s60 t5 maf run in procedure

[S60]

Hi everybody was wondering if theres a run in procedure after fitting a new maf been having problems with the car surging and hesitating and so far i've had the etm refurbed new maf new coils and its still running like crap and on top of tht the starter is sticking now lol all i want is the thing to run properly but i'm losing the will to live trying to figure out whats wrong lol
Any help much appreciated

[deathrider311271]

what plugs are you using?

[S60]

Using bosch ones i think they got changed at the end of last year and the car has been sitting for a while not getting used only just put it back on the road

[LeeT5]

There is no run in procedure. The ecu will just see MAF readings and adjust accordingly. Clearly, you have another fault elsewhere.

Sounds to me like you have a boost leak or air leak.

What codes you getting?

Also, when you say Bosch, please don't tell me you mean bosch super 4s? They are a gimmick and you'll get no performance gains. You better off using oe as they last 30k and are titanium tipped.

[S60]

Since i fitted the maf its still been bringing up the engine system service urgent but no codes where as before i fitted the new maf it was flagging p0101 which is maf related the plugs are just normal bosch ones never went for anything special to be honest they prob need changed as the car has been sitting for a while and only started on the odd occasion not checked the hoses yet to be honest cars upto 148000 any ideas areas to look at?

[S60]

Has anybody had the same sort of problems? Idle seems to be dropping when at a standstill have to keep the revs up when pulling away and when u try to boot it u can feel the whole car juddering its like it wants to go but somethings stopping it

[jdavis]

Vacuum leaks can also throw MAF codes as it's un metered air entering the inlet.

[LeeT5]

Since i fitted the maf its still been bringing up the engine system service urgent but no codes where as before i fitted the new maf it was flagging p0101 which is maf related the plugs are just normal bosch ones never went for anything special to be honest they prob need changed as the car has been sitting for a while and only started on the odd occasion not checked the hoses yet to be honest cars upto 148000 any ideas areas to look at?


Has anybody had the same sort of problems? Idle seems to be dropping when at a standstill have to keep the revs up when pulling away and when u try to boot it u can feel the whole car juddering its like it wants to go but somethings stopping it

OK. It sounds to me like your falling into the same trap most ppl fall into when they read fault codes, they take the meaning of the fault code to be literal and come to the conclusion that (in this instance) they have a faulty MAF.
Volvo P2 ECUs are very advanced and work on a 3 stage system. Green = all is good, Amber = fault pending but not logged more than once and Red = Fault logged, occured more than once.
The trouble with using generic code readers is they can sometimes be a bit vague. Afterall, what you see on the screen is only as good as the software that is written onto the device and secondly, how that information is interrogated by you, the user.

When you pulled the PO101 fault code, did it look like this "PO101" or this "PO101+"?

If it was the later then it's been logged more than once and would be a RED code if read by a Volvo code reader.

As some ppl have already said, MAF codes can be logged by many, many things. That code alone could have been logged by around 20 different types of fault/s and if you were reading a Volvo code reader that is more precise and contains more information, then you would still be left with approx 2-5 plausible causes of the code being logged.

To ask ppl "has anybody had the same sort of problems" my friend is really pissing in the wind! Nearly everyone hear would say 'yes' to that and all would give different outcomes as to the actual cause of the code being logged. One might say 'my MAF was faulty', someone else might say 'my turbo hose had a spilt in it from the OTE pipe to the IC' and I would say...'well I had a cracked IC'! Which would you prefer as the answer? Cos one might cost you £20 for a new hose and the latter might cost you £400 - £900 depending on the choice you take in fixing it.

So, moving forwards.....I would firstly start by checking all the basic and obvious things like loose jubilees on hoses and pipes, checking all plugs are plugged in, no wiring chaffed on exposed wiring etc. Spend 30 minutes examining your engine bay looking for signs. Trouble is, you may not know what your looking for, in which case I would suggest you stop and drive your car to either a dealer or good Indy and have them diagnose the fault.
If you do know what your looking for and nothing jumps out at you then have the codes ALL cleared. Your generic device may not be able to do this but put £10 in the hand of any good garage and they will happily clear them for you.
Then drive the car for at least 50 miles regardless of symptoms (unless its misfiring, excess smoke or undriveable - in which case limp to garage or STOP and call for breakdown service). Then go back to the garage (preferably a dealer) and ask them to ONLY read the fault codes and print them for you. That should not cost you anything other than 15 minutes labour at a dealer or £10 in the mechanics hand at a good Indy.

Then you have two choices:

1. Either let that garage try to fix the fault/s once they have actual codes relating to the last 50 miles driving (ie no red herrings)
2. Drive away and report the codes back here along with photos of print out (if you can) and hopefully one of us can decifer the codes and steer you in the right direction to fixing your own car.

Other than that - continue pissing in the wind!

I'm not being rude or trying to fob you off, just trying to help you out. :)

[S60]

I'm not taking the codes literally as in i'm not buying bits for the car just cos it tells me to also if somebody tells me what it could be or what was wrong with theyre car i'm not going to buy bits for tht reason either i just want to know a general idea of places to look at i'm a motorbike mechanic to trade and by no means stupid when it comes to an engine the parts i've changed are bits i've thought needed changing cos this whole thing started with a knackered coil over a year ago but to be honest i've not done the easiest bit and checked the boost hoses and such which i should have i plan on having a good look round it this weekend
The code getting logged was just p0101 my dad hooked up his delphi machine and it never really showed any engine codes only codes it showed was a fault with the central locking and clutch pedal position sensor which i changed as the cruise control stopped working