V70R 03model, poor running.

[Nev]

Afternoon,

Car running slowly... Not too slow but doesn't pick up as it should, feels like its about 100 horses down.
Under hard acceleration it seems to hold back and I can feel it surging. It used to go like stink so something is wrong.

No fault codes showing, no warning lights.
I found a vacuum leak this afternoon, fixed.
Checked plugs and they look perfect, correct colour, gap etc.
Checked air filter, it's got a cone filter that its always had in my ownership. Found that for some reason there was a rubber restrictor taking diameter down to 65mm. Seems odd to me that one, so removed just in case the hot weather meant it wasn't breathing properly.
Took out for a run and it was a touch better, but still pants. Yes, it is 27 degrees out here, but it is surging as opposed to just slow.

I have the car running LPG or petrol and it does the same on both which, to me, means its not fuel related.

Any ideas welcome...
Cheers, nev

[graemewelch]

saying as theres no codes it could be possible the cat is blocked. ive sold a few downpipes duevto this problem.

what was used to read the codes. only volvo software will pick up all codes. if a generic one has been used there could be codes there but it cant read them

[Chad]

Hi,

does it do it all the time?

any specific temperature?

The cats blocked would cause that too.

[Nev]

Just a generic code reader, so yeah, probably won't pick up everything, if anything useful.
Yes it does it all the time. Not really noticeable at part throttle unless you know it's doing it. Just feels like its holding back, but at full beans its like its being strangled.

I've not really noticed a slow depreciation in performance which is what I would expect with blocked cat.

I thought it may have been the waste gate stuck but not really sure how to check. The actuator rod moves, although I was very surprised at how strong the spring is. I haven't had chance to fit a boost gauge to see if its actually boosting.
This wouldn't give the surging tho, just low performance.

[M-R-P]

Could be fpr, blocked cat, blocked fuel filter, split intercooler... Can't think of anything else offhand. Luckily, being a 03 plate, you won't have to worry about the throttle module.

[Harvey]

Just try the cars reader , key on lights on dash,hold read button on L/H stalk on then press rear fog light switch 3 times very quickly then the display will show if there are any faults set in the car.
Let got of read button when it says reading codes or something like that.
Press the read button to move down the list.
Best have a pen and paper as there are a lot of things it can say.

[Nev]

I don't think it's the fpr or filter as it is the same on petrol or LPG.
Would a split intercooler cause the surging, never had a burst one before. I can't hear anything as if its blowing excess air out, but the car is so noisy I don't know if I would.

[Nev]

Just try the cars reader , key on lights on dash,hold read button on L/H stalk on then press rear fog light switch 3 times very quickly then the display will show if there are any faults set in the car.
Let got of read button when it says reading codes or something like that.
Press the read button to move down the list.
Best have a pen and paper as there are a lot of things it can say.


I shall give that a go. Didn't know it was possible.
If the wife doesn't get back too late I shall try later.

Thanks for all the help up to now.

[silverhorse]

If the wife doesn't get back too late I shall try later.



Thats your problem right there. Your wife is driving the car!

[graemewelch]

if there anything i can help with give me a shout im just up the road. cant do much in my condition though

[Nev]

Well, checked codes. A couple are ok.

Srs, dim, rti,swm, phm, all say Ready so seem fine.
Everything else says checking or dtc set.

I haven't had chance to look up what things are yet as I am doing 12 hr shifts at mo, but I guess that dtc set means probs have been around for a while and Checking suggests there are new issues developing.

Sum, psm, sas, tcm, all say checking.

Oh joy, now to trawl through the possibilities.

Hopefully I will have a bit of time tomorrow to check intercooler etc.


Thanks Graeme, one day I will come and see you. Hope you are ok

[Harvey]

The only ones that say dtc set need a look at

Turn key to position II or start the engine.
Press and hold down [READ] on the turn signal lever, and press the rear fog light
button 3 times quickly.
Press [READ] to advance to the next item.

Text Window
Description

CHECKING DTCS
Checking the Diagnostics Trouble Codes.
DTCS IN VEHICLE
Diagnostics Trouble Codes present in vehicle.

DTCS IN VEHICLE
BCM DTC SET
Brake Control Module.

DTCS IN VEHICLE
SAS CHECKING
Steering Wheel Angle Sensor.

DTCS IN VEHICLE
SRS CHECKING
Safety Restraint System

DTCS IN VEHICLE
ECM DTC SET
Engine Control Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
AUM READY
Audio Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
CEM DTC SET
Center Control Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
DIM READY
Driver Information Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
DDM DTC SET
Driver Door Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
CCM CHECKING
Climate Control Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
PDM DTC SET
Passenger Door Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
PSM CHECKING
Front Seat Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
REM CHECKING
Rear Electric Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
SWM READY
Steering Wheel Module

DTCS IN VEHICLE
UEM READY
Upper Electronic Module

[Nev]

Well, looking at the codes it's got to be to do with the ECM, as the rest seem to be to do with ancillary things like doors.

However, there are a couple that mean nothing to me so may be causing issues.

UEM
REM
CCM

Cheers

[Nev]

Forgot to say, I read the meanings for the code just don't know what the REM is for etc

[Nev]

Well, codes read with dice.
Nothing too bad, not as many as expected. Mainly stupid things like door locks and mirrors.

The one that concerns me was ECM-6806 flow too low

Will be connecting a gauge in the next couple of days to see if its even boosting.
I rechecked vacuum pipes and intercooler again and found nothing wrong.

Which leaves me with it being TCV, MAF, or blocked cat that restricts flow to give same symptoms, as has already been suggested.

Graeme, your cat replacement pipes, are they a straight swap for the front pipe?, and how much do you charge?

[graemewelch]

your welcome to try my maf and tcv if easily removed. youll have to do the donkey work though as im not very mobile at minute. as for down pipe yes they are a straight swap. for a 200 cell down pipe your looking at 275 ish

[Nev]

Thanks Graeme.

I'm going to check boost before anything else. It feels to me like the waste gate is stuck open. Had that issue on a saab years ago. Sort of hoping its mechanical thing rather than electrics.

When you say 200 cell, is that still a cat but free flowing?
I would actually like to remove cat altogether and just have a straight pipe if the car will run like that.

[graemewelch]

yes thats a 200 cell cat. standard cats are 400 cell. i can to a decat or a pipe wear you can use a 200cell cat or straight pipe. can have a bit crack about it some time

[jdavis]

REM is rear electronics module. Controls rear lights, wiper, fuel flap etc

[Nev]

Update.

Boost gauge fitted, piped from back of actuator so should be reading ok, although can change fairly easily to one of the other pipes from TCV.

My boost gauge doesn't sit at -0.3bar when off the car, but assuming that where it sits is 0 then my max boost is 3 psi. If where it sits is normal then it reaches 0 on the gauge. I have another gauge in a different car that always sits below zero too, same make so I think gauges are poor. Tim gauges.

Tried car last night with MAF disconnected and it ran with less surging, but still no power.
Connected gauge and tried with MAF disconnected then connected, no difference.

So it looks like I have no boost, hence no performance.

Not MAF related.
Is there anything else other than TCV that controls boost. I haven't had chance to get pipes off and physically check waste gate inside turbo. Engine is very hot and it looks a bit tight in there, so that will have to wait.

Just an aside, I ran the engine without the MAF pipe on, if I had a pipe to the outside of the car I reckon it would Hoover up little dogs and children and the induction noise was noticeably louder.

[M-R-P]

The boost gauge shouldn't be connected to the actuator mate, it should be teed into the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the recirc valve on the turbo. At idle, it should read about -20 psi - yes minus 20 psi - the manifold runs vacuum until under load then you should see 16+ psi at full chat.

[Nev]

Ok, sounds good.

Can I connect to a different pipe from the TCV or do I need to break into the larger diameter pipe that has some sort of valve in it that runs along behind the MAF pipe?

[M-R-P]

Nope - leave the tcv alone, you want the small pipe that runs from the passenger side of the inlet manifold, round the side of the engine to the turbo.
And the large pipe with the valve in it is the vac feed for the brake servo so best leave that alone too lol.

[Nev]

Thanks.
I shall have a quick peak before the boss goes out.
Hopefully I will find the correct pipe easily.

Cheers

[M-R-P]

See arrowed...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/martinrpeachey/Snapbucket/a64ee2e3-90cf-4233-8a6a-5d030825a422_zpsbec1b417.jpg (http://s1100.photobucket.com/user/martinrpeachey/media/Snapbucket/a64ee2e3-90cf-4233-8a6a-5d030825a422_zpsbec1b417.jpg.html)

It'll have a 4mm i/d black pipe heading off round the side of the engine. tee into that for your gauge :)

[Nev]

Changed pipe work over, thank you.

Tried and gauge now working as it should.

My gauge goes to -1bar. On the overrun it goes below mark, so sounds correct.
Full boost goes to approx 0.2bar on gauge.

As I said earlier, gauge sits around -0.3bar with engine off, so probably calibrated incorrectly. Taking this into consideration I still have only 0.5bar, so around 7psi. No wonder its slow.

[Nev]

Your pic has just come through as I clicked send for post.
That's the one I've teed into

[graemewelch]

if i was you id consider taking it to the volvo specialest over the water at north tyneside. they are very good and fair and know there stuff.

http://www.autofixnortheastltd.co.uk/

[Nev]

I may do that.
I've heard of them but don't know anyone thats used them.
Going to ring them and see why they say first

[M-R-P]

I would say check the wastegate isn't stuck but it's normally the 16t that does that. if it's not making full boost at the manifold then there's either a leak somewhere in the charge air system or the tcv is stuck open and dumping boost.

[Nev]

I only hope it's nothing too expensive.
I've checked for leaks a few times, but that's not to say I haven't missed one somewhere.
The actuator arm moves, but as before, it doesn't mean that it's connected properly, but too hot and fiddly for now, I lose the car in 10 mins and then nightshift tonight so no more playing until Saturday.

I have rang the garage and am waiting for them to ring back. I shall see what he says too. If not too expensive I can look up there sometime.

[M-R-P]

If it's been bad for a while, a boost leak in the big pipes will be highlighted by oil deposits. Check around the joins between rubber/solid hoses and hoses/intercooler connections. it might just be a slack jubilee clip or something.

[Nev]

I have no tell tale signs like that.
I thought the same myself.
I haven't had it on a ramp tho so I don't know if there are any pipes underneath that I have missed

[M-R-P]

A split intercooler could also be a possibility :(

[Nev]

Yeah, I've heard that happens too. Don't want that.
I haven't checked intercooler, only pipes to it and from it, or them, I think it has two.
Hmm, just thought, there must be a joining pipe if it has two and I definitely haven't checked that if its there.
Oh well, have to wait now as boss has gone out.

[graemewelch]

if you want to pop up at wkd ill have a look over it of want.

[Nev]

Thanks Graeme, I shall see what we have planned. When I say we, well, you know...

Had a thought last night at work.

On my other cars the TCV clicks when energised with the ignition on, should these on the volvo?
I've just checked and this one doesn't. I held it while the ignition was switched on, can't feel anything switching and can't hear anything. Then started engine and still can't feel anything.

Could someone have a look at theirs please, unfortunately it's a two person job unless you have really long arms.

[M-R-P]

Take the pipes off and fit an MBC (leave the tcv connected to the loom tho), it'll help diagnose the tcv :)

My TCV is cable tied to the strut brace and it's an IPD one so I probably wouldn't be much help for the clicking thing :D

[Nev]

Ok.
I don't have an MBC here, only a bleed valve, which isn't the same thing, or is it.
If I take the pipes from the TCV will it not just give the car atmospheric pressure at all times and confuse it?

[M-R-P]

Fold the pipe to the inlet over so it won't suck in air.
Then plumb the bleed valve in (if there's a 3rd port on the bleed valve, plumb that into the folded pipe) set the valve to it's lowest setting so you don't overboost it and give it a go. then adjust accordingly.

[Nev]

Bleed valve only has two ports.
Sorry, I'm being stupid here, nightshift brain.
The pipe to the inlet? There are three pipes on the TCV, I assume one of those is to be folded, but I can't see where they go to.

[M-R-P]

the big pipe from the maf to the turbo has a small pipe on it, fed from end of the tcv, that one :)

[Nev]

I shall look right now

[960kg]

The boost gauge shouldn't be connected to the actuator mate, it should be teed into the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the recirc valve on the turbo. At idle, it should read about -20 psi - yes minus 20 psi - the manifold runs vacuum until under load then you should see 16+ psi at full chat.

Minus Vacuum is in inches of mercury and not psi!..........In.Hg......

[M-R-P]

Thanks for putting me right on that as it has a considerable bearing on the problem at hand ;)

[Nev]

Pipe work done, screw just open.
Will try on the way to work, hopefully no boost now, or very little and then I can adjust for drive home in morning.
Thank you for all the help and advice, will update tomorrow.

Nev

[stribo]

Minus Vacuum is in inches of mercury and not psi!..........In.Hg......

Minus Vacuum is pressure therefore psi, or equivalent. ;)

[Nev]

Tried last night. Really good result.
Boosting steady at around 0.6bar. Car much smoother and responsive.
Opened valve a little before coming home but it all went a bit Pete tong.
Ran rough and I could hear an air leak.
Connected TCV again as had some running around today, no leaks evident so must have been the blocked pipe not sealed fully. Boost at zero as before.
Will redo in morning as out for the day so should be able to tweak whilst out.

[M-R-P]

I'm thinking your tcv is playing up mate... You've got it plumbed in correctly haven't you?

[Dream3r]

Sounds like you are running on WG spring pressure mate. Try a new TCV they are known to fail.

Check the vac pipes again as well. Careful with excessive boost on these blocks, if you start to get overshoot, let it adapt.

[Nev]

I think it's the TCV too, just needed to be fairly certain before spending.
Plumbed in standard, yes, never touched it until now.
I hope it's TCV that is the issue as its relatively cheap and easy to replace. From what I've read, the standard ones are pretty poor. What's recommended, ipd seem to be favourite and reasonably priced.

[Dream3r]

Just get a stock one, there like £40...

The IPD ones are rubbish. MAC Valves are the way to go, but I wouldn't complicate your issue further by introducing another variable.

[Nev]

Good point about complicating issues.
The chances are the one on the car could be original, in which case it's lasted 155k. I have quite a few bills from previous owners and nothing related to it.

[Dream3r]

Lol, I've had my car 20k and I'm on my 3rd.

[Nev]

Hmm, maybe the paperwork just doesn't list them as changed because they were too embarrassed to let anyone see.
I've done 16k in mine but its been strange for a couple of k now, just not had the time to investigate fully

[Dream3r]

I think mine is knacked after each trackday, although I just notice the boost not being 'smooth' as it was and change it. I've got a MAC valve now to try and see if it lasts longer. I don't think they last as long when mapped either.

[Nev]

My doesnt do track days, just normal driving at no more than 70mph. I would love to get it on a track but be scared for what breaks....

Std TCV it will be, hopefully ill get one this morning. If not, another few days won't hurt

[M-R-P]

I have had an ipd tcv in mine for ages and it's fine. there was a dodgy batch a while ago that gave them a bad name I think.

[Nev]

I can't get one today so will have to wait until next week. Or hit a scrap yard tomorrow if I can be bothered.

I've only read good things about ipd recently so maybe there was a bad batch. I've not read much about the MAC ones.

[LeeT5]

I have had an ipd tcv in mine for ages and it's fine. there was a dodgy batch a while ago that gave them a bad name I think.

Yes. IPD have sorted the problem and are now running TCV mkII.

[Dream3r]

It's an overpriced MAC Valve - you know this right?

[M-R-P]

It's an overpriced MAC Valve - you know this right?

I was not aware of that but I wouldn't say it was overpriced as I paid 25 quid for mine lol :)

[Dream3r]

cheap!

[M-R-P]

cheap!

Yes - I am lol.

I got it "nearly new" pulled it apart, cleaned it and stuck it back together.

good as new ;)

[Nev]

I had to give up.
Fitted a new TCV, boost steady at 0.5bar but no more, then it made a bang.
Sounds like something broken in the awd side of things.
Now at Autofix for surgery, no time to fix myself unfortunately. Waiting for them to give me a figure for repairs.
Going to get the gearbox oil changed while they have it too, can't hurt, and they are going to check for updates etc.
Hoping its not too expensive but at least when I get it back it should be like new mechanically.

[graemewelch]

its in good hands. hope dosnt hurt your pocket to much

[Nev]

As long as the angle gear has survived it should be almost ok.
Dealer says he has never heard of the gear breaking on v70, but forums seem to be full of stories, so I shall see.
I just don't have the time to repair it, already got one car on the drive waiting for the engine to be refitted, can't be done with another. Not enough time in a day...

[graemewelch]

any news mate. is it a project car on your drive. spill the beans

[Nev]

No news yet, I don't expect to hear until Friday earliest. I had to take it up when I could get it there due to work, they are fully booked until Thursday.

I have old saabs too. Old 900's and 9000's. Changed gearbox and welding up where required before refitting the lump. And fixing anything else I find wrong with it whilst I'm on. (900 Ruby).
My early flat front 9000 Carlsson, is probably going to have to go the journey, but may become one with a 900T16s that I have hanging around. What I have planned for them is a huge project, but not sure if I will ever get the time.

I've been looking for a storage facility for a while to allow these plans to come together as I have no garage here. Plenty of places, but none in budget or distance.

[graemewelch]

hope wasnt bad news on thurs for you

[Nev]

hope wasnt bad news on thurs for you

They still haven't got back to me.
Rang them last Friday and they said they would be looking at it today.
Will be ringing them tomorrow morning as I haven't heard today.
As long as the angle gear is ok it hold only cost an arm... I will post when I find out

[Nev]

Well, bad news it was. Very bad news.
Angle gear, spline thingy, prop shaft. Couldn't really be worse. All expensive bits. Going to try to get prop repaired, failing that a second hand one if I can find one.

He couldn't find anything wrong with the boost issue and says it seems to be as fast as they normally are. Maybe I'm just used to it, although it feels dog slow to me.
He has however, found a broken wire to the accelerometer sensor, so hoping when that's repaired that it might be better. I'm hoping its trying to nanny the performance.

Gearbox is acting up too, although I already told him that so he is going to change fluid and update software. Should be good after that.

Anyway, big bill, but should be worth it. Car worth nothing really if its broken, and to purchase another similar is silly money.

Hey ho, that's life I suppose

[jdavis]

Hope it's fixed soon mate

Where's this broken wire to the accelerometer? mine keeps popping up on vida as accelerometer sensor faulty

[graemewelch]

thats not good news. try drivelink on the valley for your prop. they are very good and resonable. if was me id be tempted to get a fwd gearbox and have a 2wd R. hope you manage to source the bits you need for as little as possible

[Nev]

Hope it's fixed soon mate

Where's this broken wire to the accelerometer? mine keeps popping up on vida as accelerometer sensor faulty

It's hanging down behind/ beside the front passenger side wheel. Almost looks as if it could be driven over in reverse. Black cable, looks like 3 core.

[Nev]

thats not good news. try drivelink on the valley for your prop. they are very good and resonable. if was me id be tempted to get a fwd gearbox and have a 2wd R. hope you manage to source the bits you need for as little as possible

I thought about the gearbox change but it really defeats the object of an R. Plus, my drive is steep to get in and out and I bought the awd so that I can get to work in the winter. Well, get out of the drive anyway, the rest is easy.
Cost wise for a gearbox change wasn't that much cheaper either, a few hundred, but what it would knock off in fun and value, I think I would like it as it should be. I don't plan on selling it, and its my daily run around. I could spend loads more if I was actually buying a newer car. At least I only have repair costs, not purchase too...

[jdavis]

thanks. Mine gets identified as being in the centre console though. must be a different sensor

[graemewelch]

I thought about the gearbox change but it really defeats the object of an R. Plus, my drive is steep to get in and out and I bought the awd so that I can get to work in the winter. Well, get out of the drive anyway, the rest is easy.
Cost wise for a gearbox change wasn't that much cheaper either, a few hundred, but what it would knock off in fun and value, I think I would like it as it should be. I don't plan on selling it, and its my daily run around. I could spend loads more if I was actually buying a newer car. At least I only have repair costs, not purchase too...


dont blame ya. id prob wouldnt go 2wd either if had a R.

[Nev]

It was a tough decision, but I think worth it. It's pretty quick and gets me about in the winter, so it's a bonus really. Also, there won't be many Rs about soon, especially if people make them fwd, so it's value can only rise. Might take twenty years, but the amount I'm spending on repairs ill still have it. Even in twenty years time it's going to be a special motor

[Squirtydog]

Angle gear, spline thingy, prop shaft. Couldn't really be worse. All expensive bits...

...Gearbox is acting up too, although I already told him that so he is going to change fluid and update software. Should be good after that.

Anyway, big bill, but should be worth it. Car worth nothing really if its broken, and to purchase another similar is silly money.

Hey ho, that's life I suppose

Suddenly following this with interest. Keep us updated. Sounds like your bill could me my worst case scenario. I feel the same. Car worth nothing broken. I'll just have to suck it up and get the work done whatever it turns out to be and decide from there if I get rid afterwards. I haven't found a specialist local to me who are willing to tackle transmission issues in these cars however.
Good luck.

[M-R-P]

For the record - an R is worth several thousand pounds in parts lads ;)

[Squirtydog]

For the record - an R is worth several thousand pounds in parts lads ;)

Wash your mouth out.:troutslap
It's not dead yet.

[LeeT5]

For the record - an R is worth several thousand pounds in parts lads ;)

How very dare you!! :ashamed:

[Nev]

Well, it's back.

New angle gear, spline kit, gearbox flush and software update. New discs, pads and shoes to rear. Accelerometer reconnected. Shiny new mot too.
No faults showing at all now.
Runs really well, reasonably fast. Doesn't boost very high but apparently drives as quick as they normally do. It does seem fast and for the first time ever I managed 7k revs. Didn't hit limiter, but it used to be like driving a donkey diesel and lose power at about 6k,(still more than diesel, but the feeling was the same) whereas now it keeps pulling.
Drives well, smooth etc etc.

Other than having to give up an arm and leg and sell a kidney I'm very happy.

Nev

[Nev]

For the record - an R is worth several thousand pounds in parts lads ;)

When I said broken, I meant as in not working. I know it was worth a few quid in parts, but is far too nice to have scrapped off.
I would bet that all of the Rs on the bay that are for bits have angle gear issues.
Hopefully most people will scrap them off when it gets expensive which will make mine worth loads and loads.......

[stribo]

For the record - an R is worth several thousand pounds in parts lads ;)

For the record, an R is several thousand pounds better than a T5. :P


Well, it's back.

New angle gear, spline kit, gearbox flush and software update. New discs, pads and shoes to rear. Accelerometer reconnected. Shiny new mot too.
No faults showing at all now.
Runs really well, reasonably fast. Doesn't boost very high but apparently drives as quick as they normally do. It does seem fast and for the first time ever I managed 7k revs. Didn't hit limiter, but it used to be like driving a donkey diesel and lose power at about 6k,(still more than diesel, but the feeling was the same) whereas now it keeps pulling.
Drives well, smooth etc etc.

Other than having to give up an arm and leg and sell a kidney I'm very happy.

Nev

Glad you've got it back, and sorted mate. O.K., they're not cheap when they have a hissy fit, but when they're running properly, there's no Volvo to beat it. :D

[Harvey]

Nice to see its back,hope not to many body parts were sold.:shockedbi

[graemewelch]

good to hear its back to its good self again. how did you find the service from the people that fixed it. i found them to spot on the two times i used them. realy helpful people and seem to realy know there stuff.

[Nev]

good to hear its back to its good self again. how did you find the service from the people that fixed it. i found them to spot on the two times i used them. realy helpful people and seem to realy know there stuff.

They were really good.

There were no issues when I had to have a think about what I wanted doing.
I had to have the prop shaft repaired and they weren't worried if I wanted to get it done rather than them find a repairer.
Very good service from my side of things, seemed to be pretty knowledgeable, and I've got it back working.
I never ever use garages for anything as I have had loads of issues in the past, but this garage were good.
I looked at the pics on their website and am pleased to say that it is as clean in real life. Really good to see.

I will use them again if I need to, although I still prefer to do things myself, but wouldn't have an issue with sending it there.

[graemewelch]

same here, i prefer to do things myself but there are somethings that should be left to those that know. like setting the vvc. its a canny hike to get there but its worth the extra bit travel to know its in good hands and they can be trusted, i noticed there workshop was nice and clean.

[Squirtydog]

Glad to hear it's sorted. Big R hurdle over with too even though it has hit your wallet. I was glad to hear that all is well with mine today except I can't help but feel that an angle gear issue is a matter of when not if with these cars the more I read.

[Nev]

Glad to hear it's sorted. Big R hurdle over with too even though it has hit your wallet. I was glad to hear that all is well with mine today except I can't help but feel that an angle gear issue is a matter of when not if with these cars the more I read.


The guy in the garage says he has done five or six angle gear replacements, not bad really considering the amount of awd cars out there.
He assured me that mine was original, so it's lasted 10 years and 156k miles. That's not bad really.
Gives me time to save for the next time, I think I'll still have the car then as it ticks all the boxes. Mine is especially useful as it runs on gas so makes it fairly cheap to run.

I was please to read that yours was ok, let's hope it stays well. In fairness to mine it started rattling a few thousand miles ago. If I had bothered to look or have it looked at, I may have only needed the spline repair kit, but at the mileage I think it was probably up for renewal soon regardless. I was also very lucky that the propshaft was repairable, a new one was near enough £1100.