Advice needed - S60R Sell or Strip or Fix?

[icooney]

I have an S60R which I think 'a conrod' may have gone, it sounds like there is a loose spanner in one cylinder and a metallic squeak!

Questions:

1. Is that what has happened to my engine?
2. Do I just strip and rebuild with stock parts?
3. Do I strip and rebuild forged, darton etc?
4. Do I cut my losses and get a T5 2.4 engine and swap? (although no issue that I know of with liners)
5. Do I sell car as is? - What is it actually worth? (see sig for rough spec)
6. Do I strip and sell and scrap?

Really don't know where to go, advice, suggestions, anyone done any of the above?
Cheers.

[Santa]

If you liked the car before it broke then fix it.

[Harvey]

Sorry to hear something gone.
Pull the plugs out see if there's any damage, then pull the sump off sure you will find out what's gone on.

2.4 would be the cheapest way.

[claymore]

unusual for a 2.5 to bend a conrod, are you sure it isn't a sticking tappet?

[icooney]

claymore, not a Volvo but this is kind of what it sounds like, just not this bad on idle, gets worse upto 3k RPM, then calms a little to 5k


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AI8nk2tiQww

[smithy]

I'm sure the s60r uses forged rods and Pistons from factory .

[Dangerous Dave]

The conrods were forged on the S60R engine and as above I've not heard of one bending....is it misfiring or any drop in performance?

[Harvey]

What were you up to when it ?.

[LeeT5]

The rods are forged and I've never heard of them bending.
As Harvey says, drop the sump off and look! Don't base your decision on 'I think a rod has bent'...
You've got nothing to loose by removing the sump, which is easy too!
Good luck.

[Yosser]

I alluded to this in my reply to you on T5D5, but my car sounded terrible when the vvt hub failed.

Pop off the plastic cover over the cambelt and look at the pulleys with the engine running. They shouldn't wobble but it can be hard to see. It should also be obvious if the sound is coming from that area.

[icooney]

It was the sound more than anything

[icooney]

I'll strip the cam cover and start there

[icooney]

Harvey - driving my daughter to nursary so being sensible! And it started running a little rough, then progressed to knock And squeak.

[icooney]

Dave no misfire or drop in performance (although needed to be persuaded to pick up on accelleration, but boosted and drove mostly normal) just awful noise, but didn't like to crank after I got home.

[Harvey]

So it could be the VVT .

[Harvey]

I alluded to this in my reply to you on T5D5, but my car sounded terrible when the vvt hub failed.

Pop off the plastic cover over the cambelt and look at the pulleys with the engine running. They shouldn't wobble but it can be hard to see. It should also be obvious if the sound is coming from that area.

When it failed did it bring up a fault code ?.

[Yosser]

When it failed did it bring up a fault code ?.

It didn't bring up a message but there were vvt related codes there when it was read with vida.

As far as I could tell it was running fine, I did a reasonable lap of the 'ring with it like this and a few laps of Combe the second time :o

[icooney]

yosser did yours sound like the video ^^?

As far as codes on mine, I don't have a code reader....

[Yosser]

TBH I don't think it was that bad, but it did sound pretty terminal.

It's worth considering.

[icooney]

Ok so a quick update, stripped out the spark plug and pushed each piston with a screwdriver (very technical test method) piston 4 pushed down about half a centimetre the rest are solid, what's broken? It still moves up and down when the engine cranks, so I'm thinking I might get away with just the bearings shot out, and just replace them.... Thoughts?

[stribo]

Sounds more like the little end, if it'll move that much, but definitely needs stripping down for further inspection. :(

[Harvey]

Sump off sorry to say ,could be gudgeon pin to piston or con rod to crank.
pull the oil filter off to see what bits are in it, Then pull the sump off , then split con rod to see if the crank is toast then you know 100% what you need to do.

[icooney]

I can't rebuild from the sump end only can I? I have to go in from the top?

[Harvey]

To rebuild top & bottom needs to come off.
But if the crankshaft is damaged then it's a game changer, then the piston bore needs looking at.
To remove the sump it's a hours work.

[icooney]

Right found some time to play, stripped sump off, and found one big end bearing not there! It has been completely obliterated and there is many tiny 'metal fillings' in the oil filter and bottom of the sump. Good news for me, just need new big end bearing shell.

[stribo]

Right found some time to play, stripped sump off, and found one big end bearing not there! It has been completely obliterated and there is many tiny 'metal fillings' in the oil filter and bottom of the sump. Good news for me, just need new big end bearing shell.

Have you checked the crank? How badly is it damaged?

[icooney]

No damage to the crank, the conrod where the bearing seats has some 'hammer rash' but I assume that will be no issue as the new shell simply covers it.

[Nealevo]

Good news then matey, I hope it's a simple and cheap fix

[icooney]

Not so good news, crank does actually on further investigation need a regrinding, for me too much of a big job so sadly my R is up for sale, an easy fix for someone, or new engine swap.

[smithy]

Stick a 2.4 t5 engine in it mate u won't regret it .