Alternator Failure (the story)

[JamesT5]

Well here I am again with another failure, something I'm not sure whether I should laugh or cry about because the story involved a Police Traffic car (yes another V70), a Tow Truck and an expensive bill......

This morning I was driving to work and about 3/4 of the way through my journey the car power died off, followed by a surge and a warning message on the dash, "Over charge". Then my DIM went really bright for about 2 seconds (and I mean mega bright), before one of my front headlamp bulbs blew and then another message on the dash telling me my battery power was low. At this point, the DIM was in fact just that, 'dim', and I had a message basically advising me to pull over along with the red 'battery' light. To cut this part of the story short, I managed to get to work and park up, replacing my blown light bulb during my break.

Coming home, I got in to my car and it started up and it fired up although the low battery voltage message was still present. I set off from work and got about half way home when suddenly the air bag warning light came on, then the revs became erratic and the car ground to a halt like all the life had been sucked from it. I came to a grinding halt, thankfully on a straight but 'fast' bit of road.

Now, I'm not going to waste time telling you about all the nitty gritty details but suffice to say that the RAC came out for me and it set me back £141 as my membership was cancelled a few months back (another story), and I had to pay a years membership up front to get it up and running again. They organised someone to come out and tow me however, unbeknown to myself, a passing motorist had also phoned the Police to say that I had broken down and so a traffic car was dispatched and sent to investigate. So the Police turn up (much to my relief in some ways), and what was even better was the traffic car was a Phase 3 D5 model. :D Me being me, I couldn't resist a chat about the car whilst I sat in the front passenger seat, awaiting the tow truck to arrive (I'll leave the details of the chat for another time).

Anyway, eventually the tow truck arrived and towed my very poorly car home which is now safely on my driveway. I think what has happened is the alternator has failed and the battery stopped charging completely, then once all the juice had gone from the battery there was nothing to power the fuel pump, and anything else in the car that needed electricity so the car just died. The over charge was probably the alternator failing and then it basically burned itself out within seconds, and the extra power caused the lights to surge and one of the fron bulbs to blow.

Looks like I'm going to have to fork out £109.50 (ebay price) for a new/recon alternator and fit it before my car will be up and running again. The only other alternative for short hops in to town (2 - 3 mile round trip), is to charge the battery overnight and then keep charging it everytime I need to use the car. As for getting to work, this is my daily runner so I may have to borrow a car from my parents. The MOT is booked for Wednesday but it seems a bit pointless taking it for the MOT when I've got this problem as I may not be able to get it back home!

Regards

James

[stribo]

Mate, your car really seems to hate you at the moment, you must have been a very bad man in a previous life. I hope you can get it sorted soon.

[V70 Graham]

Sorry to hear your latest problems James, you really aren't having a lot of luck at the minute, hopefully one day soon you will be able to laugh about it all.....or at least smile.

[volvokid]

109 is cheap for an alternator. Mine just failed on the V40 and cost a hell of a lot more. Be grateful you only have one volvo to try and maintain
:)

[JamesT5]

Mate, your car really seems to hate you at the moment, you must have been a very bad man in a previous life. I hope you can get it sorted soon.

Most people on here would have scrapped the thing by now or sold it for peanuts as a 'spares or repair'. I think I should get an award from Santa for winning 1st place in the competition for the most problematic daily runner V70 on VPCUK. ;)

I also need an award for bravery and another for persistence. Unfortunately I'm in a financial 'bind' at the moment with this car, it owes me too much to shift it, no one will want it if I try and I don't have the money to replace it. Therefore, I've got to put up with it and get it fixed which is exactly what I intend to do, even it means having a go at fixing a new alternator on by myself.

I think the PAS pump has to come off to do the job which is going to be a real pain the §§§§ and I'll also have to remove the fan belt and get it all back on properly. I may have to invest in the Haynes Book of Bo****ks! ;)

[JamesT5]

Sorry to hear your latest problems James, you really aren't having a lot of luck at the minute, hopefully one day soon you will be able to laugh about it all.....or at least smile.

Yes, let's hope so because it doesn't half pick it's moments to break down, right when I've got to get the thing taxed and MOT'd!

[JamesT5]

109 is cheap for an alternator. Mine just failed on the V40 and cost a hell of a lot more. Be grateful you only have one volvo to try and maintain
:)

I was hoping to get one from a scrappy for around £30 but looks like I was way off the mark.

[merc85]

£109 is certainly cheap,

[volvokid]

I was hoping to get one from a scrappy for around £30 but looks like I was way off the mark.

I know everyone is in different situations but I dont think I would fit a second hand part like that, get it on the credit card lol. Look what happened to you today. That might pack in not long after you have grafted fitting it.

[volvokid]

£109 is certainly cheap,

I was almost 200 for a non genuine one for the V40

[JamesT5]

I know everyone is in different situations but I dont think I would fit a second hand part like that, get it on the credit card lol. Look what happened to you today. That might pack in not long after you have grafted fitting it.

Nice suggestion but I don't have a credit card, I can't have one as I was naughty with them a few years back. ;) No, what I'll do is just get one and borrow some money from the other half when she gets paid. :D

[JamesT5]

For reference purposes......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70-II-2-3-TURBO-T5-PETROL-BRAND-NEW-ALTERNATOR-FROM-00-TDP-/190667612718?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c64ace22e

[stevmo]

I know the feeling but luckily my previous car that was doing this to me still has value so I can sell it but I'm in to a massive loss.
2001 Y reg E39 BMW 530d SE Auto Touring (facelift) with all the toys (xenons, comfort seats, electric steering column, upgrade stereo, bigger wheels etc)
I bought it in July 2012 for £2000
£300 on inspection II service (regrettable decision)
£1740 on gearbox rebuild
£180 on decat (flexis blew and only replaceable as the entire cat - stainless decat was cheaper option)
£40 on IM gaskets (they were leaking)
£30 on IM swirl flap blank plates (to stop it destroying the engine)

And there have been suspension components, trim pieces, stereo packed in and it was a choice - replace OE CD player for £300 (second hand) or use radio I had and get fascia and wiring adaptors for £50 but not be able to reset trip computer.

I needed both rear tyres doing having done 10k in it and while talking to the tyre fitters mentioned that I didnt like the fronts but they have plenty of tread so will have to do. they asked what they were and I told them Sunteks. Asked me to turn wheel full lock (I hadnt brought car in yet to go on ramp) and both front tyres had bulged inner sidewalls - reason they wont stock those tyres. £360 on 4 new tyres on new years eve, new years day I'm greeted with message on the dash "SELF LVL SUSP. INACT" meaning the self levelling rear suspension had packed in. Traced to §§§§ed airbags - £300 for new ones (tbf only one was leaking but I always do pairs on suspension) added to the fact that I was only averaging 34mpg, had a rough as §§§§ idle and smoke out the exhaust and found someone had kindly removed the EML bulb from the dash I was rather §§§§ed off so decided I'll get easy to fix petrol and go back to manual (hence the Volvo).

With fuel and all repairs/parts that car has cost £5000 in 10k ignoring purchase price making it 50p a mile!! I'm roughly 21p a mile in the S60. I got §§§§ed about selling it spares or repairs so I'm fixing it, re-moting it (up in april) and selling on.

Hopefully it wont throw anymore £££££ my way just to sell it but just my luck it will. Handsome car but ridiculous running costs. Sure it will be cheaper for next owner since I did all the expensive £££££

[silverhorse]

James. Mate. :cry:

Your car is testing you. You have not come up wanting!!!
Stick with it mate. Just think, you will soon be the Oracle we all turn to when we have a problem. Chances are you have had it and sorted it :D

[JamesT5]

James. Mate. :cry:

Your car is testing you. You have not come up wanting!!!
Stick with it mate. Just think, you will soon be the Oracle we all turn to when we have a problem. Chances are you have had it and sorted it :D

Funny you should say that because I've already started spotting posts that echo my previous problems. Coming up next, a thread... ."How to build a Volvo V70 T5 Phase 2"...... (At least I'm can see the funny side). :D

[JamesT5]

It's been suggested I take the thing oof the car and check the brushes because they are cheap to replace. Failing that, there's a place not far from here that refurbs alternators!

[claymore]

If the alternator is the same as an 850 one, I have a spare you can have.

[JamesT5]

If the alternator is the same as an 850 one, I have a spare you can have.

Thanks mate, I think they are different but it's worth keeping in mind. I don't know whether there is any way to tell until I can get some sort of model number and do a comparison. Looks like I'll be busy on a steep learning curve this week!

[LeeT5]

Not meaning to tell you to suck eggs but before you buy the one on eBay, make sure what your buying is the correct amperage. They do different amperage's for all our models even thou they list your car.
You need to see if you can see the sticker on your alternator...it should say. Failing that, a VIN check at the dealer will advise you which to fit. I would change the Aux belt too, being as you have to remove it. They are only £23 from the dealer. Will make the car sound quieter as you'll have no belt noises that you may have become accustomed to without noticing. They don't always squeal you know!

[JamesT5]

Not meaning to tell you to suck eggs but before you buy the one on eBay, make sure what your buying is the correct amperage. They do different amperage's for all our models even thou they list your car.
You need to see if you can see the sticker on your alternator...it should say. Failing that, a VIN check at the dealer will advise you which to fit. I would change the Aux belt too, being as you have to remove it. They are only £23 from the dealer. Will make the car sound quieter as you'll have no belt noises that you may have become accustomed to without noticing. They don't always squeal you know!

Thanks for the advice Lee as always, I had noted the various alternators were different voltages so you're absolutely right there. I did think about changing the fan belt too as you stated although my budget has now been blown this month.

Regards

James

[ShadeTek]

I had my alternator out a couple of weeks ago to replace the regualtor/brush pack. The biggest aggro was the aux belt. Getting it off and on. It was suggested to drain the system down a bit which I do not like doing if I can help it. So the alternative was to remove the radiator fan cowling which was pretty easy and allowed me to move the alt along the front of the radiator after I had loosend the dip stick support. I had twitchy lights while driving which I initially thought it had not cured, but I don't get that any more but I do get low rev pulsey lights at tickover. I am suspecting my battery which has shown the low battery warning a couple of times suggesting it is not holding a chaarge. I have built a battery desulfator and also added some epsom salts in it to try and extend the life of it a bit longer.


20795

[JamesT5]

I've had a fantastic day on the car (with the exception of those broken wires), and I'm feeling really pleased with myself because after a steep learning curve, I've managed to remove my old Alternator. This is something I really didn't think I'd have a hope with given all the stuff that surrounds it and at this point I'd like to publicly thank anyone who has offered me advice on this, especially ShadeTek for the extra help!

It's amazingly satisfying to learn how to do a job like this and succeed in the process and although alot of you will see this as a 'basic maintenance' or 'everyday' job, for someone like myself with very little mechanical skills and experience it's a real achievement I can tell you. I was so chuffed when I finally got that last bolt out and the Alternator wiggled free! :D :B_thumb:

I found it helpful to remove the ETM which I've also given another clean (might as well whilst it was off), this is a job that took me all day in the Summer last year but for some reason it seemed so much easier this time around - I even remembered some of the socket set sizes I needed even all these months later! Funny how a bigger job in front of you makes the last one look so much easier than it did when you did it (make sense?). The hardest part was finding all the bolts and there were some very illusive I can tell you!

I didn't have to drain any PAS fluid or any coolant and my strategy was to clear away as much space around the unit as possible so I could get access to it. At the moment, the car is in bits and I'm charging the battery up indoors so once the new Alternator arrives I can fit it on to the car, put everything back together and then the car should start straight away. Happy days!

The unit I've ordered is a brand new Alternator and it includes a ready fitted clutch pulley, a wise precaution as I don't have a tool to remove the old one and swap it over. It's also a 160A unit where as the old one is a 140A unit, so at least it'll have some extra juice to it!

My plan is to see if the old one is repairable and if so at what cost. If it's just a case of changing the brushes then I'll do that, get it tested locally to make sure it's fit for use and then sell it as a second hand unit. Failing that I'll add it to my pile of scrap car parts currently stacked up neatly in my bedroom wardrobe. :D

Anyway, some pictures I took of the job today.......

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010806_zps9936424f.jpg

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010807_zpsb2a83f74.jpg

IMG]http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010811_zpsd7a44a3b.jpg[/IMG]

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010813_zps38af5443.jpg

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010810_zpse1169538.jpg

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010809_zps0123ed82.jpg

The offending item...... :D

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010817_zps43fe03ba.jpg

I'll update you (with pictures if possible) when the new one is installed! :beer:

Regards

James

[JamesT5]

Oh, forgot to add, the new Alternator including the clutch pulley was £149.34 via fleabay from a company called Quing Ting Auto Parts. :)

[graemewelch]

replacing with a 160 instead of 140 might gives you a few issues. i would of replaced like for like as lee said earlier. you know how sensitive the phase 2 is. well done on taking the job on though

[JamesT5]

replacing with a 160 instead of 140 might gives you a few issues. i would of replaced like for like as lee said earlier. you know how sensitive the phase 2 is. well done on taking the job on though

I did a bit of research on this topic and found that a higher amperage alternator is not a problem (unless of course it was significantly higher). It just means that when for instance the A/C kicks in, the alternator with a higher amperage will keep up with the power demand better than a lower amperage one. The V70 can have a 120A alternator (I found out from looking at second hand units), then there's a 140A which is what my old one is and then finally a 160A unit which is what I've ordered. If there was any issues with a 160A unit then I doubt they'd be allowed to sell them.

I'll let you know how it all goes once it's fitted.

Regards

James

[jdavis]

Gutted for you mate. Well done on the progress on the car though mate. I know exactly what you mean about the proud feeling when it goes good.

I had the alternator on my p1 t5 refurbished and it lasted over 4 years. Got that feeling the p2's is starting to go, lights really dim when first started and throws dstc light occasionally. Better get saving.

[JamesT5]

Gutted for you mate. Well done on the progress on the car though mate. I know exactly what you mean about the proud feeling when it goes good.

I had the alternator on my p1 t5 refurbished and it lasted over 4 years. Got that feeling the p2's is starting to go, lights really dim when first started and throws dstc light occasionally. Better get saving.

Here's the link to the one I brought, still an eye watering £150 but cheaper than the £281 the Main Stealer wanted........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190666537729?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[V70 Graham]

Well done James, looked a bit tricky to get out going by your pictures.

[LeeT5]

I didn't have to drain any PAS fluid or any coolant and my strategy was to clear away as much space around the unit as possible so I could get access to it. At the moment, the car is in bits and I'm charging the battery up indoors so once the new Alternator arrives I can fit it on to the car, put everything back together and then the car should start straight away. Happy days!


VERY, VERY, DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!

If that battery explodes whilst charging or even after charging, anyone in the house when it goes BANG will be deafened and you'll have Sulphuric Acid splashed on every surface within a 5m range of that battery!!

I strongly advise you remove it NOW and put in the garage or outside.

I had a battery explode on me once and trust me, it was not a nice experience. I was showered in acid and my ears were ringing for hours...and i was outside! Luckily i had safety specs on so no acid went in my eyes.

James....seriously, get that battery out your house mate. :nono::hbomb:

[ShadeTek]

Thanks for the mention James and well done on repairing your car.

P.S.There is a missing bracket in one of your photos:-

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010811_zpsd7a44a3b.jpg

[JamesT5]

Thanks for the mention James and well done on repairing your car.

P.S.There is a missing bracket in one of your photos:-

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010811_zpsd7a44a3b.jpg

Where abouts?

[ShadeTek]

Where abouts?

The first bracket is missing [ Between your second and third photos.

[JamesT5]

VERY, VERY, DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!

If that battery explodes whilst charging or even after charging, anyone in the house when it goes BANG will be deafened and you'll have Sulphuric Acid splashed on every surface within a 5m range of that battery!!

I strongly advise you remove it NOW and put in the garage or outside.

I had a battery explode on me once and trust me, it was not a nice experience. I was showered in acid and my ears were ringing for hours...and i was outside! Luckily i had safety specs on so no acid went in my eyes.

James....seriously, get that battery out your house mate. :nono::hbomb:

Lee, I appreciate the advice however the battery charger states 'indoor use only'. In addition to that, what is the difference between the battery charging up in the boot of the car as normal and it charging in the house?

[JamesT5]

One thing I won't be doing however, is charging it up overnight. The battery charger will be turned off during this period...

[JamesT5]

The first bracket is missing [ Between your second and third photos.

Are you referring to the thing that goes over the top of the coolant pipe and holds the electrical connector in place? If so I just loosened it, it's sitting on top of the inlet manifold. :D

[JamesT5]

Well done James, looked a bit tricky to get out going by your pictures.

It's certainly not easy Graham, but the fact that someone like me who has the car fixing skills of a 5 year old managed to get it off means it's certainly not a job that I'd be paying a garage to do. I do know that if I had to do this again I would find it a hundred times easier as I'll know what I'm doing now and what fits to what. A lot of time was taken up by trying to work out where all the bolts were, how to get the belt off (that was actually quite easy in the end as I'll explain), how everything fits together and what does or does not need to be disconnected.

To get the belt off I used a 12 inch 14mm ring spanner, pushed down on the 14mm bolt head on the middle pulley which then lifts the pulleys and slacks the belt, and then just slipped the belt off a bit at a time. Took me a bout 2 minutes once I'd got the knack of it. Just make sure you draw a diagram or take a photo of the belt and pulleys before you take it off, otherwise you might forget how it went on! :D

[LeeT5]

Lee, I appreciate the advice however the battery charger states 'indoor use only'. In addition to that, what is the difference between the battery charging up in the boot of the car as normal and it charging in the house?

The fact your charger states 'Indoor use' means exactly that. Indoors. However, common sense would prevail because it means that the charger is not waterproof and shouldn't be used outside in the rain for example.
However, most people using battery chargers would use them either in a garage or shed, where if the battery exploded no harm would come to persons or pets.

It doesn't mean charge it up in your house. Honestly mate, your taking an enormous risk. Been in the trade long enough to know and i certainly wouldn't do it. I like my sofa as it is not with big holes in it.

[JamesT5]

The fact your charger states 'Indoor use' means exactly that. Indoors. However, common sense would prevail because it means that the charger is not waterproof and shouldn't be used outside in the rain for example.
However, most people using battery chargers would use them either in a garage or shed, where if the battery exploded no harm would come to persons or pets.

It doesn't mean charge it up in your house. Honestly mate, your taking an enormous risk. Been in the trade long enough to know and i certainly wouldn't do it. I like my sofa as it is not with big holes in it.

The compromise is to put the battery out the window and leave the charger indoors and just run the terminals out through the window to charge the battery.

[JamesT5]

I've opened up the old Alternator today and I've taken some photos for those who want to have a look. Personally I think the brushes look totalled and sooted up but I could be wrong...

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010818_zps9f4da583.jpg

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010822_zps60cf3746.jpg

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/P1010824_zps3f0aab82.jpg

[claymore]

Brushes look absolutely fine

[JamesT5]

Brushes look absolutely fine

Something is totalled in there mate because the alternator failed to charge the battery and I came to a grinding halt. I spoke to a company near where I live that refurbish alternators and do vehicle electrical repairs and they stated that if the brushes are fine then it's usually another component within the Alternator which if it goes, usually means the thing is scrap.

I'll get this unit inspected by the speacialist when I can get it to him and if he says ist's U/S then I'll probably get more for the copper wiring inside it than anything else.

[stevmo]

Have to agree about the battery charger. I havent had a battery blow up on me yet (touch wood) but I only ever charge mine in the garage.
Batteries can explode in cars, the reason why its more likely on a bench charger is purely because they are designed as a rapid charger (why I tend not to switch mine to rapid charge as it happens) which can cause the reaction in the battery to be to quick and violent and the gases not able to vent quickly enough causes an explosion.

Car Alternators do not charge at anywhere near the same rate which is why with larger engined cars you need larger capacity batteries that can withstand multiple starts on a reduced level of charge

[JamesT5]

Ok, when I say damaged I mean there is a small chunk missing from the electrical connector housing where the flat plug fits on to the unit. It's small but the point is that this is brand new and I paid £150 for it, it should be in perfect condition.

Thankfully I brought it through ebay so I've got some cover there, plus if they don't give me at least a partial refund then I'll just leave negative feedback instead of neutral! I'm sick of waiting for parts so I'm not sending it back as it's useable, I am however going for a partial refund instead.

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/_JamesT5/DamagedConnector2_zps042306b3.jpg

[ShadeTek]

I wouldn't worry about that small chip on there. I doubt it is exposing anything live. Take the rear of your old alternator if it will fit.

[JamesT5]

I wouldn't worry about that small chip on there. I doubt it is exposing anything live. Take the rear of your old alternator if it will fit.

Managed to get £15 back from the supplier which is 10%.

[volvokid]

Good result there

[Harvey]

So have you fitted it yet ?.

[JamesT5]

This afternoon has been really hard work, and I mean really hard! Anyone within ear shot would have been convinced I'd got Tourettes, I don't think certain words have ever come out of my mouth so much, ever.......... :cussing:

I've fitted the new Alternator to the car and didn't get finished until around 8pm having started about midday. I worked in the pouring rain and cold conditions, I ache and I'm completely knackered but I'm pleased to say the car runs having recharged the battery and started it up!

The hardest things I found to do were......

1) Getting the new Alternator into position so all the bolt holes lined up, this was a real pain and in the end the best way was to get the bottom 2 bolts in first that also happen to be the upper bolts for the A/C compressor. The Alternator just moved around and I had terrible trouble getting everything to line up properly, but with dogged determination I managed to get the first bolt in and then the other other 2 were alot easier.

2) The Auxilary Belt was a pig of a job, a real pain to get back on. Probably one of the hardest jobs of the whole day, it took me well over an hour of expletives, face screwing and 110% determination. The main issue was getting the belt over the last pulley and my advice is this.........

When you fit it, the last pulley you try and get the belt over is the very top one that the PAS pump is attached to. Initially I tried getting over the front bottom pulley but I can tell you from bitter experience that this will not work as there's not enough room to get down there, plus if you knew the amount of effort required to get it over the pulley you'd see what I mean.

Also, draw a diagram like I did before you take the belt off otherwise you may forget how it all went together.

If the PAS pump is unbolted it will give you just about enough slack to get the belt over the pulley wheel but even then it's very hard work. I used a 12 inch 14mm spanner on the middle pulley tension release to increase the slack, but you have to get the spanner all the way down as far is will go (towards the front of the car) in order to get maximum slack on the belt. Then I had to make sure the belt was sitting dead centre and in the grooves on each pulley correctly, another pain in the rear end job that took some tweaking and alot of patience. All in all, not a nice job especially for someone like myself who has very little mechanical experience and even worse when it's hammering it down with rain and 4C.

So all in all I managed to loose a 10mm bolt to hold the radiator fan in place (couldn't find it after it went down a hole near the headlight then dropped somewhere down below), so I'll have to get a new one. At the end I was so tierd and worn out I managed to bust a clip on my air filter box lid working by torch light but by some miracle, the car started and I was so happy when the auxilary belt was seen spinning as it should.

Tomorrow I'll be going out and clearing up the odds and ends and giving the car a wash, also checking for error codes and any faults or wires that haven't connected properly. I'm also going to try and solder up the broken plug connection for the IAT sensor. Tonight however, I was just glad to see the engine ticking over again, at least I pretty much put it back together correctly although I've noted some of my jubilee clips for the air hoses aren't tightening properly so I'll have to invest in some new ones.

I'll update tomorrow once I've read all the codes and given the car a check over. By the way, sorry there's no photos of todays efforts bit by bit but time, light and the weather were against me so tomorrow I'll try and get a picture of the new Alternator on the car.

Thanks to anyone for the advice they have given me regarding this job, I do also wonder what the 'book time' is on this at a Main Stealers as I must have saved myself a bucket load of cash by doing this job myself. :B_thumb: :beer:

Regards

James

[V70 Graham]

Wow, I take my hat off to you James, I can only imagine the satisfaction you'll have tomorrow when you tighten up that last clip and know its all your own work.
You must have saved a fair bit doing the job yourself and learnt a fair bit in the process.....well done.

[M-R-P]

Well done James.
Something else a lot of people don't realise is that even though these cars are quite big, for somebody of the "larger stature" some maintenance that would seem pretty easy, is a real effort when you can't get a swing on a spanner because you're elbow is wedged on the other side of the engine! (for those who haven't met me or James - I'm 6'2"+ with popeye forearms that don't fit in many places around the engine, and James is 6'4", so I can only imagine it being harder) So on top of not being experienced in the work, it's physically quite demanding at times.

So James - :beer: Hats off to you mate.

[Harvey]

Well done,just think the cash you have saved by your DIY and no VAT.

[M-R-P]

Well done,just think the cash you have saved by your DIY and no VAT.

I charge VAB (value added beer ;))

[volvokid]

Well done dude, I still have to pay the garage for my alternator. ... oh well lol

[silverhorse]

I've fitted the new Alternator to the car and didn't get finished until around 8pm having started about midday. I worked in the pouring rain and cold conditions, I ache and I'm completely knackered but I'm pleased to say the car runs having recharged the battery and started it up!

WELL DONE JAMES!!! :hail: HaHa, I knew you'd get there eventually.
I think mine is a bit iffy so I will come over to yours on Sunday, seeing as how you are now the expert!!


I do also wonder what the 'book time' is on this at a Main Stealers as I must have saved myself a bucket load of cash by doing this job myself. :B_thumb: :beer:

Just gave them a ring, and they said about a 20 minute job and £40 + Vat. Only kidding. Arm and a leg I bet

[JamesT5]

If you were closer I'd come and help you with it. You look at the engine bay and think, 'that's pretty close to the top so I'll have that swapped over in no time at all'. :nono:

I've done a quick adding up of all the hours I spent on the job and I estimate it took me around 14 - 15 hours in total but I have very little experience fixing cars so I'm sure for a lot of the more experienced people on this forum, there's alot that could have changed it all over in half that time or less.

I'll do a quick reference guide in bullet point form in case anyone feels brave enough to tackle the job at home like I did.

[JamesT5]

Well done dude, I still have to pay the garage for my alternator. ... oh well lol

Did you get yours done at a garage then? If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge you for labour in total?

[JamesT5]

Posted a "How To Change Your Alternator" thread in the "How To" section..... :B_thumb:

[volvokid]

Did you get yours done at a garage then? If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge you for labour in total?

It was 120. Apparently they said it was a pig to do, they had the young apprentice do it.

[JamesT5]

It was 120. Apparently they said it was a pig to do, they had the young apprentice do it.

Yes it is a pig to do! Essentially you have to take quite lot out to get to the lower bolts, there really is no short cut way of doing it!

[volvokid]

It was my V40 that went, not sure how different they are to do.

[JamesT5]

It was my V40 that went, not sure how different they are to do.

Probably very similar to the V70, and notice Volvo love making anything more than a lightbulb change a complete nightmare for the 'have a go at home' mechanics, just so you wave the white flag in frustration and take it to one of their over priced service centres.

[volvokid]

Probably very similar to the V70, and notice Volvo love making anything more than a lightbulb change a complete nightmare for the 'have a go at home' mechanics, just so you wave the white flag in frustration and take it to one of their over priced service centres.

The V40 is a renult engine so it might be totally different

[JamesT5]

The V40 is a renult engine so it might be totally different

Well it took me around 14 - 15 hours to remove and refit mine.

[volvokid]

Well it took me around 14 - 15 hours to remove and refit mine.

It would have took me about the same. I think paying a garage bill was cheaper than a divorce for spending time fixing my car lol

[JamesT5]

It would have took me about the same. I think paying a garage bill was cheaper than a divorce for spending time fixing my car lol

:hilarious :B_thumb:

[graemewelch]

Managed to get £15 back from the supplier which is 10%.

as you got 10% off i hope you left posative feedback. sometimes its out of the sellers control when things get damaged and when the seller dose all he can to resolove it you cant ask anymore of them. as some one who sells a fair bit on ebay i hate it when buyers sell neutral or neg feedback when as a seller youve bent over backwards for them. just something to bear in mind

most of all well done for taking the job on and being succesful. i agree with mrp. being 6ft 4" can be a pain when working on cars. its my back that suffers the most and im only 32. im just a skinny dude so getting into tight places isnt as tough as it is for you lads

[JamesT5]

as you got 10% off i hope you left posative feedback. sometimes its out of the sellers control when things get damaged and when the seller dose all he can to resolove it you cant ask anymore of them. as some one who sells a fair bit on ebay i hate it when buyers sell neutral or neg feedback when as a seller youve bent over backwards for them. just something to bear in mind

I haven't left any feedback yet.

[jdavis]

Well done James! Glad to hear all running fine.

[ShadeTek]

Congrats on your success. Agree with the aux belt fitting, it is a problem, but not with a bit of technique. Like on the 850 and now on the V70, without a proper tool to slacken the belt off AND then hold it off and thus freeing both my hands, I used an allen with a ring penner jammed on the end of it while propping it up with a bit of wood to retain the pressure and slacken the tensioner. I then took the off-side wheel off and got access to the crank where i put a long extension on it which allowed me to turn the engine over by kneeling on the extension bar while pushing the belt over the PSU pulley. I have now purchsed a Torx star 1/2" bit set which includes the T60 bit for fitting into the arm tensioner. This should allow me to use my long breaker bar and tie it off enough and move the adjuster enough to get the belt on in one go and not have to turn the engine round.