Radiator change, argh!

[xllifts850]

Today I decided to take the bull by the horns and change the radiator as the old one decided to crap itself.

What a work up to do, so glad I have a two post ramp in the man cave!!! all went well until the underside mounting weld nut broke away leaving a rotating bolt and no way of gripping the round nut side, so armed with a plasma torch in two halves the bolt came out but the rubber mount caught fire....... luckily we put it out.

Ordered some new rubber mounts and bolts (arrive tomorrow) welded a new nut in place of nasty awful horrid nut!

So decided to install the RIP kit and 3" throttle body with blue injectors adjustable pressure fuel pump (been sat on shelf since last july) while it was in the air, I noticed that the cold side of turbo is wet with oil and the diff is coated.

Does this indicate that the seals have gone???? should I look at replacing turbo with another std size one or given the parts being fitted would I be better off going up to an 18??

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks Dave.

[Jamest5r]

Them mounting bolts get you every time if they've never been changed, as for the turbo take it off and have a closer look, oil has a tendency to spread far and wide :)

[The Flying Moose]

OH yes I feel your pain with the radiator job!

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k549/EMLYNT5/P8060796.jpg

As for the turbo I agree with James, while your there pop it off and inspect. A recon if never done before probably wouldnt go a miss or a newer turbo as you mentioned.

A 19T would be much easier to find than an 18T from experience, a 16T however even as a small turbo is a nice upgrade from a 15G and well noticeable for little cost.

[p fandango]

we managed to do a radiator change on JT's car in 45minutes, i'm sure that was including filling & bleeding it lol

[xllifts850]

Yes those pesky radiator bolts are a right pain! so glad I didn't opt for the driveway weekend job!! am going to grease the hell out of the new ones for later ease of removal when I can convince the Mrs that a big intercooler is beneficial to fuel economy :mischievo

Will see how much time I have tomorrow and have a look at getting turbo out, are they better coming out from underneath or from above?

A 19t sounds a good idea, I was thinking of a 16t purely on cost side, food for thought there thank you. and if you can do a rad change in 45 mins, you will be forever my hero :biggrin:

[The Flying Moose]

It's a lot easier to remove the turbo from the top but it does take a little maneouvuring. Three pipes two water one oil and four bolts on the exhaust manifold will see the turbo off once the surrounding ancillary parts are removed.

[xllifts850]

It's a lot easier to remove the turbo from the top but it does take a little maneouvuring. Three pipes two water one oil and four bolts on the exhaust manifold will see the turbo off once the surrounding ancillary parts are removed.

Cool thanks, will take the turbo out before filling system back up then, now all I need is to find a 19t :cop:

[stribo]

I'm also a victim of the captive bolts snapping, but as I was fitting an alloy rad, I went for matching stainless nuts and bolts. :)

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo174/RSCougar/Volvo%20C70/WP_20140315_10_25_31_Pro.jpg (http://s373.photobucket.com/user/RSCougar/media/Volvo%20C70/WP_20140315_10_25_31_Pro.jpg.html)

[xllifts850]

Got to take a look at turbo today, looks like seals have gone :( in some ways, but yay in others turbo upgrade ahead!! :)
Having put it all back together radiator RIP 3" throttle manifold and blue injectors etc, she fired up no problem but Lambda light came on, we ran car for a while and it didn't go out.
I have a spare ecu so swapped it over and the light has gone out..... which is strange boost gauge is showing 3/4 across white when under power and runs smooth but seems to lack oomph if that makes sense, would this be down to needing a remap or have I missed something silly? I have checked all boost pipes vacuum pipes all secure and in good condition. I am running an adjustable fuel regulator as well, it ticks over nicely and doesn't hesitate on revving, any suggestions would be welcome.

Sorry for asking stupid questions! Dave.

[The Flying Moose]

You've changed quite a few components all at once. The best advice I can give is leave it and go back and check it all again the day after.

I would imagine that if it was running fine before the "overhaul" then it is most likely a vacuum leak, however if its running smoothly it will be a small leak rather than an obvious one. Also check basic things like the vacuum pipes to the inlet and boost control solenoid are connected and plumbed the correct way.

One final very common leak is from the left of the inlet manifold as you look at it (given you have removed it reading above) there is a 90 degree vacuum elbow which connects to the PCV breather system which can perish and snap or simply be forgotten about easily as its hidden.