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View Full Version : Rust removal and refinishing on the cheap



no1tosh
Monday 8th April 2013, 22:38
Hi right ive been asked a few times about how to go about treating/ removing rust and what to do after to make it look like new.
so here we go, first of rust is metal cancer it never completlly goes away!!!!
The more time you spend cleaning the metal the longer it will last, take your time don't rush and do it properly.

THE TOOLS:
drill
rubber sanding block
wire wheel ( drill mouted)
wire brush
paint stripping wheel ( the these from B&Q red in colour and soft compaired to the hard black ones
ALL SAND PAPER CAN BE BOUGHT BY THE SHEET.
80 grit sand paper
180 sand paper
320 sand paper
800 wet and dry
2000 wet and dry
grey scotchbrite pads
1" masking tape
2" masking tape
good dusk masks 3M
3M disposable paint mask about £13 blue in colour.
saftey googles/glasses
MATERIALS:

fibreglass
filler
aerosol etch primer
aerosol high build primer
aerosol base coat colour
aerosol clear coat ( 2 pack is available, but please dont use unless you have a very good mask and a huge amount of ventalation, most painters wont touch this unless they have an airfed mask, so to be safe use the best quality single pack clear coat)
polishing compound frecila g3 is good and cheap.
pannel wipe (degreaser)


The boring bit, when sanding filler and especially firbeglass wear you dusk mask and make sure it has a tigh fit around you face, and thsame goes when using and paint or primer. The etch primer contains acid and you will know about it if you dont wear your paint mask.
Unlike me if you care about your hands then get some nitrail/ thick latex gloves when mixxing and aplying you fibre glass/ filler, and while painting.

Right first job is get some form of scrapper and scrape off any loose paint i advise you put on your saftey spec's, because it will hurt if yo get shards of paint or rust in your eyes.
Once you have all the loose matiral off get out your drill and attach the wire wheel and start on a slow speed, as if this grabs it will fly off the pannel and potentially damage another pannel. Remember your goggles as bits of the wire will fly off as your working. do this where there is any rust or corrosion and work in diffrent directions so the wheel gets in all the the little pits.

When all the little pits look clean and shinny its time to change to the paint stripping wheel which will help clean the metal ferther and go say half an inch past where you have used the wire wheel.
Once your happy that you have cleaned it the best you can, we can move on to the next stage.

Now if you just have tiny pits in the metal then you can skip this bit, but if you have proper holes or has been exsesivly eaten away then you need to put some fibre glass in first.
So split you 80 grit paper in to quaters and use a quater to key the metal and to feather the paint edge out abit.
next get some of you pannel wipe on a clean rag and give whole area a really good clean and use another clean rag to wipe away the resedue.

Mix your fibreglass as per the instructions and apply, make sure you try to push the glass in to the holes and or damage.
Allow to dry properly, get your dust mask on. Get a quater of you 80 sandpaper and wrap it round your block and start sanding, keep running your hand over the repair to feel it and make sure it is level. once this has been achived you are ready for filler.

The filler proccess is the same as the glass except done pannel wipe the fibre glass or filler as it will soak in, but get rid of the all of the dust.

Apply the filler, the nicer you put it on the easyer the sanding will be. Again start your sanding with 80's and get your basic shape, if you sand to much out you can always go back and put more in.
Once you have your basic shape change your paper to 180's and sand out all of the 80's marks, and then change to 320's and remove the 180's marks.
get some of you grey scotch and dull 6" around the repair area and remove all of the dust, give it a clean with pannel wipe and try to keep it off the filler.
Next mask off the area using back masking which means fold your masking tape in half lenght ways and stick on the edge of the dull area with the folded side facing the repair. This gives a soft edge to any paint or primer which lands near it.
Always over mask, use the brown masking paper you can get from the bodyshop/paint suppliers where you got the rest of your stuff. If you cant get any then news paper will do but be careful of the little holes.

follow the instuructions on the cans shake well and all that, your going to use etch primer first which will help protect any exposed metala dn bites in to the repair for good addhision you only need one good coat of this. REMEMBER PAINT MASK!!!!!
before you start to spray make sure the area you are working in is warm and well ventalated and also as clean as you can get it.

once you have put you etch primer on leave for a few hours to dry then put 1 grip coat and then 3 good coats of normal high build primer on.
try not to go to the masking edges as this will create a hard edge which can cause problems later on.
Allow this to dry for at least 24 hour but the longer the better. Once it has dryed before you unmask get some black paint as dust a light coat on the primer to act as a guide coat.

i shall put up the second half hopfuly tommorow night, weve got alot in this week at work so ill try to work it in haha!

I hope this helps you all out and any questions feel free

Nifton
Monday 8th April 2013, 23:03
You ever used kurust or that other one that strips rather than converts (name escapes me)? I like to use a coat or two of that in hard to reach nooks or thin panels where the rust has crept out of sight just to make sure. I made a nasty mistake with kurust on stone chips, when you flat back your repair they All have thin Black lines around the fresh paint :( great advice Cheers!

JamesT5
Monday 8th April 2013, 23:06
I'm glad you did this thread, I needed a refresher as I'm a bit rusty...... ;)

Nifton
Monday 8th April 2013, 23:12
You and your corrosive jokes. ...