Turbo swap or new car, that is the question...

[Alex.]

Hi Guys,

A while back I had a lack of power problem with my Saffron 1999 C70 T5 GT, with a manual box - http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?59302-C70-T5-Boost-Problem
The last entry in the thread above I was about to change the TCV, that did not fix the problem.

Life got in the way and as the car was (still is) drivable, I put thoughts of top end power to the back of my mind.
Anyway, I had the chance to engage in a bit of diagnostic work with a local mechanic with a dyno and it does not look good.

The dyno chart looks like a normally aspirated engine, nice straight curve up to 177bhp. :-(
Boost pressure is only holding at 4 psi and there is some noticeable wear in one of the shafts. He did say that the engine itself feels good and strong, which is a bonus.
Something suggested as a possible problem is the standard dump valve, if the internal diaphragm is split then the boost pressure will not be held. I'm not familiar with the internal workings, but is this feasible?

So it is either the dump valve or turbo and I have a choice to make.
Do I take the opportunity to change cars to one with less problems? This car does have a few issues, I made the mistake of making a list... A replacement would probably be the newest, cleanest V40 I could find for a grand.

If I was to replace the turbo, where would I get one from?
I am reluctant to just buy a second hand unit with the doubt over whether it is sound and how long it would last. Where would I obtain a new or reconditioned unit, safe in the knowledge that it is not a cheap chinese knock off and will bolt straight on?

Then there is the option of sourcing a 19T rather than a 16T and using it as an excuse for a remap. Although that is further expense that I can't really afford...

I am conflicted!
It might come down to being able to source a reliable turbo to make this decision.

Alex.

[MaxTS]

Usually it is pretty obvious if a turbo is broken- there will be smoke or loud whining. Even then they still create boost, not far off what they should be creating!

Your's sounds like a boost leak or a wastegate issue.

Boost leaks usually leave a misting of oil around the leak. Common places are intercooler seal (where the ali bit meets the plastic tank) and Vac lines.

The other issue could be the diaphragm of the waste gate has a split in it causing it to not function properly and effectivly not work at all or as mentioned the BOV.

It really just needs some diagnosing as i bet it will be a really cheap fix!

[ExternalError]

if its only making 4psi I'd be looking for a boost leak, start with the main silicon hose connectors starting with the top of the turbo to the intercooler then the intercooler to the throttle body are on tight and there are no splits. If this hasn't resolved your issue see if you can get it smoke tested this will show any leaks like a split in the intercooler or any of the hard plastic pipework. that's the cheap diagnostics out the way after that its down to the scrappy for a replacement waste gate actuator and also a turbo off job to see if there's any issue with the waste gate itself

[MaxTS]

Also just think of how quick it would feel after the fix, you'd get another 70 odd bhp.

[claymore]

Yep, if you can't find an obvious boost leak I'd be looking at the recirc valve.

[Biff]

If you can't find a boost leak the cheapest way to change your re-circ is a blanking plate off eBay. £16 & will sound brilliant.

[Alex.]

You've all convinced me, I want to fix this car! So this Friday (first opportunity) I will be looking at the recirc valve.


If you can't find a boost leak the cheapest way to change your re-circ is a blanking plate off eBay. £16 & will sound brilliant.

Can I just replace the standard valve with one of these blanking plates and drive without a BOV?
I have been reading various sources that say it is fine to drive with just the blanking plate as the boost is not particularly high. Just to test the diagnosis, before replacing the faulty part.

Alex.

[martin_r_smith]

it will be fine to drive. It will also make lovely turbo fluttery noises to if thats to your liking.

[PNuT]

I always use some additional sealant on these blanking plates, I spent a lot of money & time looking for a boost leak because of one of those things a few years ago!

I would assume reading the other thread & the wastegate chirping when changing gear this is already referring to the fluttery noise anyway which would suggest the BOV isn't working correctly....

I would check the hose that feeds the BOV first....

I have a nearly brand new stock BOV in my garage ;)

[Biff]

You've all convinced me, I want to fix this car! So this Friday (first opportunity) I will be looking at the recirc valve.



Can I just replace the standard valve with one of these blanking plates and drive without a BOV?
I have been reading various sources that say it is fine to drive with just the blanking plate as the boost is not particularly high. Just to test the diagnosis, before replacing the faulty part.

Alex.
I've run 2 cars now with blanking plates & no issues.
Mine were pre me7 (with a throttle cable not fly by wire like yours) although yours is me7 it may chuck the odd wobbler, not entirely sure as I've avoided the later models for the fussy behaviour they can show.
I know you can buy an uprated re-circ from forge motorsport should it give you a big headache.

[Biff]

I always use some additional sealant on these blanking plates, I spent a lot of money & time looking for a boost leak because of one of those things a few years ago!

I would assume reading the other thread & the wastegate chirping when changing gear this is already referring to the fluttery noise anyway which would suggest the BOV isn't working correctly....

I would check the hose that feeds the BOV first....

I have a nearly brand new stock BOV in my garage ;)
I think he is referring to the re-circ as the dump valve as Volvo never fitted one as standard.

[Spawned66]

I've run 2 cars now with blanking plates & no issues.
Mine were pre me7 (with a throttle cable not fly by wire like yours) although yours is me7 it may chuck the odd wobbler, not entirely sure as I've avoided the later models for the fussy behaviour they can show.
I know you can buy an uprated re-circ from forge motorsport should it give you a big headache.

I have a 99 C70 ME7 and just have the Forge blanking plate on mine. No faults ever came up and like you said it does have the nice Chirping sound.

[PNuT]

Its one & the same thing... designed to release boost pressure & keep the turbo spinning rather than stalling which is what the fluttering noise is....

The one Volvo & Mitsubishi fit just recirculates the released air rather than venting it to the atmosphere :)

[Alex.]

Thanks guys,
I've ordered a blanking plate and will extract the dump/recirc valve soon and see what condition it is in. Although I'll probably just fit the plate if it is here in time!

PNuT, if it is the recirc valve, would you be interested in swapping your nearly new one for some pictures of the queen?

Alex.

[PNuT]

I am sure we can sort something out :)

[jamesy12345]

Even if it did need a new turbo, if the rest of the car is in good nick & you like it, replace the turbo & you will love it after that! Your car isn't common at all now, if you can find another one go for it! Otherwise fix it :D

But hope the fault is a minor one & it gets resolved to your liking

[Alex.]

Well it's not the dump valve. Replaced it with the blanking plate and there is no difference.
No extra acceleration and torque is still reporting the same boost pressure.

Anyone know a decent garage in the north kent area to do a smoke leak test?

Alex.

[M-R-P]

I wouldn't rely on torque to give you an accurate boost reading. Get yourself a proper gauge.

[stribo]

If there are no obvious leaks, I would be looking at the actuator (in fact I am, as I have the same problem with mine), if it's tired, it may be opening too early.

[PNuT]

I suppose I could send him one of those as well!

[PNuT]

p.s did you use any additional sealant?

[Alex.]

I wouldn't rely on torque to give you an accurate boost reading. Get yourself a proper gauge.

I only used Torque as I had used it to get an indicative reading back in March. The reading was the same as before the dump valve blanking plate (6psi), which leads me to believe that the dump was working. The dyno guy said that the boost was holding at 4psi...


If there are no obvious leaks, I would be looking at the actuator (in fact I am, as I have the same problem with mine), if it's tired, it may be opening too early.

That would be the next thing to try, before a full up turbo replacement.


I suppose I could send him one of those as well!

As I can't simply blank off the wastegate, would you be prepared to sell (or loan... :B_thumb:) me your spare wastegate to try?


p.s did you use any additional sealant?

I did put some sealant around the o-rings, just in case...

Browsing ebay, there appears to be a seller in Germany that has 16Ts for £210. Would these be the cheap Chinese versions and would they actually be worth using?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262078121580?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or even a company based up in the West Midlands at £126.75!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200498431254?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Alex.

[PNuT]

first question is what is the exact number of your engine?

B5234T6

in that format if you can!

There are a number of ways to check the wastegate without changing it! the first you must be very very careful doing! especially at low rpm!

if you disconnect the pressure pipe from the bottom of the turbo to the TCV/BCS you will get all the boost your turbo can muster! ULTRA CAREFUL! you will soon know if your turbo is boosting!

to check its opening pressure connect that pipe directly to the wastegate actuator & that will give you a clue to its opening pressure as it will just hold the boost it is set at! I would try this first!

4psi sounds like the actuator pressure!

have you had the codes checked?

I wouldnt rule out a blocked cat at the moment either!

[claymore]

It's not going to be the turbo, mine was completely knackered and still boosted to 22psi, either your waistgate is stuck open (take the waistgate arm off the turbo and make sure the flap moves freely)

this was my knackered turbo,



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmJbuOO9zFg

[kmb]

That's like a Penelope Pitstop smokescreen button... cool but not something I want to see on my car :lol:

[ExternalError]

you should try driving behind him for the 1st 20 miles of a trip to shell island after he fixed it as it still smoked while burning the oil off the cat

[PNuT]

It's not going to be the turbo



No, I wouldn't expect it is a problem with the turbo itself but it does need a few things to be right for it to spool & produce compressed air....

I would assume the Waste gate actuator is doing something as it is holding a nice steady 4psi on the rolling road...

connecting the boost hose directly to the wastegate actuator will tell us the opening pressure of the wastegate actuator, if this doesn't change the car at all then it is most likely an issue with the turbo control circuit it self....if it still boosts but much less than the factory specified opening psi of the wastegate actuator then we should know it either needs adjusted or a new actuator...

running the turbo without the pressure pipe connected is just to check we have enough exhaust gas flowing for the turbo to spool properly & produce compressed air! obviously if the wastegate is stuck open this will prove nothing but I wouldn't expect much boost if that was the case....

[Alex.]

first question is what is the exact number of your engine?

B5234T6

in that format if you can!

Almost... I know it is a B5234T and 3, I think.
Definitely a T5 engine with ME7.


There are a number of ways to check the wastegate without changing it! the first you must be very very careful doing! especially at low rpm!

if you disconnect the pressure pipe from the bottom of the turbo to the TCV/BCS you will get all the boost your turbo can muster! ULTRA CAREFUL! you will soon know if your turbo is boosting!

to check its opening pressure connect that pipe directly to the wastegate actuator & that will give you a clue to its opening pressure as it will just hold the boost it is set at! I would try this first!

4psi sounds like the actuator pressure!

have you had the codes checked?

I wouldnt rule out a blocked cat at the moment either!

I'll have a check of the wastegate, hopefully without busting something else! :B_thumb:

Alex.

[PNuT]

actuator pressure for your vehicle if B5234T3 is 4.35psi.......

[Alex.]

actuator pressure for your vehicle if B5234T3 is 4.35psi.......

Is the actuator in the wastegate?
I understand the fundamentals of how a turbo, wastegate and dump valve work, how does the actuator fit in?

If it is looking likely that one of the items attached to the turbo is at fault and that the turbo is possibly the original one, that has done 151k miles, would it be worth buying the £126 turbo assembly from ebay (link in previous post) and fitting that?

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

Is the actuator in the wastegate?
I understand the fundamentals of how a turbo, wastegate and dump valve work, how does the actuator fit in...

the actuator is the cylinder that sits above the turbo cold side, with an arm connected to the wastegate. Inside is a piston that moves the arm depending on pressure sent to the actuator by the BCS

Gold thing in this photo:

http://volvoforums.com/forum/attachments/volvo-850-16/7230d1352854615-volvo-850-turbo-v70r-ecu-wastegate-actuator-arm.jpg

[PNuT]

Unless you are using excessive oil I would keep the turbo you have!

It may be you have a code hidden & the ecu is not allowing the turbo to boost to the proper level...

for instance my car recently has been throwing code 2-3-1 fuel trim because I have the wrong injectors fitted, it boosts properly for one journey & then the ecu stops boost above actuator pressure.... once I reset the codes it works again!

It hasn't brought the engine management light on for this error though!

[Alex.]

the actuator is the cylinder that sits above the turbo cold side, with an arm connected to the wastegate. Inside is a piston that moves the arm depending on pressure sent to the actuator by the BCS


Ah, enlightenment dawns!
So if the actuator has an activation pressure of 4.35psi, how does that correlate to a boost pressure of 15psi?
Or indeed, the boost only holding 4psi....

Alex.

[Alex.]

Unless you are using excessive oil I would keep the turbo you have!

It may be you have a code hidden & the ecu is not allowing the turbo to boost to the proper level...


Oil consumption has not changed in years, she uses some but not excessive.

During the diagnostic dyno session, the mech read the codes and said there was nothing relevant.
I have had the ABC/TRACS lights and codes, so that is another job I need to get round to...

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

Ah, enlightenment dawns!
So if the actuator has an activation pressure of 4.35psi, how does that correlate to a boost pressure of 15psi?
Or indeed, the boost only holding 4psi....

Alex.

I tried to find a decent link with some pictures (for my benefit as much as anyone's) but didn't so hope this makes sense

When the ECU/map wants the wastegate closed, the BCS sends zero (gauge) pressure to the actuator

When wastegate is required to be open, the BCS bleeds off boost pressure down a level sufficient to overcome the pressure set by the actuator spring (4/5 psi)

If 16/17/18 psi equivalent spring was used, & no BCS, it would be more difficult to control the boost - it would be more on/off response from the turbo rather than being progressive

Probably.

//edit

http://www.renault-5.net/shemas_turbo1.htm#animation

good animation above showing how it works without BCS...although on most cars the throttle body is after the turbo..!

[PNuT]

What I don't think has been mentioned is being an Me7 car you should have a MAP sensor....

If that is faulty & giving the ecu the wrong reading ie the 4psi you are getting is reading 10psi then the ecu thinks everything is fine & dandy!

no codes & 4psi steady!

[Alex.]

That was a productive drive home from work! :B_thumb:

I connected the pipe from the bottom of the turbo to the wastegate, torque reported just over 5psi. So this is consistent with previous times when 4 psi was reported as about 6.

Then put the wastegate pipe back on and left the pipe from the bottom of the turbo open to the air.
Moderate application of the throttle and a close eye on torques gauge.... I have a TURBO car!!
A pressure of 12 psi reported, but only for a short time and not full throttle.

Does this mean I need a new wastegate? Much cheaper than a turbo. :banana:

Alex.

[claymore]

are you certain you have the pips the correct way around on the tcv?

[Alex.]

are you certain you have the pips the correct way around on the tcv?

I had the same thought myself last night! So I fired up the old unreliable (XP) laptop and checked Vadis.
According to the figure there, my pipes are connected correctly.

Top of the TCV to the bottom of the turbo.
Middle of the TCV to the wastegate.
Bottom of the TCV to the dump valve.

Alex.

[claymore]

Are you sure, that isn't how it is on a pre me7, but I don't know this modern stuff, I would just put an mbc on it :), I never use the tbc's on any of my engines :)

[Alex.]

Are you sure, that isn't how it is on a pre me7, but I don't know this modern stuff, I would just put an mbc on it :), I never use the tbc's on any of my engines :)

That is how they were connected when I had full power and it also matches the Vadis diagram....

29818

Alex.

[PNuT]

That was a productive drive home from work! :B_thumb:




Does this mean I need a new wastegate? Much cheaper than a turbo. :banana:

Alex.


no, it means your waste gate is fine

it means for some reason the ecu is limiting boost & sending all the turbos pressure directly to the waste gate rather than bleeding some off!

I am not too hot on ME7 engines either but would suspect you may have an issue with the MAP sensor & it thinking you have more boost than you have!

[PNuT]

Are you sure, that isn't how it is on a pre me7, but I don't know this modern stuff, I would just put an mbc on it :), I never use the tbc's on any of my engines :)

ME7 engines are not keen on that sort of thing! mbc's atmospheric dumps & decats & its dummy spitting time!

[claymore]

ME7 engines are not keen on that sort of thing! mbc's atmospheric dumps & decats & its dummy spitting time!
Yes, I keep forgetting that you can't do anything with ME7, I'm glad I've got a throttle cable :)

[claymore]

Hang on, is the center pipe off the tcb supposed to go to the recirc valve on me7, or does it go post maf like on the older cars, I'm sure the recirc should have a feed from the intake manifold.

[PNuT]

Yes, I keep forgetting that you can't do anything with ME7, I'm glad I've got a throttle cable :)

I agree, I am currently considering transplanting my old one into a newer one... maybe even a phase 2

that would upset rob in the local volvo parts department! he isn't keen on interchanging stuff!! what on earth he would make of your T10 project!!

[stribo]

Hang on, is the center pipe off the tcb supposed to go to the recirc valve on me7, or does it go post maf like on the older cars, I'm sure the recirc should have a feed from the intake manifold.

It goes post MAF, like the older cars.

[claymore]

It goes post MAF, like the older cars.

Best get that sorted first, so recirc would possibly be constantly open without boost pressure to keep it closed.

[Alex.]

Best get that sorted first, so recirc would possibly be constantly open without boost pressure to keep it closed.

Erm, while it might be that the pipe to the recirc valve should not come from the TCV, it is currently sitting in my garage. I changed it for a blanking plate last Friday.

Alex.

[claymore]

so, where is the middle pipe going to at the moment?

[claymore]

I also in the back of my mind seem to remember about the picture of the bcs pipework being the wrong way around, it might be worth just swapping the topp and bottom pipe over.

[jamesy12345]

Just found a nice picture, a bit late I know

http://www.wothrline.com/images/Engine/TCV_Bosch_ME7.bmp

//edit:

couple of daft ones:

have you capped the hose that went to the recric valve
is the TCV upside down (should be electrical connector side to compressor)
is the new TCV knackered...?

[jamesy12345]

...
have you capped the hose* that went to the recric valve...

*by that I meant the hose labelled 'bypass valve' in the diagram below

http://volvoforums.com/forum/attachments/volvo-850-16/8342d1364946239-850-turbo-low-boost-vacuum-line-routing-engine.jpg

[Alex.]

no, it means your waste gate is fine

it means for some reason the ecu is limiting boost & sending all the turbos pressure directly to the waste gate rather than bleeding some off!

That makes sense, thinking about the operation of the turbo and wastegate.


I am not too hot on ME7 engines either but would suspect you may have an issue with the MAP sensor & it thinking you have more boost than you have!

Should be able to check/test the sensors.

Alex.

[Alex.]

so, where is the middle pipe going to at the moment?

The pipe that connected to the dump valve has been capped with a bolt and cable tie, so it should not leak...

Alex.

[Alex.]

Just found a nice picture, a bit late I know

http://www.wothrline.com/images/Engine/TCV_Bosch_ME7.bmp

//edit:

couple of daft ones:

have you capped the hose that went to the recric valve
is the TCV upside down (should be electrical connector side to compressor)
is the new TCV knackered...?

Cool, that diagram corresponds with how I thought they would be connected.
The recirc valve pipe has been capped and should not leak.
The TCV is the right way up and was brand new from Volvo without any change in the engine operation.

Alex.

[Alex.]

I will check that the recirc/MAF hose is connected correctly.

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

I had the same thought myself last night! So I fired up the old unreliable (XP) laptop and checked Vadis.
According to the figure there, my pipes are connected correctly.

Top of the TCV to the bottom of the turbo.
Middle of the TCV to the wastegate.
Bottom of the TCV to the dump valve.

Alex.



The pipe that connected to the dump valve has been capped with a bolt and cable tie, so it should not leak...

Alex.

sorry just for my understanding - previously you had the (blue) outlet of the TCV connected to recirc valve. Now you have fitted a blanking plate. Do you mean you have capped off the hose out of the TCV (the one that should go to turbo inlet pipe)...?

[Alex.]

sorry just for my understanding - previously you had the (blue) outlet of the TCV connected to recirc valve. Now you have fitted a blanking plate. Do you mean you have capped off the hose out of the TCV (the one that should go to turbo inlet pipe)...?

That is the thing to check tomorrow, I think that the pipe to the recirc valve does not come from the TCV.
I have capped the pipe from the recirc valve, not the TCV.

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

That is the thing to check tomorrow, I think that the pipe to the recirc valve does not come from the TCV.
I have capped the pipe from the recirc valve, not the TCV.

Alex.

OK - the hose connected to the recirc valve should come from the inlet manifold as in the diagram above..not if you have blanked the valve off though obviously. I was just wondering if the bleed off for the TCV was blocked

[Alex.]

All three pipes are connected to the TCV, only the end that was connected to the recirc valve is not as Volvo intended.

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

All three pipes are connected to the TCV, only the end that was connected to the recirc valve is not as Volvo intended.

Alex.

The recirc valve needs boost pressure to operate, so a hose from TCV to the recirc valve would stop the TCV bleeding off enough pressure (therefore opening the wastegate too early) & probably impair the operation of the recirc

If the same hose is capped off, it will have the same effect - TCV is unable to bleed

[Alex.]

The recirc valve needs boost pressure to operate, so a hose from TCV to the recirc valve would stop the TCV bleeding off enough pressure (therefore opening the wastegate too early) & probably impair the operation of the recirc

If the same hose is capped off, it will have the same effect - TCV is unable to bleed

I have just had a quick look in the works car park and I think we may have found the problem...
The pipe that is capped and was connected to the recirc valve, is also connected to the bottom of the TCV!
So if I connect the correct pipe to the bottom of the TCV, I should (hopefully) have available boost.

Little things are starting to make sense, as these pipes must have been wrong since I rebuilt the top end 3 years ago. I thought that there was decent power after the rebuild, but that may have been the weeks driving the wife's old 1.6 megane and a refreshed engine. There was more turbo noise, the chirping described earlier in this thread, which would have been the dump valve not working.
I am disappointed in myself for getting something so simple/important, so wrong.

I will investigate and correct these pipes this afternoon and then test with a 'quick' trip to Suffolk/Norfolk...

Alex.

[M-R-P]

Me7 tcv...
Metal port connects to the compressor housing.
Opposite port connects to the inlet pipe.
Port at 90 degrees connects to the wastegate actuator.

Recirc is connected to the right of the inlet manifold.

[jamesy12345]

I have just had a quick look in the works car park and I think we may have found the problem...
The pipe that is capped and was connected to the recirc valve, is also connected to the bottom of the TCV!
So if I connect the correct pipe to the bottom of the TCV, I should (hopefully) have available boost.

Little things are starting to make sense, as these pipes must have been wrong since I rebuilt the top end 3 years ago. I thought that there was decent power after the rebuild, but that may have been the weeks driving the wife's old 1.6 megane and a refreshed engine. There was more turbo noise, the chirping described earlier in this thread, which would have been the dump valve not working.
I am disappointed in myself for getting something so simple/important, so wrong.

I will investigate and correct these pipes this afternoon and then test with a 'quick' trip to Suffolk/Norfolk...

Alex.


nothing to be embarrassed I am just learning also. Hopefully that is your easy fix. Yes that TCV outlet needs to go either to fresh air or to the maf/turbo pipe, preferably the latter so you don't have another hole to plug

Got to ask - the hose that should go to the recirc valve, from the inlet manifold as martin mentions above, where does that go now? That is the one which needs to be capped

[Alex.]

nothing to be embarrassed I am just learning also. Hopefully that is your easy fix. Yes that TCV outlet needs to go either to fresh air or to the maf/turbo pipe, preferably the latter so you don't have another hole to plug

Got to ask - the hose that should go to the recirc valve, from the inlet manifold as martin mentions above, where does that go now? That is the one which needs to be capped

Not embarrassed, just disappointed with myself. Also not that I connected the wrong pipes, but that it has taken me THREE YEARS to get round to finding out what I did wrong!

The pipe from the inlet manifold is connected to wherever the pipe from the bottom of the TCV should be connected, so the MAF/turbo pipe... I intend to swap the capped pipe currently connected to the TCV, to the inlet manifold and the pipe currently connected to the inlet manifold, onto the TCV.

Alex.

[claymore]

I think we've finally got to the bottom of your problem.

[jamesy12345]

...I intend to swap the capped pipe currently connected to the TCV, to the inlet manifold and the pipe currently connected to the inlet manifold, onto the TCV.

Alex.

Sounds like a plan :B_thumb:


I think we've finally got to the bottom of your problem.

Hope that sorts it

[PNuT]

Its the problem with diagnosis over the internet!

most of us would have taken one look at the car & new straight away but on the net you just have to assume everything is in its correct place.....

[Alex.]

I think we've finally got to the bottom of your problem.

Almost...
Swapped the pipes over and there is more boost! Just not quite enough.
Torque is reporting 9psi, so that is better than before but there is still something not quite right.

I did hear some strange noises that could be a leak while under hard acceleration, so that is the next place to look. I can only assume that the boost before was not enough to cause the leak to erm, leak!

Alex.

[Biff]

Have you replaced your vac hose with new whilst swapping them around?
If they are old pipes they may have perished.

[kmb]

Also I'm not sure if running them incorrectly may damage the TCV/BCS, I'd definitely replace all the vacuum pipes and also consider getting a new BCS.

[stribo]

It should only run 10 psi as standard , so taking into account the fact that the torque app could be 10% out, you're about right.

[jamesy12345]

A boost gauge would confirm it but sounds not far away as Stribo's comment

Unfortunately your mpg will be worse now but think of all that cash saved over the last few years!!

[Alex.]

Have you replaced your vac hose with new whilst swapping them around?
If they are old pipes they may have perished.

All of the pipes were replaced about 3 years ago and feel in good condition, none perished or hard.

Alex.

[Alex.]

It should only run 10 psi as standard , so taking into account the fact that the torque app could be 10% out, you're about right.

While torque could be 10% or more out, it was reading high before swapping the pipes.
At the same time that the dyno man read 4psi, torque was reading 6psi.

She does not feel as quick or sprightly as before, or even the other day when disconnecting the wastegate.

Alex.

[claymore]

wind the wastegate arm in a couple of turns :)

[Alex.]

wind the wastegate arm in a couple of turns :)

In? Would that be to shorten the actuator arm?
Might do that tomorrow along with refitting the recirc valve.

Alex.

[claymore]

yep, shorten the arm a bit.

[Dream3r]

Torque app is stupidly out on my R.

[Alex.]

Quick update.

I put the recirc valve back on and the driveability is much improved. Whether that is just due to me knowing that it is back on and how it should be working, or a real improvement, is largely irrelevant. I feel better and smoother driving it.

While I was there, I wound the wastegate arm in a couple of turns, really easy to do!
More boost, leading to more top end and (more importantly for me) midrange.

I am booked in for a checkup dyno run on Friday, hopefully with a fit curve... :B_thumb:

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

Good result!

I'll guess at 229 hp at the crank)

[Alex.]

That's a good way to start the morning, a quick local dyno run! :B_thumb:

Not all good news though, only making 206BHP at the crank and something is still not quite right.

29878

The boost pressure also follows the torque curve, with a peak of 14psi and falling back to hold 10psi.
So there is a bit of an overboost. Could this be due to adjusting the wastegate arm and the wastegate not being up to holding the pressure?

Any ideas on how to improve the car further, without lots of spend?

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

That's a good way to start the morning, a quick local dyno run! :B_thumb:

Not all good news though, only making 206BHP at the crank and something is still not quite right.

29878

The boost pressure also follows the torque curve, with a peak of 14psi and falling back to hold 10psi.
So there is a bit of an overboost. Could this be due to adjusting the wastegate arm and the wastegate not being up to holding the pressure?

Any ideas on how to improve the car further, without lots of spend?

Alex.

You are welcomed, sir, to the never ending pursuit of 'steam horses' (HP)!

[Alex.]

You are welcomed, sir, to the never ending pursuit of 'steam horses' (HP)!

At the moment, I would be happy with a correctly working standard car!
More horses and 'torques' would be welcome, but I know that the money is just not there.

Alex.

[jamesy12345]

At the moment, I would be happy with a correctly working standard car!
More horses and 'torques' would be welcome, but I know that the money is just not there.

Alex.

fair do's at least it is heading the right direction though

I was a bit disappointed that my R5 made about 120 hp at the wheels, supposed to be 160 at the crank. I guess after a few decades those horses escape without loads of work

[PNuT]

I thought 10 psi was standard boost or there about....

your actuator is probably a little tight if it is over boosting & then settling down to where it should be...