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JamesT5
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 16:25
I tried to tighten my actuator rod today thanks to a suggestion from MRP about my boost dropping in and out. Anyway I managed to budge that annoying heat shield out of the way enough to access the locking (10mm) nut. I noticed the whole actuator rod actually moves left and right but I couldn't loosen the locking nut despite holding the part next to it with some plumber's grips.

Stupidly I doused the whole area in WD-40 which then 'smoked like a trooper' when the engine got warm because it got on the turbo (whoooops!) :doh: :ashamed:

Anyway, I'm wondering if the whole nut and rod assy is ceased and it might just be better to get a new wastegate, or can I take the wastegate off and loosen the nut with it off the car where I can get a better grip on it.

Advice appreciated, thanks. :B_thumb:

T5RatherAmusin
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 16:38
You turning the right way :uglyhamme

JamesT5
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 17:00
You turning the right way :uglyhamme

I saw some instructions on speedsweed or whatever it's called, and it said to push the spanner away from you, so I assume I am. :D

T5RatherAmusin
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 17:06
lol pull towards you- front of car

JamesT5
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 17:13
lol pull towards you- front of car

Really?

M-R-P
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 17:13
yep - you need to wind the nut up the rod, away from the. bit where it connects to the wastage lever.

if the actuator rod moves left and right, there's a problem. you should be able to pull the rod out of the actuator and have it spring back all the way.

oh, changing the actuator on a 16t is a real pain in the arse (I did one on Monday) so I hope yours just needs a tweak.

JamesT5
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 17:32
yep - you need to wind the nut up the rod, away from the. bit where it connects to the wastage lever.

if the actuator rod moves left and right, there's a problem. you should be able to pull the rod out of the actuator and have it spring back all the way.

oh, changing the actuator on a 16t is a real pain in the arse (I did one on Monday) so I hope yours just needs a tweak.

So I wind the nut towards me if I'm sanding in front of the car? I'll give it another try tomorrow (if it stays dry for long enough), failing that I'll have to get GRN or BVS to take a look when it goes in for the control arms to be fitted.

M-R-P
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 18:15
the locknut needs winding towards the passenger side of the car to free off the the bit that connects to the wastegate arm.
then when that's free, take the connection off the wastegate arm and wind the connector towards the passenger side a few turns until you have to pull the rod out about 4mm to get it back on the actuator arm.

JamesT5
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 20:07
the locknut needs winding towards the passenger side of the car to free off the the bit that connects to the wastegate arm.
then when that's free, take the connection off the wastegate arm and wind the connector towards the passenger side a few turns until you have to pull the rod out about 4mm to get it back on the actuator arm.

Thanks, I'll give it ago and try pulling the spanner towards me this time. Failing that, the wastegate seems to be held on with a bolt and a bracket to the turbo, so if the rod has to come off the actuator arm anyway then perhaps I could just take the damn thing off and loosen that nut?

M-R-P
Wednesday 19th February 2014, 20:11
nope... real ball ache getting it off mate. leave the rod attached to the wastegate arm as it'll stop you spinning the actuator rod and potentially damaging the diaphragm (so I've been told).
give it loads of WD40 and a good wire brushing on the thread and have another go.