The T5 Oil Change....

[JamesT5]

So forgetting the injury to the head (see Banter bar), yesterday I decided to break with the garage tradition and complete my first ever oil change on any car I've ever owned. Actually, aside from smacking myself on the head it was a lot easier than I ever imagined and the results? Read on.....

Since owning the car for the last 18 months or so, the oil has only ever been changed once before which I know is a cardinal sin but with so many other issues the basic maintenance went a little thin on the ground, the good news is I'm going to try and make up for it now with more frequent oil and filter changes. The car has clocked up over 250,000 miles now so it's going to need it.

My original plan was just to keep taking in to National Tyres and have them do one of their cheap-o oil changes for around £45, but I wanted to take it a step further and give it a good 'once over' myself to make sure I was totally happy that the job had been done totally to my satisfaction and so that I could plonk some extra special fluids in to the crankcasing that I wanted to try out.....

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011314_zps64f0a10f.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011314_zps64f0a10f.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011315_zps15bbd842.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011315_zps15bbd842.jpg.html)

The car has been running a little 'rough' lately and on cold it felt really lumpy and not well at all. I wanted to take off the PCV system and change it for new parts but that will have to wait until a later date when I have more funds. I went to the Main Stealers and ordered a genuine oil filter with new rubber 'O' ring, new sump plug in case the old one rounded off, and a new aluminium crush ring as recommended by Volvo. I also had to order a new Dipstick (got it online) as my old one snapped at the handle, a common problem I believe. Then I got myself a Volvo Oil Filter wrench (a very good investment I might add), and then the oil itself which I also ordered online.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011318_zps0af6419e.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011318_zps0af6419e.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011321_zpsa02f005e.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011321_zpsa02f005e.jpg.html)

The extras: I was reading a classic car magazine at work and noticed a product called Ametech Engine Restorer, it looked like good stuff and so I thought I'd give it a go as it claims to help restore compression and various other engine benefits. You need about 400ml for the 2.3 T5 engine and it came with a bottle of 'Friction Reducer', a bit odd seeing as though that's just what oil is but I thought, why not add it and see what happens! There will be various opinions on the use of this stuff from different members, I've heard the arguments before that they are useless, not worth it etc, etc, but I like to try them before I 'diss' them.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011317_zpsc71df588.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011317_zpsc71df588.jpg.html)

Before I started, I poured a bottle of Wynn's Engine Flush through the warmed engine and ran it for a good 20 minutes giving it the odd prod on the gas pedal which did actually produce a small quantity of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Either that's normal or bad but I think it may just be the Engine Flush dissolved some crap somewhere near the valve lifters as it seems fine now.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011316_zps6b0c1b37.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011316_zps6b0c1b37.jpg.html)

I thoroughly drained the crankcasing removed the old black oil filter, cleaned out the oil filter casing to remove some oil and gritty black stuff in there, cleaned the aperture for the oil filter and fitted the new filter. Then tightened to 18.5 ft LBS as instructed on the Volvo packaging.

At this point, I put the new sump plug on which was when I injured myself which stopped play for the day.

This morning however, I got straight back to it and filled the crankcasing with 6 litres of high grade low viscosity Fully Synthetic 0W-20 oil, 400ml of Amemtech Engine Restorer and 250ml of Ametech Friction Reducer. The engine seems so much happier now and is running more smoothly, I have better throttle response and the whole car just feels much happier during the cold start-up in general.

The Ametech stuff gets to work over a few hundred miles so I'll let you all know whether I think it has made a difference to the engine performance. Personally, I'm willing to give more things a try especially if the basic engine maintenance had been somewhat neglected over time.

By the way, out of the engine came only 3.5 litres of black treacle looking oil, that won't have helped the cold engine at all......

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1011323_zps40478bdc.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/P1011323_zps40478bdc.jpg.html)

[T5frankie]

You're gonna put that oil in? Really? And drive it?

[graemewelch]

looks like theres water in that oil to me.

[JamesT5]

You're gonna put that oil in? Really? And drive it?

I have and I will - it's running nicely now and is better in the cold weather! ;)

[merc85]

looks like theres water in that oil to me.

may be the engine flush....

[Harvey]

Ow20 way to thin......Ok to use as a flushing oil but I would never drive the car or put any load on the engine eg motorway speeds drive up hills in low gear.

The main crank bearing clearances are worked out to the weight of oil Volvo say you should put in the engine,if it's to thin the engine will run at a lower oil pressure which will cause more wear & with a high mileage motor that is a very bad idea.

0w40 at least

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/8F34B4C3-1927-4A09-9925-7FCAEFE3EF79-2433-0000048096BDEB35_zps35d45335.jpg

[t5 pete]

Engine flush and very thin oil even on a low mileage motor isn't great never mind a 250k motor I would recommend dropping the oil again and putting 10/40 in

[graemewelch]

Engine flush and very thin oil even on a low mileage motor isn't great never mind a 250k motor I would recommend dropping the oil again and putting 10/40 in

ill second that. might sound better when its cold but when that oil is up to temp it might as well be water in there. theres a lot of knolodge and good advise on here form guys who realy know there stuff. at he very least listen and take the advise on board. you dont get second chances one engines when it comes to oil.

[merc85]

Our guide says 5/40 fully or 10w40 at that mileage id certainly suggest a 10w40 buddy. regular oil changes are far better than a oil flush,

[AndysR]

Can never have enough oil changes and whilst I don't think much to the idea of engine flushes I am sure there would have been a little benefit on an engine which hasn't had an oil change in a while. New engine oil grade is a little thin but will be a slight benefit during the colder weather as it'll will be thinner than perhaps the 5w30/5w40 or 10w40 that I'd probably advise you to use. What made you opt for 0w20 anyway?

[t5 pete]

Our guide says 5/40 fully or 10w40 at that mileage id certainly suggest a 10w40 buddy. regular oil changes are far better than a oil flush,

Yup regular oil change is the key to good protection and engine life " as long as you put the correct stuff in"

[JamesT5]

Can never have enough oil changes and whilst I don't think much to the idea of engine flushes I am sure there would have been a little benefit on an engine which hasn't had an oil change in a while. New engine oil grade is a little thin but will be a slight benefit during the colder weather as it'll will be thinner than perhaps the 5w30/5w40 or 10w40 that I'd probably advise you to use. What made you opt for 0w20 anyway?

I wanted to try something that's a little better for colder weather, perhaps I can go for a thicker grade on the next oil change. Oddly the manufacturer of the oil has put a bit description on the back stating basically, that this oil is good stuff that helps engines during long motorway runs and urban driving. Perhaps if the engine blows up, I can sue them for false advertising. :D

[JamesT5]

By the way, the 'friction reducer' came out with the consistency of Marmalade, perhaps that acts as a thickening agent?

[oblark]

If you had used the right oil you wouldn`t a need fricition reducer.

Oil is a fricition reducer.

[Harvey]

0w20 oil is for only one thing to help the mpg numbers on brand new cars,who knows what those engines will be like in 10 years.

[t5 pete]

If you had used the right oil you wouldn`t a need fricition reducer.

Oil is a fricition reducer.

Yup

[merc85]

Yup

like KY lol

[AndysR]

I wanted to try something that's a little better for colder weather, perhaps I can go for a thicker grade on the next oil change. Oddly the manufacturer of the oil has put a bit description on the back stating basically, that this oil is good stuff that helps engines during long motorway runs and urban driving. Perhaps if the engine blows up, I can sue them for false advertising. :D

I think you'll struggle with that a little that's why manufacturers have their own recommendations, really only the latest engines should have that grade of oil tbh. Now you know how easy it is to change the engine oil and filter when you change it again opt for a decent 5w30 or 5w40 and change it frequently, I do mine no longer than every 3,000 miles and that's both the 850 and the 940, some would see that as too frequent but it does no harm at all and for the cost is the best preventative maintenance you can ever do.


By the way, the 'friction reducer' came out with the consistency of Marmalade, perhaps that acts as a thickening agent?

I doubt it tbh... Will probably thin right out with heat.

[Kingsford G]

I mean seriously how cold does it get here or you planning a holiday trip to Siberia?

[t5 pete]

like KY lol

Lol

[JamesT5]

I think you'll struggle with that a little that's why manufacturers have their own recommendations, really only the latest engines should have that grade of oil tbh. Now you know how easy it is to change the engine oil and filter when you change it again opt for a decent 5w30 or 5w40 and change it frequently, I do mine no longer than every 3,000 miles and that's both the 850 and the 940, some would see that as too frequent but it does no harm at all and for the cost is the best preventative maintenance you can ever do.



I doubt it tbh... Will probably thin right out with heat.

I agree about the frequent oil changes, it's something I really want to do more often and if I'm buying my own oil and filter it's probably no more expensive than taking it to National.

[M-R-P]

James, here's a link (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?53315-Thinking-of-going-to-5W-30) to a thread I posted a while ago. My opening post contains some very interesting reading on oils.

I used the same flush on mine last winter and it worked very well (also causes the watery slick on the surface when draining). But if you value that engine, make sure the only driving you do is to the nearest halfrauds to buy some Mobil 10/40 semi-synth so you can drop that 'orrible stuff and put the right stuff in.

I also have a high mileage engine, as you know. I did a bit of research into it and the best thing for them is pretty much what it's always had - 10/40 semi.

Nice to see you back by the way mate :)

[AndysR]

I agree about the frequent oil changes, it's something I really want to do more often and if I'm buying my own oil and filter it's probably no more expensive than taking it to National.

Indeed! I think it's great to see you working on your car and attempting things yourself and it sounds like you've got great intentions and have done a great job but if it were my car I'd probably drop the oil out at the next opportunity and get something a little thicker. MRP puts across probably the most valid advice on oil choice as he's got a car of similar age and mileage to yours etc etc and has been running 10w40 for sometime now. You'll probably find the car will feel just as good on 10w40 as it did on the 0w20 if not better :)

[JamesT5]

Interesting advice coming through on here and I did read that article on another website that MRP has put a link to, above.

Considering what my engine has been running on (i.e. 3 + litres of black sludge), I think what I have running through the engine now is better than that. However, reading the flood of replies that suggest I should use a thicker grade of oil, this I think I will do on my next oil change, perhaps I'll do one slightly earlier than intended, say in 3000 - 4000 miles from now and go from there.

I think that would be seen as a suitable compromise to rushing out and dropping oil I've just paid out for.

[M-R-P]

Not wanting to come across as having a go James, I'd like to think you value my opinion. So, when I say I don't care if you sold your relatives to buy the stuff in your engine at the moment, it'll kill it before 3000 miles....

Don't think badly of me, I just don't want to see you scrap your car.

[merc85]

if you did drain it out, look at it another way, its cleaning the internals even more? expensive way of doing it. but at least its lubricated everything up again after the flush ;)

[t5 pete]

Dont say we didnt tell you and good luck insufficient oil grade can do alot of damage in 3k if it gets to that hopefully it will get to 3k

[claymore]

Please change that oil before you drive the car any distance, or the only place it will be going is the scrapyard.

[graemewelch]

sounds like your engine has a hard life and its going to come to end with that oil. the big ends will be knocking in no time. do it once do it right.

[Biff]

I've been recommended 5w30?
Should I be on 10w 40 then?

[merc85]

I've been recommended 5w30?
Should I be on 10w 40 then?

Ive got 5w40 fully listed and 10w40

[Nealevo]

Well this is going to end badly.... Another car for MRP to trawl over in the scrapers!!

[graemewelch]

Ive got 5w40 fully listed and 10w40

i use 5w40 in mine.

[Biff]

Me thinks another oil change is on the cards then, bugger.
Good job my car hasn't had a dam good hiding for ages.

[AndysR]

I was running 5w30 in my 850 and when the engine was stripped for the rebuild there were no reasons to suggest it was doing any damage what so ever so you will be fine to continue using it provided your engine is in fine fettle ;)

[merc85]

Me thinks another oil change is on the cards then, bugger.
Good job my car hasn't had a dam good hiding for ages.

There is so many different oils and spec's tbh. Its best to select a Brand of oil you like to use, then look up what they suggest for your vehicle as there is so many different spec's between manufacturers , this also changes as the cars get older and oil's become more advanced.

For example using this : http://www.commaoil.com/products entering your reg ie my reg it says 15w40 Comma

Using this : http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricant_selector/default.asp it says 10w40

[JUDGENINJA]

5w40 full synthetic for me... I didn't even know they did 0w20... What's that for a 2stroke?

What ever it is, it doesn't sound good. Whether it'll blow your engine up I'm not sure, but an aged car would usually go for lower grade 10w40 rather than higher..

James... I might heed the others advice or be a rebel like me and end up with a car like my 850that hasn't had an engine in for 6years!!

[Kingsford G]

i use 5w40 in mine.

I`m thinking of going for 5w40 too,have 5w30 in it at the moment more as a flush oil tbh

[Biff]

I was running 5w30 in my 850 and when the engine was stripped for the rebuild there were no reasons to suggest it was doing any damage what so ever so you will be fine to continue using it provided your engine is in fine fettle ;)
Well we have no engine warning lights/rattles or smoke so guess I'm safe. The oil has cleaned itself a few times with the changes.
I tend to use ac delco or Morris but can't remember what it had last. I'll check my receipts methinks.
Thanks boys, I was going to hit the roof with my mate who owns my motor factors.
I'm still arguing the blue/pink anti freeze dilemma!!
I now run pink. Lol

[AndysR]

Well we have no engine warning lights/rattles or smoke so guess I'm safe. The oil has cleaned itself a few times with the changes.
I tend to use ac delco or Morris but can't remember what it had last. I'll check my receipts methinks.
Thanks boys, I was going to hit the roof with my mate who owns my motor factors.
I'm still arguing the blue/pink anti freeze dilemma!!
I now run pink. Lol

I run blue... lol

[M-R-P]

Pink :)

[graemewelch]

Well we have no engine warning lights/rattles or smoke so guess I'm safe. The oil has cleaned itself a few times with the changes.
I tend to use ac delco or Morris but can't remember what it had last. I'll check my receipts methinks.
Thanks boys, I was going to hit the roof with my mate who owns my motor factors.
I'm still arguing the blue/pink anti freeze dilemma!!
I now run pink. Lol

i was warned not to mix them them both as they react adn turn to sludge. i run pink at minute, but id rather had volvo green in it

[AndysR]

i was warned not to mix them them both as they react adn turn to sludge. i run pink at minute, but id rather had volvo green in it

I use Volvo coolant and I'd say it was more blue than green but then I am colourblind.... lol

[M-R-P]

I use Volvo coolant and I'd say it was more blue than green but then I am colourblind.... lol

Is that why you haven't realised Volvo coolant is actually pink?

[Harvey]

I use Volvo coolant and I'd say it was more blue than green but then I am colourblind.... lol

Ok but what water then tap or distilled water.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=distilled%20water%20for%20cars%20radiator&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.castrol.com%2Fcastrol%2Fgener icarticle.do%3FcategoryId%3D9012820%26contentId%3D 6004801&ei=2iuRUqObBsXChAejmYG4Bg&usg=AFQjCNHnFPvb918kjZ5aRTQmY1oCLSrZGg

[Kingsford G]

Well we have no engine warning lights/rattles or smoke so guess I'm safe. The oil has cleaned itself a few times with the changes.
I tend to use ac delco or Morris but can't remember what it had last. I'll check my receipts methinks.
Thanks boys, I was going to hit the roof with my mate who owns my motor factors.
I'm still arguing the blue/pink anti freeze dilemma!!
I now run pink. Lol

I had pink in all my Volvos but the original one is green or blue if u wearing sun glasses like Andy

[merc85]

i was warned not to mix them them both as they react adn turn to sludge. i run pink at minute, but id rather had volvo green in it

im naughty lol i run RED as it matches my hoses, but i know it should be green lmfao

[AndysR]

Not sure didn't do the last fill on it myself, however whenever I've done coolant flushes before I've only normally used tap water despite what I've read I've never experienced any ill effects to the coolant system or running temperature of my cars. Most noticeably I had the coolant system apart on my old Orion about 3 years after it was turbo'd due to a radiator leak, there wasn't even the slightest sign of minerals or such like even after 3 years. That said I do like to drain, flush and replace coolant on a relatively regular basis I never normally fill and forget...

[Nealevo]

im naughty lol i run RED as it matches my hoses, but i know it should be green lmfao

Ha ha so do I, and it is for that exact reason too..

[merc85]

Ha ha so do I, and it is for that exact reason too..

Frankie runs Pink, lol ;) sorry frankie its bin a while lol

[Biff]

Bugger. Lol

[T5frankie]

Frankie runs Pink, lol ;) sorry frankie its bin a while lol

lol and mine is pink

[Biff]

i was warned not to mix them them both as they react adn turn to sludge. i run pink at minute, but id rather had volvo green in it

It's had a new rad & header tank since the change, we're safe. ;)

[T5frankie]

anyway imo 5w30 is also too thin, 5w40 at the minimum for good hot and cold protection, i'll be using 5w50 as mine will get driven harder on the track

[munster732]

James, don't take it as people having a dig at you. Big up for doing it yourself but with all the hassle and expense you have had with this car, no one wants to see you knack the engine for relatively a few quid compared to what you've poured into it.
You pays your money, you takes your choice, but seriously dude get that out of there soon!

[JamesT5]

James, don't take it as people having a dig at you. Big up for doing it yourself but with all the hassle and expense you have had with this car, no one wants to see you knack the engine for relatively a few quid compared to what you've poured into it.
You pays your money, you takes your choice, but seriously dude get that out of there soon!

I do appreciate everyone's advice, of course I do and given all the comments I will change this oil as soon as I can, either way it will have to wait until pay day because I spent my budget (and more) this month of lots of other bits and pieces including all the fuel filter related hardware.

I'll probably opt for MRP's suggestion of ten forty because it seems to be getting the seal of approval from the majority as well as Martin himself.

By the way, as for coolant, I've changed that twice since I've had the car and used Genuine Volvo Coolant (Green/Blue stuff). The first lot I tipped out the car was a really horrible green colour and was not nice at all. Then, this Summer, I dropped out what I had put in the previous year and the colour was more or less the same as it was when I had put it in about a year earlier (so a massive improvement). I always flush the system through with tap water and then reseal and fill with fresh coolant, 50/50 with tap water. The Main Stealers say tap water is all they use and it's fine - can't argue with a Master Tech now can I! ;)

[Gold 'N' Brown]

James, I think you are taking quite a risk running this oil for another few thousand miles. Do you really want to risk engine damage for the sake getting your money's worth from the oil and additives you've put in? Which amounts to what, about 50 quids worth maybe? It just doesn't make any sense. I know it's a bitter pill to swallow when you make an expensive mistake, but do you want it to run in to an even more expensive mistake? Drop the oil ASAP and just think of it as a 2nd engine flush.

You say you chose the 0W20 as you wanted something with better cold weather protection. A 0W40 would have been a safer bet, or even a 5W40, that way you still have suitable viscocity at operating temperature. As already said, with your engine being high mileage, a thinner oil has the potential to lower your oil pressure. Your engine will likely be well worn in and looser, with bigger component tolerances, so the oil is going to flow more freely, hence why people are recommending you stick with a thicker oil. Using something too thin is probably just as bad as running the right oil at a low level, or even the right oil that's a bit old and dirty.

The choice is yours of course, but don't be too proud to take this on the chin and correct the mistake before it's too late.

[JamesT5]

James, I think you are taking quite a risk running this oil for another few thousand miles. Do you really want to risk engine damage for the sake getting your money's worth from the oil and additives you've put in? Which amounts to what, about 50 quids worth maybe? It just doesn't make any sense. I know it's a bitter pill to swallow when you make an expensive mistake, but do you want it to run in to an even more expensive mistake? Drop the oil ASAP and just think of it as a 2nd engine flush.

You say you chose the 0W20 as you wanted something with better cold weather protection. A 0W40 would have been a safer bet, or even a 5W40, that way you still have suitable viscocity at operating temperature. As already said, with your engine being high mileage, a thinner oil has the potential to lower your oil pressure. Your engine will likely be well worn in and looser, with bigger component tolerances, so the oil is going to flow more freely, hence why people are recommending you stick with a thicker oil. Using something too thin is probably just as bad as running the right oil at a low level, or even the right oil that's a bit old and dirty.

The choice is yours of course, but don't be too proud to take this on the chin and correct the mistake before it's too late.

I refer you to my comment above. :B_thumb: ;)

[jamesy12345]

10W/40 for me cos that is what in the book. It doesn't usually get cold enough in the UK to mess about with thinner oils, at least for my 90's technology engine anyway. Coolant blue also but it wasn't Volvo stuff.

[JamesT5]

I wonder if this is thick enough..... :D :hilarious

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penrite-Classic-Light-HPR30-20W-60-oil-4-x-5-litres-/161154033518?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item258587676e

[JamesT5]

Before the oil change I had this nasty knocking sound or "tap tap tap tap tap tap tap", coming from the area near the gearbox bell housing, to start with I thought it may have been the DMF but since putting this thinner oil in and all the additives it has almost gone away completely. Reassuring but also slightly worrying as to what it was, all at the same time. :shifty: :wtf: