Climate Control Module (CCM) Cleaning/Servicing - a word of warning...

[JamesT5]

I seem to be making up for a lack of posts over the last few months, those of you who follow my facebook updates will be pretty much up to speed on all of the mishaps and changes, but for the rest of you who aren't, here was another costly mistake of mine. Some of you will be well aware of this potential problem for one reason or another but for those less technically minded (like myself), a word of warning when servicing or cleaning the CCM.

Some background... Since I had the car the button for directing the air flow to the feet had been 'stuck inwards' (see photo) and was jammed, no matter what I did it wouldn't release so I decided to take the damn thing out, dismantle it and sort this annoying issue once and for all. Once I'd fiddled about and worked out how to fix it, I also decided to clean the fluff out of that temperature sensor grill on the front of the unit as well as clean the fan up inside as well because it was clogged with dust and was annoying me also.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011252_zps2d3b3002.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011252_zps2d3b3002.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011251_zpsab9a32fa.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011251_zpsab9a32fa.jpg.html)

So I found out that the button was jammed in because some plonker had managed to get some brown sticky substance in the button at some point, possibly a coffee or something judging by the colour of it. I managed to clean it all out and put the buttons all back together nicely, then put the circuit board back in before turning my attention to that dusty aperture leading to that grill thing on the front.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011253_zpsc96e150d.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011253_zpsc96e150d.jpg.html)

Now, me being me, I decided to poke a screwdriver through and gently prise out the dust. Big mistake! I ended up snapping the little thermistor in there just behind the grill and the result of this should you ever do it is a total failure of your CCM (as I quickly found out myself).

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011256_zps27b063cd.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011256_zps27b063cd.jpg.html)

So, after kicking myself for a few hours and trying to fruitlessly resolder the damn thing (which is also pointless by the way but I was desperate), I conceded defeat, hopped on to fleabay and purchased a replacement unit using the part number on my old one.

The unit turned up a couple of days later and was basically the same apart from the buttons on the bottom were missing on the new unit (see photo - the original casing is the top one of the two). As swapping the buttons over would involve removal of the circuit board anyway, I decided it might just be easier to swap over the circuit board as this was identical and the thermistor it soldered to the board.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011259_zpsa0a6caa9.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011259_zpsa0a6caa9.jpg.html)

10 - 15 minutes of careful 'surgery' and I swapped the innards of the replacement unit over to my old casing and then refitted it to the car. Hey presto! No software update or VIDA reset needed and I had a working CCM again.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011261_zps64ba44d5.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011261_zps64ba44d5.jpg.html)

There we have it, a word of warning to you anyone thinking of doing this themselves. If I can replace the thermistor in the old circuit board then I'll have a unit that I can sell on, if not it will be scrapped or I'll keep the casing as a spare.

[stephenevans99]

I almost did the same tbh.....when I first got my S60 the vent for the sensor was clogged with 'debris' so I got to work cleaning it out with an o-ring pick....luckily realised the wire was mean't to be there and didn't tug on it too hard.

We learn by our own mistakes - or if we're lucky - the mistakes of others :)

Good heads up though James & nice to see what the CCM looks like when stripped.

[stephenevans99]

Might also be worth a mention to DISCONNECT the car battery before disconnecting the CCM, otherwise you'll have an SRS Warning Light on the dash.

[JamesT5]

Might also be worth a mention to DISCONNECT the car battery before disconnecting the CCM, otherwise you'll have an SRS Warning Light on the dash.

Yes, well that as well but really my concern for disconnecting the battery is more to do with not frying the circuits or messing up the software when you plug it back in. The best procedure I read was to take both terminals off the battery (negative off first and reconnect last), touch both terminals together for 20 -30 seconds whilst they are off the battery and that clears any data in the system, but the car needs to power down for at least 2 minutes first.

Apparently, this touching of the cables can also bring the CCM back to life if it doesn't start up for any reason whether it has been off the car or not. It's no guarantee but sometimes it works - so I read anyway!

[V70-R-T5]

Might also be worth a mention to DISCONNECT the car battery before disconnecting the CCM, otherwise you'll have an SRS Warning Light on the dash.

This isn't imperative guys. I've just gone through a similar issue with the ECC control unit "going tech" in the T-5 (basically nothing worked one day) although the thermistor would also appear to have been broken since we bought the car in 2006!!!

Just make sure the ignition is switched off when you disconnect the ECC unit. In fact, just take the keys out of the ignition. You can actually re-connect the unit with the engine running (it's the disconnect with power on that causes the SRS service warning to come on) but better to change the unit with no power on at all. This saves the disconnecting the battery palaver.

Hope this assists.

[JamesT5]

This isn't imperative guys. I've just gone through a similar issue with the ECC control unit "going tech" in the T-5 (basically nothing worked one day) although the thermistor would also appear to have been broken since we bought the car in 2006!!!

Just make sure the ignition is switched off when you disconnect the ECC unit. In fact, just take the keys out of the ignition. You can actually re-connect the unit with the engine running (it's the disconnect with power on that causes the SRS service warning to come on) but better to change the unit with no power on at all. This saves the disconnecting the battery palaver.

Hope this assists.

How do you explain why the CCM packed up when I ended up breaking the thermistor? I had the battery off for removal and refitting of the CCM.

[V70 Graham]

Glad it's sorted.....that will teach you for poking around in small holes :redface:

[V70-R-T5]

How do you explain why the CCM packed up when I ended up breaking the thermistor? I had the battery off for removal and refitting of the CCM.

Jim, are you talking about the CCM, the Central Control Module (located under the centre console) or the ECC, the Electronic Climate Control panel under the radio control unit in which the thermistor is located?

Many people call the "heater control panel" the CCM. If you have Electronic Climate Control the "heater panel" is actually the ECC panel which sends a confirmation message to the CCM when the vehicle ignition goes live. (The CCM also receives confirmation messages from the engine ECU, the auto box ECU, if fitted, the ABS ECU the steering column ECU for the switches and the door/cabin light/window lift logic units). The CCM is from where the dealers read the fault codes.

If you are talking about the ECC panel, when you broke the thermistor, all you would have done is stop the ECC from working. Your blower and all the other switches should still work. Mine did for some 7 years but clearly I didn't have full climate control although the AC did chill. However, my wife noticed the AC starting to play up and the hot/cold controls starting to function intermittently over a couple of week, then one morning, nothing.

I don't know why your panel stopped working but it was probably the same reason mine stopped too. It just gave up.The interesting thing was that when I got the replacement ECC I put the front panel from the old (broken) unit onto the replacement to keep the switches but the new unit wouldn't work. So, contrary to the belief I had that it was the PCB, it would in actual fact be something to do with the front panel. Given that you found some brown gunge etc jammed into the switches on the front panel......who knows???

However, did you try this?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1UNPCAb5fI

[stephenevans99]

Jim, are you talking about the CCM, the Central Control Module (located under the centre console) or the ECC, the Electronic Climate Control panel under the radio control unit in which the thermistor is located?





Getting confused...lol

I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).

[M-R-P]

Getting confused...lol

I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).

yep, that's right but... TCV and BCS are the same, as are ECU and ECM. Depends where you're getting your info from at the time I spose :)

[JamesT5]

yep, that's right but... TCV and BCS are the same, as are ECU and ECM. Depends where you're getting your info from at the time I spose :)

So I wasn't wrong then? :B_thumb: :D

[M-R-P]

You can call it sugartits if you like mate, so long as we know what you're on about ;)

[stephenevans99]

pmsl.....sugar tits

[JamesT5]

pmsl.....sugar tits

Next forum post on this subject will go something like this........ "My Sugar tits has stopped working". :hilarious

[stephenevans99]

....and we'd all know EXACTLY what you mean.

[M-R-P]

"I've got cream all over my sugar tits...."

[V70 Graham]

"I've got cream all over my sugar tits...."

Not far off topic then !

[M-R-P]

Not far off topic then !

I got some on the topic too :)

[jamesy12345]

"I've got cream all over my sugar tits...."

words one would expect to hear only in dreams, or on a VPC discussion about....what was it being discussed again? Flanges?

[M-R-P]

Flange :)

[jamesy12345]

Flange :)

just the one will do nicely

[LeeT5]

just the one will do nicely

Although flanges are always better!

[stribo]

"I've got cream all over my sugar tits...."

Is that what you call your Moobs? :hilarious

[stephenevans99]

Filth....pure filth ;)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQktbIBsIAI

[LeeT5]

Getting confused...lol

I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).

That is precisely correct.

[V70-R-T5]

Getting confused...lol

I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).

Thanks guys, every days a school day. My reasoning was that every time I looked on line for a solution to the problem, that was the descriptor for the ECC....doh :slap:!!..CCM.....whatever, you know what I mean.

[M-R-P]

see.... sugartits :)

[Leeds_finest]

For anyone interested:

I too broke the thermistor on my CCM part number 8651242. I ordered a second hand replacement off eBay that looked IDENTICAL and when it arrived it happened to be a different part number (9452368). Tried plugging this unit in and I got some but not all of my functions back.

The way I cured the problem was to remove the thermistor from the second hand unit and solder it to my original unit. This has now fixed the problem and the CCM operates fully again.

[Dangerous Dave]

The thermistor required is a 10kohm NTC thermistor, you can get them from places like Maplin or Farnell (though maplin don't have any 10k in stock)

or some on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221268692933

[Leeds_finest]

The thermistor required is a 10kohm NTC thermistor, you can get them from places like Maplin or Farnell (though maplin don't have any 10k in stock)

or some on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221268692933

This is probably the easiest way if you break the thermistor ^^^ just solder a new one.

[Bannerman]

Hi folks, I'm new to this forum but would like to say thanks to James T5 , V70-R-T5 and Dangerous Dave for their posts.
Yesterday, it being a nice day albeit cold (in other words sunny) I decided to have a look at the cup holder on the dash. It gave up the ratchety bit many many years ago.
Anyway in order to get at it you have to take the AC panel and the radio panel out first as its connected by clips to the radio housing.
I didn't get it fixed in the end - some bit must have broken off inside. The point of this post however is not about the cupholder but about the Climate Control Module (aka Heater control panel).
When I fitted it back I noticed a bit of fluff in the thermistor housing and having just washed and cleaned the car I thought I'd get the tweezers out to remove the fluff. It was not fluff as I found out but a filter over the thermistor. One broken thermistor later and the AC unit refused to light up. I noticed also that the radio was not producing any sound although the display was working.
Digging out the manual to the fuse section I pulled the one I thought most likely to be the problem - big mistake. Now I had a SRS Airbag Warning light. I think it was fuse 30 or 31 - a yellow 30A one.

Thats when I found this thread. I ordered some 10k thermistors off ebay last night. Today I thought what's a thermistor but a resistor who's resistance gets less as it gets hotter. I figure the board isn't concerned about the characteristics of it but the actual resistance so this afternoon I dismantled the whole assembly and removed the broken thermistor and stuck a 10 resistor in its place. (This time I did disconnect the battery first, something I should have done yesterday), all back together, battery connected and hey presto it all works. How chuffed am I.
On my way home from work I called in to my regular mechanic, explained about the airbag light, "do you want me to look at it" he said, 5 minutes later it was cleared.
Oh and the radio sound was due to the speaker lead falling out.
Its nice when you get stuff fixed and you did it yourself (with a little help from your friends :) )

I took some photos to add to James collection above in the belief that it may someday sate someones curiosity as to whats inside the panel.

28344
pcb side. I took the lid off the can to see whats inside.

28345
silkscreen side

28347
rear of heater control panel

28348
you can see the 10k resistor clearly although I didn't break the grill of the vent - it was done a long time ago - lets you see the resistor clearly though!


28346
when I took the panel apart this curiously shaped insulator fell out. I couldn't see where it could have fitted or what it may have covered. In the end I didn't fit it, it was between the back of the unit and the pcb side , the back of the unit is plastic - whats it going to short ?
If anyone does know where it goes I'd like to know,

[Dangerous Dave]

Glad you found the information useful matey. That's what the forum is all about!

[robbiedonkey]

I seem to be making up for a lack of posts over the last few months, those of you who follow my facebook updates will be pretty much up to speed on all of the mishaps and changes, but for the rest of you who aren't, here was another costly mistake of mine. Some of you will be well aware of this potential problem for one reason or another but for those less technically minded (like myself), a word of warning when servicing or cleaning the CCM.

Some background... Since I had the car the button for directing the air flow to the feet had been 'stuck inwards' (see photo) and was jammed, no matter what I did it wouldn't release so I decided to take the damn thing out, dismantle it and sort this annoying issue once and for all. Once I'd fiddled about and worked out how to fix it, I also decided to clean the fluff out of that temperature sensor grill on the front of the unit as well as clean the fan up inside as well because it was clogged with dust and was annoying me also.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011252_zps2d3b3002.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011252_zps2d3b3002.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011251_zpsab9a32fa.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011251_zpsab9a32fa.jpg.html)

So I found out that the button was jammed in because some plonker had managed to get some brown sticky substance in the button at some point, possibly a coffee or something judging by the colour of it. I managed to clean it all out and put the buttons all back together nicely, then put the circuit board back in before turning my attention to that dusty aperture leading to that grill thing on the front.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011253_zpsc96e150d.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011253_zpsc96e150d.jpg.html)

Now, me being me, I decided to poke a screwdriver through and gently prise out the dust. Big mistake! I ended up snapping the little thermistor in there just behind the grill and the result of this should you ever do it is a total failure of your CCM (as I quickly found out myself).

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011256_zps27b063cd.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011256_zps27b063cd.jpg.html)

So, after kicking myself for a few hours and trying to fruitlessly resolder the damn thing (which is also pointless by the way but I was desperate), I conceded defeat, hopped on to fleabay and purchased a replacement unit using the part number on my old one.

The unit turned up a couple of days later and was basically the same apart from the buttons on the bottom were missing on the new unit (see photo - the original casing is the top one of the two). As swapping the buttons over would involve removal of the circuit board anyway, I decided it might just be easier to swap over the circuit board as this was identical and the thermistor it soldered to the board.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011259_zpsa0a6caa9.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011259_zpsa0a6caa9.jpg.html)

10 - 15 minutes of careful 'surgery' and I swapped the innards of the replacement unit over to my old casing and then refitted it to the car. Hey presto! No software update or VIDA reset needed and I had a working CCM again.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011261_zps64ba44d5.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011261_zps64ba44d5.jpg.html)

There we have it, a word of warning to you anyone thinking of doing this themselves. If I can replace the thermistor in the old circuit board then I'll have a unit that I can sell on, if not it will be scrapped or I'll keep the casing as a spare.

Hi mate just found your thread after searching for a fix to my volvo problem. Same sort of thing in that i was driving home on a warm sunny day and i whent to turn the aircon down and the fan did not slow down,odd i thought.Got home and turned the engine off and key out and the fan was still blowing,even odder. pulled what i thought was the fuse and it was still blowing,DAMN.

So the only way to stop the fan from blowing was to disconnect the battery. did this for 8 hours whilst at work the next day and all was good for the rest of the day when i put -lead back on. has been 2 days since i last used it and now its back to staying on,so have to take NEG terminal off everytime i pull up. I two cleaned out the slots but i think the resistor is still intact. so it sound like your problem, do you think a second hand unit will cure it or is there some dark forces at work in my volvo?
thanks ,Rob.

[LeeT5]

JamesT5 is banned from this forum. You won't get a reply and believe me when I say, you'll be glad you don't.

[robbiedonkey]

Ok thanks mate. Still not got any joy with the aircon��