ETM Changing Session

[JamesT5]

I made the most of the good weather today, went out and fitted the replacement ETM. So here's some photos of the job with a few comments, please note the photos aren't as sharp as they normally are because I've used the stills shot facility on my camcorder, (batteries are flat on my Olympus).

First job is always to disconnect the battery, something I forgot to do and ended up with sparks half way through the job when my tool hit the red cable (ooops!) :doh:

Anyway first, I gave the replacement ETM a good old clean as it was totally caked in carbon and burnt fuel deposits...... :wow:

Before....

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0057_zps8a12fddd.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0057_zps8a12fddd.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0056_zpsa22eb0be.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0056_zpsa22eb0be.jpg.html)

After..... (much better!) :B_thumb: ;)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0058_zpsf83d5e35.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0058_zpsf83d5e35.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0059_zpse0fa2533.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0059_zpse0fa2533.jpg.html)

Removed the radiator fan, part of the boost pipe, the air intake hose and the Intercooler to ETM pipe, disconnecting the electrical connectors where necessary....

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0060_zpsf6f04b6f.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0060_zpsf6f04b6f.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0061_zps0dc12ff8.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0061_zps0dc12ff8.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0063_zps860ce694.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0063_zps860ce694.jpg.html)

(Intercooler to ETM pipe)...

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0078_zpsc076b004.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0078_zpsc076b004.jpg.html)

.................................

[JamesT5]

Now the ETM is ready to come off (4 x 10mm bolts)........

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0065_zps99acb97f.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0065_zps99acb97f.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0067_zps0b5b6666.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0067_zps0b5b6666.jpg.html)

The old ETM (for comparison straight after I took it off, looking much cleaner than the new one did!).....

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0069_zps58163185.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0069_zps58163185.jpg.html)

Photo showing the spot where the ETM fits to the Inlet Manifold, in the background is the new Alternator I fitted back in March....

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0074_zpse74a681e.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0074_zpse74a681e.jpg.html)

The two ETM's together in this first photo, and then the two photos below show the stickers on each one individually, the first shows the replacement unit, the last photo shows the old unit. The numbers are slightly different but it seems to have made no difference to the compatibility......

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0075_zps78af3064.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0075_zps78af3064.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0076_zpse3cfb32e.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0076_zpse3cfb32e.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0077_zps2e347055.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0077_zps2e347055.jpg.html)

[JamesT5]

Once it was all back together with the new unit installed (reverse of removal), a quick dust off and it runs like clockwork. ;) :B_thumb: :beer:

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0084_zps682d354f.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0084_zps682d354f.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0085_zps3e2af28d.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0085_zps3e2af28d.jpg.html)

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/PIC_0086_zpse7982c67.jpg (http://s1306.photobucket.com/user/_JamesT5/media/PIC_0086_zpse7982c67.jpg.html)

Whether the fault is fixed or the idle and throttle response issues are being caused by something else is yet to be seen. If I drive around for the next month and nothing crops up then it looks like I've sorted it, failing that I'll need to look at other possible causes. Fingers crossed though! 

The only complication I had was I managed to chew up the end of the Intercooler to ETM pipe where it connects to the ETM. As I tried to push the pipe back on it bent the edge of the pipe in a couple of places making it hard to fit back on but I managed it in the end. I think it's just been off so many times over the last year, the edge is starting to get a bit 'dog eared'.

[V70 Graham]

Well done James, hopefully that will cure one of your problems, be sure and let us know how you get on in the coming weeks.

[JamesT5]

Well done James, hopefully that will cure one of your problems, be sure and let us know how you get on in the coming weeks.

I will mate! I'm going to have to get the fuel sender changed asap for the spare I have sitting in a box here, because my fuel gauge has now stopped working and with so little fuel in the tank until pay day, every drive to work at the moment feels like a gamble. :D

[M-R-P]

Good work there mate. Hopefully, this one will last for the foreseeable :)

[JamesT5]

Good work there mate. Hopefully, this one will last for the foreseeable :)

I'm keeping the old one back for now in case the ETM isn't at fault and it's something else but with a P0121 DTC, I think it likely I'm on the money by changing the ETM.

[M-R-P]

The symptoms are classic marelli failure mate. I'd say you've done the right thing.

Thing is...

If the problem comes back, how will you know that it's not just the replacement ETM failing too?

[JamesT5]

The symptoms are classic marelli failure mate. I'd say you've done the right thing.

Thing is...

If the problem comes back, how will you know that it's not just the replacement ETM failing too?

The thought had crossed my mind, and to be honest, short of putting brand new parts on there really is no way to tell for certain. Bit of a gamble I know!

I imagine a new ETM from Volvo will be 4 figures, so it's better I think, that you take a gamble on a used unit and see how the car goes.

[JamesT5]

By the way, there was no recoding needed and the car just fired straight up when I reconnected the battery and turned the engine over. The car did idle a bit oddly to start with but after a couple of minutes it was absolutely fine. I think this was just the cars ECU relearning the parameters with the new ETM.

[silverhorse]

Well done James. Lets hope you have cracked it and you can now move on to the next thing that needs sorting!! Cleaned up nicely didn't it?

[jdavis]

well done James. cracking news that it was literrally a case of swap it then fire it up with no software changes required. gives me a little piece of mind if mine ever goes. touch wood it doesn't.
good photos too.

[JamesT5]

Well done James. Lets hope you have cracked it and you can now move on to the next thing that needs sorting!! Cleaned up nicely didn't it?

I've decided the gearbox job is going on hold until after I've tackled some of the smaller things and I've managed to shift the M56 and clutch I've got and banging my head against a brick wall trying to sell.

I've got an Aircon service next week (after pay day!) and I'm going to look in to whatever else I can do in the meantime that isn't going to break the bank and I can get sorted fairly pronto.

To answer your question, yes, it does clean up well but it's high maintenance and needs a regular coat of wax or it starts to look tired very quickly. I'm gagging to get the wheels re-powder coated or a good quality respray as they're in a shockingly bad state. But they'll have to wait until I have more finds and the bigger stuff is fixed. :B_thumb:

[JamesT5]

well done James. cracking news that it was literrally a case of swap it then fire it up with no software changes required. gives me a little piece of mind if mine ever goes. touch wood it doesn't.
good photos too.

Yeah, an exact like for like swap (i.e. same engine and model year) should make it simple enough. Just watch it because a lot of the ETM's for sale are from 2.4 petrol engines or non turbo engines meaning they may not be compatible.

[hillsidesteve]

Good news that the change has solved your idling issues James. When I took my ETM off recently expecting it to be all dirty I was surprised to find it was really clean. I'm guessing that it may have therefore been done not long before I bought the car. So I made the quick decision to send it to the Voltronics guy for the contactless conversion that was just before the last BH weekend. Got it back Saturday but only managed to fit it this morning , like yours it started straight away and now idles as it should. Wonderful after over 18 months of up 'n down! As a matter of interest I did manage to do it without taking the rad fan off worst bit was I kept dropping the bloody bolts when trying to get them back in!
Now, what to do next.....

[JamesT5]

Good news that the change has solved your idling issues James. When I took my ETM off recently expecting it to be all dirty I was surprised to find it was really clean. I'm guessing that it may have therefore been done not long before I bought the car. So I made the quick decision to send it to the Voltronics guy for the contactless conversion that was just before the last BH weekend. Got it back Saturday but only managed to fit it this morning , like yours it started straight away and now idles as it should. Wonderful after over 18 months of up 'n down! As a matter of interest I did manage to do it without taking the rad fan off worst bit was I kept dropping the bloody bolts when trying to get them back in!
Now, what to do next.....

I've only had erratic idle twice from this problem but the car always felt 'lumpy'. Today, I took it out and gave it some welly (just a bit as petrol is short), and also around town at slower speeds and the car feels smoother than before. Perhaps it's psychological or perhaps I'm feeling the difference. But the power delivery is smoother and even the other half says she can feel the difference, the car doesn't jerk around so much as I come off the throttle to change gear.

I really need to give it a run around for a month to get a better idea as to whether the replacement ETM has in fact improved performance but early signs look good. I really hope I don't have to turn around in a few days and take that comment back, only time will tell. :B_thumb:

[Plodmonkey]

Going to do this to my v70 on thursday but was just going to give it a clean as its the marelli unit but have a bosh to go on as ive heard the bosh needs to be coded to the car by volvo or can you do it by leaving the ignition on for a while for ecu to calibrate

[M-R-P]

I'd like to see it tried but be prepared to have to wheel it to a stealer mate.

[JamesT5]

Going to do this to my v70 on thursday but was just going to give it a clean as its the marelli unit but have a bosh to go on as ive heard the bosh needs to be coded to the car by volvo or can you do it by leaving the ignition on for a while for ecu to calibrate

You will find that when you turn it over the car does idle erratically for a couple of minutes but then sorts itself out. If you have a Bosch unit then I'll be interested to hear if you can just fit it on and let the car, leave the ignition on for a while and then fire it up. Please let us know because that will answer the question for sure, my money is on it sorting itself out without the need for a main stealer but I wasn't prepared to take that gamble myself.

Keep us updated mate!

[M-R-P]

Thing is - The Bosch unit auto calibrates itself - you can hear the butterfly fidgeting about with the ignition on and the engine off. It does it for a while. If the Marelli one doesn't do this, I can see why they're not compatible (supposedly). It'll be interesting to see what happens.

[Leeds_finest]

Glad you sorted the problem mate.

My throttle body was repaired yesterday and is on it's way back to me.

Directions on rad fan removal please?

[M-R-P]

The top of the fan cowling has a screw at each corner (t25 torx iirc). Just undo the screws and disconnect the fan plug and lift it out :)

Easy.

[JamesT5]

Glad you sorted the problem mate.

My throttle body was repaired yesterday and is on it's way back to me.

Directions on rad fan removal please?

Easy mate, firstly though remove the rubber boost pipe on the drivers side from the plastic boost pipe that runs over the top of the engine, this will enable you to slide the radiator out more easily, you'll probably need a 7mm socket for this.

NThen, there's 1 x 10mm bolt on each side at the top of the radiator fan so take those out. Undo the 2 x Torx 25 screws on the passenger side of the radiator housing to release the electrical connector/junction screwed on to the radiator fan housing.

Then there's a large chunky connector near the top of the radiator housing and a couple of smaller ones too down near the drivers side.

Then gently slide the radiator upwards, if you've missed any electrical connectors it will become obvious when you try and taker the radiator fan out.

[Leeds_finest]

Ok great thanks a lot both.

Ed :)

[Plodmonkey]

here is a really good video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obUAQNwQERI

[JamesT5]

I'm impressed with the smoother power delivery having driven the car for the last couple of days, no idle issues either and to be honest the car just feels like it has a little more 'get up and go' and feels 'smoother', not like it's struggling for air or power quite as much. I imagine once the gearbox gets done it will feel even better again, especially once I've finished sorting the handling out.

Anyway, next week after pay day when I can more afford to waste £10 petrol revving the §§§§§§§§ off the thing, I'll do a video of the car on a bit of a run (like we do on here, right?). ;)

[Leeds_finest]

Sounds good mate, for added noise remove passenger side footwell carpet (haha joke, but seriously, sounds great) :)

[JamesT5]

True to fashion the idle issue and rough running has comer back tonight (something said the other day about swallowing my words "in a few days"). :mad111: :doh:

Anyway, plugged in the code reader, not DTC's but the car is running rough and the boost is abruptly cutting out at around 4000 - 600 RPM. So, I had a theory, went out and gently wiggled the MAF sensor and managed to get the engine to stall!

Although there's no MAF fault stored, my money is on the MAF being faulty now as well. There is a chance that I've changed a perfectly fine ETM for another perfectly fine ETM, also that I've changed a duff ETM for another duff ETM but there is no DTC's as already mentioned.

But when I gently wiggled the MAF sensor it did misfire and then stall so I'm inclined to get a second hand MAF after I get paid on Monday and fit it.

One other thought, my fuel gauge is beginning to fail completely meaning that the fuel sender is not sending the correct signal to the gauge. Seeing the fuel sender unit also carries across the wiring to the fuel pump there is a chance that the signal to the fuel pump to pump fuel is also at fault and is causing a fuel flow issue.

Personally, with the symptoms on the car today, my money is on a faulty MAF sensor.

What an epic PITA! :wallbash:

[oblark]

I`d push it into the middle of a field and torch it.

[JamesT5]

I`d push it into the middle of a field and torch it.


Errr, no.

[JamesT5]

£30 - £35 for a new MAF with a 12 month warranty on Fleabay, worth paying just to rule out a MAF problem if nothing else!

[graemewelch]

dont buy one of those cheap and nasty ones james. its good money down the drain.

[silverhorse]

I think if you unplug the MAF, the car should run to a pre-programmed set of paramaters and go relatively OK. It will over-compensate on fuelling so you will get bad mpg, but it should go. I don't know if a faulty MAF will cause the car to stall when wiggled....?
Anyway, get it out and clean it. CAREFULLY!! Also clean the contacts in the plug. They can oxidise.
But a faulty MAF will 100% throw a code.
Bloody hell James. I hope this is not the start of another new and exciting problem for you!

Also, what Graeme said above

[M-R-P]

My money's on the wiring to the maf. Check the wires to the plug and as said, give it all a good clean.

It owes you too much to torch it... what's it insured for?

[jamesy12345]

This flow chart might help, even if just to give you a bit of reassurance that you have sorted it:

http://www.xemodex.com/technologyimproved/ETM%20Diagnostic%20Flow%20Chart.pdf

[Fubar1977]

I`d agree with avoiding a cheap MAF.
I got so fed up §§§§ing about with mine in the end I just bought a genuine one from the main stealers.
Initially they quoted me £405 for it but I have a mate in the parts dept who agreed to do it for £270. (He showed me on his screen, that`s basically cost price to them plus VAT.
Still a load of money but it solved the problem.
I imagine you can buy it cheaper direct from Bosch but I wanted to be sure it would just be a straight swap.
I figure I`m in SO deep now I may as well do it properly.

Basically, I`m paying for the last owners lack of maintenance, looked after properly they are reliable but neglected they quickly become a ruinous money pit.
She`ll get there mate, eventually. Keep calm and carry on lol.

[JamesT5]

I was spot on with my diagnosis.... Tonight I started the car up at work and the car started really surging and was on the verge of stalling completely. I also got the emissions warning light on for the first time, so I plugged in the code reader and voilà, guess what showed up.....

"P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Low Input"........ translated the car is saying "Your Mass Air Flow Meter is knackered!"

Also though, guess what else showed up on 'page 2' of the fault codes that incidentally wasn't there after I changed the ETM, in fact wasn't even there yesterday.....

"P0121 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance"

For me to exchange 1 bad ETM for another bad ETM and have a MAF problem would be the ultimate piece of poor luck. Somehow, I think the Air Flow issue is causing the Throttle Position Sensor code, meaning I may in fact have changed an ETM for absolutely nothing!

I take note of the advice re: the cheaper MAF sensors, but they do come with a 12 month warranty and might be ok as a stop-gap measure. PFV sell them for around £170 but at £405 (re: Furbar1977's comments), this is just typical of Main Stealer, I thought on my way home they'd want £450 for a diagnostic, the part and probably a whole hours labour to fit it. Looks like my estimate was a bit conservative, not that I've even contemplated using a Stealer for this job, it's definitely something I can do myself.

[JamesT5]

I think if you unplug the MAF, the car should run to a pre-programmed set of paramaters and go relatively OK. It will over-compensate on fuelling so you will get bad mpg, but it should go. I don't know if a faulty MAF will cause the car to stall when wiggled....?
Anyway, get it out and clean it. CAREFULLY!! Also clean the contacts in the plug. They can oxidise.
But a faulty MAF will 100% throw a code.
Bloody hell James. I hope this is not the start of another new and exciting problem for you!

Also, what Graeme said above

Yes, I did have the thought on the way home tonight because years ago I had a Skoda Octavia with a MAF problem and I remember being told at the time that disconnecting the MAF plug will make the car go in to a 'default' mode, a bit like your computer running in safe mode. The downsides are poorer performance and as you have already mentioned, an increase in fuel consumption.

[Leeds_finest]

No need for these prices when buying a MAF...

GSF sell the genuine article for about £150-200 (obviously not in Volvo packaging) but it should be the original/Bosch unit or whoever makes it from new!

I know for a fact Euro Car Parts don't stock a lambda other than Bosch for my T5 - I asked if there was a cheaper alternative and they said no only OE quality around £90 I believe.

[Leeds_finest]

Just found the quote out:

£154.00 plus VAT which by my calculations makes it £184.80 ????

GSF part number 187 vo 0030. The part number may also be V18790 the quote sheet is a little mis leading?


Ed

[JamesT5]

Thought I'd do some trouble shooting this morning, so I was out waxing the car and suddenly had a hankering to take off the replacment ETM and put my old one back on. So I did just that whilst I was waiting for the wax to cure (only took me 90 minutes this time!).

Oddly when I read the codes after I put my old ETM back on I only got the error for the MAF not the ETM but I had a P0121 Throttle Position Sensor code come up as well as the MAF code with the replacement ETM on the car so it look like I'll be asking the seller for a refund or replacement on the ETM they just sold me (it's probably faulty).

Then I tried Pauls suggestion of driving with the MAF unplugged. Yikes, it really didn't like this, it stalled on me 5 times between my place and the supermarket less than a mile and a half away. So when I arrived there, I popped the bonnet, plugged the MAF back in and it seemed much better.

No doubt on my way to work tonight it will start having a hissy fit again but it's been a good bit of fault finding today, and I even managed to Detail the outside of the car before lunch. :B_thumb: ;)

Anyway, I'm going to order a new MAF tomorrow and fit it this coming week. I bet you any money it sorts the problem out!

[Harvey]

James I think if anyone ever came on the forum ,that was looking at a V70 ,I think that as far as they would get just look and run the other way.

Just can't fault you for your efforts to fix it.

[silverhorse]

Anyway, I'm going to order a new MAF tomorrow and fit it this coming week. I bet you any money it sorts the problem out!

If I were a betting man, I would take your wager!!!

[graemewelch]

how much are you willing to invest befor somthing gose wrong that you cant afford to fix. it would annoy the hell out of me if my car wasnt right and waxing it would be the last of my worries.

[JamesT5]

how much are you willing to invest befor somthing gose wrong that you cant afford to fix. it would annoy the hell out of me if my car wasnt right and waxing it would be the last of my worries.

I shouldn't neglect the cosmetics just because I have a dodgy MAF.......

Graeme, I appreciate in your view you're trying to help, but I'd rather you offer technical advice and solutions to fix the problem as opposed to criticism of the when I choose to wax my car or pessimisitc comments that don't actually achieve anything. Thank you.

[JamesT5]

James I think if anyone ever came on the forum ,that was looking at a V70 ,I think that as far as they would get just look and run the other way.

Just can't fault you for your efforts to fix it.

I see this as a learning experience and at times, I find it quite satisfying being able to fix my own car on the drive at home (with some advice from people here of course). :B_thumb:

[jdavis]

James, I'm sure you've probably checked and double checked this but it sounds to me like you have an air leak.
My P1 V70 T% ME7 was throwing similar problems to what you are having, i suspected a faulty MAF sensor and IIRC codes showed a faulty MAF sensor. Purchased a replacement MAF sensor and while fitting i noticed a small vacuum hose off on the intake pipe just before the turbo inlet housing, i only noticed it because i dropped the jubilee clip for the MAF sensor down the inlet pipe. What appeared to have caused it was the old top engine mount being knackered and rocking of the engine pulled it out.
Good luck. Definately sounds like the ETM is dudd though

[jamesy12345]

Wax on, wax off!

Did you see the flowchart thing I posted? It said for certain combinations of fault codes it could actually be the engine management relay...just a thought. Vacuum lines is a good thought also

[JamesT5]

James, I'm sure you've probably checked and double checked this but it sounds to me like you have an air leak.
My P1 V70 T% ME7 was throwing similar problems to what you are having, i suspected a faulty MAF sensor and IIRC codes showed a faulty MAF sensor. Purchased a replacement MAF sensor and while fitting i noticed a small vacuum hose off on the intake pipe just before the turbo inlet housing, i only noticed it because i dropped the jubilee clip for the MAF sensor down the inlet pipe. What appeared to have caused it was the old top engine mount being knackered and rocking of the engine pulled it out.
Good luck. Definately sounds like the ETM is dudd though

Thanks mate, I'll take a look although I didn't notice any obvious leaks when I was moving stuff about under the bonnet. I'm thinking of buying a cheapex MAF (I know the advice is not to), I'd rather not splash out the best part of £200 to find the MAF is ok and it is something like an Air Leak. I can however, live with spending £30 instead, especially as the parts come with a 12 month warranty.

The last couple of days I've had no issues at all other than a slightly lumpy throttle response from my original ETM.

[JamesT5]

Wax on, wax off!

Did you see the flowchart thing I posted? It said for certain combinations of fault codes it could actually be the engine management relay...just a thought. Vacuum lines is a good thought also

If I'm honest with you I haven't looked at your flow chart but I will. Thanks for the input. :B_thumb:

[silverhorse]

TI'd rather not splash out the best part of £200 to find the MAF is ok and it is something like an Air Leak. I can however, live with spending £30 instead, especially as the parts come with a 12 month warranty.

Just buy the Bosch MAF for £200, if that does not cure your problem, I will buy it off you for £50, cos I need one at some point!!!!

[JamesT5]

Just buy the Bosch MAF for £200, if that does not cure your problem, I will buy it off you for £50, cos I need one at some point!!!!

£250 and we've got a deal.... ;)

[webbogsy]

hi james where did you buy your replacment ETM mine has the same fault and did you have to re code the new one many thanks Tim

[JamesT5]

hi james where did you buy your replacment ETM mine has the same fault and did you have to re code the new one many thanks Tim

Got mine off ebay although I think the new unit may have a fault but I can't be sure. It didn't need recoding (see my earlier comment), you may just find the engine starts 'hunting' for a while then it will sort itself out (unless the unit is faulty).

[V70 Graham]

Have you been paid yet James.....that SAMPLE is getting on my wick :o

[JamesT5]

Have you been paid yet James.....that SAMPLE is getting on my wick :o

LMAO, I really should get it changed. I'll change it Graham, this afternoon. ;)

[JamesT5]

Sig-Generator is not up and running, it just says "back soon". :(

[JamesT5]

I sent the replacement ETM back today as I believe it was faulty hence the P0121 code which oddly hasn't appeared again since I stuck my old unit back on.......
:wtf:

Anyway, the guy initially refused to refund or replace it, but then I introduced him to the 1979 Sales of Goods Act! I reminded him of the fact that under the SoGA, goods must be of satisfactory quality and suitable for the purpose for which they were intended (i.e. not faulty). Not surprisingly I was then swiftly offered an exchange. Ahhh, magic! :beer: ;)

I should get a replacement within a week or so, then I'll fit that and see where I go from there. :B_thumb:

[silverhorse]

I should get a replacement within a week or so, then I'll fit that and see where I go from there. :B_thumb:

Did you put a small hidden mark on it so you don't get the same one back again?

[JamesT5]

Did you put a small hidden mark on it so you don't get the same one back again?z

Yes I did Paul, I won't say what or where but not only did I take a photo of the sticker on the front showing all the unique bar code numbers, I have put some crafty but non defacing marker points in a discreet area and also noted some that were already on there. I don't trust anybody until they prove they can be trusted, especially when it comes to car stuff. :B_thumb:

[JamesT5]

By the way, the inner steering links didn't sort the rattle out, the rattle is just as bad. I'm going to investigate drop links next even though I've changed them and if they're found to be chewed up I'll take them back to the factors for a prompt refund and buy some IPD Uprated ones from PFV. If that doesn't do it then I give up, the car will have to rattle for ever!

[JamesT5]

The ebay seller I brought the ETM off is now playing up and refusing to exchange the unit that I sent back to him and also refusing a refund. I've escalated it to ebay and started an item dispute because the guy is claiming I sent back my old original ETM which I didn't because it's on my car! I also got photographic evidence of both ETM's so I know which one is which as well.

I've told him that ultimately I'll be taking him to the small claims court to get back the money including the return postage costs unless we can resolve it. In the meantime, I don't have a replacement ETM and I'm over £70 out of pocket. Thankfully, I paid via Paypal so I'm covered and the guy is talking complete rubbish in his replies to me. He's tried making out the cables are a different shape on mine to the unit he sent me which I said won't be the case plus how would he know that given he's never actually seen my ETM because he has his unit he sold me, back.

He states he security marked the ETM, so I asked him how it was security marked and what he used to security mark it and I haven't had an answer back on that, only the words "I'll check it again", in other words he's pretending he's missed his non existent security markings.

Basically, he's trying it on because he doesn't want to refund me the money or hasn't got an exchange unit to send me. I will win this case and either get my money back or he will be forced to replace the unit with a different one. I will be checking the unit if he does to make sure it's different. Personally, right now I don't trust him and I just want my money back, I'll buy one from a different supplier.

[V70 Graham]

I get fed up of people on eBay messing around these days, thankfully Paypal and eBay seem to be good at sorting this kind of thing out, hopefully it wont take too long.

[graemewelch]

The ebay seller I brought the ETM off is now playing up and refusing to exchange the unit that I sent back to him and also refusing a refund. I've escalated it to ebay and started an item dispute because the guy is claiming I sent back my old original ETM which I didn't because it's on my car! I also got photographic evidence of both ETM's so I know which one is which as well.

I've told him that ultimately I'll be taking him to the small claims court to get back the money including the return postage costs unless we can resolve it. In the meantime, I don't have a replacement ETM and I'm over £70 out of pocket. Thankfully, I paid via Paypal so I'm covered and the guy is talking complete rubbish in his replies to me. He's tried making out the cables are a different shape on mine to the unit he sent me which I said won't be the case plus how would he know that given he's never actually seen my ETM because he has his unit he sold me, back.

He states he security marked the ETM, so I asked him how it was security marked and what he used to security mark it and I haven't had an answer back on that, only the words "I'll check it again", in other words he's pretending he's missed his non existent security markings.

Basically, he's trying it on because he doesn't want to refund me the money or hasn't got an exchange unit to send me. I will win this case and either get my money back or he will be forced to replace the unit with a different one. I will be checking the unit if he does to make sure it's different. Personally, right now I don't trust him and I just want my money back, I'll buy one from a different supplier.

this proves my point exactly. its easier to get the car diagnosed correctly rather than messing about. probobly work out cheaper to.

[JamesT5]

this proves my point exactly. its easier to get the car diagnosed correctly rather than messing about. probobly work out cheaper to.

Graeme, you must have an addiction to VIDA/DICE! The ETM I brought is faulty, end of. I'm taking the case up with ebay and I will win. I'll buy another ETM and bolt it on rather than pay for an overpriced diagnostic session.

[JamesT5]

The ebay seller I brought the ETM off is now playing up and refusing to exchange the unit that I sent back to him and also refusing a refund. I've escalated it to ebay and started an item dispute because the guy is claiming I sent back my old original ETM which I didn't because it's on my car! I also got photographic evidence of both ETM's so I know which one is which as well.

I've told him that ultimately I'll be taking him to the small claims court to get back the money including the return postage costs unless we can resolve it. In the meantime, I don't have a replacement ETM and I'm over £70 out of pocket. Thankfully, I paid via Paypal so I'm covered and the guy is talking complete rubbish in his replies to me. He's tried making out the cables are a different shape on mine to the unit he sent me which I said won't be the case plus how would he know that given he's never actually seen my ETM because he has his unit he sold me, back.

He states he security marked the ETM, so I asked him how it was security marked and what he used to security mark it and I haven't had an answer back on that, only the words "I'll check it again", in other words he's pretending he's missed his non existent security markings.

Basically, he's trying it on because he doesn't want to refund me the money or hasn't got an exchange unit to send me. I will win this case and either get my money back or he will be forced to replace the unit with a different one. I will be checking the unit if he does to make sure it's different. Personally, right now I don't trust him and I just want my money back, I'll buy one from a different supplier.

Sticking to my guns like I always do has paid off, ebay have awarded me with a full refund and rightly so! The seller was messing me around and I had him by the bo***cks! :beer: :B_thumb:

[T5REU]

Did u sort the problem out in the end mate?

[JamesT5]

Sorted the refund yes, ebay over-ruled him and gave me my money back.

[deathrider311271]

James, i have sent you a pm regarding the ETM, i must ask tho where are you getting your info for the "P" codes??? wherever you are getting it from its giving you the wrong info, however if its from the generic reader your using, its exactly that generic not specific.

For example P0121 you say its a MAF fault, the correct meaning for that code is: P0121 MIL requested by the throttle unit Faulty signal. which too me means either faulty wiring between the ETM/ECU/Throttle pedal or internal fault on the ETM itself.

As for MAF code, they dont throw one up, its exactly the same system as the P1 V70 ME7 system. If you require any help at all with this system mail me here and i will get back too you, i have a full list off "P" codes and what they mean on both P1 and P2 ME7 systems

[silverhorse]

Get VIDA

[jdavis]

James, have you tried a replacement throttle pedal?

[jdavis]

Spot on guide James. Done this today on mine. Took some pictures which tbh are crap. Also on mime the intercooler to etm pipe had a hose going from that, to a t valve and to the inlet manifold. Had crimped clamps on it so just left it in place and worked round it. My etm was filthy, and has no yellow label :help: all refitted and ticked over lovely afterwards.
Here's the pics
http://s.photobucket.com/user/jdfiesta/library/etm%20clean

[JamesT5]

Spot on guide James. Done this today on mine. Took some pictures which tbh are crap. Also on mime the intercooler to etm pipe had a hose going from that, to a t valve and to the inlet manifold. Had crimped clamps on it so just left it in place and worked round it. My etm was filthy, and has no yellow label :help: all refitted and ticked over lovely afterwards.
Here's the pics
http://s.photobucket.com/user/jdfiesta/library/etm%20clean

Thread revival - I love it.:D

I'm glad you found the thread useful John, once you've done it once it's so easy the next time. Have you noticed a difference in performance at all and does your car run any smoother under the hood?

[jdavis]

Thread revival - I love it.:D

I'm glad you found the thread useful John, once you've done it once it's so easy the next time. Have you noticed a difference in performance at all and does your car run any smoother under the hood?
Haven't driven it yet but will report back tomorrow. Hopefully it will be good lol.

[LeeT5]

Glad you sorted the problem mate.

My throttle body was repaired yesterday and is on it's way back to me.

Directions on rad fan removal please?

It can be removed without removing the fan. Bit tight on space but is very doable. I cleaned mine up three weeks ago ok.

[jdavis]

To be honest I wouldn't like to try it without removing the fan, it's not like its hard to do and the benefits in space to work are well worth it.

[JamesT5]

Removing the fan is best, it takes 5 - 10 minutes which is less time than it takes to mess around trying to work around it. I always take the fan out, it's not worth the hassle of leaving it in for so little effort to remove it.

[jdavis]

Well the report is...
Wow! 100% improvement in driveability. I cleaned MAF and boost sensor as well so they will have helped but it's really improved.

[JamesT5]

Well the report is...
Wow! 100% improvement in driveability. I cleaned MAF and boost sensor as well so they will have helped but it's really improved.

Nice one John, the end result is what counts so top job! :B_thumb: