/51 AWD, AW 55-50/51 SN, M56, M58, M66, M66 AWD - which one? Car is the 6 Speed manual. Steering obviously RHD, then Body style I have 5DRS S.R or 5DRS WO S.R (5 door with or without something begining SR!! Any idea which.

I try M66 AWD and 5DRS S.R and try then hit OK.

That did not work - get a pop-up Message from webpage. Could not find a path to XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Done a reboot and back in. The Video showed a top box of having to select the Dice tool from the Dropdown. But if I plug this into the USB noting happens. Doe it need power?

Does it have to be plugged into the car when doing this - i.e. car gives it power?

I presume I have to do the DICE connection, but do I need to do all the vehicle selection stuff?

plugged the Dice into the car with the ignition on first click and all the right lights seem to come on - flashing green plus, blue Bluetooth one and orange vehicle interface status.

But Vida Vehicle profile in the communication tool box still does not come up with the DICE in the dropdown.

This has to be the most annoying bit of software and hardware ever, and I work with Software!

How to get the DICE to appear in the Communication tool dropdown?

HELP..........................

[LeeT5]

You’re is M66.

With or without SR is Sun Roof!
You need to check in device manager that you have the DICE software installed and it’s working correctly.
When you boot your laptop, do not open VADIS until the icon changes from yellow to green in your taskbar.

[jellison]

You’re is M66.

With or without SR is Sun Roof!
You need to check in device manager that you have the DICE software installed and it’s working correctly.
When you boot your laptop, do not open VADIS until the icon changes from yellow to green in your taskbar.

OK on Sunroof (I have one!!).

The DICE doesn't appear in the device manager - tried with it plugged directly into the usb but not the car and then plugged both in the USB and in the car. But it didn't appear either time - have I missed a step?

[jellison]

Found this issue on Swedespeed forum, seem USB side of the dice box is not talking to the pc / software. Tits!

[antonys60r]

Jon replied to your email

[LeeT5]

Found this issue on Swedespeed forum, seem USB side of the dice box is not talking to the pc / software. Tits!

On the VIDA DVD that you were supplied, have a look in the folders and see if you can find the drivers for the DICE. Try installing them from device manager and search the DVD.

There is a utility on the VIDA program to test the DICE unit.
For it to communicate, ALL the lights on DICE must be lit or flashing.
Also, the DICE must be plugged into the car and the ignition must be in pos.2, otherwise the CAN network will not be fully powered up and communication will not be complete.

If you can't get it working, I will pm you my number and try to help you. I knew you wouldn't have it plain sailing....I had major issues trying to get mine working.

What version of Internet explorer are you using?

[LeeT5]

Software loaded.

On the Vehicle profile, it does not like me popping in the VIN, so then worked through the Model - V70 (00-08), Model Year - 2005, Engine for these seems to be B524T4, but then on transmissions I have a bunch of choices, AW50/51 AWD, AW 55-50/51 SN, M56, M58, M66, M66 AWD - which one? Car is the 6 Speed manual. Steering obviously RHD, then Body style I have 5DRS S.R or 5DRS WO S.R (5 door with or without something begining SR!! Any idea which.

I try M66 AWD and 5DRS S.R and try then hit OK.

That did not work - get a pop-up Message from webpage. Could not find a path to XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Done a reboot and back in. The Video showed a top box of having to select the Dice tool from the Dropdown. But if I plug this into the USB noting happens. Doe it need power?

Does it have to be plugged into the car when doing this - i.e. car gives it power?

I presume I have to do the DICE connection, but do I need to do all the vehicle selection stuff?

plugged the Dice into the car with the ignition on first click and all the right lights seem to come on - flashing green plus, blue Bluetooth one and orange vehicle interface status.

But Vida Vehicle profile in the communication tool box still does not come up with the DICE in the dropdown.

This has to be the most annoying bit of software and hardware ever, and I work with Software!

How to get the DICE to appear in the Communication tool dropdown?

HELP..........................

If DICE is NOT shown in the dropdown, then either the drivers are not installed or fully working OR DICE is not powered up.

[htomi]

Please make sure you follow the installation steps: "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puDtmo03CAQ" to the letter.
The patch file is the same for 2014 A and D version.
Same as before: If you have plenty of RAM and 4 cores (CPU) to spare, then install it via virtual machine. Less hassle if something goes sideways...

[Ric@rdo]

I used this topic to install 2014D on my Windows 10 laptop. I have windows 10 Home and it works perfectly ;)

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?242441-Volvo-VIDA-2014D-and-Windows-10-Pro

Since this is my "daily" laptop, it updates itself automatically. Last week it stopped recognizing my Dice. I did some search and with the info found on this topic, I made it work again.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?348361-FIX-to-DICE-not-connecting-(2014D-Win-7-Pro-64bit-IE9)

[jellison]

On the VIDA DVD that you were supplied, have a look in the folders and see if you can find the drivers for the DICE. Try installing them from device manager and search the DVD.

There is a utility on the VIDA program to test the DICE unit.
For it to communicate, ALL the lights on DICE must be lit or flashing.
Also, the DICE must be plugged into the car and the ignition must be in pos.2, otherwise the CAN network will not be fully powered up and communication will not be complete.

If you can't get it working, I will pm you my number and try to help you. I knew you wouldn't have it plain sailing....I had major issues trying to get mine working.

What version of Internet explorer are you using?Thanks Lee, tried the Device Manager stuff. No joy then saw your bit on the 4 lights. The USB under no circumstances ever flashes, in car on key turn 1 or 2 or just in house on 12v power. Seems it is stuffed. Have mailed seller saying I need a new one pronto.

Anyidea what the hunting on startup could be and then occasion dodgy ideal, and sooted tail pipe? I know this is old school diagnosis but ha this is how proper mechanics have been doing for years.

Another think about hating to pay for main dealer, all they are doing is plugging in one of these dedicated tools and bosh, this is the issue. No abiilty to actually work it out. They just take the part f the shelf and bolt it on and run the tool again, all for 150 quid per hour.

Thanks all.

Anthony I'll mail you back re a good time, birthday today so out, maybe in the week might be best, I leave work at 3;40 in Chiswick.

[LeeT5]

Thanks Lee, tried the Device Manager stuff. No joy then saw your bit on the 4 lights. The USB under no circumstances ever flashes, in car on key turn 1 or 2 or just in house on 12v power. Seems it is stuffed. Have mailed seller saying I need a new one pronto.

Anyidea what the hunting on startup could be and then occasion dodgy ideal, and sooted tail pipe? I know this is old school diagnosis but ha this is how proper mechanics have been doing for years.

Another think about hating to pay for main dealer, all they are doing is plugging in one of these dedicated tools and bosh, this is the issue. No abiilty to actually work it out. They just take the part f the shelf and bolt it on and run the tool again, all for 150 quid per hour.

Thanks all.

Anthony I'll mail you back re a good time, birthday today so out, maybe in the week might be best, I leave work at 3;40 in Chiswick.

The USB status should blink yellow when communicating with laptop then go solid yellow once connected.
If it's not lighting up then it's likely because of a driver issue on the laptop not the DICE itself.

[jellison]

USB light never comes on under any conditions.

[LeeT5]

USB light never comes on under any conditions.

Then it's the drivers on your laptop not the DICE.

(Just unscrew the endcap from DICE, where the USB lead goes in, and make sure the USB cable is plugged in properly and all the way in!)

[jellison]

On of the first things tried. Have mailed supplier for another one.

Wasted 5hours on this Friday / sat. Went though all the stuff on drivers too.

[LeeT5]

I had the same issue when I bought mine.
Your wasting your time getting a new DICE.

[htomi]

There is a good chance the OS and drivers are already corrupted. Its a nightmare to remove all registry keys properly after uninstalling the product, especially if you're don't know what to look for.
Also good chance to make more damage than solution and you'll end up with toasted OS which would require a full clean install.

Instead of the above pain and as I mentioned several times previously,
1. Please download the vmware player (free: https://www.vmware.com/products/workstation-player.html) and
2. Install a clean WIN 7 PRO/ULTIMATE x64 version as virtual machine
3. Make sure, you don't install any windows or Internet Explorer update!
4. Then follow the VIDA installation steps: "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puDtmo03CAQ" to the letter.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Instead of the above pain and as I mentioned several times previously,
1. Please download the vmware player (free: https://www.vmware.com/products/workstation-player.html) and[B]


How much work is involved in installing and setting up a virtual machine, for the layman who has never done this before? What are the benefits compared to having the OS locally installed on the machine, if it's a laptop dedicated specifically for VIDA use (i.e. if you have to reinstall the OS anyway, at any time for some reason, is there a benefit in only having to do it on the VM rather than the physical laptop)?

[htomi]

How much work is involved in installing and setting up a virtual machine, for the layman who has never done this before? What are the benefits compared to having the OS locally installed on the machine, if it's a laptop dedicated specifically for VIDA use (i.e. if you have to reinstall the OS anyway, at any time for some reason, is there a benefit in only having to do it on the VM rather than the physical laptop)?

To create a VM takes few clicks and max 30 sec. The next step is Installing an on OS which usually 30 mins (obviously it will depend on the host hardware)
As the name suggests its a virtual environment. No hardware drivers needs to be installed. Works 'out of the box' immediately.
Isolated from the Host OS.

In a nutshell:
Cons: Losing disk space
Pros: Takes away the pain to re-install everything from scratch e.g. device drivers, configure and many more which usually takes few hours from start to finish.
You can save the VM image to a safe (preferably external location) and re-deploy at your convenience at any time within minutes.

[jellison]

Update.

Popped round Anthony's today. Before what occurred, once more a huge thanks to Anthony.

Plugged in his Vida to see31808.

From this we presumed it was likely a dirty MAF sensor. tried to get the security bolts off but gave up (more on this later). So took off the filter box cover to find the dirtiest filter you can imagine!
31809 Cleaned this out by banging on the side of the house(!) and binned the foam cover (clean under there, but the other hald filthy). The car had a supposed Volvo service just before I bought it (I have all bills), why the hell would you not replace this! So on the list.

Fired car back up a few times and the red top left ECM? code was back to normal! And the Engine check light is no longer on now :)

Next thing tried my pc / Vida with Anthony's DICE, boom, as soon as plugged in the Driver load message comes up and on starting the Vida software the Dice IP was in the Communication list - whoop whoop. So next step, pop my Dice into my pc / Vida after a restart of the app, yep it now sees my Dices IP in the list and runs the diagnostics. Was pushed for time so had to leave to get back to work, but really need a tutorial in this thing and how to reset stuff and read it all, but will play about.

Anyway once hole decided to get the MAF sensor out - bought a pack of security tools, but bugger me they are 6 point and the bloody one on the maf is 5. Beggars belief (£18 quid wasted - will try for a refund tomorrow!). So pulled the maf out by loosening the pipe at the back and the airbox. What and ass of a job. But once out drowned the maf sensor bits and bobs with the MAF cleaner (had previously bought for wifes old Puma - now that has NEVER gone wrong).

Popped back together, fire-up and will drive to work tomorrow hopefully still no engine light (none when above done) and will run better.

Next thing, anyone know where i can get the poppers to hold the front bumper onto the front valance (without going to Volvo - are they the same as the door card ones? - hitting the Pheasant seems to have exploded all 6 of these off the car!

31810

Roll on a few months trouble free life then IPD cat back and remap. I will be getting that cold start rev up to 2k then drop back to idle thing turned off (for the cat warming I believe) and might add 100 - 150 to the 750rpm idle, pity the Vida can't do this!

[LeeT5]

I'm sorry to say that the pictures you've posted are way too small! I can't make them out.

Regards the filter.....it wasn't that dirty mate, so I wouldn't get too excited about it making any difference.
The front bumper clips I'd only get from Volvo. If you get them elsewhere, they'll probably not fit properly. Good news on the DICE....I told you it was a driver issue!

The sockets you require to undo the MAF are 'Security Torques'. Make sure you buy a quality set, as a cheap set may not be a perfect fit and you'll damage the screws.

Can you please post a bigger picture of the fault code list? I will then be able to compare to my car when I had boost leak issues, as I feel you do! Do not be led up the garden path with MAF fault codes....they don't mean your MAF is at fault :wink:

MAF operation should be check using actual values, then you'll know if it's ok. At idle and operating temp you should see around 10-12 kg/s. limits are in VIDA.

[jellison]

I'm sorry to say that the pictures you've posted are way too small! I can't make them out.

Regards the filter.....it wasn't that dirty mate, so I wouldn't get too excited about it making any difference.
The front bumper clips I'd only get from Volvo. If you get them elsewhere, they'll probably not fit properly. Good news on the DICE....I told you it was a driver issue!

The sockets you require to undo the MAF are 'Security Torques'. Make sure you buy a quality set, as a cheap set may not be a perfect fit and you'll damage the screws.

Can you please post a bigger picture of the fault code list? I will then be able to compare to my car when I had boost leak issues, as I feel you do! Do not be led up the garden path with MAF fault codes....they don't mean your MAF is at fault :wink:

MAF operation should be check using actual values, then you'll know if it's ok. At idle and operating temp you should see around 10-12 kg/s. limits are in VIDA.See zoomed in ones. I suppose I should redo now my Vida is working, but the red ECM one was back to a green / normal colour I think (and the light on dash no longer comes on). Not sure on the details post the above as had to shoot off. I'd hope it is alot better post ripping my forearms up getting MAF out to clean.

I did not think MAF was at fault as such, but did suspect it was dirty. Temp in kg/s?

3181131812

The sockets (security tools) I got were 6 point (all they sold), the ones on the MAF are v.small (~20's or less), but the issue is they are 5 cornered! not 6. I'll see if they sell 5 corners online, but as I pulled the whole thing out and able to properly clean, might just take back the set and do without (never need before), think I did the same on wifes car, rather than risk the screws getting mangled just pulled the whole unit out.

Anyway I'll warm the car up tonite (take the nice reliable Puma on the 45mile round trip most days - almost double the mpg).

I'll order 6 poppers to hold the top of the bumper from Volvo.

[htomi]

Listen to Lee, get those plastic clips from Volvo and buy a at least couple of spares. € 1 for a piece....

MAF readings should be ∼14 kg/h at IDLE, engine must be at operation temp, AC off, wheels straight.
Also I agree, MAF code does not mean that the unit is faulty.
It means there is a discrepancy (higher than expected range) between measured values and nominal values, therefore its listed as a fault.

[htomi]

For the ECM 212 and 216 codes:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?204241-Diagnosing-fuel-trim-problem-on-06-VR

[jellison]

I think we checked the MAF idle numbers (before cleaned were within the parameters or the Vida), will check in next day or so.

Ordered clips (in stock).

[antonys60r]

The maf parameters at idle warm engine a.c. off are 12 and 20kg/h. The maf is just within limits . This was before it was cleaned and with a dirty air filter. Now Jon has his Vida up and running it's possible to check the maf data again

[antonys60r]

The maf was reading 12.4 kg/h. We couldn't clean the maf at mine as Jon was pushed for time and I didn't want to damage the security torx bolts trying to rush.

[htomi]

That MAF reading is a bit low according to Contrast (Gustav).
As said above it needs to be closer to 14kg/h. The last time - month ago when I had tested mine it was 13.9 - 14 kg/h - engine at operational temp, AC off, wheels straight.

I would recommend to continue live log MAF readings and boost levels and post results here.

[jellison]

Live Log?

[jellison]

Run it round the block - feels alot better now maf cleaned, feels pretty strong.

The horrible hunting on the cold start cycle is gone and no ECM / Engine warning light.

As for using Vida - still utterly clueless. I get to the read vehicle bit and it does that, but what next to see anything of use? tried all the tabs with car running and just with key in position 2 and not running none of the tabs seem to have anything about showing live data. Obviously not watching Anthony when doing it at his.

Not bloody obvious...

31813

Just give me a TR6 cylinder head to remove and I am happy......

[LeeT5]

That MAF reading is a bit low according to Contrast (Gustav).
As said above it needs to be closer to 14kg/h. The last time - month ago when I had tested mine it was 13.9 - 14 kg/h - engine at operational temp, AC off, wheels straight.

I would recommend to continue live log MAF readings and boost levels and post results here.

I've no idea what my MAF readings are as it's been a while since I checked them.
When I get a spare 20 mins I'll plug in and have a butchers.

Jellison....Can you please sort out your picture issue before you post anymore! They are utterly useless mate as too small.

[LeeT5]

Run it round the block - feels alot better now maf cleaned, feels pretty strong.

The horrible hunting on the cold start cycle is gone and no ECM / Engine warning light.

As for using Vida - still utterly clueless. I get to the read vehicle bit and it does that, but what next to see anything of use? tried all the tabs with car running and just with key in position 2 and not running none of the tabs seem to have anything about showing live data. Obviously not watching Anthony when doing it at his.

Not bloody obvious...

31813

Just give me a TR6 cylinder head to remove and I am happy......

I would strongly advise that you don't plug VIDA into your car until you're proficient at using it. It would be vey easy to enable/disable something and not realise, then not have a clue how to revert back if it goes tit's up!

Take the laptop indoors and sit down with a cuppa and some biscuits and have a good play with it indoors, away from the car. Learn what each tab means and find out where stuff is in VIDA. Otherwise, it will feel like a total waste of money and you'll shy away from using it.

[jellison]

Anthony, just pointed out that mine Vida is the 14 version and has different wording to 12 / 13 version and I should have clicked the Diagnostic tab (thought I had!). This presumably would do nothing not plugged into the car. 31815 Must have been having an off day!

ANYWAY. Drove car for a proper distance to work today and ALOT better post MAF clean. More how I thought this car should have been when I bought it 3k ago (after a full "Volvo" service). Perkier, smoother, just better all round.

[htomi]

I would strongly advise that you don't plug VIDA into your car until you're proficient at using it. It would be vey easy to enable/disable something and not realise, then not have a clue how to revert back if it goes tit's up!

Take the laptop indoors and sit down with a cuppa and some biscuits and have a good play with it indoors, away from the car. Learn what each tab means and find out where stuff is in VIDA. Otherwise, it will feel like a total waste of money and you'll shy away from using it.

+1

last post:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208215-DiCE-VIDA-gt-USERS-lt-Guide

[jellison]

I'll have a read of the Help / Diagnostic part of the doc as a start.

That bit can only be used when DICE attached to the car and pc though.

[jellison]

A month with no issues and the button gets pushed :) https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8814/120056-ss-oval-tube-catback-exhaust-2004-2007-s60r-v70r
31816
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVg7VdSfm7I

[Gold 'N' Brown]

That's a lot of dollar! Any particular reason for going with them Vs a significant saving on a custom made one? I might be able to contribute a little to the cause if you still have those solid top mounts in your drawer :-) Will PM you later this month.

[Harvey]

Have heard quite a few people say they do drone and they are very loud. on sweedspeed.

[jellison]

I think it is a good price, can't see how a custom would be less, [spoken to the guy that has done me a few systems]. On current exchange ignoring import its the same as a Jetex off the shelf.

With import tax / duty it will only be a few 100 more than a Jetex. Quality looks to me on another level. Noise likely the resonator. The two pipes through the std setup and the Jetex type might be why quiter / less drone. If you are gonna have a remap and an expensive exhaust might as well hear it!

The 3 1/8" bore will really help with the remap (not going with the down-pipe for now) so should make up fro some of the lack of that. If to much can replace the resonator with a small round silencer (custom). Have this on TR6 (big box out back plus another to swap in and out as need be - straight through or small silencer of same length) for different race tracks with low db limits, most fine with the straight through but some like Zandvoort need to pop in the second small silencer (takes about a minute), really knocks the noise back.

Might change top mount, but think raising tickover from ~770ish to 870-900 I think will get it away from the real buzz zone.

Noise is not a bad thing (partly joking).


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQwocrV4III

[Markyb]

I must admit I have considered this exhaust but I just get put off with import duty and if anything was wrong with it etc

[LeeT5]

That's a lot of dollar! Any particular reason for going with them Vs a significant saving on a custom made one? I might be able to contribute a little to the cause if you still have those solid top mounts in your drawer :-) Will PM you later this month.

It actually works out the same price as my custom exhaust but only because it's on sale! At the full price of $895 it's a rip off, IMH.


Have heard quite a few people say they do drone and they are very loud. on sweedspeed.

yeah, I'd agree with what Harvey said.

[jellison]

It is the actual price though that counts, they are mostly selling to US market. So prices are really pretty good.

Should be it till I order the exhaust. Hopefully that should get it to about 310. They seem to make pretty close to std from a few web checks (295) https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-carpool/volvo-v70r-ph-carpool/35169. So if a map add's 40 to that (pipe and map added ~65 to the T5), that will be plenty for me (do not want to push it).

Pulled in next to new GT3 this morning and the noise that made on startup, made me think, lets do this!

If too much easy to quiten down. The TVR back in 2005 cost almost as much as it was worth to convert (~13k no labour in there - not sure I'd do it again - though it is a very common mod for TVR's now).
You never get that money back but ha serious fun! First LS one converted. It was way to loud (NASCAR!) when done so sleeved the centre box with more perforated pipes than straight.

Cam belt (never done from receipts!) and rear brakes (from the Brembo kit recommended) on Tues (was going to do myself but too much car stuff lately!), plus the adjustable handbrake thingy in place of the solid bar at same time.

Should be it till I order the exhaust. Hopefully that should get it to about 310.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

It is the actual price though that counts, they are mostly selling to US market. So prices are really pretty good.


So what is the actual price in GBP inc shipment? Cos I just had a look and tried their shipping calculator and it came out as between $4xx and $580 to the UK! That's the shipping price, NOT the total price!

Then you've got import tax to factor in too.

I think you're far better off researching decent exhaust builders in the rough area. There's quite literally no benefit I can see from going with the IPD system except the badge and the oval tubing (some tangible benefit but mostly novelty IMO). Prices obviously vary from place to place depending on the quality of workmanship, whether they buy the boxes in or make them in house, type of SS used, whether MIG or TIG, mandrel bent or crush bent etc. There's a guy local to me that was recommended by a member here who had a system done for his S60R, his company is Originial Fabrications (deliberate misspelling as his name is Nial) and he does custom systems and general fabrication all from scratch. Beautiful quality stuff. He quoted me, IIRC something like £500 for a 3" cat back with no resonator, just a back box, and twin slash cut pipes to look like R tailpipes.

[LeeT5]

So what is the actual price in GBP inc shipment? Cos I just had a look and tried their shipping calculator and it came out as between $4xx and $580 to the UK! That's the shipping price, NOT the total price!

Then you've got import tax to factor in too.

I think you're far better off researching decent exhaust builders in the rough area. There's quite literally no benefit I can see from going with the IPD system except the badge and the oval tubing (some tangible benefit but mostly novelty IMO). Prices obviously vary from place to place depending on the quality of workmanship, whether they buy the boxes in or make them in house, type of SS used, whether MIG or TIG, mandrel bent or crush bent etc. There's a guy local to me that was recommended by a member here who had a system done for his S60R, his company is Originial Fabrications (deliberate misspelling as his name is Nial) and he does custom systems and general fabrication all from scratch. Beautiful quality stuff. He quoted me, IIRC something like £500 for a 3" cat back with no resonator, just a back box, and twin slash cut pipes to look like R tailpipes.

I have to agree with Gold 'N' Brown here!

The import tax on that exhaust will be about £50-80. Could even be as much as £100 due to the weight and size of the box it comes in.

The best thing about cutom fabricators is they will build the exhaust to YOUR spec (within the build limitations of course) so you could have a REALLY nice, bespoke system that sounds like no other and totally unique to your car.

My custom exhaust is fully TIG welded and Mandrel bent with top grade SS and only cost £440!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I've spent an unhealthy amount of time on Youtube listening to exhaust sounds. I was doing that again just a few weeks ago as I really do need to get mine replaced and need to decide what to go for.

When you've listened to a ton of them, you get a feel for how the sound varies depending on the various changes to the setup - i.e. whether 2.5" or 3" pipework, stock DP or 3" DP, stock cat Vs race cat Vs catless, no resonator and single back box, single back box and no resonator, no resonator and no back box etc.

Personally I think I'm going to go the obnoxious route to begin with, even if it's short term. 2.5" cat back with no res and no back box. It'll be loud and gruff but what the hell, you only live once. I'll add a resonator back in if it gets on my tits. I figure best to start out loud and make it quieter from there than start off too quiet. Main thing I don't like about these engines when you have no resonator is that you get the full force of the off beat thrum at idle that can sound a little 'agricultural', whereas this is dulled with a resonator giving a softer, warmer note but still a hint of that 5 pot thrum. It's swings and roundabouts though, idle sounds worse but once you give it the beans they sound even more badass without a resonator.

It's all a matter of preference though, and I'm still not 100% sure which way to go. That's why I think you should set aside a good hour for some Youtube research and see what you think sounds best to your ears.

[LeeT5]

I've spent an unhealthy amount of time on Youtube listening to exhaust sounds. I was doing that again just a few weeks ago as I really do need to get mine replaced and need to decide what to go for.

When you've listened to a ton of them, you get a feel for how the sound varies depending on the various changes to the setup - i.e. whether 2.5" or 3" pipework, stock DP or 3" DP, stock cat Vs race cat Vs catless, no resonator and single back box, single back box and no resonator, no resonator and no back box etc.

Personally I think I'm going to go the obnoxious route to begin with, even if it's short term. 2.5" cat back with no res and no back box. It'll be loud and gruff but what the hell, you only live once. I'll add a resonator back in if it gets on my tits. I figure best to start out loud and make it quieter from there than start off too quiet. Main thing I don't like about these engines when you have no resonator is that you get the full force of the off beat thrum at idle that can sound a little 'agricultural', whereas this is dulled with a resonator giving a softer, warmer note but still a hint of that 5 pot thrum. It's swings and roundabouts though, idle sounds worse but once you give it the beans they sound even more badass without a resonator.

It's all a matter of preference though, and I'm still not 100% sure which way to go. That's why I think you should set aside a good hour for some Youtube research and see what you think sounds best to your ears.

Listening to an exhaust on your PC speakers is not the same as hearing it in real life. Just how good/bad are your speakers for one thing?

I agree with you though, it's subjective and totally a matter of personal preference.

[Ric@rdo]

There are good European exhaust brands available like TME and Ferrita. I agree that they are a bit expensive also, but they do good products.
When I was looking for an exhaust for my car, I decided to go with Ferrita because of no drone.

[don kalmar union]

I keep both Ferrita and TME exhausts in stock here in the UK.

Ferrita have now stopped making their S60R and V70R exhausts due to a very low demand.... I have just 2 V70R cat back left in stock and one d'pipe with 100 cel cat.

http://kalmar-union.com/parts/volvo-s60_s80_xc70_v70_-exhausts/

Don.

[jellison]

I have google the heck out of all systems and the only time IPD came back as droning, was via a Swedespeed thread (I think), where he said later in the thread he realised had something misaligned and once sorted out drone gone. That is not to say they are not a good bit louder than std - see below thread (theblackbox and comment with update). Also I have heard that having any catback AND the downpipe the drone will be more. Out of the two the downpipe will always be the thing likely to give drone. I can see the logic in that.

Have a read of http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?191466-Exhaust-Drone-noise and http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?166797-IPD-Oval-Tube-Exhaust-2004-2007-S60R-V70R-models

Actually the first is not about IPD. But the second is and has the IPD people on there too.

[Quote Originally Posted by theblackbox View Post

i installed this about a month and will first say the fit and build quality was extremely well done and it installed in about 45 min. however I have been experiencing in my opinion an above average amount of drone (i really am only concerned with what you can hear in the cabin not from the outside) when i am under 3000/3200 rpms. i was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. it is just much louder than i felt the video IPD put out as well as other videos ive heard of the exhaust. it would maybe not be as bad if it was a higher pitch but it has a low loud drone. I guess it is maybe not the volume as much as the tone anyone have any comparisons to other exhaust systems as far as sound/performance?]

well an update...

i found the flange between the downpipe and exhaust was not all the way tight (hence my excessive drone) and i am extremely happy with it. Like i said it fit together perfectly and I'm now in love with it! IPD makes a great product and I'm not an IPD or bust fan but i am very happy with this purchase!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am likely to just shim the block, get a good quality catback (maybe IPD, just cos no one else seems to have on over hear, cost of import and maybe the above issue being then expanded apon from Chinese wispers), I like being different, then we can either put any issues over IPD catback to bed or say Jon's has that and it is awful!

Chatted to Don at Kalmar Union too (to get Tims no.). He laid it out for me that a std V70R / S60R does make pretty much what Volvo said on the tin, 295bhp. And that a good remap (std bar that), should get to ~335bhp, then a good catback and downpipe to 360 (maybe a tad more 370 max I'm guessing but did not say exactly). Sound like half that difference is the catback and half the downpipe. IPD say the catback is good for about 15bhp extra on std car, so down pipe adding 10-20more.

So from that I think I should be aiming at 345-350 with Map and IPD Catback. That will be enough for me (50-55 up on std), which sounds about right from doing similar to my old T5.

This agrees with what the mapper I have previously used says on his site http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/vehicles/volvo/volvo_v70.htm So ad about 15 to that for the (big bore) catback and should give 350 (55 over std). A nice 18.6% gain in power, will feel like a lot more (as it is the amout of power / torque "under the curve" is what you feel.

May take till early next year now to get done as the shimming has added an unexpected amount.

Rear Brembo's now on with new handbrake shoes and the old style adjusters - tick.

Trackday on Friday (not in the Volvo!) at Combe so that should give it a good run out / check over.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Listening to an exhaust on your PC speakers is not the same as hearing it in real life. Just how good/bad are your speakers for one thing?

I agree with you though, it's subjective and totally a matter of personal preference.

No, of course not, but it's still better than having no/limited experience of the different configurations and how they change the sound.

And I have decent headphones to listen through ;-)

[htomi]

Good luck with the iPd exhaust. Sounds ok on the computer, however real life test going to tell....

Before start tuning your baby, make sure she’s back to stage 0. Shiming is a good idea, however a proper intercooler is what you’d need to safely reach the HP goal.

[jellison]

Shimming booked in with Tim in a few weeks.

340-350 should be doable (enough for what I need), so probably not have big intercooler (Don saying it only adds if really on the thing for a good while -i.e. tracking it, or really ragging the nads off it for long periods on the roads - is that even possible! It is and estate car), where under those conditions when it get really hot the ECU will knock it back to safe limits. I will not be using it like that.

5mm Eibachs spacers went on yesterday, at work today in carpark no wheel well scrapping for the first time (did get for my 17" rims that do not quite clear the 4 pots for the winter but popped on the std 18's for now to see how if they would help with the above. Looks not really much in it.

Oh and rear brakes now spot on - handbrake and overall stopping.

Can't believe the money I am spending on this thing though.

Looking forward to the end point (just normal maintenance), maybe Spring time. Ready for lots of towing.....!

Cheers
Jelly

[htomi]

340-350 HP is a lot. trust me you need a better intercooler! Its one of the weakest point of the R due to the factory one is undersized. If you don't want to add an FMIC (Snabb or what Tim is selling) then go for the do88 unit. Better flow, improved performance over the stock.

Plenty of threads about the intercooler topic on sweedspeed, have a read and you'll see.

[jellison]

I have 3 race cars to maintain, no kids(!), so only shimming, cat-back and a map for me. Then just maintain it in really nice nick. That on the T5 (obviously no shimming), made a Massive difference. If I can get same sort of uplift on the R I'll be plenty happy.

For reference the T5 (with 150ish k miles on it v.early this year), with the Jetex SS system fitted in place of the standard for remapped had a base RR run and made 250bhp (i.e. what it should have been as std, but it did have 150ishk on it so guessing but was maybe 240-245 with the std catback). Post remap 2 hours later it left with 305bhp and torque ended up at ~293 (not sure off top of head what the base was). But that was a 55bhp gain over the base setting (with the big-bore), so more like 60-62bhp+ over a guestimated 240-245 base (original exhaust).

So with the law of diminishing returns (but you do have a tad more capacity and a bigger turbo to off set that). So if I can go from lets say an honest 295 and add 45 (well down on the above) I think that is a reasonable assumption. Only issue being the place I use is a 2wd rollers, so to get it verified I'll have to book in after at SRR (Surrey Rolling road to see what I end up with).

If I can get it to the same power to weight as the T5 was before it left me, then than will be plenty (i.e. offset the extra weight and transmission losses for the 4x4 gubbins). Tim W was saying have I tried pushing and R about (no), they take a lot more to move about than a 2wd P2.....

[jellison]

Htomi - what did you replace your R with (as I see it says now sold)?

[LeeT5]

I have 3 race cars to maintain, no kids(!), so only shimming, cat-back and a map for me. Then just maintain it in really nice nick. That on the T5 (obviously no shimming), made a Massive difference. If I can get same sort of uplift on the R I'll be plenty happy.

That’s all well and good. Problem is, once the car is mapped it’ll be running more boost. More boost = more heat. I guarantee within 6 months you’ll either crack the Turbo flange or split your intercooler, if you don’t replace the IC with a quality aftermarket unit.
It will also expose other weak points.
Like Htomi says.
IMHO Tim’s IC is the best for guaranteed power gains. This has been proven in a track.
However, it’s also the most expensive but will mean no cutting of any bodywork, except the small hole on the slam panel for the Aircon port. It also uses stock connections, so no silly extra clamps and silicone adaptors.
It’s also the biggest IC to fit, literally mm either side to fit.

See mine or Harveys threads for photos (I did post lots of photos)

[jellison]

The car is not going to be ragged, just driven pretty normally and booted as any normal road car (the odd overtake and few minutes blast, anymore than that and you will be pulled or just think what am I doing ragging a 1750kg estate!!). It is my tow car / twice a week car. Not after the last bit of power (just a bit more than std 10-15% will get it back to the power to weight of my old T5 (which was all I want). Who knows I might even think stuff it, once shimmed at least it will be safe as std and not going to break and leave as is. All this stuff is down the line and might do but might not. 2 race engines to get fixed along at present too!

[htomi]

Htomi - what did you replace your R with (as I see it says now sold)?
I needed a smaller size, petrol based urban and daily commuting runner so ended with a Mazda 3, 2.0L petrol (skyactive) - 120 BHP hatchback GT pack. Obviously not a race horse, however its a real fun to drive around corners and windy roads.
I'm toying with the idea to get it re-mapped by BBR GTi. Will see....


Why Mazda?

1. No offence, but no German, French, Czech, Spanish etc as either overpriced or rubbish or both.... so no thanks, not for me.
2. Volvo currently does not offer anything good (at least not for my taste) and all are diesels (almost impossible to get a petrol Volvo here!) and way-way overpriced...
3. I hate diesel cars - all sounds like a tractor - only few brands are offering petrol versions over 100 BHP.
4. Got an unbelievable good offer from the dealer (2nd Mazda we've purchased from them)
5. Very reliable.
6. Was way cheaper than the competitor - Honda Civic 1.5 VTECH Turbo Petrol with GT pack.

Do I miss my R - yes! As said in my own thread, my heart still goes for the R, however my mind tells me that I made the right decision especially when I look at my newborn baby girl ;)

[htomi]

That’s all well and good. Problem is, once the car is mapped it’ll be running more boost. More boost = more heat. I guarantee within 6 months you’ll either crack the Turbo flange or split your intercooler, if you don’t replace the IC with a quality aftermarket unit.
It will also expose other weak points.
Like Htomi says.
IMHO Tim’s IC is the best for guaranteed power gains. This has been proven in a track.
However, it’s also the most expensive but will mean no cutting of any bodywork, except the small hole on the slam panel for the Aircon port. It also uses stock connections, so no silly extra clamps and silicone adaptors.
It’s also the biggest IC to fit, literally mm either side to fit.

jellison, no offence buddy, but Lee is telling the same thing what I told you already. It doesn't matter if you race the car or not. 50-60 extra HP and the increased boost would require a proper support, especially when we talking about a P2 R. The engine needs to breathe and cool properly. You cannot achieve this with stock parts. I see you're reading the us forum. Please read through Travis's thread. (TRAV)
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?204614-TRAV_R-s-Build-Thread focus on his first build (before he Darton sleeved the block) and how he managed to reach that insane power level from the stock block without cracking the sleeve.

Your T5 was a different animal. One of the best engine made by Volvo which can be easily and safely tuned with less hassle compared to a P2 R.
The R is a different beast...

[jellison]

SH*T this HID dipped beams are expensive. £120 for for 2. Was fed up of the winking drivers one going on and off and the difference in colour of them when on. Popped 2 new ones in, hopefully that fixed (mind I know P2 lights are always failing!).

[LeeT5]

SH*T this HID dipped beams are expensive. £120 for for 2. Was fed up of the winking drivers one going on and off and the difference in colour of them when on. Popped 2 new ones in, hopefully that fixed (mind I know P2 lights are always failing!).

You should always replace HID bulbs as 'pairs' due to the colour temp change, as they age!

No idea why you paid so much for them, where did you buy them from...Halfords or Dealer?

I bought my D2R XENARC COOL BLUE 5500k from a good source on ebay for about £45 the pair.

Here's a link....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-OSRAM-XENARC-D2R-COOL-BLUE-66250CBI-HID-XENON-BULB-Same-day-Delivery/232479683237?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dd88fce a52cf14a1e804c1acdd01a068b%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2 %26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D232317680551&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

If you look at my project thread, you'll see the light output is not blue either, it's a crisp pure white! They just have a tint of blue from a distance when looking at the car from front.

[jellison]

TITS. Halfords. Just woke up an thought that flickering on and off of the driver one has to stop NOW. So down to Halfords.

Bookmarks for when I need some more (bet it will be years now!).

Oh well!

Car going really well now. Lights the same obviously now and now drivers side dropping out on the one drive to work today.

Car in with Tim W next Friday for block shimming (+ oil / filter change 5w-40 (no more of that 0w-30 crap (just like water)), and new cambelt kit.

Then likely the car will not get touched (updates wise) till Jan / Feb. Bar winter rims / tyres.

[LeeT5]

TITS. Halfords. Just woke up an thought that flickering on and off of the driver one has to stop NOW. So down to Halfords.

Bookmarks for when I need some more (bet it will be years now!).

Oh well!

Car going really well now. Lights the same obviously now and now drivers side dropping out on the one drive to work today.

Car in with Tim W next Friday for block shimming (+ oil / filter change 5w-40 (no more of that 0w-30 crap (just like water)), and new cambelt kit.

Then likely the car will not get touched (updates wise) till Jan / Feb. Bar winter rims / tyres.

Yes indeed. My winter wheels/tyres go on in the next couple of weeks after a full wheel alignment.

[jellison]

Update. Now on 92.5k.

Day at Tim William yesterday. Now done.

Yesterday - Oil change (bin that std 0-30 crap the dealers put in - death these things!), now on Gulf Race 5w-40 and will be topping with (Fuchs)10w-60 over
next year / 10k). Tim was saying the VVT on both cams just mashes the oil, so the std stuff then just give minimal protection and gets used real fast.
- Cambelt kit(OEM), it had had a belt on at some stage, could not kind in all receipts (did not look old), anyway new one on and cams dialed in
(one was 5.8 the other 1.9. Now 1.9 and 2.3. Nice).
- Tim's block mod done and all new seals, bolts and new head gasket.
- New set of RS (one stage cooler) RS plugs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
- All of the Brembo brake kit now on, plus the adjustable handbrake mod.
- Sub-frame inserts.
- Top and Bottom poly engine mounts.
- Poly Inserts to the cross-brace (tried solids - not for me).
- Fuel Pressure sensor change plus clean of the MAF.
- Eibach spacer on (but really for the 17"'s).

Now spot on, another small improvement on way home yesterday.

Now will run for 2-3 months pre-exhaust and tune. Needs it, to be more with the next generation of this type of car now. The wake up.....

Defo getting there. Good to pick Tim's brain on what is worth doing and what is a waste of time (for me), wanting it to be a properly fast but reliable nice day / tow car. He thought it was a really nice one :)

Way better than when I bought it mid summer!

Other cars to get fixed now.....

[Ric@rdo]

Nice :)

[LeeT5]

- New set of RS (one stage cooler) RS plugs.

Whats the benefit of those then?

[Ric@rdo]

Helps to prevent knock, especially if it's mapped. I have two stages colder on mine.

[Markyb]

Might have to look at set of these when I get serivce and mot done. Do you have any links as to where you purchased them from? Wish I could get hold of tim to have a look at my vvt and set it again as its still hunting at idle occasionally and doesn't feel like it has any gains up the Rev band once the turbo kicks in, feels very flat.

[jellison]

What Ricardo said on the plugs ;) Sounded like that was what he puts into all cars and especially if going to get hard use or more boost. Don't have the exact plug number (think Bosch), maybe the RS Ford forums will know or just call Tim.

Seems to answer phone quick enough (once you have his number!!). If you need tel no, just PM.

[Ric@rdo]

I don't know what brand Ford uses in their cars, but you can get info on the Denso plugs for our cars.
You can find them cheaper in the UK ;)

http://www.vivaperformance.com/denso-iridium-power-spark-plugs-s60-v70-s40-v50-c30-c70/

[Markyb]

I must be phoning at the wrong times :-(

[jellison]

I have noticed over the last few month when I drive the Volvo into work the DSTC (I think that is what the button is labelled) cut in on this long sweeper where the M25 joins the M3 (going clockwise). Only doing about 70-80 when this happens and no where near the limits of the tyres (run round here in wifes old Puma most days at 85 or more no problem (kph obviously!). Is there something wrong here (this is the only place it has shown up). Why is it even there, was not on T5 (that had TC but only cut in at lower speeds in 1st or second?

When you press this button to turn this off it comes up on the dash as DSTC reduced (not off as it did when you pressed the TC button in the T5). I'd like to just turn this pointless thing off completely, can I do this in Vida?

It has AWD so that is covering you down low where the T5 TC was sometimes coming in and worked well. At higher speed T5 did not have this rubbish and I don't want it on the R.

[antonys60r]

Dstc stands for Dynamic stability traction control. It's more than just traction control. There is a yaw sensor underneath the drivers seat. If you want to turn it off press the dstc button 5 times , off,on in succession then it will say dstc off. But the next time you start the car it will be on as its volvo safety.
You may have a cracked relucter ring so causing the system to cut in on right turns.

[jellison]

Dstc stands for Dynamic stability traction control. It's more than just traction control. There is a yaw sensor underneath the drivers seat. If you want to turn it off press the dstc button 5 times , off,on in succession then it will say dstc off. But the next time you start the car it will be on as its volvo safety.
You may have a cracked relucter ring so causing the system to cut in on right turns.Hi Anthony. Aha, I did turn it off (I just pressed and held the button to get it off), but like you say back on on next start up, and even when off it says DSTC reduced. maybe the 5 pressed does the full off then. Not a fan of any of this fancy electronic rubbish getting in the way of the chassis doing its thing. Where could this cracked reluctor ring be? presume Vida would tell me if something wrong?

Just googled - https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=volvo+DSTC+cracked+reluctor&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB750GB750&oq=volvo+DSTC+cracked+reluctor&aqs=chrome..69i57.12648j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[LeeT5]

I doubt there’s anything wrong. Taking a sweeping bend at 80mph (I know the bend very well as I’ve taken it at that speed myself) your almost certainly loosing slight traction, hence why the DSTC light flickers. It’s normal and nothing to worry about.
It means the system is functioning and preventing you from falling off the bend.
Can I suggest slowing down a bit or maybe get better quality tyres!
The speed limit on that bend is 50mph, once the exit splits and your committed to the M25 East bound.

[antonys60r]

Hi Jon pressing it once reduces the system, pressing it 5 times turns it off. Even when you turn it off I don't think it's completely turned off though. Volvo safety again. If it only cuts in on this bend then as Lee says the system is doing it's thing. If it begins to start cutting in on most turns then you may have an issue.
I turned mine off completely on a grass field and still I could hear it cutting in which is a shame.

[LeeT5]

Hi Jon pressing it once reduces the system, pressing it 5 times turns it off. Even when you turn it off I don't think it's completely turned off though. Volvo safety again. If it only cuts in on this bend then as Lee says the system is doing it's thing. If it begins to start cutting in on most turns then you may have an issue.
I turned mine off completely on a grass field and still I could hear it cutting in which is a shame.

Pressing the DSTC button once - 'DSTC Function reduced' displayed in DIM - will turn OFF the traction control ONLY! All other DSTC functions will operate as normal.
Pressing the DSTC button 5 times with a 1 sec pause between presses - 'DSTC ANTI SKID OFF' displayed in DIM. This fully disables the DSTC including TRACS (Traction Control) via the ABS and EBA.

It would be unwise to fully disable the DSTC function on normal roads, as the system is designed to compensate for 'human error' and can react far quicker than you can. Yaw sensors and wheel speed sensors are constantly monitoring the cars behaviour in any giving moment and comparing that to pre programmed info. Any deviation from what's normal or considered 'normal' and the system will react by firing the ABS on any one given brake caliper to correct your sillyness.
It can even reduce engine torque if required!
When it's functioning the DSTC light will flash or come on.

[jellison]

Cheers guys, so likely all ok. No DSTC or ABS service warnings on dash (not had Vida plugged in o see if a code), so presumably reluctor ring and abs sensors fine. Can go way faster in the Puma round the same bend (has TC but just the stuff like the T5 (I think) had that just does it thing at the lower end of the speed range.

Yep pressing it once put on the Reduced pop-up on the dash and no knocking back of the engine / light on during the bend this morning. Not sure about slowing down is an option (it kicks in very early compared to what the wifes roller skate breezes round there doing)! Have to press the button before that bend each day or us the Puma :)

Don't think I'll try the 5 button all off setting (a lot of faffing about!).

Off to Spa next week for trackday in mates sc MX5 again (would be interesting in the Volvo - but think it would need a bit more power).

Tyres are some Toyo's (new just before I got it in the Summer), not 888's.

[jellison]

Could someone list all the parts I need when I get round to this awd service - will do when old exhaust come off, when have a new one (pity the thing is not just fwd with better TC!). I see Anthony's recent post of this stuff (bet he wises it FWD or RWD only!).

I saw this post on Lee's thread.

"Regards the awd it would be a good idea to get all the fluids changed angle gear, haldex coupling and filter and the rear diff.
You have the angle gear as Volvo call it which is the transfer box. You have to pump the oil out and in to refill. Usually the splined sleeve from the gearbox fails mine did. Yours should be ok as it's a facelift model. Then there is the aoc active on demand coupling, the haldex which has a filter as well. Again pump the oil out and to refill. The pump has a mesh filter on it that you can remove and clean. You need to remove the exhaust and propshaft to remove the haldex pump. Lastly the rear diff again pump oil out and in to refill. I always use genuine volvo fluids for each. Lots of information on doing these jobs all over this forum and the internet".

The fluids for the transfer box, this Haldex filter, fluids for this and the diff oil.

Can I get to all this with the exhaust off and the prop on? (not sure I can face doing it). Was going to change exhaust in my garage on axle stands, but mechanic I use said I could just use his hoist and has those very easy so next to no labour, so just get him to do all this stuff when its off.

Sounds like from the above the diff or the transfer case / angle gear do not have drain plugs (how nuts is that!).

[antonys60r]

Hi Jon . All the fluids have to be pumped out as there are no separate drain plugs. I use a hand pump to empty and refill but a mityvac would be easier. You can replace all fluids and the haldex filter with the prop and exhaust still fitted but the top bolt on the haldex filter is a pain. Simple job with the prop removed.
Also you can remove the pump and clean the mesh filter only with the prop and exhaust removed as when they are still fitted you can't get the pump past the prop.

[jellison]

Cheers Anthony. So Oil for Angle gear and same for the Halex - should we source from Volvo or a rip off and can get same elsewhere. Will check my mechanic has one of those pumps for when we do this (thinking feb / march for this / pipe and map), then hopefully nothing for a long time after.....

[antonys60r]

I order my 3 fluids and haldex filter from frf volvo in Swansea . Use code c3 for a good discount.
Quick delivery as well.

[jellison]

Just googling (thank time of year) numbers of S60R and V70R's in Auto and Manual there are.

Christ 6 spd manual's really are rare birds!

http://v70r.com/forums/topic/9887-v70-r-production-figures/
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?137553-V70R-production-numbers-by-model-year-Overall
http://www.swedespeed.com/features/Technical_Features/project-v70r-purchase/

[jellison]

So my 17's for the winter did not fit.

Sadly putting up for sale :wallbash::wavey: If anyone with a T5 or other P2 wants some mega rims and tyres....

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?64037-Volvo-Borbet-17-quot-rims-and-new-Goodyear-Eagle-F1-s-x-4&p=815046#post815046

[jellison]

Getting the exhaust done this Friday. Was going to be IMP catback, until the cost of sending over here became apparent (I was ok with the cost and the vat / duty, but when I found out that the Fedex for it was going to be almost as much as the actual exhaust (as well!), well stuff that.

Looked at a few systems from this side of the pond and almost plumped for the TME one. But not convinced by the twin pipe all the way through setup, rather than binning and just having a one bigger pipe all the way through as per IPD (3 1/8 equivalent) or LeeT5's (2.5") http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?43367-Custom-2-5-quot-cat-back-exhaust-made-today&highlight=. Discussed with Lee on his and decided this was the way to go (for me), so booked in with Fast Road Conversions in Kent.

Did ask if they could do a 2.75" system, but do not do that size of tubing, and they seemed to think that the 2.5 would be limited to ~ 350bhp (which I doubt), knowing what a 2.5" system looks like from my NA 2.6 TR6 racer, I thought Hmm, does not seem that much, so asked if they could do 3" (still tad smaller than IPD), but with the same 2.5" tail pipes Lee had (so looks fairly stock - think std rear pipes are less than that - guessing 2.25ish). So going this route, but making sure it will definately not be loud unless properly on it (so will have a decent sized front silencer (rather than IPD's resonator). So basically as Lees just one size bigger pipe and 2 good sized boxes. Also If I was going for a downpipe at some point in the future (doubt it) it would all seemlessly being going from header to 3" downpipe to 3" catback.

More Friday / Sat.

Then having all fluids (+ Haldex filter (from Volvo), rear diff, mid stuff and gearbox flush / refill) changed when back home and with local mechanic. Then off for the map sometime in next few weeks.

[Harvey]

TME do a sport cat back which you will never get to it's limit no matter what you do to the engine.
It's what i have on mine sounds nice but with the down pipe they do different ball game :)
Text from there site.
The modified S60R - V70R exhaust used by MTE and dynotested to 700 hp is now available. It makes a harder, but not much louder sound compared to our EU/TÜV-certified version. Back pressure is similar to our standard system if used with original turbocharger. Ground clearance is slightly better by 10-15 mm (1/2") It's available for all previous generation 2WD or AWD versions of S60-V70-S80 with either twin 70 mm or single 80 mm tailpipe. 

When you see the stock exhaust next to the 3 diffrent manufacturers that make them for the S60R or V70R they all have the twin pipes like the stock cat back .
Sorry ipd exhaust excluded .
Why are you not keen for the twin pipes setup ?

[jellison]

Just like the look of the one on Lee's and all my racers are single pipe jobs from the collector back, i.e. like IPD (but tad smaller bore and with proper front silencer.

I think they will do a really good job from Lee's experience, plus it is drive in drive out, I like custom, can work out exactly what I want with the guy who will do the work when I arrive, i.e. how loud(not too much over stock, but deep when on it, ala AMG), read a book while it is being done.

Pic's when done. Remap might have to wait, race cars all non-working and season just 2 months away(!), lots of towing and moving cars about! Will squeeze it in before April hopefully. Then that will be it, just keep it in tip top shape.

[jellison]

On another note.

Any one use these Toyo Proxes T1 Sport tyres? They were not long on it when I bought in the summer.

Seem OK in the dry (but not great), but scatchy or wet not as good as the Goodyear Eagle F1's (or in the dry) I had on the T5. Not going to be changing anytime soon, but will be with something different when they need changing, Eagles likely.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Pic's when done.

Errr, no. You meant videos when done! We need to hear it :D

[Ettienne]

TME do a sport cat back which you will never get to it's limit no matter what you do to the engine.
It's what i have on mine sounds nice but with the down pipe they do different ball game :)
Text from there site.
The modified S60R - V70R exhaust used by MTE and dynotested to 700 hp is now available. It makes a harder, but not much louder sound compared to our EU/TÜV-certified version. Back pressure is similar to our standard system if used with original turbocharger. Ground clearance is slightly better by 10-15 mm (1/2") It's available for all previous generation 2WD or AWD versions of S60-V70-S80 with either twin 70 mm or single 80 mm tailpipe. 

When you see the stock exhaust next to the 3 diffrent manufacturers that make them for the S60R or V70R they all have the twin pipes like the stock cat back .
Sorry ipd exhaust excluded .
Why are you not keen for the twin pipes setup ?

Iirc when in Gothenburg they said that the development s60r had a TME exhaust and was more powerful around 350-360 then the cost cutting accountants had there way and needed up at 300bhp.

[jellison]

Exhaust Friday and now decided to get map on following sat, then will have pics and a vid.:wink:🤗😎😜

[jellison]

Rims and tyres from T5 here https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Volvo-Borbet-17-alloy-rims-and-new-Goodyear-Eagle-F1s-235-45-/253414700892

[jellison]

Here we go.

Long day, but worth it. As above I decided I fancied the 3" version of what Lee had. Same bar the flattening of the mid part of the long pipe between the front box and the rear one (in front of and below the diff as per the IPD system).

Once all done bar the last foot or so we mocked up tail pipes in 2.5 or 3" (std is 2.5"). They only do 2, 2.25 or 3. Decided to go with the twin 3" jobs. Off the car 2 slash cut 3" pipes looks bloody big, but when in the hole and fitted snug they look pretty much stock if you did not know an R Volvo really well.

31967
31968
31969
31970
31971
31972
31973
31974

Sounds damn good and I'm sure it will be even better with some more boost dialled in (Next Saturday). Short Vid maybe tomorrow.

Feels like it has definately more go, but still needs a darn site more to pull the big barge down the road how I want it.

[MoleT-5R]

looks lovely, I look forward to the tunnel vids and the noise.... :)

[LeeT5]

31969



Now all you gotta do is replace the 3 missing bolts and 2 plate brackets to stop that heatshield from rattling around.

[jellison]

Yep, will do when it get the fluids changed over next few weeks. Removed the rear one, as box not even close to any of it.

[Ric@rdo]

The extra boost will make it sound better :)

[jellison]

Defo. Already bloody great though. More pops on overrun with boost.

[LeeT5]

The extra boost will make it sound better :)

Will also split your OE intercooler, that I can guarantee as well as unearth other boost leaks you never knew you had!

[jellison]

Hi Lee. Between myself and father we have had 6 cars (2 motorhomes) mapped and never had a boost related issue (over the last 10 years or so). The boost increases we are talking about (to gain 40 - 60bhp) are well within the confines of most modern cars Turbo / Intercooler system.

The place I use (http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/vehicles/bmw/bmw_index.htm) do pretty well any modern Turbo Petrol / Diesel car you can imagine (see the list). If those cars all needed bigger intercoolers post a remap they would not be in business, as not many would stump up for the extra expense the big intercooler and fitting.

I have clarified this with the above plus Don at Kalmar and Tim W. The bigger intercooler is are aimed more at the much higher boost levels and / or when cars get run for very long periods flat chat (i.e. on a trackday (last place I'd take a 1.7 ton estate)), where the system is under load for very longer periods (20min session under full noise). If I was aiming for 450bhp then a big Turbo and intercooler would be on the list, but not for jumping from 295 to 340/60 (maybe 370+ with a downpipe).

Maybe you are running a lot more boost?!

[jellison]

Update.

Got to Mappers sat morning, plugged in and found all fine bar the bloody front lambda sensor not working! Same thing happened when I had the T5 down there. He said best not do it one of these. Ordered the Sensor and will get it fitted this Saturday along with a huge list of other bits I was getting done anyway. Not the worse thing in the world as I had lots of other stuff to do (race car stuff) down that way before off home.

Mapper said (he does alot of these) the Lambda's on these pretty well go every 60-80k miles....

Getting done Saturday:-

1. Install new Lambda.
2. Track down and fix a minor oil leak (looks like round filter area, have a new Filter / cover plus 2x Turbo return line gaskets, most likely one of these).
3. Replace gearbox oil.
4. Replace Angle Gear oil.
5. Replace Active Demand Coupling oil.
6. Replace rear diff oil.
7. Replace Haldex filter.
8. Replace fuel filter supplied.
9. Replace air filter.

Then book it in again for mapping over next 2-3 weeks (down that way for putting my V8 back in TVR once rebuilt), get it done then most likely.

On the exhaust, thought I might have gone a bit far with the 3" system, but the more its driven the more used to it I get. A tad droney at low-mid 80's (kmh), but spot on over 90 and below 75. I'm sure the noise will change a bit once mapped though.

Costing a darn site more to run or at least get absolutely spot on vs the T5! Hopefully once above done I can relax and enjoy it as I have at least gotten all the issues (post purchase) / best to do things done.

[Harvey]

Update.

Got to Mappers sat morning, plugged in and found all fine bar the bloody front lambda sensor not working! Same thing happened when I had the T5 down there. He said best not do it one of these. Ordered the Sensor and will get it fitted this Saturday along with a huge list of other bits I was getting done anyway. Not the worse thing in the world as I had lots of other stuff to do (race car stuff) down that way before off home.

Mapper said (he does alot of these) the Lambda's on these pretty well go every 60-80k miles....

Getting done Saturday:-

1. Install new Lambda.
2. Track down and fix a minor oil leak (looks like round filter area, have a new Filter / cover plus 2x Turbo return line gaskets, most likely one of these).
3. Replace gearbox oil.
4. Replace Angle Gear oil.
5. Replace Active Demand Coupling oil.
6. Replace rear diff oil.
7. Replace Haldex filter.
8. Replace fuel filter supplied.
9. Replace air filter.

Then book it in again for mapping over next 2-3 weeks (down that way for putting my V8 back in TVR once rebuilt), get it done then most likely.

On the exhaust, thought I might have gone a bit far with the 3" system, but the more its driven the more used to it I get. A tad droney at low-mid 80's (kmh), but spot on over 90 and below 75. I'm sure the noise will change a bit once mapped though.

Costing a darn site more to run or at least get absolutely spot on vs the T5! Hopefully once above done I can relax and enjoy it as I have at least gotten all the issues (post purchase) / best to do things done.

I hate to tell you there's always something the 'R' wants :B_thumb:

[jellison]

Yep starting to get that.

[davebb]

Update.

Got to Mappers sat morning, plugged in and found all fine bar the bloody front lambda sensor not working! Same thing happened when I had the T5 down there. He said best not do it one of these. Ordered the Sensor and will get it fitted this Saturday along with a huge list of other bits I was getting done anyway. Not the worse thing in the world as I had lots of other stuff to do (race car stuff) down that way before off home.

Mapper said (he does alot of these) the Lambda's on these pretty well go every 60-80k miles....

Getting done Saturday:-

1. Install new Lambda.
2. Track down and fix a minor oil leak (looks like round filter area, have a new Filter / cover plus 2x Turbo return line gaskets, most likely one of these).
3. Replace gearbox oil.
4. Replace Angle Gear oil.
5. Replace Active Demand Coupling oil.
6. Replace rear diff oil.
7. Replace Haldex filter.
8. Replace fuel filter supplied.
9. Replace air filter.

Then book it in again for mapping over next 2-3 weeks (down that way for putting my V8 back in TVR once rebuilt), get it done then most likely.

On the exhaust, thought I might have gone a bit far with the 3" system, but the more its driven the more used to it I get. A tad droney at low-mid 80's (kmh), but spot on over 90 and below 75. I'm sure the noise will change a bit once mapped though.

Costing a darn site more to run or at least get absolutely spot on vs the T5! Hopefully once above done I can relax and enjoy it as I have at least gotten all the issues (post purchase) / best to do things done.
Hi I bet it will be well worth the wait when all done,
can they keep the car in two wheel drive so it can be tuned on the dyno,
Dave

[LeeT5]

Hi I bet it will be well worth the wait when all done,
can they keep the car in two wheel drive so it can be tuned on the dyno,
Dave

To correctly map/tune a V70R/S60R you need a 4WD Dyno machine.
Disconnecting the AWD and mapping, then reconnecting once mapped, would just cause the car to not behave how your mapping it to behave due to the extra load forces put on the car when the AWD is functioning correctly.

You would not be doing yourself any favours by disabling the AWD to run a tune on a 2WD dyno.

[Ric@rdo]

There are good tuners out there that tune our cars by data logging on the road.
Mine was tuned this way. Much better in my opinion.

[jellison]

Guy we use has done lots of these.

Update post having all the above done:-

1. Install new Lambda.
2. Track down and fix a minor oil leak (looks like round filter area, have a new Filter / cover plus 2x Turbo return line
gaskets, most likely one of these).
3. Replace gearbox oil.
4. Replace Angle Gear oil.
5. Replace Active Demand Coupling oil.
6. Replace rear diff oil.
7. Replace Haldex filter.
8. Replace fuel filter supplied.
9. Replace air filter.
10. Adjust handbrake
11. Pull pads from rear drivers disc as a score in there (bit of metal crap had gotten in there).

It is a totally different car now. Only driven back from mechanics (maybe 4 miles), but christ it is such a difference.

The non-working Lambda, must have been causing it to have really wound the ECU back to properly safe settings, as I had almost started another thread on how disappointed I was with what I thought was a FSH and then some minor fixes sorted by me, car thinking that is how it should be. When like that I was going to say how flat I felt it was vs the mapped T5 (just talking the power here not the rest). Was going to say how crap I thought it was pulling 170kg more than a T5 around and that was really killing the performance (still not convinced by this 4x4 stuff being needed with modern tyres - WTCC cars are mostly FWD with 380bhp). And this is with 200cc more double VVT and bigger turbo!

But anyway, I did think the low end and mid range was good (not amazing but a good step on the mapped T5), but that the top end was basically RUBBISH mush past 5. It really revs out now and feels like it has a stack more power everywhere, but best is it now has a top end!

Doubt I'll drive it much till I get it mapped next friday, more then. Have gotten used to the exhaust now - Bloody hell that thing is awesome (but will be way better with bit more boost).

[jellison]

My second point (largely around the above findings) is why would you every use a Volvo main dealer, when there is Vida and good local mechanic you trust (all they do is plug Vida in and order the duff part, not much skill as far as properly diagnosing anything)!

My point being this car has likely been running with a stuffed front Lambda for ages (it has not really changed since buying it - it did improve slightly with a clean of the MAF and the RS plugs at TW's, but nothing significant), the car had just had a Volvo service, guy who had it for a year before me probably just thought (like me) that is how they are! Main dealer service just like thought well earned money to the wind to pay for large premise and huge staff to sell new cars and have huge service dept with well paid staff.

Just my take anyway. Only time I used them was to try to diagnose the stuffed (limp mode on T5 before given away), useless.

Back to getting the racers fixed now.....

[antonys60r]

I'm pleased Jon your finally getting your R to somewhere near where you want it.
Your exhaust is very tempting !

[LeeT5]

(still not convinced by this 4x4 stuff being needed with modern tyres - WTCC cars are mostly FWD with 380bhp).



A new Lambda sensor will always make a big difference. If you wanna improve things further, remove and clean the ETM and then reset the adaptions for the ETM. Then you'll feel an even bigger improvement, especially in throttle response. Couple that with new spark plugs too!

Also, try pulling the fuse for the AOC and see what the car drives like then! For you to say the above clearly says that you underestimate just how much a difference the AWD makes, especially when putting upwards of 300bhp through the wheels. It doesn't matter how expensive or great the tyres are, on normal roads in the UK I can use 100% of my R's available power 100% of the time. When the AWD is not working, frankly, it can be ridiculous and embarrassing. Add a damp surface or rain and I'm restricted to driving like I've got my Nan in the passenger seat.
When my AWD failed earlier last year, I was shocked at just how much I take it for granted and the confidence it gives you when the conditions are really miserable.


My second point (largely around the above findings) is why would you every use a Volvo main dealer, when there is Vida and good local mechanic you trust (all they do is plug Vida in and order the duff part, not much skill as far as properly diagnosing anything)!


Mmmm, I don't think your slagging off of main dealers is justified. Just because you had a great result with the new Lambda sensor doesn't mean it's the dealer fault that the cars been driving under powered. A lazy, slow reacting lambda sensor will not put the EML on unless the lambda sensor readings fall out of range of the expected values for the ECM. That's the whole point of 'adaption' and allowing for a slow, degradation of sensors on the engine, which over time, will become contaminated by carbon, dirt and oil.

It would be woefully wrong of any main dealer to suggest that they replace any sensor just because it's done 100k or 'it's slow to react and the engine will perform better with a new one'! That's blindingly obvious.
If the sensor is working within spec then they wouldn't and SHOULDN'T replace it.

To say that all they do is plug in VIDA and replace a duff part is a bit unfair. What would you expect them to do, leave the 'duff part' fitted to your car?

If you took your car to a main dealer for a full service costing, lets say £300 and you went to collect your car and the bill was £600, would you be happy or annoyed?
...But what If I told you that not only did they do a full service for £300, they also spent 4 hours removing and cleaning the MAF sensor, BPS, ETM, MAP sensor, cleaned the blades on the turbo impellor, removed and cleaned the spark plugs (replaced if necessary), reset throttle adaptions.

The point I'm making is any garage/Dealer can do all of the above but main dealers will only rectify any faults based on symptoms or faults codes found because they are on strict time and cannot be seen doing stuff to customers cars that is not in relation to the original request/fault that the car came in for. That practice can land them in serious hot water and complaints from customers about doing work that wasn't needed, dispite the fact that to a trained mechanic/technician, we all know that it DOES make a big difference. Trying to explain that to Joe bloggs who doesn't know the first thing about cars will only look like the Dealer is trying to profit, which is why they don't do it.

If a garage chooses to do that, it would be done as a good will or if no significant time was added to the job. As labour rates are generally cheaper than main dealers, it's easier for the customer to swallow and therefore easier for the garage to justify!

[jellison]

Hi Lee, I'll see how she goes now I have the power it should have had. You're probably right on the grip (once mapped), but in 300bhp guise 235/245x40 17/18's and good suspension FWD would be fine - T5 with wobbly old suspension but 235 x17's on and new Goodyears was up to the job and the suspension was 16 years old and ultra soft. If that had had those wheels / tyres, 310bhp and a set of lowered B6's it would have been fantastic. 350+bhp probably would have overwhelmed that though. Mind any given corner I can go round just as fast or faster in an 18 yr old Puma with just lowering springs (almost 800kg less).

What I was saying is that clearly the Volvo service just before I bought it did not flag that the lambda was not working (it could not have been as it felt Ok when bought but just flat (not what I was expecting, how would you know!). We can agree to disagree on dealer stuff. 130 plus per hour is largely just paying for say 10 service staff, 5 sales staff and 5 - 10 other sales / admin (going on my local dealer setup) people, etc staffs salary's and the huge overheads in the property rental. Then you have the costs on (some parts - certainly not all being 2-3x what the same part will be away from the dealer, and example being all fluids were bit cheaper (all Volvo stuff from PFS, but the Lambda (same bosch part) was ~2.4x the price (94 vs 230 quid!).

Would not change that view on Dealers. Just waiting for lotto win then I might take my Fezza F12 to the dealer cos I will not care about through cash away. Till then I have some other toys that need lots spent on them!

Hi Anthony - have to show you what it is like once mapped. Will try to get a vid (static camera aimed at exhaust) once mapped.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogEbFKwICtI&t=165s"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogEbFKwICtI&t=165s

[Ric@rdo]

I have my K24 with a 11 blade wheel pushing 25psi.
On the dry, I can only find grip in 3rd gear. On the wet, only in 4th gear. I have Pilot Sport 4.
It's great on the highway but that's about it. I like it a lot but I agree with Lee.

[jellison]

Grip is overrated. Kills racing.

Is K24 the std Turbo on R or T5 or bigger than either?

You should try 480bhp in a car weighing 1030kg on 225/60x15's on a tiny 85.5" wheelbase (V70 23" longer) - FUN though :yikes:

[Ric@rdo]

Must be fun!! :D

The K24 is standard on the >05 T5's and R's.

[jellison]

Ricardo. Gotcha on the Turbos. Mine was an 01 (so smaller one). Yours must be a sweet T5 with the bigger turbo, decent suspension and 17 or bigger wheels / tyres (proper sleeper) + no need for head shimming and can take big boost straight off. Gonna be not far off an R at similar levels of boost and 170Kg lighter - Nice combo :).
I'll have to ask the mapper what kind of max boost mine ends up with (not fitting a boost gauge).

Keeps you focused!! If you try to over drive it it will just spit you off / kill you. My Tr6 with 235bhp is barely slower on a flying lap, but Griff just destroys straights once hooked up. Get it back with freshened engine (closing on 500bhp maybe) in next few weeks, (run in on road for 250 - 300 miles then dyno it - place I use has a 4x4 dyno so will do a power run on the R at the same time, map next Friday). Hope to then stop spending on the R for a good while. I really have spend a lot on this since last summer, can't be many fully sorted / properly tweaked manuals out there.

[Markyb]

I'm thinking having a new lambda sensor fitted, mine lost top end power when I had the ferrita downpipe added, although vida shows no obvious errors it's never been the same since, and I have a random hunting that appears at idle for no reason, again looking at different things on vida showed nothing was untoward, had a leak test done, still nothing, both one way valves replaced. I'm thinking another 100 quid thrown at it won't hurt and will stop it playing on my mind every time I struggle to keep up with slightly sub 6 second cars, as to why it isn't as quick as it used to feel

[davebb]

I'm thinking having a new lambda sensor fitted, mine lost top end power when I had the ferrita downpipe added, although vida shows no obvious errors it's never been the same since, and I have a random hunting that appears at idle for no reason, again looking at different things on vida showed nothing was untoward, had a leak test done, still nothing, both one way valves replaced. I'm thinking another 100 quid thrown at it won't hurt and will stop it playing on my mind every time I struggle to keep up with slightly sub 6 second cars, as to why it isn't as quick as it used to feel
Hi Get some one to look at your air/fuel ratio with a wide band O2 sensor on a dyno
or fit a wide band O2 sensor and gauge and test under load,
but 1st test the cars lambda sensor/o2 don't just go changing parts without testing them, you may find that with the new pipe it is running to weak as it is getting better flow, log the mass air flow meter to see if it is maxing out,
Dave

[jellison]

OK, mapping done.

Firstly more on the different just having the working Lambda made, really good improvement all through rev range (like the car I thought I was buying in the summer last year!). had a great run from Stroud to the mappers on M4 junction on friday, (amazing open road for 17 odd miles (strange not run it before having lived down there early part of life).

Anyway the difference was as I expected. Similar jump to T5 with map and a catback. Tuner (2wd roller but does pretty much any turbo car as you can see from his website - Southwestincartech). He guestimated with that tune and my exhaust it is going to be about 350bhp & 345ft/lbs. I'd say that is about right (give or take 5bhp/ft/lbs), 1st, 2nd 3rd gear pull now really good. 6th gear roll on at anything over 80 is bloody good. Probably get it dyno'd when I have my freshly rebuilt TVR engine in for it final power run post running in (4x4 rollers) - 4-6 weeks. Outside a BIG turbo (not doing that - wife might draw the line!), a downpipe or intercooler would only give max 20-25bhp more that it has, and for me it is now spot on. A proper sleeper (mine is hardly sounds it!).

Tuner did say it will smooth out over next few days of running as ecu relearns some base stuff that get wiped when ecu flashed. Original mapped all saved to various secure places if ever wanted it back. Also I asked if he could raise the stupidly low idle (real number on the life tracing were 680 - 730 ish - stupid. Bloody emission crap. He said as the later Gen 3 ecu this would be hard to tweak (as only allows with in very small limits, but he did manage to get it closer to 800, and defo smooths the idle with the poly gbox mounts, x brace insert ones and top mount - 900 would have been better but ha!).

Hopefully just enjoy it now as I doubt I will mod it anymore (certainly not a downpipe - it sound like a Group B S1Audi already). I could seem myself maybe doing a Intercooler down the road (not FMIC). But for how I'll be using it, the way it is now should be good. Have to stop spending cash on it now (it is ALL done).

Gotta concentrate on getting the cars this things was bought to tow back together over the next month or two now!!

I have spent a bloody lot on this thing (only manual one for sale out of about 5-6 in the country (V70R's) when I bought and lowish miles, so really not cheap for what its was, new brakes all round, lots of minor stuff to get back to what I thought it should be, lots of poly stuff (though not suspension as like how it is std), all those fluids, filters done, the mega catback and now the tune. Alot. Everything I can possibly think off basically..........

It just turned 95k on why back from mappers.

Will try to get a Vid of the noise (strap race cam to tow bar) and go for a blast.

[jellison]

Mate got me this - mint Dealer Brochure (car was Squire Furneaux car too). My car on the cover!

32133

[Harvey]

Mate got me this - mint Dealer Brochure (car was Squire Furneaux car too). My car on the cover!

32133
Same here :)
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2018-06/20180626_200625_zpsqhzh0owi.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2018-06/20180626_200625_zpsqhzh0owi.jpg.html)

[jellison]

Nice one Harvey.

Last few days car has been coming up with "TAILGATE OPEN" Warning on dash, but clearly the hatch is Locked.

Is this likely to be me having to take hatchback panels off to get at the sensor? I have the daft pop-up rear seats with the unlock lever on the back of the hatch for people using these(!).

[Harvey]

could be lock or harness at the hinge ?, Is it on all the time ?

[davebb]

I have been having this on my s60, and it was small stones trapped between the bumper and boot,
Dave

[jellison]

Hi chaps - yes on all the time now - press the button to cancel when I start it.

Nothing obvious to catch on above bumper on estate or in the slot where the catch hits the mechanism in the load floor.

I'll pop out and see if the hing harness is easily accessible - WFH today.

[jellison]

Right just pulled everything apart. All electrics in the rear hatch via the hinges, none in the base round the catch. Taken off hinge covers on both sides - seem fine. Large rear panel off I can access the switch, removing and replacing and squirting switch cleaner in there does nothing, put back together. That might be it for that if there is a way to turn it off via Vida? Life to short for this dull crap, way more important things.

[jellison]

Some progress!

Original tuner (now he has the software to clone these more difficult ecu's), has successfully copied the engine tune and the imo onto a good SH ME7 ecu.

Was towing when I got to him, so not really to obvious if any change on way home, but following day too for a local drive and yep a definate improvement.

No it does not seem to tie itself in knots now when it gets to 3.5k and not horribly lurchy when on / off throttle now.

Pulls well all the way through the rev range in all gears now. So I am presuming it must have allowed it to go past the previous 1.1 bar point when it was abruptly sending a dodgy signal on reading the MAF or MAP (can't remember). Mind not sure it feel like it has gain masses of top end power. Will see on rollers in next few weeks. Even if it has gained 20-30bhp and is smoother all the way through will keep me happy for a while.

Just turned 100k too last week.

It has alot of towing to do over next two months..............

** Anthony - I'll txt you over next few weeks to pop round to try to sort my 2 Vida's now!! and turn off my bloody Service required crap! Maybe we can log the boost on a drive out in it to see it what it max's out at now.

[davebb]

Hi good you now have the car running well,
Let use know how it is going and what BOOOOOST it is now making, can you use torque on android to read boost,
Good luck
Dave

[jellison]

Driven it a bit more now and boost seems to keep going instead of big drop and it tying itself in knots at mid 3's. You should have seen Dyno curve before (post map but on the dodgy orig ecu - ramps up really fast (likely faster than std) to 3300 revs then trend drops at that point and keeps rising to 6k, but on a much lower gradient.

It is a very good reliable set of rollers as when showed mapper the printout, he said "Ooh I'd like one of those, but they are £70 grand". Racer mad 527bhp on it last month after a rebuild / cam swap (gained 85bhp).....

[davebb]

Hi the car sounds very good now, I only have a 210bhp D5 but I do get 50mpg and that feels fast, so another 140 on top of that must be amazing,
when you have it on the dyno, please post the read out,
Dave

[jellison]

You will have shed loads of torque though.

Likely next Friday.

[davebb]

yes 440nm last tested may be a bit higher now with 2 1/2" free flow ex pipe,
I can not go to high as it is a 2002 163, the 185 have a larger clutch,
I did think the dmf was on its way out as I was getting some clonking , but I changed the engine mount under the front pulley, and all is now good, you could see on the subframe were the mount had been hitting it,

your torque will be higher than mine now, it will be good to see, were will you be taking it
surrey rolling road ?
Thanks Dave

[jellison]

How doe nm compared to ft/lbs?

[jellison]

https://www.metric-conversions.org/energy-and-power/newton-meters-to-foot-pounds.htm

[davebb]

325ft/lbs,
Dave

[jellison]

Ah OK same as mine pre the cloning of the ecu to good ecu. So yep should be more.

Mind Diesels will give those torque numbers from much lower in rev range.

Seem to be doing 2/3's of mile in it at the moment towing (seems a waste but it is damn good at it).

[davebb]

but your torque keeps coming, the VVT helps your engine, mine starts dropping off at 2800rpm,
Dave

[jellison]

All a trade off you have less performance but a lot better mpg!!

[davebb]

yes it is a big trade off, I would love a R
but I do like the mpg of the D5,
Dave

[jellison]

Some progress!

Original tuner (now he has the software to clone these more difficult ecu's), has successfully copied the engine tune and the imo onto a good SH ME7 ecu.

Was towing when I got to him, so not really to obvious if any change on way home, but following day too for a local drive and yep a definate improvement.

No it does not seem to tie itself in knots now when it gets to 3.5k and not horribly lurchy when on / off throttle now.

Pulls well all the way through the rev range in all gears now. So I am presuming it must have allowed it to go past the previous 1.1 bar point when it was abruptly sending a dodgy signal on reading the MAF or MAP (can't remember). Mind not sure it feel like it has gain masses of top end power. Will see on rollers in next few weeks. Even if it has gained 20-30bhp and is smoother all the way through will keep me happy for a while.

Just turned 100k too last week.

It has alot of towing to do over next two months..............

** Anthony - I'll txt you over next few weeks to pop round to try to sort my 2 Vida's now!! and turn off my bloody Service required crap! Maybe we can log the boost on a drive out in it to see it what it max's out at now.So after a few weeks with the car, during it felt way better, but still not as great as I'd expected(!). Got to the rollers (all my car go same rollers some comparing eggs withs eggs and it is Dastek which is best kind from speaking to people on this).

Up from 293bhp to 310bhp and 325ft/lbs to 345ft/lbs, and drive a lot better. But 310 is still pretty lame considering the amount of boost that is supposed dialled in via the remap. Mind the torque gain is good. From when I bought it to now is a huge improvement. But still not what I was expecting http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/vehicles/volvo/volvo_v70.htm . These numbers are with the std exhaust on the car not the big bore 3" cat back thing I had made. So when factoring that in (IPD clone basically and they say good for 15-16bhp on stock). So something still amiss, even though torque is really good.

Basically the chap running the car on Dyno was saying it felt like the boost is dropping the more revs you give it and this seem to show in that it just flat lines at just over 5k as far as power is concerned all the way past 6.

He felt some of it could be down to the variable vane turbo these cars have where they have trouble holding boost with the revs, but he does think it should be better than it is.

Will have to log the boost with Anthony (ad get my Vida work - maybe!!!!!!!!!!).

If you drive it knowing what the dyno curves look like it is damned fast on a B or A road but on an M-Way you can tell it is still running out of puff much past 5.

Pity there is no one down here (Woking) that I could just give it to. Was some guy near Haslemere but a complete tool when rung and explained had had remap elsewhere and felt car not right, basically told me to bugger off..... (great business acumen).

And taking to Shemtek is a bit of and extreme far to go, at least for now. I'm feeling it is going to be something fairly simple but how to work it ok. So got the torque I was expecting (as developed low down rev range, but not really taken up with big power as you keep the revs rising!).

Bloody great chassis though. And has to be faster than a std one. Did I say how crap it was when I got it.................

[davebb]

Hi I don't think that they have a variable vane turbo , a lot of people have problems with the recirculation valve on the turbo leaking, have you not logged the boost to see what it is doing,
is the air filter good,
Dave

[davebb]

also is the MAF working correctly,
Is the intercooler ok, no leaks,
Dave

[davebb]

Hi I know that you don't want to run a boost gauge,
why don't you go on ebay and get a cheap boost/pressure gauge just for testing,
Dave

[jellison]

I think you are right on the Variable vane - Anthony said as much on a txt.

Will try to get recirculation valve on the turbo checked.

Logging when can get to Anthony's (next week most likely), suggested we check the wastegate setting, and hopefully get my Vida sorted.

MAF I think is fine, cleaned several times.

No leaks from anywhere on car inc Intercooler.

I'll discuss the boost gauge thing with Anthony. But I have not got time or inclination to fit a boost gauge (most look naff to as no RHD nice pod I can find - but more about the fitting - looks complicated (remember I love carbs.....!).

Does make you wonder just how long what ever this daft base issue we eventually find on the car has been like it, I'm guessing half its life or more!

Once we have found the base issue or maybe to fix it, what about these?

https://shop.mambatek.com/Adjustable-Turbo-Actuator-0307-VOLVO-S60R-V70R-K24-53249707400-023-0192.htm

https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Actuator_for_Volvo_S60R_V70R--product--90.html
+ https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Spring_Tuning_Kit_for_Turbo_Actuators--product--132.html

That Turbo look small in the picture!

[jellison]

Also in here https://shop.mambatek.com/Adjustable-Turbo-Actuator-0307-VOLVO-S60R-V70R-K24-53249707400-023-0192.htm

on the image about rod length vs boost pressure. What does all this mean if the boost of the remap has been set to about 1.5-1.55 bar (~22psi).

I never changed any springs or put one of these on my old T5 when mapped at 155k miles and it was totally transformed from pre to post remap.

[davebb]

Hi
with the waste gate actuator the only time that you will need to change it is if you are trying to make higher boost then the Volvo one can manage,
or the turbos standard one can get blown open by the boost of the turbo as the actuator spring tension of the waste gate can not hold the turbos waste gate valve closed,
but you don't want to have to much tension as your cars ECU controls a turbo control valve (another part to check) so it can control boost at all revs and load,
a to large waste gate actuator will hold the valve closed and only open at full boost,
like I say check/change the turbo control valve, as they can leak or stick as it is a solenoid, and the plunger opens and closes to direct boost pressure to the waste gate actuator or back in to the intake/atmosphere ,
this it why you need to see your boost pressure, and also know what it should be, ask the man that mapped it to tell you what boost pressure should be at high boost/load,
and at lower revs, he should tell you this, unless he did not write the map and got a file writing company to write/mod the original BIN file from the ecu, , so please ask him, so you will know, like you say it is most likely 21-22 psi max boost,
as you say that you have no leaks, if you see the boost dropping off to much it could b the turbo boost blowing it own waste gate valve open, waste gate actuator gone week or the pre-load not set correct, use a mityvac pump to check this, look at ipd/youtube on how to do this, or the ecu controlled turbo control valve,
Dave

[davebb]

To see if the turbo boost is blowing the waste gate valve open is to disconnect the boost/vac pipe that fits on the actuator ,block this pipe off, and see if the max boost is higher than it is normally and does not drop of to fast, but you will need to keep a very good eye on the boost pressure and don't let it clime to high, it will go up very fast as there is no boost control,

all standard turbo's boot will drop of as the turbo can only make so much air, that is why people use hybrid turbos,
Dave

[jellison]

Thanks Dave. Did think if the T5 never needed any of that stuff changing and a remap transformed it, then the R should not need it.

Changed the Boost Solenoid not too long back.

Ok will ask mapper. He wrote it.

Well I have no leaks in cooling side. Dyno chaps did say maybe a boost leank, but then went on to say, you likely hear it and the torque low down being so good implies it is at least holding in first half of rev range.

"if you see the boost dropping off to much it could b the turbo boost blowing it own waste gate valve open, waste gate actuator gone week or the pre-load not set correct, use a mityvac pump to check this, look at ipd/youtube on how to do this, or the ecu controlled turbo control valve"

If Boost solenoid new, not likely to be that, then like you say could be the waste gate actuator gone week or the pre-load not set correct.

Will send this thread to mapper and get with Anthony for logging next week.

[jellison]

So there is clearly something not right, somewhere, I don't need to rush out and get a Hybrid turbo!! Well not yet :)

Std one should hold boost through rev range, as per my T5.

[davebb]

ok , I was just going on car makers use small turbos normally so they get boost very low in the rpm but run out of air high in the rev range, then boost starts dropping, but only a small amount ,
but T5 and R,s must have a good size,
what boost do other people get on tuned R,s,
about boost gauge , like I say get a cheap one plumb it in just for testing, Then remove it,
when you have the car working well,

Boost leak , you say No leaks at the cooling side, Do you mean The Intercooler,
Dave

[jellison]

ok , I was just going on car makers use small turbos normally so they get boost very low in the rpm but run out of air high in the rev range, then boost starts dropping, but only a small amount ,
but T5 and R,s must have a good size,
what boost do other people get on tuned R,s,
about boost gauge , like I say get a cheap one plumb it in just for testing, Then remove it,
when you have the car working well,

Boost leak , you say No leaks at the cooling side, Do you mean The Intercooler,
DaveI was meaning no leaks visible on the coolant side of the engine (i.e. intercooler / rad and associated piping).

Lots of pipes in front the engine, with ££££ty or no clamps on. Generally if any of these off you / feel straight away with crap idle and an engine warning light (like when one fell off on way back from mappers few weeks back), engine light on, but found a line fallen off, reconnected and crap idle sorted, but had to get friendly mechanic to resent the engine light then fine again). I have looked at most of the easy to get to hoses in this front area of the engine and where no clamps (most of the hoses!), put a very small tie wrap on so can't come back off.

I think Lee said his car was mapped for about the same as mine 1.55 / 22-23ish, std is 1.1 bar (16psi). Good call on boost gauge just connected under bonnet somewhere temporary - I'll ask Anthony how this is plumbed.

Found this:-

https://novom.ru/en/watch/MK6V3G-yfh8

R engine is B5234T4 V70R AWD so base wastegate setting 1.8psi.

Sounds like mine could be set to Tight (i.e. boost ramps up fast but then is not sustained later in rev range) – but what does that mean to much psi before it moved or too little?

For performance add 1-2 psi on top of the base setting so 2.8 – 3.8psi.

[Ric@rdo]

If you adjust the wastegate it will afect the tune. Keep that in mind ;)
Before starting to work on the datalogging and tuning my car, my tuner asked me to unplug the TCV and do a pull in 3rd gear. The reading on the boost gauge should be between 6.5 and 7psi. If it was below, to tighten the wastegate, if it was above to loose it a bit. Please note that this is for a K24 turbo.

[davebb]

like I say you don't want it set to tight you need it set right, as the ecu controls the boost,

with old turbo cars you just set for max boost, but for ecu controlled cars you set it up to the correct pe-load setting then the ecu controls boost at all revs and load, that is how it can be remapped now days,
have you got a mityvac pump gauge, or do you know anyone with one, you need this for testing and setting up the actuator, so if you have not got one , I would get one, and you can use this as your boost gauge for testing,

anyway let me know how you get on, if you fancy a trip to Emsworh , I will help you,
and I do have a mityvac pump,

I am going to log my air/fuel ratio on my 2002 D5 today, I have a Innovate LM-2 Gauge ,
as the 2002 D5 does not have a O2 sensor,
Dave

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I wouldn't trust visually checking for leaks if there's a problem that might be down to a boost leak! Even a connection that looks good, with a good condition clip, cold still be opening up under boost. For very little cost you could get a garage to do a smoke test, which I believe is one of the most accurate ways to trace any leaks in the system. Even if it's not the cause of the problem, it's almost worth doing for the peace of mind that at least all the pipework is OK and holding boost.

[jellison]

Thanks chaps. Next step is log it then see what we find.

The take from there. Not a fan of modern cars really, well in terms of working on them.

Ecu’s are the devils work.

See what we find and if get goo pointers give to some to try to fix those issues.

[jellison]

Spoke with Shem and sent him the power curve and what has been done to it. Custom Catback and shimmed head. So std bar the extra security of the head mod.

He said it is not that far from what he'd expect, i.e they do pretty much flat line in power after 5k! Er great. Kind of the opposite of my old T5, no where near the low down torque / power / and really only coming only boost and pulling through to 6k from about 4. Just different engines, even though they are very similar!!

So all this talk of putting on a catback and down pipe and a remap on an otherwise car and making 370+bhp is pretty much balls.

Sounds like to get there you first need a bigger intercooller and a 2nd remap for that to take the lower charge temps into account, then on top of that a bigger turbo to get more power and higher up (but maybe loose torque).

So gonna have mine fully checked over and get mapped for as good as it can be with what I have (think some of the lumpiness I have can be smoothered out and maybe a tad more power eeked. That will have to do (for now). It is awesome for towing with all that grunt from low 2's to about 4k (i.e. towing zone).

Got one of the toys to Mallory on Sunday and back
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCCEVm1JpUs&t=2s"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCCEVm1JpUs&t=2s and off for touring round France for a week next Monday.

[davebb]

Hi Jon
so you are going to get it mapped again ? is this by some one different ?
Dave

[jellison]

SHEMTEK, and a full engine check over on engine.

[davebb]

are shemtek tuning better then the one you have used, are you getting a refund from the last tuner,
Dave