C70 T5 - lots of questions!!

[ben_g40]

Hi all,
Sorry to be a PITA but thought it would be easier to get all my questions out the way in one go!
My car is a Feb 2000 C70 Coupe T5.

1. My car is slow to turn over, whether it's hot or cold. It always fires and doesn't take any longer than normal it is just really slow. The previous owner says it's always been like it and I have no reason to doubt him. Would a weak battery cause it or starter motor or is this normal. Din remember my previous one being like it though.

2. The next 'issue' is a whirring noise coming from the rear of the car. I'm pretty confident that it is the fuel pump as it does it when the ignition is switched on for around 5 seconds and then when the car starts for another 5 seconds. It then doesn't do it for the rest of the journey. Are fuel pumps prone? I presume they only have an in tank pump fitted to these?

3. Next is another whirring noise from the front of the car. To me it sounds like a belt. Whether it's the drive belt or cambelt I don't know. I wouldn't mind changing it out of cause anyway so wondered if there was any special tools required?
I've done plenty of cambelts before so as long as these aren't extra difficult I think I'll be okay doing it myself.

4. I do a bit of mountain biking and have a roof rack for my E92 BMW. I have tried finding a Thule kit that will fit my bars as they're both fixpoints in the roof. However, I can't seem to find anything listed by anyone which seems strange. Does anyone have bars fitted to their C70. I have seen ones that fit under the door frame - these don't interest me as I would be a bit nervous with the pillar less doors.

I think that's it for now. If there's anymore I'll update this thread.

Thanks in advance and my apologies again being a pita.

Ben

[t5 pete]

Hello
Number 1 yep better try it with jump leads on another car to see if it improves that will show if the battery is weak.
Number 4 haven't a clue type into Google c70 roof bars etc also look at Google pictures to see what others have done

Number 2 if you think it's the pump get some one to start the car while you lift the carpets in the boot and listen for the noise.
Number 3 could be the belt tensioner I've recently had to replace my serpentine belt tensioner due to a rattle on the bearing.

[Wobbly Dave]

I've owned a C70 T5 which is about 3 months older than yours for the last 9 years.
If you wanted to swap out the starter then I have spares.

I have a spare OEM fuel pump - from when I moved to a Deatchwerks DW300 upgrade. So if you need a spare then I can help.

The idle pulley is better off new.

Roof bars - I bought OEM Volvo ones for the C70 many moons ago, which screw into the 4 holes in the roof, and fit the black roof trims exactly. Not sure if you can still get them. Alternatively you could buy a generic boot carrier, for your bike?

[ben_g40]

Thanks for the help Pete and Dave.

Battery is putting out a healthy voltage and is charging so gonna check the starter motor next.

I'm highly embarrassed to say this but the fuel pump noise wasn't coming from the fuel pump. The worst thing is, it was the missus who pointed it out - electric aerial going up....

I have a full cambelt kit which I'll fit next week. I will check auxiliary belt and all the idlers and tensioners for that when I pull it off.

The roof bars are still proving an issue. I'm going to find out what thread size they are and just find something similar. I will be doing a lot of miles soon with the bike so would rather it be on top for ease however I might have to resort to a rear mounted one.


Couple more issues have arose today. The first being the PAS reservoir leaking. It appears to be coming from the seam so presume that it just needs replacing. There is nothing common that will cause over pressurisation and will cause it to fail is there? Or is it just with age.

The second issue is that the speedo randomly cut out and the dash illuminated like a xmas tree. 5 seconds later and all was back to normal. The next time I started the car the EML was on. Read fault codes on all the systems and they all point to a rear wheel speed sensor. I'm presuming they do the ABS as well as the speedo...?

Thanks again.

Ben

[stribo]

Thanks for the help Pete and Dave.

Battery is putting out a healthy voltage and is charging so gonna check the starter motor next.

I'm highly embarrassed to say this but the fuel pump noise wasn't coming from the fuel pump. The worst thing is, it was the missus who pointed it out - electric aerial going up....

I have a full cambelt kit which I'll fit next week. I will check auxiliary belt and all the idlers and tensioners for that when I pull it off.

The roof bars are still proving an issue. I'm going to find out what thread size they are and just find something similar. I will be doing a lot of miles soon with the bike so would rather it be on top for ease however I might have to resort to a rear mounted one.


Couple more issues have arose today. The first being the PAS reservoir leaking. It appears to be coming from the seam so presume that it just needs replacing. There is nothing common that will cause over pressurisation and will cause it to fail is there? Or is it just with age.

The second issue is that the speedo randomly cut out and the dash illuminated like a xmas tree. 5 seconds later and all was back to normal. The next time I started the car the EML was on. Read fault codes on all the systems and they all point to a rear wheel speed sensor. I'm presuming they do the ABS as well as the speedo...?

Thanks again.

Ben

:hilarious :hilarious :hilarious

At least you found out before you spent money on a new fuel pump. :D

[Kingsford G]

In regards of slow cranking I`d test the battery with a load tester if all good change the starter.It could benefit cranking by extra power as said above for testing but it won`t prove nothing cos if u have worn shaft bearings it can be ok with the extra power then you think its the battery and change it with no results.Or if u can borrow a good known battery of the same power that`ll be the easiest.For N1 and 2 agree with Pete.

[RichT4]

Something i must ask here, is it physically slow cranking? or it cranks fast but fires late?
Slow cranking would suggest a weak battery or weak connections on the battery feeds to the starter motor. Could also suggest the starter motor is on its way out.

The second suggestion of mine could be that the camshaft sensor is causing an issue, much like mine is right now. Throwing up an engine management light.

If anyone local to you has an OBD 2 or a Computer plug in, pop it in and read the codes.

[ben_g40]

It is slow cranking, and all the dash lights dim aswell. I did think weak battery but it is the same no matter what temperature the car is. I'm wondering, if like Rich said, the feed to the starter is not up to scratch.

I have read fault codes myself. I have the following for engine management:-
510F - vehicle speed sensor (linked to rear wheel speed sensor I presume)
644A - variable camshaft, faulty signal.
720A - communication fault with immobiliser control unit.

Ben

[Wobbly Dave]

PAS reservoirs leak for fun - even the effing new ones. glad u found the rear noise - the antenna does benefit from regular WD40 application. The roof bars - well you might be lucky? Ask FRF if they can source some. They were only 100 quid IIRC.

I still repair ABS ECUs

[ben_g40]

Do you think the ABS ECU will be at fault Dave?
In the Abs module the fault is listed as LR wheel speed sensor...?

[RichT4]

Do you think the ABS ECU will be at fault Dave?
In the Abs module the fault is listed as LR wheel speed sensor...?

I'd explore all other areas before checking the module buddy, i know for a fact on mine the Driveshaft is the one causing the issue, the Cog for which the abs reading is taken from is missing a tooth as it has rusted off.
check them first and work your way up.

[c70geoff]

code reader brings same fault and wheel sensor everytime i checked mine
defo abs ecu at fault matey
changed rings and sensors and still problem

[ben_g40]

Will do Rich.
Cheers all.

[RichT4]

code reader brings same fault and wheel sensor everytime i checked mine
defo abs ecu at fault matey
changed rings and sensors and still problem

I know that the Abs Ecu is a common issue, fingers crossed in his and my case that it isn't.

[ben_g40]

Just been doing some research into the ABS ecu fault.
Looks to be a relatively simple fix if it is at fault. Is it just a case of removing the ECU and re soldering the joints...?
If that is the case I'm happy to do it myself...

Ben

[Wobbly Dave]

ABS is either the module or the reluctor rings or the sensor loom (broken wires)