p0101

[dave_mito]

Got the dreaded maf code.
Put new bosch maf in
Cleaned etm
Checked for any obvious leaks


Were next, ?

[stribo]

Check the wiring to the MAF, and the plug itself, these can get corrosion in them.

[dave_mito]

Has any one got a wiring diagram and possibly the data for what the resistance should be for the signal wire on the maf

[M-R-P]

If it's the 2.4 T5, there's a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that can (often does) go funny and give a maf warning.

[dave_mito]

If it's the 2.4 T5, there's a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that can (often does) go funny and give a maf warning.
Does it give to much pressure or to little?

[M-R-P]

Does it give to much pressure or to little?

Can't remember, it might just throw a code and do sod-all harm but they're known to play up when they got on a bit. Apparently, there's a Landrover FPR which is exactly the same and costs half as much.

[dave_mito]

Can't remember, it might just throw a code and do sod-all harm but they're known to play up when they got on a bit. Apparently, there's a Landrover FPR which is exactly the same and costs half as much.
can see a fuel pres sensor the same as a land rover one, is it defiantly the reg that go's and not the sensor?

[dave_mito]

Can't remember, it might just throw a code and do sod-all harm but they're known to play up when they got on a bit. Apparently, there's a Landrover FPR which is exactly the same and costs half as much.
can see a fuel pres sensor the same as a land rover one, is it defiantly the reg that go's and not the sensor?

[M-R-P]

Oooh - Might be a sensor... It doesn't apply to my model so didn't take much notice :slap:

[dave_mito]

was it something to do with that recall?

[partsforvolvos.com]

it was the pressure sensor that was the same as the LR part.

[M-R-P]

it was the pressure sensor that was the same as the LR part.

Finally - someone who knows what they're on about.

I can only tread water for so long :)

[dave_mito]

dont suppose some one has the ford number thats used aswell?

[Harvey]

Have a read of this link.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?149678-How-to-replace-fuel-pressure-sensor-for-CEL-P0193

[dave_mito]

Well changed the fuel sensor. No change. Might of of found a very slight leak on the hard pipe over top of engine, were the brackets attach.

Do they do a replacement other than a genuine volvo jobbie

[dave_mito]

Well changed the fuel sensor. No change. Might of of found a very slight leak on the hard pipe over top of engine, were the brackets attach.

Do they do a replacement other than a genuine volvo jobbie
any one?

[M-R-P]

You could probably pack it with resin or glass filler.
You should be able to source one from a scrappy or IPD do one if you have deep pockets.

[T5RatherAmusin]

ye I had a hole by the bracket kn mine when I bort it last owner used what looked like tiger seal wich was split so I used fibre glass to repair it....
There maybe a cheap pipe on ebay for u tho. ..

[dave_mito]

Well found a major leak.

Hole in the intercooler. Do they I get a standard replacement or are there any good reasable priced upgrades. Dont mind having to do a bit of fettling

[stribo]

Is it a big hole, as there's a drain hole in the intercooler.

[dave_mito]

Yeah its on the front. Look like its been hit by a stone

[dave_mito]

well put a brand new oe intercooler on. Its now pulling much better, but still got the maf fault.
The engine will cut out now if you block the air intake, unlike before whilst it just breathed through the intercooler.

I now get a hissing noise behind the dash for about 5 seconds behind the dash, could this be connected??

[T5RatherAmusin]

Any actual running probs now other than the light.
have you tried erasing it...


if you look down by your foot pedals you'll see the steering link and rubber boot. is the boot correctly in place?

[dave_mito]

Any actual running probs now other than the light.
have you tried erasing it...


if you look down by your foot pedals you'll see the steering link and rubber boot. is the boot correctly in place?
Seems to be running ol when the light is on. But when i clear it, its tunning rough until the ligjt vomes back on.

The hissing is coming from higher up, around the centre vents.

It was running spot on in the workshop giving good maf readings at ideal. But once I goy a few miles down the road and put it im boost it suddenly went flat, as tho a boost pipe had popped of. Whicj it hadn't

[M-R-P]

If the boot isn't fitted, it farts when you go from lock to lock (from experience lol)

Hissing from behind the dash... possibly the collar that joins the turbo to the OTE pipe, leaky recirc valve, leaky actuator or actuator pipe.

[dave_mito]

If the boot isn't fitted, it farts when you go from lock to lock (from experience lol)

Hissing from behind the dash... possibly the collar that joins the turbo to the OTE pipe, leaky recirc valve, leaky actuator or actuator pipe.
OTE pipe??

only does it for the first few seconds, is there a vac pipe that closes of after a few seconds. Thinking some one could of tee'd of that for a boost gauge

[M-R-P]

Over The Engine pipe.

You can't tee off the actuator pipe but the recirc pipe is the preferred pipe to use for a gauge.

I could possibly be the recirc hissing while the boost starts to build and then sealing. Any chance of a video of the noise?

I'd start checking/changing all the vac pipes, especially the one on the compressor housing.

[dave_mito]

its just strange how it does it only at start. Its defiantly louder in the car rather than under the bonnet.

[M-R-P]

There's no pressured air system inside the car but the turbo is very close to the bulkhead and can give the impression that it's near the dash.
A good example would be the OTE pipe - if it had a split in it, at the first corner above the turbo, there's not a lot of soundproofing between the pipe and the windscreen. You'd hear it as a hiss coming from the windscreen vents.

[dave_mito]

will check all the vac lines later today.

its a good job the car is so nice to drive and practical, I would be getting annoyed with any other car by now lol

[M-R-P]

Look for wet patches around the connections for the big boost pipes, it's an indication of a leak.

[dave_mito]

Look for wet patches around the connections for the big boost pipes, it's an indication of a leak.
all boost pipes have been of, cleaned and re fitted. so don't think its coming from one of them

[M-R-P]

Were they refitted correctly?

Not taking the piss, simple solutions first. And, if they've been cleaned, any leaks will show up nicely. It's possible to get a pipe slightly out of square when you can't see it properly when fitting it, I've done it myself.

[dave_mito]

Were they refitted correctly?

Not taking the piss, simple solutions first. And, if they've been cleaned, any leaks will show up nicely. It's possible to get a pipe slightly out of square when you can't see it properly when fitting it, I've done it myself.

double checked them last night, that's the first thing I thought.

I need to block the intake of a pressurize it all up and listen for leaks me thinks, need to come up with a way to get a Tyre valve sealed into the intake

[M-R-P]

Use an aerosol cap with a valve glued in and jubilee clipped on to the compressor inlet. You'll also need to block the pcv outlet with something like a cork.

[dave_mito]

well the hissing noise is the ac, must turn on briefly when started. drained it out yesterday to fit the coolers.

Cleared to code again, will see how it goes tonight.

[dave_mito]

code come back.

Think im going to make a smoke leak detector and see what I can find from there