850r Auto fluid change Best way??

[merc85]

Hi peeps, as you know ive recently purchased a 1996 850r Auto, it has full history and the Auto box has had a fluid change at around 150k, she's now on 170 and i want to chnage the fluid as a precaution since my last 850 auto lol.

How do you guys do it? last time i did one we disconected the Return line ran the engine for a few seconds until it pumped out x amount, then refilled with the same amount, and repeated this until the fluid was Red.

Now ive read several people have actually drain the box from the bottom via the drain plug, Apparently this expels roughly 3.5 lts. then refit the plug the you refill with 2 litres of atf then run again thought the gears waiting 5 seconds in each gear before shifting to the next.

Finally once again when the fluid turns RED you top up usually 3 l- 3.5 litres and check the level in the normal matter.

Which way is best do you think??

[Kingsford G]

All correct,just have a measuring jug to for what comes out so u can top up the same amount,took me about 13L to get it nice red.Also if you keep the top up fluid warm somehow u can top up much quicker.

[merc85]

All correct,just have a measuring jug to for what comes out so u can top up the same amount,took me about 13L to get it nice red.Also if you keep the top up fluid warm somehow u can top up much quicker.

what are you upto tomorrow night? lol

[Kingsford G]

Just missed.Allways top up what comes out including 1st 3-3,5L u top up with the same amount but not 2L as you said.

[Kingsford G]

what are you upto tomorrow night? lol

Working till 7pm usually,come down with the fluid if u want.

[merc85]

Just missed.Allways top up what comes out including 1st 3-3,5L u top up with the same amount but not 2L as you said.

yes thts what i thought, its just what i had read somewhere ;)

[Kingsford G]

yes thts what i thought, its just what i had read somewhere ;)

That`s how I did my R when I bought it and red from mathewsvolvos all the info.

[AndysR]

I'd remove the return hose start the engine and let the box pump the fluid out whilst at the same time topping the box up with fresh oil through the dipstick tube ;)

I'd also go for a decent brand Dextron III fluid

[AndysR]

Happy to give you a hand with it tomorrow evening if you like, although it will need to later in the evening as I'm not about until then...

[AndysR]

I'd get at least 15 litres of fresh fluid, you can always return what you don't use ;)

[stribo]

I'd get at least 15 litres of fresh fluid, you can always return what you don't use ;)

If only he knew of a decent motor factors. :)

[merc85]

If only he knew of a decent motor factors. :)

i know of several pmsl :)

[Kingsford G]

There is a stage fluid change too.Drain the sump and top up with the same amount every week or 2 4-5 times,till its red really.Andy u`d never keep up topping up with a return pipe off cos it spill about 2,5-3L fluid in about 40 sec.

[siamblue]

IIRC when i did my R the first way you said it with draining 2 ltrs,until it started to expel a little air.
i got mine from GSF think it was £6 a gallon so i bought 3..

[Kingsford G]

IIRC when i did my R the first way you said it with draining 2 ltrs,until it started to expel a little air.
i got mine from GSF think it was £6 a gallon so i bought 3..

I bought a Castrol transmax,£8 per L lol

[merc85]

£6 a gallon is very very cheap ;)

[jamesy12345]

I just changed the fluid via the plug, topped up via the dipstick then planning to change again in a short time.

I used this stuff...

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=153

[ROZER]

I just changed the fluid via the plug, topped up via the dipstick then planning to change again in a short time.

I used this stuff...

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=153

same stuff I used to do a full flush it took 13L to get mine cheery red I have done 30k since box feels fine.

[jamesy12345]

same stuff I used to do a full flush it took 13L to get mine cheery red I have done 30k since box feels fine.

looks that that stuff (Carlube ATF-U) is about 20 quid for 4.5 litres

[ROZER]

the carlube atf-u is fully synthetic so I would do a full flush not sure if the two oils would mix .?

[jamesy12345]

the carlube atf-u is fully synthetic so I would do a full flush not sure if the two oils would mix .?

oh dear! Good thought, I have asked the company (Tetrosyl) who make it - is it compatible with mineral oil....:)

Some info on mixing....

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricants/company.asp?wp=91

5. Will synthetic gear oils and mineral oils mix together?
Yes, but beware, there are two kinds of synthetic gear oils available: polyalphaolefin (PAO) based and polyalkylene glycol (PAG) based. PAOs are basically a man made version of mineral oils (although with greatly improved properties) and can therefore be mixed with mineral oils. In fact, semi-synthetic products have mineral and synthetic (PAO) base fluids in them, so obviously, they must be able to mix. PAGs, on the other hand will not mix with PAOs or mineral oil. Utmost care must be taken when using this kind of product.

edit:

....and relax....page 3 of the material safety data sheet below says that this ATF-U contains up to 5% mineral oil, so must be a PAO type

http://www.maccess.co.uk/ecommerce/PDFs/A70107.pdf

[siamblue]

Forgot to say i only used the Total ATF for the flushing of the box,but try GSF as you don't want to chuck expensive oil away.

[jamesy12345]

oh dear! Good thought, I have asked the company (Tetrosyl) who make it - is it compatible with mineral oil....:)

Some info on mixing....

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricants/company.asp?wp=91

5. Will synthetic gear oils and mineral oils mix together?
Yes, but beware, there are two kinds of synthetic gear oils available: polyalphaolefin (PAO) based and polyalkylene glycol (PAG) based. PAOs are basically a man made version of mineral oils (although with greatly improved properties) and can therefore be mixed with mineral oils. In fact, semi-synthetic products have mineral and synthetic (PAO) base fluids in them, so obviously, they must be able to mix. PAGs, on the other hand will not mix with PAOs or mineral oil. Utmost care must be taken when using this kind of product.

edit:

....and relax....page 3 of the material safety data sheet below says that this ATF-U contains up to 5% mineral oil, so must be a PAO type

http://www.maccess.co.uk/ecommerce/PDFs/A70107.pdf

Quoting myself, should be against the rules.....got this reply back from Tetrosyl who make the Carlube stuff:

From: "///////@tetrosyl.com" <////////@tetrosyl.com>
To: james
Sent: Tuesday, 18 March 2014, 18:48
Subject: Fw: ATF-U Transmission Fluid

Good Afternoon,

Please see below from our development oil chemist.

I hope this is of help to you.

Regards,

/////////
Lubricants | Winter | Homecare
www.carlube.co.uk



Direct Dial +44 (0)161 762 /////
Ext: //////


----- Forwarded by ////////////Tetrosyl on 18/03/2014 13:46 -----

From: ///////////Tetrosyl
To: ///////////@tetrosyl.com
Date: 18/03/2014 13:45
Subject: Re: Fw: ATF-U Transmission Fluid


Its neither PAO or PAG based. Product is based on hydrocracked basestocks. If both products are for the same application I would expect them to be compatible. I certainly wouldn't expect any issues with mixing ATF-U with a mineral oil based product.

Regards,

//////////////
/////////////: Oils
Tetrosyl Ltd

Tel: 0161 764 ////// Ext: ////

A bit of reading about hydrocracked oil:

http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/images/The%20Truth%20about%20SYNTHETICS%20v%202.pdf

I was once sitting in on a job interview where the receptionist of a company was looking to move up into the (Chemical) Engineering section.....the interviewer asked: "please explain hydrocracking". Three words you never want to hear during an interview! The young lady in question (no older than early 20s) was silent for a minute then drew it all up on a whiteboard, explaining it step by step until she was asked to stop. Little did the interviewer know she had completed her Masters dissertation in that subject :D

[merc85]

Just finish this thread off lol, We changed the fluid last night, Used Deron 111, but after 15 ltr we ran out so topped up with a small bit of Dexron 11, The gear changes are now very very smooth and all apears well.

We dropped the oil out of the bottom of the gearbox, about 2.5 litres, Replaced the sump bung 24mm. then filled via dip stick tube, then disconnecting the Top hose to Rad placed a hose on the outlet, counting 3 seconds between all shifting gears pumped said amount out and topped back up. And repeated this until the fluid was nice and RED.

[Wobbly Dave]

Shame I missed this thread - as I have done this operation quite a few times (albeit some time ago).