LeeT5's V70R Project

[LeeT5]

Well i thought I'd update you all in the last few months to some of the things I've been up to. Purchased myself some of these (when a friend of mine visited the states, saved me a fortune on import fee's)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1409_zps7106ee74.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1409_zps7106ee74.jpg.html)

Fitted:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1410_zps7218ad31.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1410_zps7218ad31.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1411_zps871ee6d9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1411_zps871ee6d9.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1412_zps7c18a53f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_1412_zps7c18a53f.jpg.html)

Also (as you know) removed my Eibachs and had brand new OE springs fitted and also had the important rear bushes replaced with Powerflex:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Powerflexbushesphp_zpseca69025.jpeg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/Powerflexbushesphp_zpseca69025.jpeg.html)

#5, 6, 7 and 10 were replaced.

No 10:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1254_zps986a61fa.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1254_zps986a61fa.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1251_zpsb9cb66b9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1251_zpsb9cb66b9.jpg.html)

No 6:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1252_zpsbd23684f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1252_zpsbd23684f.jpg.html)

No7 + New Road springs:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1244_zps4a99d93d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1244_zps4a99d93d.jpg.html)

Then it was off to Elite, Rainham, Essex to have four wheel alignment checked, the results:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1239_zps02a5042a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1239_zps02a5042a.jpg.html)

Not looking good....so a few adjustments here and there.........

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1238_zps58b3aedc.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1238_zps58b3aedc.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1237_zps9416aff7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1237_zps9416aff7.jpg.html)

Final results:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1249_zps00c68774.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1249_zps00c68774.jpg.html)
Sweet!!!

Rear mudguards removed and spacers kept on 15mm rear:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1304_zpscb88f3fc.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1304_zpscb88f3fc.jpg.html)

12mm front:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1302_zpse0877ddf.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Suspension/IMG_1302_zpse0877ddf.jpg.html)

[graemewelch]

looking good lee. how did the solid front mount change the ride and viabration in the cabin can be much more you can do to that motor of yours. loving the plate. never noticed it befor

[JimmyBurnWorld]

Nice write up. Nice to see the powerflex diagrams related to real pictures!
Out of interest, is the camber at the rear intentional? Or is it just that they couldn't get it back into tolerance? How have the powerflex rear bushes changes things? Stiffer? Sharper? More road noise?

[LeeT5]

.....Then i thought I'd out the old high beam halogens for some extra bright ones. Don't get me wrong, there never going to be HID brightness, but a subtle improvement has been noticed

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1300_zps4c030905.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1300_zps4c030905.jpg.html)

Before:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1309_zps6fe92c06.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1309_zps6fe92c06.jpg.html)

After:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1310_zps01904d18.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1310_zps01904d18.jpg.html)

Then i outed the front fog light grille's and fitted the later 05> versions:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1344_zps5c83c219.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1344_zps5c83c219.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1341_zpsa7efaff2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1341_zpsa7efaff2.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1342_zpsd48fe837.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1342_zpsd48fe837.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1339_zps27502440.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1339_zps27502440.jpg.html)

drove down to my local stealer and purchased........

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1395_zpsffa8fab7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1395_zpsffa8fab7.jpg.html)

Then I removed my tired, worn fronts seats that had done 130k and replaced them with two newish front seats that have done only 40k. Used the Volvo leather treatment and it works a treat. The results are gorgeous! Some portions of the seats still have that grainy new leather look.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1421_zpsa11d1927.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1421_zpsa11d1927.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1420_zps71297044.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1420_zps71297044.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1419_zps2765dd0f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1419_zps2765dd0f.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1418_zpse29bdd66.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1418_zpse29bdd66.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1417_zps4fcafd65.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1417_zps4fcafd65.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1416_zps5aa54fa6.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1416_zps5aa54fa6.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

.........Then i cleaned up my steering wheel......and gearknob....Alot of the blue stitching was black with dirt. This stuff brought it right back!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1415_zpsc529ce79.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1415_zpsc529ce79.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1414_zps08219bc0.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1414_zps08219bc0.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1413_zps096c420e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1413_zps096c420e.jpg.html).

Then i Dynamatted the rear boot area.......

Before:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1312_zpsb2970dec.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1312_zpsb2970dec.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1311_zps66e22e42.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1311_zps66e22e42.jpg.html)

After:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1314_zps4a753820.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1314_zps4a753820.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1313_zps91b30541.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_1313_zps91b30541.jpg.html)

Bought myself a TWR badge for the rear (I am still playing with the badges, moving them about until I'm settled on a permanent look):

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1308_zpsbf92b774.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1308_zpsbf92b774.jpg.html)

.....and continued the theme down the side.........

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1265_zps684ce459.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1265_zps684ce459.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1266_zpsa6ecb26f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1266_zpsa6ecb26f.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1277_zpsa579742a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_1277_zpsa579742a.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1343_zps79632315.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1343_zps79632315.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

Here's how she looks now....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1350_zpsaeefa645.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1350_zpsaeefa645.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1349_zps556bf126.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1349_zps556bf126.jpg.html)
(I have moved the Dart TAg from the middle of the windscreen. It can't be seen now:wink:)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1348_zpsea69ee6e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1348_zpsea69ee6e.jpg.html)

Now I'm gonna sit back and chew the fat for a month or two. Then it's new windscreen, Power steering fluid change, replace o/s/f fog light (new one sitting on shelf in garage).

[graemewelch]

no rest for the wickered lee. loving the little touches except for window stickers. you cant be perfect all the time though lol

[LeeT5]

looking good lee. how did the solid front mount change the ride and viabration in the cabin can be much more you can do to that motor of yours. loving the plate. never noticed it befor

I must point out i did have Powerflex bushes on the strut, but these improve it no end! First thing i noticed was the steering felt more positive, sharper. There is a noticeable feel of the road through the steering but it's not unpleasant. A definite improvement!


Nice write up. Nice to see the powerflex diagrams related to real pictures!
Out of interest, is the camber at the rear intentional? Or is it just that they couldn't get it back into tolerance? How have the powerflex rear bushes changes things? Stiffer? Sharper? More road noise?

The camber, as you all know, on the rear of a P2 is NOT adjustable by default. I did think that fitting normal (when i say normal, i mean, Not the IPD adjustable ones) bushes would bring it right back into spec but having spoke with the alignment guys and a couple of techs it would appear the newer, stiffer Powerflex bushes are not allowing the car to settle and therefore the camber spec i have now, is what the car is stuck with. If i removed ALL the P/F bushes and fitted OE then the spec would be within Volvo spec because the bushes are that much softer they allow the car to settle more.

Please also bear in mind that i had a full tank of fuel at the time. Had the tank been nearly empty then the results would have been within spec.

I will point out one more thing. Although, on paper, the camber looks bad; it's not! In fact, were only talking less than half of 1 degree to be within spec. Honestly, that's really nothing to be concerned about. Having done a couple of thousand miles since then, i can report no excess wear on the rear tyres. It is constantly monitored and will be addressed if it becomes an issue.

The important thing to note is that i wanted -0.02 front and parallel rear. I think they did mightily well in achieving my goal with a total steer ahead of 0.00 too!!!

A friend of mine drove my car a few weeks ago and the first thing he said was..."Blimey, your steering is spot on!"
I rest my case.

[smithson007]

Very nice looking car mate.

[LeeT5]

no rest for the wickered lee. loving the little touches except for window stickers. you cant be perfect all the time though lol

Noted. They are easily removed if i don't like 'em. I like them because they break up rear end mass which is the back window.

[volvokid]

You know my opinion on your car, you do no wrong :p

[Harvey]

Looking good as always.
The fog light grill are for the cars with auto boxes as you can get a transmission oil cooler that fit behind the N/S grill,but they were fitted to the R cars 2003> it looks like what grills the factory had at the time were fitted.
I changed my grills to vented ones when I fitted the IPD vent kit. And my car is a auto.

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?43277-2004-2007-R-Ram-air

[Harvey]

Lee looking at the rear bush photos ,looks like the black powerflex ones do you think they are a bit to hard to allow the rear to move to get the settings you were after ?.

[LeeT5]

Lee looking at the rear bush photos ,looks like the black powerflex ones do you think they are a bit to hard to allow the rear to move to get the settings you were after ?.

No mate. I don't want the rear to move! At all!!

I'm happy with the setup. Just gotta tweak it a little to try and smooth out the side hop. Had next to none when it was lowered.
Trade off i suppose, at least i get a more comfy ride. Not being funny but Comfort is still very firm. It just doesn't jitter about like it used to with the eibachs.

[Harvey]

I must say my car just stays on comfort all the time,driving a van 6 days a week it makes the car even more comfortable to be in.

[V70 Graham]

One of the cars we don't see enough of on the forum, always a pleasure to see pictures of this beauty.

I'm with Graeme though, not sure about the rear window stickers.....time will tell.

[Wobbly Dave]

Always loved your car Lee. How did you get on with the sound deadening you bought off me?

[volvokid]

Looking good as always.
The fog light grill are for the cars with auto boxes as you can get a transmission oil cooler that fit behind the N/S grill,but they were fitted to the R cars 2003> it looks like what grills the factory had at the time were fitted.
I changed my grills to vented ones when I fitted the IPD vent kit. And my car is a auto.

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?43277-2004-2007-R-Ram-air

What year is yours? Mine had vented grills, im certain my dads doesn't and his is MY05 the same as mine.

[Harvey]

What year is yours? Mine had vented grills, im certain my dads doesn't and his is MY05 the same as mine.

2005 year ,like I said I think volvo fitted what they have in stock at the time. Was potluck what was fitted.

[LeeT5]

Always loved your car Lee. How did you get on with the sound deadening you bought off me?

great thanks mate. I think I notice a difference, hard to tell really but obviously it does.Gotta do the doors now.

[stribo]

Looks stunning as always Lee, but I did prefer it lowered.

[LeeT5]

Looks stunning as always Lee, but I did prefer it lowered.

Yeah, i preferred it lowered too for looks, but to be honest, the ride is wayyy better now and the lack of ground clearance was a major issue. When you can't get into a carpark for a wedding its a little embarrassing and a real PITA, especially when there's no parking outside the venue! The missus wasn't best pleased. I'm getting used to it being 30mm higher. To be honest, it's not that bad especially compared to a standard V70 which sits another 20mm higher!!

[stribo]

Yeah, i preferred it lowered too for looks, but to be honest, the ride is wayyy better now and the lack of ground clearance was a major issue. When you can't get into a carpark for a wedding its a little embarrassing and a real PITA, especially when there's no parking outside the venue! The missus wasn't best pleased. I'm getting used to it being 30mm higher. To be honest, it's not that bad especially compared to a standard V70 which sits another 20mm higher!!
Was the ride that much worse on the Eibachs? I've got a set to go on the S60R, but the wife keeps saying she's not sure as she doesn't want to ruin the ride.

[V70 Graham]

Was the ride that much worse on the Eibachs? I've got a set to go on the S60R, but the wife keeps saying she's not sure as she doesn't want to ruin the ride.

a) it's her car

b) if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Harvey]

a) it's her car

b) if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

And it's a lot of work to lower it correctly ,not just a set of springs.

[stribo]

a) it's her car

b) if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

a) it's our car

b) in that case why have you had yours remapped, fitted a RIP kit, induction kit etc? :P

[stribo]

And it's a lot of work to lower it correctly ,not just a set of springs.

Not that much more needed, camber bushes, and a SUM recalibration mainly.

[V70 Graham]

a) it's our car

b) in that case why have you had yours remapped, fitted a RIP kit, induction kit etc? :P

To improve it, if lowering it ruins the ride and drivability I don't see the point.

[stribo]

To improve it, if lowering it ruins the ride and drivability I don't see the point.

That's because you're an old woman that never throws their car into a corner. My C70's ride is shocking compared to how it was before I fitted the coil-overs, but it handles so much better, and doesn't wallow around like a hippo in mud now. :P

[V70 Graham]

That's because you're an old woman that never throws their car into a corner. My C70's ride is shocking compared to how it was before I fitted the coil-overs, but it handles so much better, and doesn't wallow around like a hippo in mud now. :P

I know that, but with the 'R' if Rachel's happy with it like it is, why risk it ?

[stribo]

I know that, but with the 'R' if Rachel's happy with it like it is, why risk it ?

That's why they're still in the box in the garage (oh, have you got a garage :P ) I'd like to fit them for the sake of looks, but if it's going to make the ride alot worse then I won't bother until we get a car to replace the R, and I have the R. :D

[LeeT5]

Was the ride that much worse on the Eibachs? I've got a set to go on the S60R, but the wife keeps saying she's not sure as she doesn't want to ruin the ride.

The Eibachs made the ride very jittery. Got rid of the Side hop 100% but the ride quality was Nil.

Also, you will need the IPD camber bushs once lowered. That will cost you £180 shipped into UK.

However!!! Since i fitted my IPD Blue Strut brace brackets i have noticed the side hop issue has almost gone. I would say about an 80% improvement!!

Since the OE's have been back on, the ride quality is soooo much better. Replacing the rear bushes made a huge difference. But it cost me £460.

[Wobbly Dave]

Side hop - how hard are you driving it? LOL

[LeeT5]

Side hop - how hard are you driving it? LOL

ha ha, you know the score Dave. I was very surprised at the massive improvement the strut brace brackets made. I urge anyone with an R to invest in these. They are well worth it, even for the under bonnet bling!!

[M-R-P]

Cracking work there Lee. Car looks superb (not sure about the window stickers - may be better on the inside, although the tints would hide it somewhat)

Bit of a request tho... next time you get the urge to take pictures of reflective surfaces, put your shirt back on. I was eating a sandwich lol.

[stribo]

Side hop - how hard are you driving it? LOL

I find you don't have to be going that fast for it to happen, just hitting the wrong sort of bump mid bend causes the back to skip a bit. Only had it happen once on the front end on a sweeping bend on the A34, it was a bit scary at the speed I was doing.;)

[M-R-P]

Mine used to hop a bit when I had the plod nivs on the back. Much better now but will still get the back out if provoked enough ;)

[stribo]

Mine used to hop a bit when I had the plod nivs on the back. Much better now but will still get the back out if provoked enough ;)
Can you get lift off oversteer in the §§§§let? :hilarious

[M-R-P]

Can you get lift off oversteer in the §§§§let? :hilarious

It'll fall over long before it does any king of sliding lol.

[LeeT5]

I must say my car just stays on comfort all the time,driving a van 6 days a week it makes the car even more comfortable to be in.

I drive in comfort on B roads and rubbish A roads and Sport on Dual carriageways and Motorways. I rarely use Advanced, unless i wanna waste someone from the lights!

[Harvey]

I drive in comfort on B roads and rubbish A roads and Sport on Dual carriageways and Motorways. I rarely use Advanced, unless i wanna waste someone from the lights!

Must say now I have my 18" rims fitted the ride is not as smooth as having the 17" rims on.
The handling is better with the 18"on thought.

[silverhorse]

Must say now I have my 18" rims fitted the ride is not as smooth as having the 17" rims on.
The handling is better with the 18"on thought.

Agreed. I put 16s on the wifes old MX5 in place of the old 15s and some Bridgestone Potenzas on. It was undriveable on our crappy country lanes. I had to put much higher profile tyres on and drop the pressures to make it acceptable.
Thats why I am wary of changing the 17s on her new C70 for the 18s

[graemewelch]

.....Then i thought I'd out the old high beam halogens for some extra bright ones. Don't get me wrong, there never going to be HID brightness, but a subtle improvement has been noticed

Random%20photos/IMG_1300_zps4c030905.jpg.html]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1300_zps4c030905.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1309_zps6fe92c06.jpg[/IMG] (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1309_zps6fe92c06.jpg.html)

After:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1310_zps01904d18.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1310_zps01904d18.jpg.html)

Then i outed the front fog light grille's and fitted the later 05> versions:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1344_zps5c83c219.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1344_zps5c83c219.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1341_zpsa7efaff2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1341_zpsa7efaff2.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1342_zpsd48fe837.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1342_zpsd48fe837.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1339_zps27502440.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1339_zps27502440.jpg.html)

drove down to my local stealer and purchased........

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1395_zpsffa8fab7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_1395_zpsffa8fab7.jpg.html)

Then I removed my tired, worn fronts seats that had done 130k and replaced them with two newish front seats that have done only 40k. Used the Volvo leather treatment and it works a treat. The results are gorgeous! Some portions of the seats still have that grainy new leather look.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1421_zpsa11d1927.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1421_zpsa11d1927.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1420_zps71297044.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1420_zps71297044.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1419_zps2765dd0f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1419_zps2765dd0f.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1418_zpse29bdd66.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1418_zpse29bdd66.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1417_zps4fcafd65.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1417_zps4fcafd65.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1416_zps5aa54fa6.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_1416_zps5aa54fa6.jpg.html)

would your old r front seats be forsale

[LeeT5]

Sold.

[LeeT5]

What I meant was, they have already gone.

[LeeT5]

Thought I'd update....

Regards the Side Hop issue. On the last wheel alignment check we found the rear toe had moved due to settlement of the new rear bushes. This was the reason for the excessive side hop.
I had the alignment adjusted, but this time to Volvo latest spec for P2R models....( -0.08 rear toe).
Result!! All side hop completely eliminated.

[stribo]

Thought I'd update....

Regards the Side Hop issue. On the last wheel alignment check we found the rear toe had moved due to settlement of the new rear bushes. This was the reason for the excessive side hop.
I had the alignment adjusted, but this time to Volvo latest spec for P2R models....( -0.08 rear toe).
Result!! All side hop completely eliminated.

I'll have get ours checked and see if it's adjusted to the latest spec.

[volvokid]

How old are these specs lee? I never really get side hop but It will be due a wheel alignment soon.

[merc85]

Great looking R Buddy :)

[LeeT5]

How old are these specs lee? I never really get side hop but It will be due a wheel alignment soon.

Absolutely no idea, but as I said, they are the latest spec for the rear on R models. If your not getting side hop it's probably because your alignment is within spec.
Your old man should get he's checked while he's at MRG!

[Jimmie]

Lee all alignments done amongst other things .lol
No faffing about with the guys at MRG
First rate service and highly recommend them for any work to be done on a motor.

[LeeT5]

Lee all alignments done amongst other things .lol
No faffing about with the guys at MRG
First rate service and highly recommend them for any work to be done on a motor.

Good man Jimmie! What work did you have done then?

[volvokid]

Good man Jimmie! What work did you have done then?

He hasn't even told me everything lee, must have had a big bill..... :)

[LeeT5]

He hasn't even told me everything lee, must have had a big bill..... :)

Best he pipes up then and tells us what the damage is and what works been done. Call me a nosey f***er if you like but I'd be interested to know.

[Jimmie]

He hasn't even told me everything lee, must have had a big bill..... :)

I ain't telling you or your mother but they had to redo some of Strathmore of Perths work!!!!!
Speak about paying for a jobs three times,not good
PLEASE DO NOT ASK ABOUT COST.

[Harvey]

I ain't telling you or your mother but they had to redo some of Strathmore of Perths work!!!!!
Speak about paying for a jobs three times,not good
PLEASE DO NOT ASK ABOUT COST.

But the main question is was the car fixed properly first time & are you happy with the work carried out.

[M-R-P]

What's this? More stories of strathmore screwing things up? Who'd have thought it...

[Jimmie]

But the main question is was the car fixed properly first time & are you happy with the work carried out.

No and yes to your question.

[LeeT5]

PCV replacement went well. No major hick ups other than the fact the PCV tubing was completely and utterly rock solid with carbon deposits. It was so hard that when I tried to remove it from the inlet manifold the pipe snapped clean in half!
I was going to do a full PCV replacement thread but to be perfectly honest, I couldn't be arsed and it's very involved and not the sort of job that should be taken lightly or rushed.
Anyway, here's a summary and pictures of how it all went...

If the first picture scares you then it's best you don't undertake...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement11_zps666d5c8e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement11_zps666d5c8e.jpg.html)
All the engine components removed from the car, in order, and placed on the floor. All the parts were then thoroughly cleaned and inspected for damage. Where possible I used OE C-clips to make the install clean and in other areas I used uprated Jubilee clips...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement15_zps8dfe2146.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement15_zps8dfe2146.jpg.html)
Old V New..

Engine bay looking very sorry for itself...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement7_zpsff928cb7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement7_zpsff928cb7.jpg.html)

Once the PCV system and pipework was removed this is what I was faced with...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement10_zps05cf4893.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement10_zps05cf4893.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement9_zps1f039734.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement9_zps1f039734.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement8_zps4db7bdf7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement8_zps4db7bdf7.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement5_zps54a47071.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement5_zps54a47071.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement6_zps7be43e5b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement6_zps7be43e5b.jpg.html)

Coolant pipe cut to aid easier removal...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement4_zpsd2e9ddf0.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement4_zpsd2e9ddf0.jpg.html)

Preparation is paramount on this job and having replaced my PCV on my P1 R I included things like new injector seals (top and bottom)...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement17_zps6f331fed.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement17_zps6f331fed.jpg.html)

Wrapping electrical tape around the injector plug fittings to prevent the tiny square 'O' rings from falling out, removing the top engine mount to aid easier access (only four bolts), engine covers off so plugs out, cleaned and refitted (only done 5000m), power steering pump unbolted to gain proper access to lower bolt on Thermostat housing (which I replaced).
The top timing cover comes off too so I removed the Aux belt and removed the side timing cover and gave it a good clean. Inspected timing belt and water pump for any damage/leaks (none found)...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2191_zps703ac4ae.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2191_zps703ac4ae.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2190_zps346b8466.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2190_zps346b8466.jpg.html)

[Harvey]

I did say that plastic pipe would snap.
Glad it all went to plan,that won't required doing any time soon again.
This was mine.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/FC736598-B788-45F7-AAFA-C344145936CC-8318-00000E58F9788C29.jpg

[LeeT5]

I also fitted a new Inlet manifold gasket....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement13_zps707bab52.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement13_zps707bab52.jpg.html)
PCV breather box fitted and C-clips used where possible.
The breather box lower pipe is now modified. The one I removed was just a piece of rubber hose with two clamps, the new one is shiny solid stainless steel pipe that just 'press fits'.
One thing to note: When Volvo supply you with the PCV breather kit it comes with two hollow screws. They have the same part# and look identical. Both have a small split pin in the end and a tiny 'rattle' type affair inside. When trying to work out what the rattle was for I quickly realized it must be a one way valve. Sure enough, it is.
This next part is very important....
when you remove this hollow screw from the right side of the cylinder head...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement14_zpsd497f3cc.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement14_zpsd497f3cc.jpg.html)

....you must make sure you clean and refit it. This hollow screw does not have a one way valve because its to allow the coolant flow. DO NOT under any circumstances fit the Volvo supplied hollow screw, otherwise your car will over heat!
The hollow screw with the rattle is only meant for the Inlet manifold tubing. Its to prevent the breather system breathing the wrong way when idling.
I tried to get an answer from Volvo UK on the matter but they basically fobbed me off saying I would need to consult with one of the technicians at a cost of £3 a minute!!
After I spoke with my dealer and MRG they were both clueless.

Here is the hollow screw that you fit to the Inlet manifold only!...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement3_zps9ff681f9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement3_zps9ff681f9.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement2_zps3e9ca14a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement2_zps3e9ca14a.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement1_zps11a38361.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement1_zps11a38361.jpg.html)

new breather box and inlet manifold in place...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement13_zps707bab52.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement13_zps707bab52.jpg.html)

I also fitted a new Thermostat assembly which comes complete with Thermostat, Temperature sensor and housing. New Thermostat assembly gasket, new ETM gasket.
I cleaned the ETM, stripped down the fuel rail, removed and fitted new injector seals and lubricated with Vaseline ready for fitting.

[Wobbly Dave]

FYI the hollow screw as you call it is a banjo bolt. Please use fresh copper washers when putting it back in.

[LeeT5]

FYI the hollow screw as you call it is a banjo bolt. Please use fresh copper washers when putting it back in.

I did use new copper washers. Good advise thou. :)

[silverhorse]

Lee, when removing ETM to clean, is a new gasket a must?

[LeeT5]

Lee, when removing ETM to clean, is a new gasket a must?

Not really. Thou my ETM has been removed and cleaned three times since owning and it was getting a little ragged round the edges. Plus, the gasket has a crush element built into it, same as the Thermostat assembly gasket. When you tighten the unit it crushes the gasket and forms a uniform seal. Technically, they are use once, but on the ETM not so critical. Definitely use once on the Thermostat assembly otherwise you risk a coolant leak. I just replaced mine because I've no intention of removing it any time soon.

[LeeT5]

Thought I'd update as it's been a while (a few of you know why!).

I hit a massive brick wall whilst in the process of replacing my PCV system....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall16_zps796a1cc5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall16_zps796a1cc5.jpg.html)

Cracked Intercooler!!! :grumpy:

So, without further ado...made some calls....4 weeks later....this arrived....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC8_zps2e0a1387.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC8_zps2e0a1387.jpg.html)

I still had half my engine parts laying on the floor...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement11_zps666d5c8e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/PCVreplacement11_zps666d5c8e.jpg.html)

Off to work now. Update later.

[LeeT5]

So....I now had a very big expensive cardboard box in my lounge. First, I had to strip out my old IC.

Front nose cone off....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall20_zpsaf7f3f40.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall20_zpsaf7f3f40.jpg.html)

Auxillery IC off...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall1_zps7a6195a8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall1_zps7a6195a8.jpg.html)

Next, get my drill and drill out the spot welds for the front cross member. Drill 3mm pilot hole then 8mm drill bit. This is aluminium so care must be taken....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall3_zpse1059b58.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall3_zpse1059b58.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall5_zps55f84ba4.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall5_zps55f84ba4.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall8_zps880f6d70.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall8_zps880f6d70.jpg.html)

Cross member, power steering cooler, IC and slam panel removed...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall9_zps0efd463a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall9_zps0efd463a.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall14_zps3ebb8ad5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall14_zps3ebb8ad5.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall13_zps75fad6d5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall13_zps75fad6d5.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall12_zps0b338e05.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall12_zps0b338e05.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall11_zps2f370ba8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall11_zps2f370ba8.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

Now the best bit!!!

Developed by Mr Tim Williams, quality Core from Holland and the IC fabricated by A+H Fabrication Motorsports in Liecestershire....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC11_zps7d1b8e7b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC11_zps7d1b8e7b.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC9_zpsfc68c951.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC9_zpsfc68c951.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC10_zps4ad0a786.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC10_zps4ad0a786.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC12_zps09233224.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC12_zps09233224.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC13_zps5f528556.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC13_zps5f528556.jpg.html)

New next to old....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC1_zpse30880b9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC1_zpse30880b9.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC2_zps7cb6b912.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC2_zps7cb6b912.jpg.html)

Now for the fitting.....
I'm not going to explain in detail how this is done, it would take too long. There is so much fettling and jigging about when installing, TBH its self explanitary and you won't need me to tell you how to fit if your already at this stage because you'll be competant enough to work it out yourself.
One thing I will say is DO NOT RUSH!!!!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC3_zpsc487e894.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC3_zpsc487e894.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC4_zps72230a0b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC4_zps72230a0b.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC6_zps09d04cec.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC6_zps09d04cec.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC7_zps9f445383.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC7_zps9f445383.jpg.html)

Mounting points....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC15_zps23869da1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC15_zps23869da1.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC16_zpsf86a0250.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC16_zpsf86a0250.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC18_zps9194220a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC18_zps9194220a.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC19_zpsa4ce026f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC19_zpsa4ce026f.jpg.html)

[stribo]

So, is it all back together, have you improved my car, or just added some bling? TBH it looks more of a ball ache looking at the pictures, than it would be with all the parts and just getting on with it.;)

[LeeT5]

I bought a new BPS as they've been superseeded....
It needs to be modified slightly as the screw is not long enough. For this I used a dremel and just ground down the excess plastic...

Superseeded new BPS on the right...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2373_zpsb7b168a2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2373_zpsb7b168a2.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2375_zpse61efeaf.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2375_zpse61efeaf.jpg.html)

Modified...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2376_zps03f2ab55.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2376_zps03f2ab55.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2377_zps6dd1301e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2377_zps6dd1301e.jpg.html)

Looking at the base of the Air dryer from underneath and the lower left IC mounting point...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC20_zps525010e3.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC20_zps525010e3.jpg.html)

Had to buy a new dremel to do the following mods so that the fill port for the air con could be accessed...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2322_zps93858a2d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2322_zps93858a2d.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2323_zpsd2c563b9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2323_zpsd2c563b9.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC21_zpsf580a941.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC21_zpsf580a941.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC22_zps6096fddc.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC22_zps6096fddc.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC23_zpsd433c521.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC23_zpsd433c521.jpg.html)

Fresh air snorkel modified....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC28_zps294645e2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC28_zps294645e2.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC27_zps8f17ae9f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC27_zps8f17ae9f.jpg.html)

Power steering bolts ground off as they fouled on the IC when refitted...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC29_zps62d1d6fd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC29_zps62d1d6fd.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC30_zpsa251dbd2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC30_zpsa251dbd2.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

So, is it all back together, have you improved my car, or just added some bling? TBH it looks more of a ball ache looking at the pictures, than it would be with all the parts and just getting on with it.;)

Not sure what you mean?

yes car is back together. Of course it's improved!!

[LeeT5]

Before the IC is mounted you will need to carefully bend the Reciever dryer towards you about 1". Otherwise, the back of the IC will foul on the Reciever dryer.

I then removed the black plastic piece shown on the rear of the cross member. It is no longer needed and fouls the IC anyway!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC8_zps1c7c48f0.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC8_zps1c7c48f0.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC24_zpsb8db6c36.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC24_zpsb8db6c36.jpg.html)

Using the supplied (when you ask nicely) fitting kit, sent in the post seperately....
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall15_zps6159a253.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall15_zps6159a253.jpg.html)

...You'll then need to refit the cross member..
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC25_zpsf884850b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC25_zpsf884850b.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC31_zps66ab2f0c.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC31_zps66ab2f0c.jpg.html)

Then refit the power steering cooler and plastic bit that holds the bonnet locks...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/TWFMIC31_zps66ab2f0c.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/TWFMIC31_zps66ab2f0c.jpg.html)

Replaced the nose cone side panels as mine were brittle and caked in crap with rusty screws on the adjuster...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall18_zps6a6d450e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall18_zps6a6d450e.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/FMICinstall19_zps9cce42ad.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/FMICinstall19_zps9cce42ad.jpg.html)

Refit slam panel. Refit nose cone (remembering to plug in the fog lights before bolting up)...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2342_zpsec8a8cba.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2342_zpsec8a8cba.jpg.html)

Here she is finished...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2349_zpsa47bea60.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2349_zpsa47bea60.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/FMIC/IMG_2366_zpsfdbaf06c.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/FMIC/IMG_2366_zpsfdbaf06c.jpg.html)

Please don't think that the IC is pissed, cos it's not! The mouth portion of the front bumper is slightly out of shape from where the previous owner kept parking too close to kerbs and managed to bend it. Luckily, it's not cracked and I will eventually mould it back into shape by way of fixing rivets on the bottom of the bumper and by packing out the mouth piece with huge bubble wrap whilst heating the plastic with a heat gun. I've managed to mould it quite a bit and it's almost there.

[LeeT5]

Cleaned my Blue engine/timing belt covers (they were pretty filthy)..

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2191_zps703ac4ae.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2191_zps703ac4ae.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2190_zps346b8466.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2190_zps346b8466.jpg.html)

(Were now up to Beginning of July)

Day two of driving revealed some issues. Boost issues...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2369_zps89105b44.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2369_zps89105b44.jpg.html)

Namely constant fault codes relating to boost and air leaks. Car went off to main dealer for a smoke leak test and they found two leaks. MAF to Turbo pipe and TCV redline at the Turbo. Both replaced, car now drives fine but won't boost over 5-7 psi. WEIRD!!! Volvo now fixed ECM130A MAF/Air leak code but as my MAF has never been changed (by me) in 4 years I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace it. So I found a brand new, sealed in a Bosch box, MAF unit on eBay for a whopping £89 delivered!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2395_zps3989e200.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2395_zps3989e200.jpg.html)

Faults remaining are ECM6805.

Car no longer goes into limp mode but it just will not boost over 5-7psi. I sometimes see a 10psi spike but otherwise 5-7psi.

Many hours speaking to some very knowledgeable ppl, trawling the internet and reading up on ME7.1 Turbo systems to make sure I'm fully conversent in they're operation.

I finally decided that If I couldn't find the fault then it would go to MRG but before then, I replaced these....as I discovered that they were not working as they should....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2402_zpsd167cb26.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2402_zpsd167cb26.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2401_zps55176b63.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2401_zps55176b63.jpg.html)

Just to be clear, these are Purge valves or Vacuum valves and there are two in the purge lines. One under the manifold and one to the right of the head.
After removing and cheacking each one by simply blowing though them I found them both to be leaking air in the direction that they should seal. This will give you an internal air leak and also a MAF code.
I bought them from Mercedes-Benz for £3.95 each rather than pay £80 plus vat for Volvo complete purge hose with two valves already fitted...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2399_zps3123aaa4.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2399_zps3123aaa4.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

Vacuum valves fitted...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2405_zpsbb6fbc7d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2405_zpsbb6fbc7d.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2404_zpsebef9b1a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2404_zpsebef9b1a.jpg.html)

These made a good improvement and Boost finally increased to 10psi.
Car would idle better and generally drive much better.....but only 10psi boost??
My Forge CBV has the 10psi rated spring and if I disconnect the TCV i see 10psi all day!

more research, trawling, speaking to ppl in the know....

Purchased one of these...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2413_zps9e78cb8e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2413_zps9e78cb8e.jpg.html)

Used it to test the Boost line from the Manifold to the gauge.....no pressure! :smirk:

Bought a cheap £7 gauge of eBay to compare and test against IPD gauge that is fitted in my car. LOL, that was crap. It worked but it was miles out!! 4psi out using the Mityvac!
So I threw it in the bin and removed my IPD gauge and tested...
Vacuum
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2422_zpsd32752d8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2422_zpsd32752d8.jpg.html)

Pressure
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2421_zps4f9b8afb.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2421_zps4f9b8afb.jpg.html)

it was 0.6psi out on Boost and only 0.1psi out on vac. I'm happy with that as it's minimal. So the gauge is working but the line to the gauge obviously leaks...
Door stripped...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2419_zps1a504c91.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2419_zps1a504c91.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2416_zpsfaf51546.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2416_zpsfaf51546.jpg.html)

I haven't got a photo but I found a 1" split in the IPD 3mm OD PTFE pipe just as it ran into the inner wing. I could just hear it leaking using the Mityvac, so I then replaced the entire PTFE pipe with a more flexible black Nylon 3mm OD pipe. Problem solved!!!

The car now boosts as it should. 16psi up to 3,000rpm then go beyond that and the needle flies round to 20psi!! :B_thumb:

Remember that boost on ME7.1 is torque dependent and controlled by the ECU via the TCV and BPS.

[LeeT5]

(Now were up to end of July)

I had to return the car to stock, including removing the BSR map and installing the stock map, in order to diagnose and rectify the boost leaks - so the car was looking like this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2382_zpsc1d9411a.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2382_zpsc1d9411a.jpg.html)

After a week of driving I'm now seeing this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2456_zpsb6ae95db.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2456_zpsb6ae95db.jpg.html)

My AMS system was removed from the car so I decided to repair it and give it a spruce up. Using some industrial strength glue (not available to the general public) I had a family member help me rectify the cracks using a special liquid solution for the cracks and seperate glue for strengthening and preventing further cracks...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2457_zps54e392bd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2457_zps54e392bd.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2455_zps4ecc6822.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2455_zps4ecc6822.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2454_zps2ce34e86.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2454_zps2ce34e86.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2453_zps1b6ffb74.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2453_zps1b6ffb74.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2452_zpsaaeb28e5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2452_zpsaaeb28e5.jpg.html)

Removed Elevate decal, rubbed down, primed and repainted...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2461_zpsc51762c8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2461_zpsc51762c8.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2460_zps0240a0d6.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2460_zps0240a0d6.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2459_zpsb0350cd0.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2459_zpsb0350cd0.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2462_zps2fa6e016.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2462_zps2fa6e016.jpg.html)

Top coat...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2468_zps43ddac7c.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2468_zps43ddac7c.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2474_zpsba93bbea.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2474_zpsba93bbea.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2473_zps7ce17840.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2473_zps7ce17840.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

BSR map now back on the car. AMS system refitted (sorry, but I just missed the induction noise so much!!) It's infectious!!

In the mean time I've fitted new Subframe bolts and vibration washers (mine were thrown away by mistake when fitting the bush inserts and the thread on the bolts were looking a bit ropey in places)...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2356_zpse75c2cbe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2356_zpse75c2cbe.jpg.html)

Couldn't stand the old, dirty bottle after I replaced the coolant during the IC install, so I fitted a newer (modified/superseeded) one, from Volvo + a new (Superseeded) level sensor...

Before

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2311_zps4c255892.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2311_zps4c255892.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2312_zps00a7e116.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2312_zps00a7e116.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2313_zps38f673b8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2313_zps38f673b8.jpg.html)

After

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2314_zps0c62f124.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2314_zps0c62f124.jpg.html)

The newer bottle raises the P/S reservoir up slightly, away from the ECU cover.

[LeeT5]

Large BSR badge (left side) delete...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2446_zps07bcd708.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2446_zps07bcd708.jpg.html)

Refit smaller BSR badge (right side)...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2447_zpsb13e8f36.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2447_zpsb13e8f36.jpg.html)

Car as she is at the moment...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2355_zpsa2eb492e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2355_zpsa2eb492e.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2354_zps83436c4b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2354_zps83436c4b.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2353_zpsa64322de.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2353_zpsa64322de.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2351_zpsb3358731.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_2351_zpsb3358731.jpg.html)

Night Night!!

[jamesy12345]

Nice updates

One of the benefits of the TW larger intercooler will be increased efficiency of the air con

[stephenevans99]

Efficiency of the air con will be reduced as the condenser is now shielded by the FMIC.....not by much and most likely unnoticeable.

[M-R-P]

Jeez... reading that was hard work... good job there were pictures!

Nice work dude.

[jamesy12345]

Efficiency of the air con will be reduced as the condenser is now shielded by the FMIC.....not by much and most likely unnoticeable.

the rumour is that the air con blows colder with this mod....haven't tried it myself...yet

[stephenevans99]

The air con needs to work fractionally harder not only due to the condensor now being shielded by the intercooler which reduces the airflow, but also because the consensor will suffer heat soak being placed next to the radiator.

In everyday driving conditions, you'd struggle to notice any difference - you may notice a slight dip in ac performance when stationary or in slow moving traffic when airflow is at it's minimum.

Only a very small compromise though when compared to the benefits of the fmic.

[jamesy12345]

The air con needs to work fractionally harder not only due to the condensor now being shielded by the intercooler which reduces the airflow, but also because the consensor will suffer heat soak being placed next to the radiator.

In everyday driving conditions, you'd struggle to notice any difference - you may notice a slight dip in ac performance when stationary or in slow moving traffic when airflow is at it's minimum.

Only a very small compromise though when compared to the benefits of the fmic.

I am just referring to a discussion I had with Tim - he mentioned a possible 2 degree drop in AC temp at the vents with this. Of course depends on conditions. Such is his rep I am quite happy to give it a go assuming I can get this S60 extracted from Qatar

Where is AC is fitted, all of our (Volvo) intercooler/radiators/condensers are squashed up together with the possible exception of Claymore. For my S70 I have some 12 mm (?) spacers to move the intercooler away from the radpack a little

Agree there are better positions for intercoolers though :) my 5 turbo has an twin fan alloy radiator at the front and the Renault Sport intercooler at the back - good for an 8 degree drop in water temps.....can't find the AC.....

[LeeT5]

FWIW, my climate temp setting was always set to 22*C as that was the most comfortable.
Now it's set to 24*C!
The condensor does not suffer from heat soak as much as you think because with the FMIC installed you have to remove all the plastic side and top bits that trap all the air, especially the large piece that was attached to the cross member.
Heat is no not trapped and I suppose air flow is improved with the larger holes on the FMIC.
Either way, I've had to turn up the Climate temp to keep the car comfortable inside. At 22*C it's a little too cold and uncomfortable!
Other ppl that have had the TW FMIC fitted have also noiticed the same.
Also remember that even thou the condensor is now sandwiched between the Rad and IC, it's now sitting closer to the Rad fan. I suppose this means more air is able to contact the condensor from the fan when stationary.
I also gave the condensor a good clean with a brush and water and also some degreaser. It was about 40% clogged up with dust and dirt before hand.

[stephenevans99]

The ac condensor is always fitted at the very front of the rad pack, the S60R does have the smaller supplementary intercooler that sits in front of the condensor.

22 degreesC isn't cold btw ;)

Vent temperature should be 5-6 degree celcius...unless you're in mine

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/stephenevans99/media/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg.html)

I suggest testing the vent temp with a digital probe just to compare.

[volvokid]

FWIW, my climate temp setting was always set to 22*C as that was the most comfortable.
Now it's set to 24*C!
The condensor does not suffer from heat soak as much as you think because with the FMIC installed you have to remove all the plastic side and top bits that trap all the air, especially the large piece that was attached to the cross member.
Heat is no not trapped and I suppose air flow is improved with the larger holes on the FMIC.
Either way, I've had to turn up the Climate temp to keep the car comfortable inside. At 22*C it's a little too cold and uncomfortable!
Other ppl that have had the TW FMIC fitted have also noiticed the same.

I thought the point of climate control was to keep the temp at a set level. Would the system when set to 22 pre and post mods not still be 22? It would just have to work harder to stay at 22 no?

[LeeT5]

The ac condensor is always fitted at the very front of the rad pack, the S60R does have the smaller supplementary intercooler that sits in front of the condensor.

22 degreesC isn't cold btw ;)

Vent temperature should be 5-6 degree celcius...unless you're in mine

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/stephenevans99/media/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg.html)

I will let you know what my vent temp is today.
The point I was making is that the air blowing out is now slightly colder! That's why it's now set to 24*C to allow for the decrease in temp out the vents.

[stephenevans99]

I thought the point of climate control was to keep the temp at a set level. Would the system when set to 22 pre and post mods not still be 22? It would just have to work harder to stay at 22 no?

Yes....It's the efficiency that's affected....the ac has to work harder to maintain a low temperature.

[volvokid]

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/stephenevans99/media/Volvo%20S60%20D5%202004/DSCN0888.jpg.html)


You have my first ever parrot. Good bit of kit that

[stribo]

I will let you know what my vent temp is today.
The point I was making is that the air blowing out is now slightly colder! That's why it's now set to 24*C to allow for the decrease in temp out the vents.

Surely even if the AC is working more efficiently you shouldn't have to change the temperature on the climate control, as it's regulated by the in car temperature sensor.

[jamesy12345]

Surely even if the AC is working more efficiently you shouldn't have to change the temperature on the climate control, as it's regulated by the in car temperature sensor.

it's not a swiss watch - it's a closed loop control system with some lag in feedback. The ac will work by monitoring cabin temp then blasting out (much) colder air from the vents until the temperature sensors see the requested value

Assuming the AC is working 'better' then this air will be colder for a short time even without moving the dial from 22 or whatever

[LeeT5]

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2494_zpsfcab6163.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_2494_zpsfcab6163.jpg.html)

Cold enough for you! that's 1*C for those that can't understand the reading from a multimeter.
That's with one vent open, fans full speed and engine at 2000rpm.

1*C was lowest reading. It fluctuates between 1 and 4*C as the compressor kicks in and out.

[stephenevans99]

Lol....been in the freezer?

[LeeT5]

Lol....been in the freezer?

Err, no! I got in my car, stuffed the sensor in the vent, started my car and idled for five minutes then checked temp. The meter is sat on my left leg in the car. The meter was pulled out a draw from my garage.
There's not a fridge or freezer for 50yds!

its very accurate too. Shoots up to 30*C as soon as you touch the end. Reading is instant and digital.

[stephenevans99]

Excellent results then... Well done. I must be wrong saying the ac is less efficient with the condenser next to the rad. Learn something new every day.

[Harvey]

Excellent results then... Well done. I must be wrong saying the ac is less efficient with the condenser next to the rad. Learn something new every day.

Could it be the new intercooler is per-cooling the air before it hits the condenser ?,how litres of air travel through the intercooler at tickover that's got to be worth something.
Anyhow I think I need something else on my shopping list for mine now..

[Jimmie]

Good write up Lee.
I think personally i'll keep the R as it is and have a holiday instead.lol

[Harvey]

Good write up Lee.
I think personally i'll keep the R as it is and have a holiday instead.lol

I think you mean holidays ! , I am in too minds what to do with mine now as have done almost all the jobs I want to do ,BUT there is always something else .(must resist at all costs).:)

[silverhorse]

Great write up Lee. You have given me a few pointers with some of my issues. Got car going to Volvo for a smoke test. Dreading the results for that......... Am going to check those little one way vac valves though. Might be a cheap fix!!

[p fandango]

Efficiency of the air con will be reduced as the condenser is now shielded by the FMIC.....not by much and most likely unnoticeable.
compare how tall the TW intercooler is compared to the factory one. I'm interested to see what insurance companies say about drilling the crossbar if you were to have a front-end crash

[Harvey]

compare how tall the TW intercooler is compared to the factory one. I'm interested to see what insurance companies say about drilling the crossbar if you were to have a front-end crash

I think the new intercooler would absorb some of the energy in a crash as it's larger than the stock one.

[Ric@rdo]

Just to be clear, these are Purge valves or Vacuum valves and there are two in the purge lines. One under the manifold and one to the right of the head.
After removing and cheacking each one by simply blowing though them I found them both to be leaking air in the direction that they should seal. This will give you an internal air leak and also a MAF code.
I bought them from Mercedes-Benz for £3.95 each rather than pay £80 plus vat for Volvo complete purge hose with two valves already fitted...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2399_zps3123aaa4.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/PCV/IMG_2399_zps3123aaa4.jpg.html)
Lee,
Do you remember the part number of these valves?
Thanks

[LeeT5]

Lee,
Do you remember the part number of these valves?
Thanks

Is that a trick question?? Can't you see the part number on the invoice that you just posted?

[Ric@rdo]

Why would I ask you a trick question? The resolution of the photo isn't the best to look at the character's. No worries.

[stribo]

Why would I ask you a trick question? The resolution of the photo isn't the best to look at the character's. No worries.

If you click on the photo, it'll take you to photobucket, where you can zoom in on the picture, but to save you the hassle the number on the invoice is MA000 431 61 07.

[LeeT5]

If you click on the photo, it'll take you to photobucket, where you can zoom in on the picture, but to save you the hassle the number on the invoice is MA000 431 61 07.

What he said ^^^^^^

Sorry Ricardo, didn't realise you couldn't see it. I posted the piccy so you could see it!

[Ric@rdo]

Sorry... Maybe it was my internet connection that was poor... When I clicked on the photobucket link, the picture was really bad
I was at the beach using a bad WiFi connection :)

[silverhorse]

Merc own brand engine oil!!!

[LeeT5]

Merc own brand engine oil!!!

eh?

[silverhorse]

Just above the part number.............. wonder if it actually designed for various Merc engines, or a rebranding of someone else's oil?

[LeeT5]

Just above the part number.............. wonder if it actually designed for various Merc engines, or a rebranding of someone else's oil?

Mercedes-Benz don't make oil. Therefore, they have paid to have someone else's branded as their own!

[volvokid]

Volvo do exactly the same, it's just castrol in a Volvo bottle

[silverhorse]

Just had a look at those 2 little Vac one way valves. The one under the manifold I can blow through from either end, so that's a knacker. The other one sealed itself with just the slightest of blows. That's how it should be I 'spose.
Anyway, will replace them both and see how I get on.
When I replaced all the Vac lines, I didn't bother to test the valves!:slap:
Cheers for the tip on those Lee.

[LeeT5]

Volvo do exactly the same, it's just castrol in a Volvo bottle

Volvo don't use Castrol anymore. Don't think they have their own branded oil. Haven't seen any at Dealer for ages now...they use Shell Helix.

[LeeT5]

Just had a look at those 2 little Vac one way valves. The one under the manifold I can blow through from either end, so that's a knacker. The other one sealed itself with just the slightest of blows. That's how it should be I 'spose.
Anyway, will replace them both and see how I get on.
When I replaced all the Vac lines, I didn't bother to test the valves!:slap:
Cheers for the tip on those Lee.

Often over looked. They will technically give you an internal air leak and not detected on a smoke leak test! They can radically affect performance. I lost 2 psi boost!

[volvokid]

Volvo don't use Castrol anymore. Don't think they have their own branded oil. Haven't seen any at Dealer for ages now...they use Shell Helix.

I still order all my oil from FRF and it comes in a Volvo branded bottle. I got for the D5 just last month.

[LeeT5]

Seeing as my car is no longer lowered, I removed my 12mm/15mm TPi spacers and fitted new Eibach ones. 5mm all round.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Brakes/IMG_2502_zpsd3a79633.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Brakes/IMG_2502_zpsd3a79633.jpg.html)

It's a subtle improvement over stock yet not as in your face as before. The 12mm/15mm looked great when lowered but just didn't look right on stock springs.
Plus, I'll get less mud/dirt flinging over the bodywork.

[LeeT5]

Here's a short induction video of the new Elevate cotton filter. Video was taken just before I refurbished my AMS:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/th_IMG_2350_zpsdb338576.mp4 (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Elevate%20AMS/IMG_2350_zpsdb338576.mp4)

Nice turbo spool!! :)

[LeeT5]

Last weeks jobs:

Fitted new Bosch (front) O2 sensor.
Removed the merc (temporary) one way valves and fitted genuine Volvo ones. Incidentally, they are the same size but black and white but the internals looks larger bore.
Fitted new oe fuel filter.

Noticed an improvement in throttle response and base idle when coming to a stop from driving. Much improved and I think, need longer to see, fuel economy is on the up!

Car will be booked in to the Dealer for a 140k service next month. I will be supplying the oil - gonna change from Castrol 5w30 magnetec to a different grade, maybe a 0w30....

[Harvey]

Last weeks jobs:

Fitted new Bosch (front) O2 sensor.
Removed the merc (temporary) one way valves and fitted genuine Volvo ones. Incidentally, they are the same size but black and white but the internals looks larger bore.
Fitted new oe fuel filter.

Noticed an improvement in throttle response and base idle when coming to a stop from driving. Much improved and I think, need longer to see, fuel economy is on the up!

Car will be booked in to the Dealer for a 140k service next month. I will be supplying the oil - gonna change from Castrol 5w30 magnetec to a different grade, maybe a 0w30....

Have a look what Mobil say ?. They give a bit of choice 2003 - 2007 cars listed. 0w30 & 5w30 then 0w40 all listed.

http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoils_which-oil.aspx

[stribo]

We always use 0w30 in our R. :B_thumb:

[merc85]

Just above the part number.............. wonder if it actually designed for various Merc engines, or a rebranding of someone else's oil?

The MB oil used to be Mobil, but now its Petronas ;)

[LeeT5]

Removed tax disc and magnetic holder today. Looks much cleaner now.

[V70 Graham]

Removed tax disc and magnetic holder today. Looks much cleaner now.

Going to remove mine in the week, the magnetic holder looks a pain to get off though.

[LeeT5]

Going to remove mine in the week, the magnetic holder looks a pain to get off though.

Just use a clean razor blade and push it under the magnetic strip. Mine came off easy with no mess.

[LeeT5]

Out with the old....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/602a97c1d6422c32fa59a048508495b9_zpsb4f15701.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/602a97c1d6422c32fa59a048508495b9_zpsb4f15701.jpg.h tml)

In with the new...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/28463fb7439f07603802d79c62f738ad_zpsf874aae7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/28463fb7439f07603802d79c62f738ad_zpsf874aae7.jpg.h tml)

[M-R-P]

Out with the old....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/602a97c1d6422c32fa59a048508495b9_zpsb4f15701.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/602a97c1d6422c32fa59a048508495b9_zpsb4f15701.jpg.h tml)

In with the new...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/28463fb7439f07603802d79c62f738ad_zpsf874aae7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/28463fb7439f07603802d79c62f738ad_zpsf874aae7.jpg.h tml)

How long since the last one Lee? I've changed mine twice in nearly 5 years and noticed a difference in performance both times.

[stribo]

The old one wasn't even old, after I bought the C70 I changed the fuel filter, and it was rusty as ****.

[M-R-P]

The old one wasn't even old, after I bought the C70 I changed the fuel filter, and it was rusty as ****.

First time I changed the filter on the Sweed, the filter was rusted to the bracket. Ikky brown stuff came out of it when I tipped it up too.

[LeeT5]

How long since the last one Lee? I've changed mine twice in nearly 5 years and noticed a difference in performance both times.

Er....according to service history, about 101k in 2008 by MRG.

[M-R-P]

Er....according to service history, about 101k in 2008 by MRG.

Eeewww.... Tut tut ;)

[LeeT5]

Although, I'm sure I fitted one two years ago, I just can't find the receipt.

[Harvey]

First time I changed the filter on the Sweed, the filter was rusted to the bracket. Ikky brown stuff came out of it when I tipped it up too.

This was on the S60R with a full service history :mischievo

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

This was on the S60R with a full service history :mischievo

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg.html)

Looking at the state of that, I'd say it's been mostly near the coast! Accelerated corrosion.

[LeeT5]

Car had MOT today...Passed with flying colours. :)

One thing I did notice was the rear diff was wet (slight leak). Strangely, it was bone dry last week when I had the alignment and winter wheels and tyres fitted.
Best I get that sorted....pronto.

[Jamest5r]

This was on the S60R with a full service history :mischievo

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg.html)

Looks like a.dodgy Donner on a.Saturday night :)

[jamesy12345]

This was on the S60R with a full service history :mischievo

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/C4364EFB-11E5-4C73-960A-BAECDFCB898E-6584-00000CD376C00780_zpsb4df6398.jpg.html)

I would take that into the last place that serviced it

[Harvey]

I would take that into the last place that serviced it

8 services all at Volvo main dealers !.the fuel filter is changed at 90k miles i think,I asked for it to be changed twice both times not a stock item as the R's is different,in the end I just changed it my self.

[jamesy12345]

8 services all at Volvo main dealers !.the fuel filter is changed at 90k miles i think,I asked for it to be changed twice both times not a stock item as the R's is different,in the end I just changed it my self.

They just get forgotten about I guess, critical item too

[Harvey]

Car had MOT today...Passed with flying colours. :)

One thing I did notice was the rear diff was wet (slight leak). Strangely, it was bone dry last week when I had the alignment and winter wheels and tyres fitted.
Best I get that sorted....pronto.

Any idea what oil it is haldex or diff oil ?,I just hope they pinched a "O" ring and not anything else.

[Ettienne]

Just did mine it was like that at 145k, but I did all mine at same time, interesting how the fuel comes out brown

[jamesy12345]

Just did mine it was like that at 145k, but I did all mine at same time, interesting how the fuel comes out brown

I would assume that is the upstream side i.e. all of the crap that the filter has been collecting over the years

[LeeT5]

Any idea what oil it is haldex or diff oil ?,I just hope they pinched a "O" ring and not anything else.

MRG changed the oils in August. I will have another look tomorrow but it was clear yellow in colour. Stuart at SW's said it was the rear diff. Couldn't quite see where t was leaking from but it will be sorted pronto I can assure you. If it proves to be a part failure from MRG then I will get my local dealer to sort it for free. The work and parts are still under warranty.
I didn't feel the oil myself so I couldn't say if it were mineral or not. If it is mineral then of course it will be the HALDEX leaking, otherwise it's rear diff.

[Ettienne]

I would assume that is the upstream side i.e. all of the crap that the filter has been collecting over the years

No down stream lol. Glad I changed it.

[LeeT5]

Once I get the leaking rear diff fixed (booked into dealer next Tuesday), still on my 'to do' list are:

1. Front fogs converted to 4300k HID --(need to order off eBay)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(in the new year)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(hopefully a christmas present?)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(in garage)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)

[stribo]

Good luck if you're planning to change the d/p yourself, it's an awkward job.

[LeeT5]

Good luck if you're planning to change the d/p yourself, it's an awkward job.

No. When I get to it, Fast Road Conversions will be doing it. Same place that did my Cat back, which incidently, was fully Tig welded.

[Harvey]

No. When I get to it, Fast Road Conversions will be doing it. Same place that did my Cat back, which incidently, was fully Tig welded.

I would have a look here ?.they have them on sale now.(£318 + shipping)
http://www.eurosporttuning.com/autoparts/accessories/performance/make/Volvo/model/V70/year/2004/submodel/R/engine/AWD/?exhaust=Downpipe

Just say I looked at the TME down pipe but has a 100cell cat which is not ideal at mot time.

Ps I know someone with a race cat :smirk:

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?57353-My-latest-eBay-purchase-WHY&p=734214&viewfull=1#post734214

[LeeT5]

I would have a look here ?.they have them on sale now.(£318 + shipping)
http://www.eurosporttuning.com/autoparts/accessories/performance/make/Volvo/model/V70/year/2004/submodel/R/engine/AWD/?exhaust=Downpipe

Just say I looked at the TME down pipe but has a 100cell cat which is not ideal at mot time.

Ps I know someone with a race cat :smirk:

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?57353-My-latest-eBay-purchase-WHY&p=734214&viewfull=1#post734214

£318 is a very good price for the full pipe and cat...nice!
Shipping quote was £210...which still makes it a very good buy considering Don at Kalmar wants £610 for a Ferrita 3" with a poxy 100 cell cat. I may have to have a chat with my 'Mule' :wink:
God knows what the import tax will be :scared:

Thanks for the offer on your 100 cell, but I don't want issues mate.

[Harvey]

£318 is a very good price for the full pipe and cat...nice!
Shipping quote was £210...which still makes it a very good buy considering Don at Kalmar wants £610 for a Ferrita 3" with a poxy 100 cell cat. I may have to have a chat with my 'Mule' :wink:
God knows what the import tax will be :scared:

Thanks for the offer on your 100 cell, but I don't want issues mate.

There online shipping is wrong send them a email it's around £100

[LeeT5]

Diff oil leak update:

Had a phone call from dealer today confirming that it was the N/S rear driveshaft output seal that was leaking.
I had instructed Lipscomb Volvo to contact the AA BRC claims dept' once they knew what the issue was, before phoning me. This was done and just before the dealer rang me, I had a text on my phone from the AA saying that my BRC claim was successful and that I would receive full payment inline with terms and conditions. :biggrin:

So, total cost of repair is £421 to supply and fit rear diff output seal to N/S driveshaft, this includes filling the rear diff with Redline synthetic 75W90 High performance gear oil that I supplied. LINK: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Line-75W90-Synthetic-Gear-Transmission-Diff-LSD-Oil-API-GL5-0-946-Litres-/360905585341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5407a632bd

Total cost to me........£35. :wink:

I pick the car up tomorrow evening at 5pm. What a ££££ing result!

[LeeT5]

Once I get the leaking rear diff fixed (booked into dealer next Tuesday) Complete, still on my 'to do' list are:

1. Front fogs converted to 4300k HID --(need to order off eBay)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(in the new year)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(hopefully a christmas present?)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(in garage) complete
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)

No point taking pictures of mudflaps!

Anyway, here's a few more additions:

Summer wheels and tyres finally stacked away neat and tidy after a clean and wax...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2728_zps8ac87112.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2728_zps8ac87112.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2727_zpsbb9ddbef.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2727_zpsbb9ddbef.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2729_zps2a792804.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2729_zps2a792804.jpg.html)

New gauge arrived from IPD and was sent as warranty replacement for my other gauge that was -2psi out...(fitted in November)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2558_zps5339d32d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2558_zps5339d32d.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2559_zps9ac80e15.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2559_zps9ac80e15.jpg.html)

New dvd player for my daughter with the Volvo headrest mount from Brodit...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2669_zpsa0999f59.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2669_zpsa0999f59.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2661_zps8da7100f.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2661_zps8da7100f.jpg.html)

Wheel alignment done after summers removed, winters balanced and fitted...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2640_zps487bcbec.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2640_zps487bcbec.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2610_zps728eaa65.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2610_zps728eaa65.jpg.html)

...and this little beauty turned up from a breakers in Norfolk! Absolute bargain.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_2916_zps656063f1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_2916_zps656063f1.jpg.html)

Light has been cleaned and looks like new. I already have the two uppers, so just need to find a r/o/s lower then I can fully convert. :)

[stribo]

Interesting to see your R has positive camber on the front too, ours has, but would prefer negative camber for a bit more grip.

[claymore]

Interesting to see your R has positive camber on the front too, ours has, but would prefer negative camber for a bit more grip.

Looks like negative camber to me ;)

[MoleT-5R]

Looks like negative camber to me ;)

and to me too, not by a lot on the front, a tad more on the nearside than the offside on front and rear for some reason

[stribo]

Yeah sorry thought because it was green it was positive, in my defence it was early. ;)

[LeeT5]

and to me too, not by a lot on the front, a tad more on the nearside than the offside on front and rear for some reason

Thanks for pointing that out. TBH I'd not really paid much attention as it was within spec.
When the summers go on in the spring I will have the alignment adjusted and the camber corrected.

[LeeT5]

and to me too, not by a lot on the front, a tad more on the nearside than the offside on front and rear for some reason

I spoke to the Alignment guy about the front Camber and he said (don't shoot me - just telling you what he said) It's, in his eyes, perfect because it allows for the slight left hand camber of UK roads. If the camber was set exactly the same on the front then the tendency would be for the car to slowly want to drift left due to the camber in the road (to aid water displacement and prevent water collecting in the middle of the road).
He said, if you were using the car on a race track then you would spec the camber exactly the same both sides because a race track is flat with no camber. Also, if you were driving your car for a long time in Europe or exporting to a country that drives on the opposite side of the road, then it would be ideal to set the camber to the opposite of what it is now. Then the car will naturally drive straight and not want to wander to the right. You get me bruv? :wink:
As you can see, both front camber are within spec anyway - but he said I wouldn't touch it because It's virtually perfect for UK driving.
He is right IMHO too because the car does drive absolutely perfectly straight all by itself with no wandering.

To do list

1. Front fogs converted to 4300k HID --(need to order off eBay)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(ordered)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(in the spring)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(in garage)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(144,000 oil service)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. Fit RTi screen filter (ordered)
14. Fit iMiv 'Bluetooth' extender (ordered)
15. Fix VIDA/DICE -- :B_thumb: (Finally sorted after 8 months)

[MoleT-5R]

I spoke to the Alignment guy about the front Camber and he said (don't shoot me - just telling you what he said) It's, in his eyes, perfect because it allows for the slight left hand camber of UK roads. If the camber was set exactly the same on the front then the tendency would be for the car to slowly want to drift left due to the camber in the road (to aid water displacement and prevent water collecting in the middle of the road).
He said, if you were using the car on a race track then you would spec the camber exactly the same both sides because a race track is flat with no camber. Also, if you were driving your car for a long time in Europe or exporting to a country that drives on the opposite side of the road, then it would be ideal to set the camber to the opposite of what it is now. Then the car will naturally drive straight and not want to wander to the right. You get me bruv? :wink:
As you can see, both front camber are within spec anyway - but he said I wouldn't touch it because It's virtually perfect for UK driving.
He is right IMHO too because the car does drive absolutely perfectly straight all by itself with no wandering.

To do list

1. Front fogs converted to 4300k HID --(need to order off eBay)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(ordered)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(in the spring)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(in garage)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(144,000 oil service)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. Fit RTi screen filter (ordered)
14. Fit iMiv 'Bluetooth' extender (ordered)
15. Fix VIDA/DICE -- :B_thumb: (Finally sorted after 8 months)


thanks, that was very interesting, certainly cleared that up and something new I most certainly didn't know

[Ettienne]

Post up a link to fogs as I have to change one of mine anyway broken glass.

[silverhorse]

Have you had a go at your shuddering steering yet Lee? What was the problem with your VIDA. Car or hardware/software?

[LeeT5]

Post up a link to fogs as I have to change one of mine anyway broken glass.

That won't be done until the warmer weather mate....more likely around May time. But yes, I will post pictures. :)


Have you had a go at your shuddering steering yet Lee? What was the problem with your VIDA. Car or hardware/software?

No mate, not yet. Heated seat set things back a month or two cos it cost me £300 to get fixed.
On the plus side, The issue with VIDA was a mixture of software but mostly Hardware. I had to buy a new laptop with XP Pro SP3 and install 4GB ram.
Then I had access to a second server allowing me to D/L 2013D (a known working version).
I then had to buy some 8GB Dual layer DVD's and then burn to disc.
Then install to new laptop. Then had an issue with SQL server software, which I fixed and then 'Hey Presto!!' all is good.
I also thought my DICE was knackered because I did update the firmware (others on Swedespeed and T5D5 have had massive issues with corrupt firmware destroying the DICE and preventing it from working).
However, mine works OK.

I'm going to drain and refill P/S fluid and replace the reservoir with the updated reservoir in the spring. Before that, Iv'e got a little 'clonking' noise thats gradually getting worse on the n/s, which I think is inner track control rod or possibly lower ball joint. Only notice on full lock and small speed bumps.

Once that's sorted (in a few weeks) then I'll crack the steering issue and refit my rear Subframe inserts (in a box waiting to be fitted).

[LeeT5]

This box of tricks arrived a couple of days ago...

Volvotech.eu - CFE (Canbus Function Extender)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3049_zpsd2b05931.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3049_zpsd2b05931.jpg.html)

Free pen...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3050_zpsd9919617.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3050_zpsd9919617.jpg.html)

Downloaded free software and changed lots of the settings...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3057_zps7dd1d7d5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3057_zps7dd1d7d5.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3064_zps549172fe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3064_zps549172fe.jpg.html)

Installation

Installation is very simple.

Fold rear passenger left seat down.
Remove left access panel.
Remove RTi cover by just gently pulling it away.
Undo 10mm bolt and pull left side panel away from side of car.
Undo 3x 12mm RTi mount from car. (Bottom two bolts just require slacking off)

Then your left with this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3054_zps847fd187.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3054_zps847fd187.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3051_zpsc76add9b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3051_zpsc76add9b.jpg.html)

Using the supplied OBD/green plug lead, carefully remove green plug from rear of RTi unit. Plug in lead and plug in RTi green plug to supplied cable (no picture as its obvious)

Tidy up cabling and refit side panels until your left with this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3068_zps6e1d1d2d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3068_zps6e1d1d2d.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3067_zps6270655e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3067_zps6270655e.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3069_zpse1f9e3fe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3069_zpse1f9e3fe.jpg.html)

The CFE comes pre loaded with setting that Volvotech think you may use. Most were turned off thou.

[Yosser]

Nice. I quite fancy one of those cfe things, looks interesting.

[stribo]

This box of tricks arrived a couple of days ago...

Volvotech.eu - CFE (Canbus Function Extender)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3049_zpsd2b05931.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3049_zpsd2b05931.jpg.html)

Free pen...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3050_zpsd9919617.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3050_zpsd9919617.jpg.html)

Downloaded free software and changed lots of the settings...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3057_zps7dd1d7d5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3057_zps7dd1d7d5.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3064_zps549172fe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3064_zps549172fe.jpg.html)

Installation

Installation is very simple.

Fold rear passenger left seat down.
Remove left access panel.
Remove RTi cover by just gently pulling it away.
Undo 10mm bolt and pull left side panel away from side of car.
Undo 3x 12mm RTi mount from car. (Bottom two bolts just require slacking off)

Then your left with this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3054_zps847fd187.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3054_zps847fd187.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3051_zpsc76add9b.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3051_zpsc76add9b.jpg.html)

Using the supplied OBD/green plug lead, carefully remove green plug from rear of RTi unit. Plug in lead and plug in RTi green plug to supplied cable (no picture as its obvious)

Tidy up cabling and refit side panels until your left with this...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3068_zps6e1d1d2d.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3068_zps6e1d1d2d.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3067_zps6270655e.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3067_zps6270655e.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3069_zpse1f9e3fe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3069_zpse1f9e3fe.jpg.html)

The CFE comes pre loaded with setting that Volvotech think you may use. Most were turned off thou.

Do you have to disconnect the battery before you start unplugging things?

[LeeT5]

Do you have to disconnect the battery before you start unplugging things?

No.

You just turn off car and remove key. Then open boot and pull out the CFE from it's OBD cable.
Plug into laptop.....alter any settings......then plug it back in.

Then you just lock/unlock the car and away you go!

[LeeT5]

If your car is an 05> then you can plug the CFE straight into the OBD port at the front of the car. You can't do that on <54 models.
However, I prefer the way mine is fitted as it leaves the OBD port clear to plug in VIDA etc.

[LeeT5]

Some cool functions....

Day time running lights:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3066_zpsca09c628.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3066_zpsca09c628.jpg.html)

Note: Side lights are off! Fogs come on with ignition. They also go off when Headlights are switched on or sidelights. The car also tells me when light conditions are such that the use of headlights would be better. This is done via the light sensor and signals by flashing the red alarm LED until headlights are switched on.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3062_zps9911cadc.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3062_zps9911cadc.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3060_zpsb6b119f2.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3060_zpsb6b119f2.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3061_zpscd13b0f0.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/CFE%20Canbus%20Function%20Extender/IMG_3061_zpscd13b0f0.jpg.html)

[Ettienne]

That's very smart lee, like it

[LeeT5]

(Thanks to Rich for the thread title change):wink:

[MIKESC70T5]

I've got something similar on the M, but all the info comes up on my head unit. If your like me, you will be changing things every week lol.

[p fandango]

i'm curious to what changes them from DRL's, to foglights illegally used without sidelights? except from a computer telling them to turn on at different times

[LeeT5]

i'm curious to what changes them from DRL's, to foglights illegally used without sidelights? except from a computer telling them to turn on at different times

If it's controlled by CAN BUS then anythings possible.

[LeeT5]

Right, this morning I did a fluid flush on my power steering and replaced my reservoir too.

You can either use Volvo p/s fluid (made by Pentosin) part code CHF11S, formally CHF202 (now superseded) at £15 a litre.
Or you can use Comma MVCHF, which is exactly the same oil. Note: CHF11S is synthetic not mineral oil. £9.59 a litre.

Now because the pump takes a direct supply from the reservoir it's very easy to flush the system out. No need to remove the return and try to fill a bottle whilst making sure you don't run the pump dry. It's a lot easier and less mess using the method I and Silverhorse have successfully completed. Here's the stuff I used:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%202_zpskaqyr7za.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%202_zpskaqyr7za.jpg.html)

200ml automotive syringe:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%206_zpsvvzf7qjy.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%206_zpsvvzf7qjy.jpg.html)

Firstly, clamp the supply hose to the pump as close to the pump as possible. Then clamp the return to reservoir hose:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%205_zps8fkwnixd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%205_zps8fkwnixd.jpg.html)

Place a rag on top of the alternator as you don't want any p/s oil entering the alternator!!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%204_zps9oduvdh5.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%204_zps9oduvdh5.jpg.html)

Then undo the reservoir cap and proceed to suck as much oil from the reservoir as possible. I managed about 500ml. Place the old oil into a white container, so you can inspect for cleanliness and contaminants. My oil was blatantly Dexron red coloured and very dark. There was also some tiny black particles floating about.....so definitely worth changing:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%208_zpsk86sond8.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%208_zpsk86sond8.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%207_zpsutv55d2h.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%207_zpsutv55d2h.jpg.html)

Then, placing the old cap back on the reservoir, carefully remove the hoses from the pump and the return to the reservoir. Leave the reservoir supply end on! Lift the reservoir out from it's location paying careful attention to not break the retaining bracket on the Coolant reservoir.
I used brand new jubilee clips so disposed of the old ones. Be careful not to damage the hose as a new one will cost £50 from Volvo.
Remove the hose from the old reservoir (draining the remainder of the fluid out) and then clean the hose using Carburettor cleaner and a rag:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%209_zpsondydav9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%209_zpsondydav9.jpg.html)

Now connect your nice clean hose to the new reservoir and fit a new jubilee to the supply end of the hose. (Don't forget to remove the red end caps) Then fit the reservoir to the Coolant reservoir, paying careful attention to the locating tab and two guides! Once clipped into place, refit the return hose to the reservoir using a new jubilee clamp. Then place the supply hose back in the p/s pump guide and fit to the pump using a new jubilee clamp.
Before tightening the jubilees make sure that the supply hose is not rubbing against the ECU housing or anywhere near the Auxiliary belt. Once the hose is correctly sited, tighten the jubilee clamps (Do not over tighten)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%2010_zpsxnn6hgff.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%2010_zpsxnn6hgff.jpg.html )

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%2011_zps7xyo4hlk.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%2011_zps7xyo4hlk.jpg.html )

Remove the clamps from the hoses.
remove the rag from the Alternator.

Now add, using a small funnel to avoid spillage, about 400ml of fresh P/S fluid. Check the cold level on the cap dip stick. Fill it to the cold level

Now I jacked up my vehicle at the front and placed on axle stands cos I didn't want to damage my tyres:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%203_zpsznsoo7gs.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%203_zpsznsoo7gs.jpg.html)

Leave the cap off and start the engine. You will need to top up, so have the new fluid ready! Do not overfill!

Correct procedure to bleed the steering is to turn the steering lock to lock 20 times holding the steering against the stops on each lock for 10 seconds. This is as per VIDA instructions.

Once complete, switch off and check the level. Adjust accordingly and refit the cap. Lower the car to the ground and test drive.

To complete the flush you will need to suck another 500ml from the reservoir and refill....which I have done. You won't need to jack up and bleed the fluid since your not removing the supply hose. Just refill with fresh fluid and check level.
Do this a further 4 times driving the car for at least 10 miles between flushes. Most of the old oil is removed on the first 'suck' (500ml). The second 500ml drain saw my fluid change from blacky/red to greeny/black.

The new fluid is clear green and once 4 more flushes are complete, it will be so.

Here's a comparison of old fluid on the left V new fluid on the right:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%201_zpsnssilmnq.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/power%20steering%20flush/power%20steering%20flush%201_zpsnssilmnq.jpg.html)

After 10 minutes of driving I have noticed quite a remarkable difference. It's definitely smoother and most of the juddering I was experiencing at low speeds has gone. Once I've completed 4 more flushes I hope that it will be judder free and ultra smooth :biggrin:

[Wobbly Dave]

My new one leaks. Such a bad design.

[LeeT5]

My new one leaks. Such a bad design.

New one? Under warranty if less than 12 months old! Take it back for a replacement.

[Reverend]

On the plus side, The issue with VIDA was a mixture of software but mostly Hardware. I had to buy a new laptop with XP Pro SP3 and install 4GB ram.
Then I had access to a second server allowing me to D/L 2013D (a known working version).
I then had to buy some 8GB Dual layer DVD's and then burn to disc.
Then install to new laptop. Then had an issue with SQL server software, which I fixed and then 'Hey Presto!!' all is good.
I also thought my DICE was knackered because I did update the firmware (others on Swedespeed and T5D5 have had massive issues with corrupt firmware destroying the DICE and preventing it from working).
However, mine works OK.


Slightly off topic, but I've been building this one to make things easier to not require a dedicated laptop or a difficult install procedure;

Win7x32-VIDA.zip 8.50 GB
https://mega.co.nz/#!XdVhmKYI!KqM8GV1-LX6oy5nXMcTIpDCPPm1IBCFzwOvjyRN8FBE

x64-Windows6.1-KB958559-x64-RefreshPkg.msu 16.3 MB
https://mega.co.nz/#!OM9yUQhR!H2FSRRIykfAoHTZCD1ERxAzQAdR21asMIbEQHXP iNww

x86-Windows6.1-KB958559-x86-RefreshPkg.msu 15.3 MB
https://mega.co.nz/#!2ddUVCrR!Qfmry0sy9F9fVNDry7Vxth0KMpMIw18ZZayjeYI 2bOg

Since building this, I ended up finding an old laptop (Win7 x64, 8GB RAM and 250GB SSD, runs VIDA like a charm), but it still works well. You pick one of the Virtual Machine players to suit, then download and run the VIDA virtual machine and adjust the memory as needed. I think I have it turned down to 1GB so anyone can run it, but with more RAM, you can increase it to improve the performance.

[Ettienne]

Good write up.

Where did you get the oil from and why replace the reservoir.

[LeeT5]

Good write up.

Where did you get the oil from and why replace the reservoir.

I bought the oil from http://www.scmf.co.uk/

The reservoir was replaced because they are known for splitting the seam. When I compared my old one to the new one, the difference was obvious. Over time the old reservoir has bulged at the sides and was fouling the ECU chamber.
The new one is straight down the sides and a whole 6mm of clearance between it and the ECU chamber. Also, there is a suction valve inside the reservoir and over time they get weak.

Here's a good video on how to change:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOUElRbsuQE"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOUElRbsuQE

[Harvey]

Good write up.

Where did you get the oil from and why replace the reservoir.

Have a read of your handbook to see what it says fluid wise,after Lee changing his I thought there's no harm to change mine looked in the book and gives a nice long number but no name.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG-20150301-WA0001_zpshnyxnobf.jpeg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG-20150301-WA0001_zpshnyxnobf.jpeg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111307_zpsci9rm0zz.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111307_zpsci9rm0zz.jpg.html)

I did Google the number but it didn't seem to cross reference to any other fluid. So it could be that 2006 cars on are different in some way ?.
So off to my Ford dealer less than £12 per bottle.

[Ettienne]

Have a read of your handbook to see what it says fluid wise,after Lee changing his I thought there's no harm to change mine looked in the book and gives a nice long number but no name.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG-20150301-WA0001_zpshnyxnobf.jpeg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG-20150301-WA0001_zpshnyxnobf.jpeg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111307_zpsci9rm0zz.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111307_zpsci9rm0zz.jpg.html)

I did Google the number but it didn't seem to cross reference to any other fluid. So it could be that 2006 cars on are different in some way ?.
So off to my Ford dealer less than £12 per bottle.

Post up what you buy.

[Harvey]

Post up what you buy.

This is what I got from the Ford main dealers.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111251_zpsnoraqkre.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111251_zpsnoraqkre.jpg.html)

[Ettienne]

I shall purchase a bottle or 2, cheaper than replacing the rack, £900 iirc for it alone, fortunately I have a low mileage spare.

[Wobbly Dave]

This is what I got from the Ford main dealers.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111251_zpsnoraqkre.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/harveysr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150303_111251_zpsnoraqkre.jpg.html)

How many languages can you identify?

[LeeT5]

How many languages can you identify?

17. :haha:

[MoleT-5R]

Think he's got you there Dave.....lol

[ExternalError]

17. :haha:

I think he means by country of origin

[Harvey]

I think he means by country of origin

It's easy really just says hydraulic fluid 17 times :biggrin:

[LeeT5]

1. Front fogs converted to 4300k HID --(ordered)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(complete)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(still waiting....)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(complete)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. larger exhaust tips
14. Fuel filter bracket and bolt
15. Fit stock air box once acrylic window mod complete*
16. Fit Blue Jetex cotton filter*
17. Swap Forge CBV yellow spring for blue spring (17psi).
18. 144k service at Dealer (for software updates) + Brembo disks and pads. (1500 miles to go)
19. P/S fluid flush (complete)

[LeeT5]

Yesterday I fitted these:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3149_zpsfyj6aizv.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3149_zpsfyj6aizv.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3154_zpsy2l6ccgi.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3154_zpsy2l6ccgi.jpg.html)

Some of you may remember that I removed my Subframe rear bush inserts to diagnose steering judder last year. Now I've finally completed the P/S fluid flush, I thought it would be apt to refit the bush inserts.
(A big thankyou to Lee- aka Sponge, T5D5, for holding onto a set due to my IC/PCV set back last year)

I also broke the aux belt tensioner cover when trying to remove it:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3150_zpsq0ae1yvv.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3150_zpsq0ae1yvv.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3151_zpsrpllwm08.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3151_zpsrpllwm08.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3152_zpsasgzhtum.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3152_zpsasgzhtum.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3153_zpsjvjkgncw.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3153_zpsjvjkgncw.jpg.html)

3rd steering flush complete.....1 more to go!

[Reverend]

5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)


What's this? I've never heard of it (so it must not exist)! What does it do?



9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)


I change the oil every 10K miles, so I fitted the Fumoto valve on mine. Attach a small hose, aim into container, push and twist lever a quarter turn and voilá...
http://i.imgur.com/9MsULJnl.jpg
(larger image here: http://i.imgur.com/9MsULJn.jpg)


Do these covers not come on new batteries?


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/IMG_3149_zpsfyj6aizv.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/IMG_3149_zpsfyj6aizv.jpg.html)

[stribo]

What's this? I've never heard of it (so it must not exist)! What does it do?



I change the oil every 10K miles, so I fitted the Fumoto valve on mine. Attach a small hose, aim into container, push and twist lever a quarter turn and voilá...
http://i.imgur.com/9MsULJnl.jpg
(larger image here: http://i.imgur.com/9MsULJn.jpg)


Do these covers not come on new batteries?

That valve looks like a handy bit of kit, where did you get it from?

[Harvey]

That valve looks like a handy bit of kit, where did you get it from?

You can get them in the UK .

http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/f104_adp104.htm

[Ettienne]

What a good idea the valve is, you still have the plastic shroud on the oil cooler. I've removed mine, which d5 is the one to fit as they are different 163 or 185?

[LeeT5]

What's this? I've never heard of it (so it must not exist)! What does it do?


**Do these covers not come on new batteries?

Hand brake Mod

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/b6cf8421be8b7caf6bde60f74bc2bc58_zpsd7be8049.jpg

Remove item 15 and replace with 18 and 19. Stops the vehicle 'roll back' experienced on P2 cars with stock hand brake.


**Yes, if fitted by Volvo.

However, recently, there was a Volvo TB out that said when a vehicle comes in for service....to remove the black battery shroud and fit the battery post cover instead. It's to allow easier access to the battery for workshop techs.

[LeeT5]

What a good idea the valve is, you still have the plastic shroud on the oil cooler. I've removed mine, which d5 is the one to fit as they are different 163 or 185?

Why remove it?

Does it aid cooling if removed or something?

[Ettienne]

Why remove it?

Does it aid cooling if removed or something?

Yes, it's been widely said and I remember reading that all tim Williams does is recommends removing the shroud on the d5 bigger version, and it's also said its as good as an ipd version.

so I did on mine as can't hurt, until it's replaced.

[LeeT5]

Is there a shroud on my R? Can't recall seeing one.

[LeeT5]

Well this lot arrived last week and it got me in the mood for continuing some more mods from my list, now that the weathers warming up!

Meguiars dispenser spray bottle is for the Tardis. The other white bottle is a snow foam bottle for my Karcher cos I cross threaded the other bottle. Also, there's a very thick lambswool drying towel (it's about an inch thick) and a decent Meguiars bag to put all my Meguiars detailing kit into. Also a bottle of Carlack wheel cleaner.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_3162_zps8odhozlu.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Random%20photos/IMG_3162_zps8odhozlu.jpg.html)

New HIDs for the Fog lights:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3160_zpsk83vwnsl.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3160_zpsk83vwnsl.jpg.html)

Prepped my RTi filter ready for when I fit it. Clothed in anti rattle tape and the white stuff ready to be peeled off to enable the cable to be stuck in situ:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_3155_zpsakhks3iy.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Interior/IMG_3155_zpsakhks3iy.jpg.html)

So.....Bumper off.....and fitted new bulbs after some serious modifying to the rear caps:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3174_zps321ob2yh.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3174_zps321ob2yh.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3173_zpss46t8znb.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3173_zpss46t8znb.jpg.html)

After I cable tied the wiring together I hot glued the slim digital ballasts onto the lip of the bumper (as in the picture). Making sure the plastic was cleaned with Meths.
I also used heat shrink wrap around the connectors to make them water tight.

Bumper refitted, here's a BEFORE shot:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3059_zpsjcgt24q4.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3059_zpsjcgt24q4.jpg.html)

And AFTER:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3176_zpselokidcd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3176_zpselokidcd.jpg.html)

Here's some more....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3178_zpsuqvi82nn.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3178_zpsuqvi82nn.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3175_zpsxphicqof.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3175_zpsxphicqof.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3177_zpsyuvfnqkj.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3177_zpsyuvfnqkj.jpg.html)

Fogs 6000k and Headlights 5000k

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3180_zpsoyoln5rb.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3180_zpsoyoln5rb.jpg.html)

Fogs only...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3179_zpsosmlcltd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Foglight%20HIDs/IMG_3179_zpsosmlcltd.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

Bloody thing was only replaced last year!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0714.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0714.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0713.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0713.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0707.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_0707.jpg.html)

I have lubricated the fan (as a Temporary repair) until this bad boy arrives on Saturday:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3172_zpsxojpcnkt.png (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3172_zpsxojpcnkt.png.html)

Hopefully, it will last longer than the Fractal fan did.

[LeeT5]

1. Fit 6000k HID fog lights - (COMPLETE)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(COMPLETE)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(still waiting....)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(COMPLETE)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. larger exhaust tips
14. Fuel filter bracket and bolt -- (COMPLETE)
15. Fit stock air box once acrylic window mod -- (COMPLETE - Awaiting AMS removal)
16. Fit Blue Jetex cotton filter -- (COMPLETE)
17. Swap Forge CBV yellow spring for blue spring (17psi).
18. 144k service at Dealer in April (for software updates)
19. P/S fluid flush (COMPLETE)
20. Fit BREMBO drilled discs and pads.
21. Fit D5 oil cooler -- (COMPLETE - pictures to follow)

[Erik The Viking]

Yep she's looking even more FINE now lee �� !

[MIKESC70T5]

U
1. Fit 6000k HID fog lights - (COMPLETE)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(COMPLETE)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(still waiting....)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(COMPLETE)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. larger exhaust tips
14. Fuel filter bracket and bolt -- (COMPLETE)
15. Fit stock air box once acrylic window mod -- (COMPLETE - Awaiting AMS removal)
16. Fit Blue Jetex cotton filter -- (COMPLETE)
17. Swap Forge CBV yellow spring for blue spring (17psi).
18. 144k service at Dealer in April (for software updates)
19. P/S fluid flush (COMPLETE)
20. Fit BREMBO drilled discs and pads.
21. Fit D5 oil cooler -- (COMPLETE - pictures to follow)

Your slacking Lee. We're now into Spring and your list has jobs that were meant to be done in the New Year, sort it out. :cool:

[LeeT5]

Finally fitted new fan to Subwoofer Amp in the boot:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3207_zpsyaw38mql.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3207_zpsyaw38mql.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3217_zpsxro0k1q7.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Audio%20equipment/IMG_3217_zpsxro0k1q7.jpg.html)

and replaced my old rusty bracket for the fuel filter:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_3204_zpsvfmza38t.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/Exterior/IMG_3204_zpsvfmza38t.jpg.html)

[LeeT5]

The D5 oil cooler is noticeably bigger than a stock T5/R oil cooler or any cooler fitted to a petrol P2.
It's been compared by trusted sources and the differences are most excellent IMH and worth changing.
Notably, the car's engine oil will warm up 1-2 miles sooner and the temperature of the oil will be much closer to that of the coolant. Also, when driven hard, the oil will be 10 - 15*C cooler than a stock cooler.

You can buy a new cooler from Volvo for about £200 or get a get used one on eBay for around £40.
I, luckily have a mate with a D5 engine that he just scrapped, so he gave me the cooler for free!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3213_zpsqpuvogfw.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3213_zpsqpuvogfw.jpg.html)

You'll need to purchase two new 'O' rings from Volvo. Part# 30637339 £5.70 ea:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3218_zpsgadddndi.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3218_zpsgadddndi.jpg.html)

Firstly, remove the plastic cowling. This aids cooling as the cooler is made of aluminium and the plastic jacket acts just like....'a jacket!'

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3214_zpsmgq2fauj.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3214_zpsmgq2fauj.jpg.html)

Then, give the old girl a good clean up with some GUNK and a plastic brush, not forgetting to rinse out the cooler with petrol, making sure you don't pour petrol down the coolant hoses!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3215_zpsumtzkugd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3215_zpsumtzkugd.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3216_zpsqezemyh1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3216_zpsqezemyh1.jpg.html)

Then very gently, clean the face of the cooler with a razor blade getting all the hard deposits off until it's smooth:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3219_zpskafuztez.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3219_zpskafuztez.jpg.html)

Then you can fit to the car.

You'll need two new 16-25mm Hose clips, two good hose clamps, a T40 and a flat blade screw driver to remove the non reuseable clip and safety glasses.

remove the black coolant hose from the oil cooler....you'll be using the hose on your car!

I had my car on quality ramps for this job. Make sure the engine is cold as you don't want to burn your arms on hot oil or coolant!
Undo the 4 x T40 bolts partially and use the flat blade screwdriver to crack the seal on the cooler and Sump. Have a catch can ready for the escaping oil. You'll only lose about 400ml of oil. Do NOT drain the sump!!

Then break the non reusable seal on the hose. Clamp off both coolant lines and use a small screwdriver to break the seal of the coolant hoses. The hoses are lined and very sticky when warm, so they grip very well. Getting a clamp on the right hand hose is a real PITA but is possible with care.
Once clamped and hose clamps removed, gently pull off the old cooler.

Wipe away any oil from the sump and remove the two old GREEN 'O' rings replacing them with the new BLACK 'O' rings.

Fit new cooler and tighten hose clamps.
Remove hose clamps.
Fit T40 bolts and tighten in the same fashion as doing up wheel bolts.....ie, top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left. Do them by hand first, then tighten securely but do not overtighten!! The sump is Alloy and if you strip the thread it will cost you around £400 for a new sump!

Here you can see the D5 cooler fitted versus the old one:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3220_zps6fzfcocf.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3220_zps6fzfcocf.jpg.html)

Once complete, start the engine and drive off your ramps then switch off!

Go and make a cuppa tea (not a beer cos you'll need to road test) as you'll need the oil level to settle....................10 minutes later..........

Check your oil level and top up accordingly. I had to add 0.5 litre.
Check your coolant level...initially, mine didn't move but I knew that it would be low in the morning.

ROAD TEST........then check for any oil/coolant leaks.

Park car on level ground because you will need to top up coolant the next day. I topped up mine by about 0.5 litre with 50/50 mix.

:)

[LeeT5]

1. Fit 6000k HID fog lights - (COMPLETE)
2. 3" downpipe --(in the new year)
3. 200 cell race cat --(in the new year)
4. Fit Volvotech CFE --(COMPLETE)
5. Handbrake mod --(in the new year)
6. Replace windscreen --(in the spring)
7. New leather OE gear knob --(still waiting....)
8. Refit rear mudflaps --(COMPLETE)
9. Fit magnetic engine oil drain plug on next service --(in garage)
10. IPD Rear adjustable toe rods --(Need to order)
11. IPD DEM alloy cover --(need to order)
12. IPD Billet blue alloy engine oil cap. --(need to order)
13. larger exhaust tips
14. Fuel filter bracket and bolt -- (COMPLETE)
15. Fit stock air box once acrylic window mod -- (COMPLETE - Awaiting AMS removal)
16. Fit Blue Jetex cotton filter -- (COMPLETE)
17. Swap Forge CBV yellow spring for blue spring (17psi).
18. 144k service at Dealer in April (for software updates)
19. P/S fluid flush (COMPLETE)
20. Fit BREMBO drilled discs and pads.
21. Fit D5 oil cooler -- (COMPLETE)
22. Fit 05> rear lights.

Dam list just keeps getting bigger! :wink:

[960kg]

OK, so everyone to there own....but i do think Volvo know a bit more than the average owner about there products ....which is why the Diesel oil cooler is larger than the Petrol version!

I do believe that you could be walking a tightrope doing this mod as the oil temperature in a diesel engine engine does run a fair bit cooler than in a petrol engine hence the larger cooler...

There is always blowpast in an engine and so therefore with blowpast a lot of the combustible materials can be circulating the sump which is why we have service intervals for changing the oil...

Along with those chemicals produced from combustion is water and the oil temperature has to be above the coolant temperature so the hot oil will have the least amount of water contained in it.

If the oil temp. is allowed to be cooler than recommended then the water may not evaporate completely and rather than just good synthetic oil going to the bearings then an oil water blend that may well boil the water out at the bearing surface and do damage!!.......:nut:

There will always be water present if oil temps aren't kept high enough!...


.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .

[Harvey]

But is the D5 oil cooler a cooler or a oil heater when on the D5 ?,I think the cooler mod is more if you are going to track the car to be fair.
The water temp on a R is around the 88-90 deg mark,so it should help to heat the oil when it's very cold.

[jamesy12345]

OK, so everyone to there own....but i do think Volvo know a bit more than the average owner about there products ....which is why the Diesel oil cooler is larger than the Petrol version!

I do believe that you could be walking a tightrope doing this mod as the oil temperature in a diesel engine engine does run a fair bit cooler than in a petrol engine hence the larger cooler...

There is always blowpast in an engine and so therefore with blowpast a lot of the combustible materials can be circulating the sump which is why we have service intervals for changing the oil...

Along with those chemicals produced from combustion is water and the oil temperature has to be above the coolant temperature so the hot oil will have the least amount of water contained in it.

If the oil temp. is allowed to be cooler than recommended then the water may not evaporate completely and rather than just good synthetic oil going to the bearings then an oil water blend that may well boil the water out at the bearing surface and do damage!!.......:nut:

There will always be water present if oil temps aren't kept high enough!...


.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .

In normal use I doubt the cooler will reduce the oil temp sufficiently to achieve what you are suggesting. But when driven hard it is supposed to help prevent the oil getting near dangerous temps


But is the D5 oil cooler a cooler or a oil heater when on the D5 ?,I think the cooler mod is more if you are going to track the car to be fair.
The water temp on a R is around the 88-90 deg mark,so it should help to heat the oil when it's very cold.

water-to-oil coolers do both jobs - heat the oil when oil is cold, and cool the oil when the oil is hot

[stribo]

Looks like it could be a worthw hile mod for our R, as it gets tracked, thanks for the write up Lee, another job to add to the list. :wallbash:

[960kg]

In normal use I doubt the cooler will reduce the oil temp sufficiently to achieve what you are suggesting. But when driven hard it is supposed to help prevent the oil getting near dangerous temps

I understand what you are saying......

But when the engine coolant is running at only 92 centigrade i believe there is more of a chance the oil can be reduced to the coolant temp. seeing as the diesel cooler is a lot larger and the oil thermostat in the petrol version opens at 95 centigrade up to about 150 centigrade!!

The petrol version does need the smaller cooler to keep the oil temp. correct......especially for round the towns road cars not used much........on a race track then i agree whole heartedly.......

Still only my opinion, just don`t like owners not understanding the proper workings of an engine and risk damage to them!
.................................................. ...

As you can see i now have a Diesel and it does need the larger oil cooler to heat the engine oil up sooner as the block of a diesel there is so much metal it takes my Merc. about 5mls to get to 100 centigrade which it runs at.....petrol and diesel completely different...

[jamesy12345]

I understand what you are saying......

But when the engine coolant is running at only 92 centigrade i believe there is more of a chance the oil can be reduced to the coolant temp. seeing as the diesel cooler is a lot larger and the oil thermostat in the petrol version opens at 95 centigrade up to about 150 centigrade!!

The petrol version does need the smaller cooler to keep the oil temp. correct......especially for round the towns road cars not used much........on a race track then i agree whole heartedly.......

Still only my opinion, just don`t like owners not understanding the proper workings of an engine and risk damage to them!
.................................................. ...

As you can see i now have a Diesel and it does need the larger oil cooler to heat the engine oil up sooner as the block of a diesel there is so much metal it takes my Merc. about 5mls to get to 100 centigrade which it runs at.....petrol and diesel completely different...

Understood..personally I think you are overestimating the cooling effect of the new item, but that is only based on comparing the number of rows on each cooler rather than experience. Time to break out that laser thermometer, Lee!!

[Ettienne]

I was quite literally just talking about this mod on another thread

[S70T5Chris]

I understand what you are saying......

But when the engine coolant is running at only 92 centigrade i believe there is more of a chance the oil can be reduced to the coolant temp. seeing as the diesel cooler is a lot larger and the oil thermostat in the petrol version opens at 95 centigrade up to about 150 centigrade!!

The petrol version does need the smaller cooler to keep the oil temp. correct......especially for round the towns road cars not used much........on a race track then i agree whole heartedly.......

Still only my opinion, just don`t like owners not understanding the proper workings of an engine and risk damage to them!
.................................................. ...

As you can see i now have a Diesel and it does need the larger oil cooler to heat the engine oil up sooner as the block of a diesel there is so much metal it takes my Merc. about 5mls to get to 100 centigrade which it runs at.....petrol and diesel completely different...

What your saying kind of makes sense in theory. However the reality of it is, you're just wrong!

Using a D5 oil cooler on an R has been well tested, granted as an aid in keeping the oil temps cooler on a track, for which it is a very successful modification. To theorise that it would cause the oil to not reach the correct temp on the road, and cause problems is just incorrect! And that's the problem you are just theorising, rather than testing for real.

I don't run an oil temp gauge, but many of the guys on T5D5 do, I'll try and find out what the normal oil temps are on the road for an R using a D5 oil cooler. But I suspect for normal road driving the temps are pretty much the same as using a standard oil cooler.

Many people including myself have been using a D5 oil cooler for years, and have yet to see any problems caused by it. So scare mongering about something you don't actually have any first hand experience of is a bit silly.

[960kg]

Of course it makes sense in theory as you say it does ( so who is scaremongering now? )......

The practicalities of any event are in the testing of it........for a track motor yes........ but for a road motor or just for attention in a Project Thread, can`t see why?

This is a Forum after all and these such discussions always tend to bring the worst out in others with quite condescending remarks....just shows you how some members try to show their hierachy!.........instead of an interesting discussion.

So your own suspicions that the normal road temps. would be the same as a standard oil cooler do hint at a waste of time and money to the conversion!......so in theory the material bulk of a diesel compared to the lesser bulk of a petrol engine and also the difference in coolant temps. and the difference in the size of oil cooler are all to avail or waste of development so why do Volvo or other marques have the same differences?

Seems to me that the normal forum members whether here or otherwise know more about the science of mechanics than the actual manufacturers who plough millions into development...

If the viscosity of the oil is what is concerned about `cos of the heat being generated by a round the houses motor then i suppose one could always change the grade of oil instead....Simples

[jamesy12345]

...As you can see i now have a Diesel and it does need the larger oil cooler to heat the engine oil up sooner as the block of a diesel there is so much metal it takes my Merc. about 5mls to get to 100 centigrade which it runs at.....petrol and diesel completely different...

Good point - the larger cooler will heat up the oil slightly faster from cold...which is a good thing


..So your own suspicions that the normal road temps. would be the same as a standard oil cooler do hint at a waste of time and money to the conversion!......so in theory the material bulk of a diesel compared to the lesser bulk of a petrol engine and also the difference in coolant temps. and the difference in the size of oil cooler are all to avail or waste of development so why do Volvo or other marques have the same differences?
...

It can't be a waste of time as the point of the mod is to provide more cooling when the car is used hard. No science needed - a blind man in a welder's mask can see that increasing the size of a cooler will....cool more at extremes. Doesn't matter whether Lee goes on the track or not, it's still a 300 hp car

//edit

err sorry 300+ :D

[stribo]

So as I'm being a dick today, would I be right in thinking the D5 oil cooler is actually an oil heater? I always wondered why the D5 had a larger oil 'cooler' as diesels run cooler than petrol engined cars anyway.

[jamesy12345]

So as I'm being a dick today, would I be right in thinking the D5 oil cooler is actually an oil heater? I always wondered why the D5 had a larger oil 'cooler' as diesels run cooler than petrol engined cars anyway.

who said diesel engines run colder oil....?

In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top piston ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 160 °C (320 °F). In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 315 °C (600 °F). Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[Sperm1980]

An oil cooler is just that, a cooler.

Think of the extremes the oil goes through from the second you turn the key! Pressure of who knows in crank journals and between cam lobes and followers.

The 5 odd litres of oil will b up to operating temp, way before the larger amount and area of coolant.

[jamesy12345]

An oil cooler is just that, a cooler.

Think of the extremes the oil goes through from the second you turn the key! Pressure of who knows in crank journals and between cam lobes and followers.

The 5 odd litres of oil will b up to operating temp, way before the larger amount and area of coolant.

Coolant gets up to temperature before the oil does...maybe we should make a separate thread here :)

[stribo]

who said diesel engines run colder oil....?

In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top piston ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 160 °C (320 °F). In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 315 °C (600 °F). Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil


I didn't say diesels run cooler oil, I said diesels run cooler as an engine. Sit in a diesel engined car on a cold day, and wait for the heater to work, you'll be sitting there a long time, an equivalent petrol engine will warm up far quicker. So I ask the question again, is the D5 oil 'cooler' actually an oil warmer?

[jamesy12345]

I didn't say diesels run cooler oil, I said diesels run cooler as an engine. Sit in a diesel engined car on a cold day, and wait for the heater to work, you'll be sitting there a long time, an equivalent petrol engine will warm up far quicker. So I ask the question again, is the D5 oil 'cooler' actually an oil warmer?

Maybe cos the oil cooler is bigger :uglyhamme

Refer to post #209 (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?51462-LeeT5-s-V70R-Project&p=764670&viewfull=1#post764670), we're going round in circles now

[stribo]

Maybe cos the oil cooler is bigger :uglyhamme

Refer to post #209 (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?51462-LeeT5-s-V70R-Project&p=764786&viewfull=1#post764786), we're going round in circles now

I wasn't talking Volvos specifically, but diesel engines in general.

[Sperm1980]

Coolant gets up to temperature before the oil does...maybe we should make a separate thread here :)

Hey, if that's what most think that's fine, but many years of testing heavy Diesel engines tells me otherwise. But I guess that's for another thread.

Nice car by the way Leet5, a credit to your ownership.

Cheers

[jamesy12345]

I wasn't talking Volvos specifically, but diesel engines in general.

no I was being serious...you right they do take longer to warm up....and that left me with the impression that they ran cooler also. If that wikipedia link is correct then maybe they are 'overcooled' no idea


Hey, if that's what most think that's fine, but many years of testing heavy Diesel engines tells me otherwise. But I guess that's for another thread.

Nice car by the way Leet5, a credit to your ownership.

Cheers

I was talking about cars....my Volvo 480 had nice digital oil & water temperature read outs...you are correct this could make its own thread

Sorry Lee!!

[Ettienne]

I suppose one thing to remember is they do make uprated oil coolers from places like ipd and you'd hope they are of benefit.

I just removed the plastic guard from mine for the moment.

[Dream3r]

I think Polestar run the D5 cooler on their C30, which answers that.

I've got one in the garage to fit when I have more time.

[Dream3r]

The D5 oil cooler is noticeably bigger than a stock T5/R oil cooler or any cooler fitted to a petrol P2.
It's been compared by trusted sources and the differences are most excellent IMH and worth changing.
Notably, the car's engine oil will warm up 1-2 miles sooner and the temperature of the oil will be much closer to that of the coolant. Also, when driven hard, the oil will be 10 - 15*C cooler than a stock cooler.

You can buy a new cooler from Volvo for about £200 or get a get used one on eBay for around £40.
I, luckily have a mate with a D5 engine that he just scrapped, so he gave me the cooler for free!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3213_zpsqpuvogfw.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3213_zpsqpuvogfw.jpg.html)

You'll need to purchase two new 'O' rings from Volvo. Part# 30637339 £5.70 ea:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3218_zpsgadddndi.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3218_zpsgadddndi.jpg.html)

Firstly, remove the plastic cowling. This aids cooling as the cooler is made of aluminium and the plastic jacket acts just like....'a jacket!'

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3214_zpsmgq2fauj.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3214_zpsmgq2fauj.jpg.html)

Then, give the old girl a good clean up with some GUNK and a plastic brush, not forgetting to rinse out the cooler with petrol, making sure you don't pour petrol down the coolant hoses!!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3215_zpsumtzkugd.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3215_zpsumtzkugd.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3216_zpsqezemyh1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3216_zpsqezemyh1.jpg.html)

Then very gently, clean the face of the cooler with a razor blade getting all the hard deposits off until it's smooth:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3219_zpskafuztez.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3219_zpskafuztez.jpg.html)

Then you can fit to the car.

You'll need two new 16-25mm Hose clips, two good hose clamps, a T40 and a flat blade screw driver to remove the non reuseable clip and safety glasses.

remove the black coolant hose from the oil cooler....you'll be using the hose on your car!

I had my car on quality ramps for this job. Make sure the engine is cold as you don't want to burn your arms on hot oil or coolant!
Undo the 4 x T40 bolts partially and use the flat blade screwdriver to crack the seal on the cooler and Sump. Have a catch can ready for the escaping oil. You'll only lose about 400ml of oil. Do NOT drain the sump!!

Then break the non reusable seal on the hose. Clamp off both coolant lines and use a small screwdriver to break the seal of the coolant hoses. The hoses are lined and very sticky when warm, so they grip very well. Getting a clamp on the right hand hose is a real PITA but is possible with care.
Once clamped and hose clamps removed, gently pull off the old cooler.

Wipe away any oil from the sump and remove the two old GREEN 'O' rings replacing them with the new BLACK 'O' rings.

Fit new cooler and tighten hose clamps.
Remove hose clamps.
Fit T40 bolts and tighten in the same fashion as doing up wheel bolts.....ie, top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left. Do them by hand first, then tighten securely but do not overtighten!! The sump is Alloy and if you strip the thread it will cost you around £400 for a new sump!

Here you can see the D5 cooler fitted versus the old one:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3220_zps6fzfcocf.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/LeeT5/media/V70R%20Engine%20mods/IMG_3220_zps6fzfcocf.jpg.html)

Once complete, start the engine and drive off your ramps then switch off!

Go and make a cuppa tea (not a beer cos you'll need to road test) as you'll need the oil level to settle....................10 minutes later..........

Check your oil level and top up accordingly. I had to add 0.5 litre.
Check your coolant level...initially, mine didn't move but I knew that it would be low in the morning.

ROAD TEST........then check for any oil/coolant leaks.

Park car on level ground because you will need to top up coolant the next day. I topped up mine by about 0.5 litre with 50/50 mix.

:)

Good write up mate.

[oblark]

As your on the subject of oil coolers.

The focus ST & RS boys use a oil cooler from penta engine.

Its thicker than the D5 oil cooler.

[LeeT5]

OK, so everyone to there own....but i do think Volvo know a bit more than the average owner about there products ....which is why the Diesel oil cooler is larger than the Petrol version!

I do believe that you could be walking a tightrope doing this mod as the oil temperature in a diesel engine engine does run a fair bit cooler than in a petrol engine hence the larger cooler...

There is always blowpast in an engine and so therefore with blowpast a lot of the combustible materials can be circulating the sump which is why we have service intervals for changing the oil...

Along with those chemicals produced from combustion is water and the oil temperature has to be above the coolant temperature so the hot oil will have the least amount of water contained in it.

If the oil temp. is allowed to be cooler than recommended then the water may not evaporate completely and rather than just good synthetic oil going to the bearings then an oil water blend that may well boil the water out at the bearing surface and do damage!!.......:nut:

There will always be water present if oil temps aren't kept high enough!...



Now I do think think you're being ridiculous. That may well be the case about blowpast and I'm not disputing that fact. However, you're implying that I only drive my car 2 miles to the shops once a week and therefore, it that were true, Yes! I would be running the risk of high levels of condensation build up in my oil and possible engine damage caused by the said emulsified oil.
However, I don't! So :haha:

The most common way to see if an engine is not getting up to temperature is infact by just checking for emulsified oil being present around the oil filler cap. My missus's TT used to suffer with this because the Thermostat was partially jammed open and therefore would not allow the engine to get up to temp (unless I gave it a really good thrashing) in the 20 miles she drove to work and back, 40 mile round trip.
I knew the thermostat was stuck because the gauge rarely went over 70*C and it was nearly 6 months before I had a chance to sort it out. I was always wiping mayonnaise off the oil cap.
Now I have replaced the Thermostat and oil dipstick assy and replaced the engine oil and filter (6 months ago) the emulsified oil has not returned and the oil cap remains clean. The temp gauge gets up to 90*C a lot quicker than it used to get to 70*C too.

Ppl often confuse this with a failing head gasket when buying a car. Not so. It is evidence of sustained short journeys where the engine is not getting up to temperature, school runs, local shop trips etc.


Coolant gets up to temperature before the oil does...maybe we should make a separate thread here :)

That's a good idea, but I don't mind as long as ppl keep to the point and don't babble on about stuff that is not relevant. :)

[Dream3r]

One thing I do on short trips is keep the heating off, the coolant warms up a lot faster in the winter this way obviously :)

Bosch think of oil temp as a function of coolant temp, if that makes sense.

[LeeT5]

One thing I do on short trips is keep the heating off, the coolant warms up a lot faster in the winter this way obviously :)

Bosch think of oil temp as a function of coolant temp, if that makes sense.

No it doesn't make sense?

[Dream3r]

There is a clear relationship in turbocharged engines between coolant temp and oil temp, you can mathematically calculate an estimated oil temp value if you measure coolant temp and you can get more accurate if you measure some of the oil properties.

[960kg]

Now I do think think you're being ridiculous. That may well be the case about blowpast and I'm not disputing that fact. However, you're implying that I only drive my car 2 miles to the shops once a week and therefore, it that were true, Yes! I would be running the risk of high levels of condensation build up in my oil and possible engine damage caused by the said emulsified oil.
However, I don't! So :haha:

The most common way to see if an engine is not getting up to temperature is infact by just checking for emulsified oil being present around the oil filler cap. My missus's TT used to suffer with this because the Thermostat was partially jammed open and therefore would not allow the engine to get up to temp (unless I gave it a really good thrashing) in the 20 miles she drove to work and back, 40 mile round trip.
I knew the thermostat was stuck because the gauge rarely went over 70*C and it was nearly 6 months before I had a chance to sort it out. I was always wiping mayonnaise off the oil cap.
Now I have replaced the Thermostat and oil dipstick assy and replaced the engine oil and filter (6 months ago) the emulsified oil has not returned and the oil cap remains clean. The temp gauge gets up to 90*C a lot quicker than it used to get to 70*C too.

First of all i am not being rediculous and you can ridicule all you like.........you were probably still in your dad`s ball bag when i was doing laps around the Hatch in Kent in the `60`s :lol:

You said you only do 7k a yr which is not that much as you must use your AA van most of the time!

You have actually knocked the nail on the head and others have so far not even gone there, they just rant ridicule without thinking about a discussion.....yes, we can ALL ridicule!.........

The fact is if one mounts an oil cooler as an extra to the front of the motor it is not connected in any way to the coolant system and is purely put there to keep a check on the temps. of the oil in performance testing ,races , rallying ........i used to do rallying in the late `60`s so i do have some idea!

The oil cooler on the front bumper of a motor as said is not connected to the coolant system so in no way can it be controlled only by the ambient air temp., but the larger oil cooler with coolant pipes circulating within it fitted directly to the engine block is to some large extent controlled by the temp. of the coolant!...

Even if the bigger oil cooler is fitted in the standard place on the C30 as the V70 who know`s if the oil thermostat has been rated differently for that model?......

The oil thermostat on the V70 opens at 95 C and up to about 150 C.........but "Harvey" says the water temp on an R is around the 88-90 deg mark...which is worse or colder than i said at 92 C which is X40 T4 temp.......so therefore yes, the coolant will help raise the temp. of the oil quicker but only if the actual thermostat of the coolant is working ok!.......and furthermore if the engine only reaches 88 C then the oil will be kept at a operating lower temp. than it should be and not just because of the coolant but because the oil cooler is larger!

So basically if one knows what they are doing with race or track motors then that is a good conversion but NOT for the average Volvo owner or road car even if it has 300+.......

My Merc. has just had a remap which has resulted in 290bhp with a whopping 626Nm of torque and it still runs at 100 C coolant temp.......there is quite some leeway (excuse the pun) on standard running gear of all motors which is one reason remaps are got away with relatively easy...

All engines have to run as near to boiling point of the coolant as possible for economy, wear and performance which as we all know is why the coolant reservoir is pressurised to up the boiling point to stop coolant from boiling as the engine is best run at 100 C.

So therefore Diesels do run at the same operating temp. as Petrols BUT the diesel takes a lot longer to warm up because of the bulk of metal in a diesel engine to sustain the higher compression and give higher torque figures...

My V70 T5 was up to temp. in about half a mile on the guage but the Merc. takes at least five miles.......in fact it says in my handbook don`t dip the oil level until after 20 minutes of running otherwise you will get a low reading!





One thing I do on short trips is keep the heating off, the coolant warms up a lot faster in the winter this way obviously :)

I can`t quite believe just what you have written and i have just read!.....you do all these complicated maps or whatever and you don`t know that the Volvo heating coolant system cannot be turned off.....the coolant circulates the WHOLE system and is turned hot or cold air by electrically operated or vacuum operated flaps!

The coolant warms up exactly the same whether the heater controls are on or off....just because the flap on the dash maybe shut the heated air is still all in the pipes & hoses behind the dash!

[Ettienne]

I think that having the heater controls on hot does reduce engine temp as your drawing air through the matrix cooling it down and taking heat away from the engine.

It's just the laws thermal dynamics and conservation of energy surely?

[960kg]

I think that having the heater controls on hot does reduce engine temp as your drawing air through the matrix cooling it down and taking heat away from the engine.

It's just the laws thermal dynamics and conservation of energy surely?

I think we are now getting around the ridiculus circle a bit more now.......:uglyhamme

When the engine is cold starting and the heater flaps are on hot air supply...cold air is not drawn through from the outside of the car to let the interior heat up quicker!....so it has none or very minute effect on the warmup period of the coolant...

.......50 years ago ...yes, turn it off to stop coolant recirculating in the matrix well inside the car....

We are now ECC with some MCC units .............

[LeeT5]

First of all i am not being rediculous and you can ridicule all you like.........you were probably still in your dad`s ball bag when i was doing laps around the Hatch in Kent in the `60`s :lol:



:rolleyes: Change the record will ya! We've all heard that line too many times in the past from you.

Just because you're older, doesn't make you wiser or more knowledgeable! ...and please don't think I'm dissing you, cos I'm not. I've gotta lot of respect for 'old school engineering', heck I should know.
My old man's old school and I was taught by some of the best Engineers in the country back in 1990-92.

Technology moves on and so should you (or at least keep up).

As S70T5Chris and Oblark say, it's already been tried and tested in the field and is, without question, a good mod to do, regardless of whether I track my car or not. It will have no negative affect whatsoever on my engine.
So I don't give a rats about what you say with regards to 'water in my oil', cos as far as I'm concerned, it's irrelevant.
I have no 'mayonnaise' around my filler cap and I drop my oil every year regardless of mileage.

To suggest that I'm looking for brownie points on this thread too is utterly ridiculous. I modify, others modify and we all take from it what we want. If someone praises me for a good write up - then so be it, if they don't then I don't really give a ££££. Otherwise, what's the point of a project thread in the first place?

....and can you STOP keep pressing the bloody full stop key on your keyboard, when you mean to press the comma! It makes reading your posts even harder. :wink:

[LeeT5]

One thing I do on short trips is keep the heating off, the coolant warms up a lot faster in the winter this way obviously :)

Bosch think of oil temp as a function of coolant temp, if that makes sense.

In his defence 960kg, he's NOT a mechanic so wouldn't understand this.

[S70T5Chris]

My Merc. has just had a remap which has resulted in 290bhp with a whopping 626Nm of torque and it still runs at 100 C coolant temp.......there is quite some leeway (excuse the pun) on standard running gear of all motors which is one reason remaps are got away with relatively easy...



You can't have it all ways! Continually attacking what people do to their car more often than not, in a pretentious and condescending manner. Commonly quoting how a manufacturer spends millions developing xyz, and how could anyone know better? Yet on the other hand you have your car remapped by god knows who and choose to justify it, yet by your own logic, how could the pissy little garage that bunged their software on your car with their £300 laptop know better than Mercedes who undoubtedly spent millions developing the original tune?

I know you're supposed to respect your elders and all that but it works both ways mate. Let someone else have an opinion for once, especially one that is proven unlike your "theory" on the subject. And in this instance whilst you prove your knowledge on such matters to be vast (or at least to the untrained eye), you must concede that you are just wrong in this case of fitting a D5 oil cooler to a P2R (or varient)?!! Or are you just one of those narrow minded old duffers who can't stand to be told different by someone younger because "you're years make you far wiser and more knowledgeable". Eventually you have to move with the times!

[960kg]

:rolleyes: Change the record will ya! We've all heard that line too many times in the past from you.

Just because you're older, doesn't make you wiser or more knowledgeable! ...and please don't think I'm dissing you, cos I'm not. I've gotta lot of respect for 'old school engineering', heck I should know.
My old man's old school and I was taught by some of the best Engineers in the country back in 1990-92.

Technology moves on and so should you (or at least keep up).

As S70T5Chris and Oblark say, it's already been tried and tested in the field and is, without question, a good mod to do, regardless of whether I track my car or not. It will have no negative affect whatsoever on my engine.
So I don't give a rats about what you say with regards to 'water in my oil', cos as far as I'm concerned, it's irrelevant.
I have no 'mayonnaise' around my filler cap and I drop my oil every year regardless of mileage.

To suggest that I'm looking for brownie points on this thread too is utterly ridiculous. I modify, others modify and we all take from it what we want. If someone praises me for a good write up - then so be it, if they don't then I don't really give a ££££. Otherwise, what's the point of a project thread in the first place?

....and can you STOP keep pressing the bloody full stop key on your keyboard, when you mean to press the comma! It makes reading your posts even harder. :wink:

I am really pleased you find it hard to read my posts and i do intentionally press the stop key...it is my way............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............I am also glad that for once something has got under your skin as YOU undoubtedly get under a lot of others by the way you talk or treat them .....your not in the army now mate your a mere AA mechanic that only just about gets people home and then probably on the back of a truck......Lol

Why don`t you calm down with others threads and treat them like members instead of "i know better " attitude......then perhaps members may not pick on yourself!

You also cannot obviously read or understand my posts properly as you would not answer the way you do!



You can't have it all ways! Continually attacking what people do to their car more often than not, in a pretentious and condescending manner. Commonly quoting how a manufacturer spends millions developing xyz, and how could anyone know better? Yet on the other hand you have your car remapped by god knows who and choose to justify it, yet by your own logic, how could the pissy little garage that bunged their software on your car with their £300 laptop know better than Mercedes who undoubtedly spent millions developing the original tune?

I know you're supposed to respect your elders and all that but it works both ways mate. Let someone else have an opinion for once, especially one that is proven unlike your "theory" on the subject. And in this instance whilst you prove your knowledge on such matters to be vast (or at least to the untrained eye), you must concede that you are just wrong in this case of fitting a D5 oil cooler to a P2R (or varient)?!! Or are you just one of those narrow minded old duffers who can't stand to be told different by someone younger because "you're years make you far wiser and more knowledgeable". Eventually you have to move with the times!

Chris...it is no good throwing stones back as your mob all do remaps and you know why all car manufacturers use one map for all over the world......

Also i did NOT say that this conversion was wrong YOU chose to tell me that..........read properly and not answer back just for the sake of....

You have all turned this into something that it isn`t through pigheadedness or should we say "inner circle" again!

[LeeT5]

You can't have it all ways! Continually attacking what people do to their car more often than not, in a pretentious and condescending manner. Commonly quoting how a manufacturer spends millions developing xyz, and how could anyone know better? Yet on the other hand you have your car remapped by god knows who and choose to justify it, yet by your own logic, how could the pissy little garage that bunged their software on your car with their £300 laptop know better than Mercedes who undoubtedly spent millions developing the original tune?

I know you're supposed to respect your elders and all that but it works both ways mate. Let someone else have an opinion for once, especially one that is proven unlike your "theory" on the subject. And in this instance whilst you prove your knowledge on such matters to be vast (or at least to the untrained eye), you must concede that you are just wrong in this case of fitting a D5 oil cooler to a P2R (or varient)?!! Or are you just one of those narrow minded old duffers who can't stand to be told different by someone younger because "you're years make you far wiser and more knowledgeable". Eventually you have to move with the times!

:hilarious

[S70T5Chris]

I am really pleased you find it hard to read my posts and i do intentionally press the stop key...it is my way............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............I am also glad that for once something has got under your skin as YOU undoubtedly get under a lot of others by the way you talk or treat them .....your not in the army now mate your a mere AA mechanic that only just about gets people home and then probably on the back of a truck......Lol

Why don`t you calm down with others threads and treat them like members instead of "i know better " attitude......then perhaps members may not pick on yourself!

You also cannot obviously read or understand my posts properly as you would not answer the way you do!




Chris...it is no good throwing stones back as your mob all do remaps and you know why all car manufacturers use one map for all over the world......

My mob! LOL! You're certainly quite childish when you want to be, despite your years.

I'm not throwing stones at all. I don't disagree in one way with what you said about having a car remapped. My point, that you obviously missed, is your hypocritical attitude when challenging what modifications people do to their cars.

I see you completely ignored paragraph 2. I wonder why.

[S70T5Chris]

I am really pleased you find it hard to read my posts and i do intentionally press the stop key...it is my way............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............I am also glad that for once something has got under your skin as YOU undoubtedly get under a lot of others by the way you talk or treat them .....your not in the army now mate your a mere AA mechanic that only just about gets people home and then probably on the back of a truck......Lol

Why don`t you calm down with others threads and treat them like members instead of "i know better " attitude......then perhaps members may not pick on yourself!

You also cannot obviously read or understand my posts properly as you would not answer the way you do!




Chris...it is no good throwing stones back as your mob all do remaps and you know why all car manufacturers use one map for all over the world......

Also i did NOT say that this conversion was wrong YOU chose to tell me that..........read properly and not answer back just for the sake of....

You have all turned this into something that it isn`t through pigheadedness or should we say "inner circle" again!

Is that back peddling I sense?! LOL!

You have a real obsession with my inner circle...

[960kg]

My mob! LOL! You're certainly quite childish when you want to be, despite your years.

I'm not throwing stones at all. I don't disagree in one way with what you said about having a car remapped. My point, that you obviously missed, is your hypocritical attitude when challenging what modifications people do to their cars.

I see you completely ignored paragraph 2. I wonder why.

I did read of course para. 2 but i have no real comment as you think or treat others as you like but i treat others not as i want to be treated but as they treat me, and there is a big difference.....

I can be as childish as the next when i am jumped on a am being rude to.......i merely mentioned at the beginning of this saga that perhaps on a road car that it is not quite advantageous to bother to do it....but then i suppose an AA man on his day off misses motor`s...Lol

Well...at least it has kept a lot of members occupied on these lately cold damp days and they may be aware of who is actually who in terms of keyboard warriors....

[jamesy12345]

Lol well all this shouldn't be someone's project thread but it's better than watching Eastenders!

Nice one Keith for giving yr opinion straight up

[960kg]

Is that back peddling I sense?! LOL!

You have a real obsession with my inner circle...

If you and the others is what`s in the inner circle i am well pleased that i have a Mercedes and i am on the outer circle...

[960kg]

Lol well all this shouldn't be someone's project thread but it's better than watching Eastenders!

Nice one Keith for giving yr opinion straight up

James, it was only an opinion but it gets battered to death by those that don`t like others to intrude..........i can protect myself and other`s `til the end .....just look at how Lee treats James from Wales .........utterly disgusting and all those that thank Lee , so now he knows what it is like...Lol

[S70T5Chris]

James, it was only an opinion but it gets battered to death by those that don`t like others to intrude..........i can protect myself and other`s `til the end .....just look at how Lee treats James from Wales .........utterly disgusting and all those that thank Lee , so now he knows what it is like...Lol

So you're trolling?

http://www.tshirtdeli.com/assets/images/TSD01323.jpg

[960kg]

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I have one for you also.......

[Ettienne]

We'll that's another thread well and truly f@@ked up.