So I want more boost.

[Mart5in]

tldr; see post title :biggrin:

However, I'm going to focus on changing my suspension and brakes before I look at remap/chip.

So, to the point, ball and spring MBC. How does work? what's the best way to go about setting one up.

also, most importantly, is it safe? does it even work? if it does I would assume that if I increased the pressure too much the ECU will just deny power or limp?

How do I fit it, do I remove the electronic boost solenoid and replace it with the MBC, but leave it electrically connected for the ECU to be happy?

It's just that the standard 225hp (2.3 T5) feels a bit flat and dull.


It's at 183,000 miles so it's ripe for tuning :haha:


Thanks for your responses in advance.

p.s I've already researched extensively but I can't find a definitive answer.

[MoleT-5R]

you are right about to much boost, as the standard ecu will cut the boost if goes to high, a re-mapped ecu will have this raised or removed. I have used a forge unos boost controller on mine, the electronic one is still connected to the wiring only and the feed to the unos comes from the turbo compressor housing and goes back to the actuator. As for setting it up, I was taught to set it to 0 to start with and check the boost pressure, then if the boost is low it may be the actuator is weak/knackered or it just needs some adjustment, it can be adjusted by tightening the rod up to raise the boost till you get to standard pressure. Now you can start to turn up the boost controller a click or two at a time maximum, take it for a run a see what pressure you are now getting, then a click or two more and re-check again and slow build up to what you wish to run. Obviously I don't need to tell you to be very careful doing this as you don't want to bending a rod.
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b526/MoleT5R/Moles%20T5%20R%20Project%20Olive/DSCN3480_zps6emunzrr.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/MoleT5R/media/Moles%20T5%20R%20Project%20Olive/DSCN3480_zps6emunzrr.jpg.html)
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b526/MoleT5R/Moles%20T5%20R%20Project%20Olive/DSCN3481_zpsxyktbckk.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/MoleT5R/media/Moles%20T5%20R%20Project%20Olive/DSCN3481_zpsxyktbckk.jpg.html)

[Mart5in]

Hmm yes I see.

What's the standard boost supposed to be? I know all engines are different, but what boost level is definitely a no go for rods? If I'm at a higher rpm, isn't there less chance of rod bending? I take it this is where I'd need some sort of electronic boost controller separate to the cars own one?

[claymore]

I run my daily car with just a bleed valve at 21psi, it's all about not letting it boost to early.

[MoleT-5R]

I run my daily car with just a bleed valve at 21psi, it's all about not letting it boost to early.

as Colin says, you can run high boosts in standard rodded engines, but you do not want to boot it in 3rd and above below 3000-3500 rpm, as this seems to be where the rods let go. Personally I don't boot it below 3500 in most gears, with first being the exception when drag racing and then the rest of the changes are then above my self imposed limit, so all fine. It's been doing it regularly for over 4 years now so must be ok

[oblark]

as Colin says, you can run high boosts in standard rodded engines, but you do not want to boot it in 3rd and above below 3000-3500 rpm, as this seems to be where the rods let go. Personally I don't boot it below 3500 in most gears, with first being the exception when drag racing and then the rest of the changes are then above my self imposed limit, so all fine. It's been doing it regularly for over 4 years now so must be ok

There is always the exception to the rule.

30077

[Mart5in]

I'm pretty gentle and progressive with the throttle anyway, I personally find it gives me better traction :B_thumb:

If I'm gonna be booting it, I'll be well above 3500 rpm :B_steerin

Not sure what this engine is like compared to later ones (in terms of bottom end, I know about vvt etc), but my 2001 (V70) ME7 is about 19PSi and it goes like hell! Can't remember where the map came from though...

Thanks for all the input so far.

[Saaamon]

The cost of a shem map isn't much more than a forge uno.

[Mart5in]

The cost of a shem map isn't much more than a forge uno.

I have no idea how much either of those things are haha - I'm new to owning Volvos and Turbos! You got a ballpark figure for those?

I've got an "OBD-II" port under the coin tray, but I'm pretty sure my ECU will be a motronic 4.3.
also, slightly off topic here but do 850's have immobilisers? can you swap ECU's from another 850 etc.

[MoleT-5R]

There is always the exception to the rule.

30077

you sir are an exception to the rule, when does the new engine go in Rob ???

[MoleT-5R]

The cost of a shem map isn't much more than a forge uno.

about £65 shipped for the mbc, a shem map would be a good addition too, I'm guessing about £120 for that....??


I have no idea how much either of those things are haha - I'm new to owning Volvos and Turbos! You got a ballpark figure for those?

I've got an "OBD-II" port under the coin tray, but I'm pretty sure my ECU will be a motronic 4.3.
also, slightly off topic here but do 850's have immobilisers? can you swap ECU's from another 850 etc.

ecu's can be swapped between certain models and years with no issues, some work some don't. There are lists for whats what ecu wise and you could have the immobiliser removed to get an ecu to work with your car if it is an issue, but if your going to have to pay someone to tweak an ecu to getting to work in your car, you may as well get your cars original ecu remapped to start with imho.

[Mart5in]

Yeah I would just get the original ECU mapped. I'm not short of cars so wouldn't be a problem sending the ECU away.

My only worry would be the miles on the engine. it's high miles. Saying that, the oil is still golden in colour and I know it's been looked after. I'm sure it would be fine at 300 odd hp.

I'll have a look more into the ECU's I think.

I don't suppose I would need an MBC if I got the car mapped!

[oblark]

you sir are an exception to the rule, when does the new engine go in Rob ???

The forged ME7 engine should be going in the spring.

But I mite be fitting a different head before it goes in :)

[claymore]

Yeah I would just get the original ECU mapped. I'm not short of cars so wouldn't be a problem sending the ECU away.

My only worry would be the miles on the engine. it's high miles. Saying that, the oil is still golden in colour and I know it's been looked after. I'm sure it would be fine at 300 odd hp.

I'll have a look more into the ECU's I think.


I don't suppose I would need an MBC if I got the car mapped!


My engine had 210k miles on it before I started tuning it. I use a custom hlm map and a bleed valve on my T-5R

[Mart5in]

My engine had 210k miles on it before I started tuning it. I use a custom hlm map and a bleed valve on my T-5R

I know it'll probably be fine, I'm just being paranoid. My friends V70 died after a map - to be fair I don't think it was treated well by previous owners.

Right, well I have a slight blow in the exhaust, so I think in the new year I'll be ordering a downpipe with high flow cat, and making a cat-back exhaust. What's the standard intercooler good for power wise?

Going to do my suspension and brakes first anyway.

[LeeT5]

tldr; see post title :biggrin:

However, I'm going to focus on changing my suspension and brakes before I look at remap/chip.

So, to the point, ball and spring MBC. How does work? what's the best way to go about setting one up?

also, most importantly, is it safe? does it even work? if it does I would assume that if I increased the pressure too much the ECU will just deny power or limp?

How do I fit it, do I remove the electronic boost solenoid and replace it with the MBC, but leave it electrically connected for the ECU to be happy?

It's just that the standard 225hp (2.3 T5) feels a bit flat and dull.


It's at 183,000 miles so it's ripe for tuning :haha:

p.s I've already researched extensively but I can't find a definitive answer.

I assume you've at least carried out a 'Stage 0' and checked that the engine is breathing properly? At 183k, unless it's been serviced properly as per Volvo maintenance schedule, I doubt very much that the car's PCV system will be free flowing and one way check valves functioning 100%.
Replacing suspension, brakes and bushes is always a very wise move before modifications to the engine that potentially make the car faster. With all the extra power you need to be able to control it!
Are they safe? Good question. Of course they are safe....but if installed incorrectly they can destroy your engine. You must have a boost gauge installed first before you fit one, otherwise you'll not have a clue what's going on until it's too late.
Depending how strong your engine is, you may already do damage before the car get's a chance to go into limp mode. After all, Limp mode is only a state determined by the ECM because certain conditions have been exceeded. This state may already be too late, if you bend a rod in the process of the car's electronics determining that state!

Have you rolling roaded your car to see what it's current output is?
You say your car feels flat and dull....Have you replaced your BCS for a new one? They are a common failure and a new one can transform the car!



Hmm yes I see.

What's the standard boost supposed to be? I know all engines are different, but what boost level is definitely a no go for rods? If I'm at a higher rpm, isn't there less chance of rod bending? I take it this is where I'd need some sort of electronic boost controller separate to the cars own one?

Stock boost on a T5 is about 8-9psi (IIRC)


I have no idea how much either of those things are haha - I'm new to owning Volvos and Turbos! You got a ballpark figure for those?

I've got an "OBD-II" port under the coin tray, but I'm pretty sure my ECU will be a motronic 4.3.
also, slightly off topic here but do 850's have immobilisers? can you swap ECU's from another 850 etc.

Yes 850's do have immobilisers.


Yeah I would just get the original ECU mapped. I'm not short of cars so wouldn't be a problem sending the ECU away.

My only worry would be the miles on the engine. it's high miles. Saying that, the oil is still golden in colour and I know it's been looked after. I'm sure it would be fine at 300 odd hp.

I'll have a look more into the ECU's I think.

I don't suppose I would need an MBC if I got the car mapped!


I know it'll probably be fine, I'm just being paranoid. My friends V70 died after a map - to be fair I don't think it was treated well by previous owners.

Right, well I have a slight blow in the exhaust, so I think in the new year I'll be ordering a downpipe with high flow cat, and making a cat-back exhaust. What's the standard intercooler good for power wise?

Going to do my suspension and brakes first anyway.

You've every right to be paranoid about fitting a MBC. From my experience, you're better off with a remap. They can be had for as little as £200 and will include proper control of the car's boost, throttle, torque request etc etc, rather than a MBC that does nothing other than try to fool the ECM and if installed incorrectly....:blowingup

Stock IC's are prone to failure. Due to the side of the IC being made of plastic, over time the plastic becomes hard and brittle and they can, and do, crack.

Sounds like you're going to be busy, replacing the suspension and brakes followed by the DP and exhaust. Not to mention a stage 0 and PCV change!!
I wouldn't entertain a remap until you've at least done a stage 0, new BCS, brakes and suspension and any worn bushes, sort the exhaust blow (probably the manifold nuts, as they always come loose on the Off side)
Would be worth a smoke leak test too, just to eliminate any boost leaks or potential cracked IC.

Food for thought!!! :confused:

[Mart5in]

Yes!

The clip behind the MAF was loose, it's had a new maf recently by the looks of things, so it must have been sooking in air. it feels loads better now. doesn't feel as flat. I've noticed the "lambda light" doesn't come on with the ignition so I need a new bulb for that.

The boost gauge I had showed around 10Psi - I don't trust it, as on my last car it used to go off the end so the calibration is probably out. (I'm talking 35Psi on a guage that shows 25 as the max ahah). The in car gauge goes pretty much exactly half way into the white area and it sits dead still all the way to the red line so I'm happy there's no leaks. :)

I'ts been serviced religiously throughout it's whole life, at Volvo. I know the previous owner. The oil isn't even dark.
Suspension bushes are all in good condition, no signs of cracking and no play in them. It's had new lower arms recently too by the looks of things. I've just got old saggy springs. I'll be changing all the bolts that hold the hub to the strut, ball joint pinch bolt, caliper bolts etc.

In the new year I will service it myself though so I know 100% what's been done.

I put a large cone air filter on it, the standard panel paper one was a little bit dirty.

Thanks for all that, I have a long list of things!

I agree, everyone should do suspension and brakes etc before power. What's the point in going fast if you can't stop? Just found out today that I have a tyre on the wrong way around. The "inside" is on the outside. D'oh

[LeeT5]

Ohhh, that'll be nasty in the wet!

[Mart5in]

Ohhh, that'll be nasty in the wet!

Yeah, the other 3 tyres don't match either! So they'll be getting changed. Grip in the wet isn't too bad at normal speeds. Just less room for fun.