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sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 19:32
So decided to give the old bus a quick clean before work,

Method i used:

2 bucket method
Dry with 2 microfiber towels
1 Coat of Autoglym Super Resin polish
HD cleanser
1 coat of HD wax
Rain-x of the windscreen
Meguirs Tyre gel

Only a quick one to try the HD cleanser and wax, will probably apply a couple of more coats of wax or wait til next time and clay the car first.
The bodywork isn't the best of conditions, with the bumper needing spraying and the wheel refurbing but til i get round to it, it's the best of a bad situation.
Oh and i still need to drop the exhaust to clean that, but will be done when i get it decated.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/81E17E63-5B09-4C95-9B54-50799C3A8BB5-4936-0000059857370025_zps9d2da820.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/94949E16-A9CF-4874-B2F6-E9CE953885CB-4936-000005984DB31309_zpsfafa7379.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/4E4A845F-FE2E-4B49-AD6F-BEB5EDF0AD2E-4936-0000059843E28287_zps86860d7e.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/B4B60A53-5A52-406B-97D7-4310DB455979-4936-00000598486A6AC4_zps50c6ec18.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/3125810A-830D-4C1A-92A8-9B6B9D2BC839-4936-000005983DE17D74_zps7d12efa9.jpg

The pictures have had the clarity adjusted using a simple iPhone app, i can send original pictures if anyone is intrested.

And last but not least, a little bit of cheap labour...he will work for fruit pastiles or milky way bars.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/marc_sartain/201A248D-CA1B-4FD6-A17D-EB12884B33A1-4936-00000598384FBCD5_zpsbcb2ffc9.jpg

**No harming of children we're taken during cleaning process**

T5frankie
Saturday 16th February 2013, 19:34
About time you spent some time on the old girl

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 20:07
[QUOTE=sartain87;574309]So decided to give the old bus a quick clean before work,

Method i used:

2 bucket method
Dry with 2 microfiber towels
1 Coat of Autoglym Super Resin polish
HD cleanser
1 coat of HD wax
Rain-x of the windscreen
Meguirs Tyre gel

Only a quick one to try the HD cleanser and wax, will probably apply a couple of more coats of wax or wait til next time and clay the car first.
The bodywork isn't the best of conditions, with the bumper needing spraying and the wheel refurbing but til i get round to it, it's the best of a bad situation.
Oh and i still need to drop the exhaust to clean that, but will be done when i get it decated.


Shouldn't the order be wash it, cleanse it, polish it then wax it. Using the cleanse after the polish would take the polish off?:confused:

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:14
I wanted to fill the deep scratches first, as its a little abrasive and wax to protect it a little til next time.

Was only having a little play and quick clean because of the snow, this was its first wash this year haha once i got more time will be done properly.

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:15
About time you spent some time on the old girl

once its running right ill get the bodywork sorted and clean it properly, wanna wet vac the interior at some point

BIG DAN
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:18
real shiney that :smile:

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:18
[QUOTE=sartain87;574309]So decided to give the old bus a quick clean before work,

Method i used:

2 bucket method
Dry with 2 microfiber towels
1 Coat of Autoglym Super Resin polish
HD cleanser
1 coat of HD wax
Rain-x of the windscreen
Meguirs Tyre gel

Only a quick one to try the HD cleanser and wax, will probably apply a couple of more coats of wax or wait til next time and clay the car first.
The bodywork isn't the best of conditions, with the bumper needing spraying and the wheel refurbing but til i get round to it, it's the best of a bad situation.
Oh and i still need to drop the exhaust to clean that, but will be done when i get it decated.


Shouldn't the order be wash it, cleanse it, polish it then wax it. Using the cleanse after the polish would take the polish off?:confused:

Polish isn't a coating , you are supposed to take it off, wax is a coating.
I don't understand it when I read that people are building up layers of polish, it doesn't work like that.

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:22
Polish isn't a coating , you are supposed to take it off, wax is a coating.
I don't understand it when I read that people are building up layers of polish, it doesn't work like that.

Would you say that was right then, to use polish as a slight abrasive to fill the deeper scratches then use the cleanser with a final coat of wax or 2?

Before ive just clayed, polished then waxed not used this cleanser before

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:44
Would you say that was right then, to use polish as a slight abrasive to fill the deeper scratches then use the cleanser with a final coat of wax or 2?

Before ive just clayed, polished then waxed not used this cleanser before

If I'm to be honest with you, polish isn't suppose to fill scratches, but it does that's why when I do paint correction I need to spray on a cleaner to get rid of any polish that has filled imperfections that I'm trying to get rid of. I used to use zymol cleanser not the cheap stuff you get from halfords but tbh I didn't have a need for it, it was an extra step that would add no real value. If you notice a difference keep using it in that way but I didn't.
One other little tip, I bet when you are drying your car with you mf cloths you are rubbing them over the paint? Don't you are simply going to introduce more swirls , invest in two waffle weave towels and pat try the car, whilst giving the car a light spray of quick detailer.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:48
I have one more thing , see your mf cloths are they the ones with labels on them? That alone will scratch a car lol stupid I know but I tested that theory on my black c70 and it did scratch it. Having a light coloured car makes things a lot easier to live with. I've never paint corrected my green r yet but if it was a dark colour the swirls would do my head in.

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:48
[QUOTE=MIKESC70T5;574335]

Polish isn't a coating , you are supposed to take it off, wax is a coating.
I don't understand it when I read that people are building up layers of polish, it doesn't work like that.

I know that, the polish just brings up a shine and the wax protects the paint. The cleanser he talks about should be used to take any contaminants off/in the paint and then theres a base point to use the polish to buff up. Using the polish first could potentially put more swirl marks in the paint as the paint hasn't been cleaned properly. That's how I understand it, but happy to be corrected.

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:51
I have one more thing , see your mf cloths are they the ones with labels on them? That alone will scratch a car lol stupid I know but I tested that theory on my black c70 and it did scratch it. Having a light coloured car makes things a lot easier to live with. I've never paint corrected my green r yet but if it was a dark colour the swirls would do my head in.

One of my best selling products is PoorBoys black hole for darker cars, great for quickly masking swirl marks on darker cars. Meguiars ultimate compound is also a great seller for swirl marks etc

Nifton
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:53
You can't fill with polish unless it's specific compound for the job, take megs scratch-x for example, which cuts and rebonds the paint into the scratch. Polish cuts the top layer of paint down, and if your motor is metalic then it will have a clear coat on top, which means that this method won't work. for this you need to touch up the scratch with both base and clear coat, 3 applications of base to build the colour to the top of the scratch, then flat it back with 2kgrit very slighty, then clear coat over that. leave it 48hrs before working it down then give it a light polish to blend it back in.
If the scratch is not so bad that you feel the need to do that, your autoglym will be fine, if you're on a budget then go grab one of the £20 buffers from halfrauds and have a blast, it takes the elbow grease out of the job but they're not powerful enough to do any damage if you're new to it. This method will never be perfect but the idea is ablating the edges to the scractch so light doesn't catch, as that is what makes the scratch noticable!

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:55
If I'm to be honest with you, polish isn't suppose to fill scratches, but it does that's why when I do paint correction I need to spray on a cleaner to get rid of any polish that has filled imperfections that I'm trying to get rid of. I used to use zymol cleanser not the cheap stuff you get from halfords but tbh I didn't have a need for it, it was an extra step that would add no real value. If you notice a difference keep using it in that way but I didn't.
One other little tip, I bet when you are drying your car with you mf cloths you are rubbing them over the paint? Don't you are simply going to introduce more swirls , invest in two waffle weave towels and pat try the car, whilst giving the car a light spray of quick detailer.

Cheers mate, will get some and give it ago, i do notice a little difference using the polish.

Really i need to MOP it, but i need another machine polisher as the wife decided it would look better in the bin haha

Then again once all the bodyworks sorted ill do it properly, for now its just to look a little better and protect from the elements.

Nifton
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:56
PS, I use Liquid shine fine cut medium for anything that requires a bit more bite than the resin polish you have, which is actually quite a good little product :)

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:57
You can't fill with polish unless it's specific compound for the job, take megs scratch-x for example, which cuts and rebonds the paint into the scratch. Polish cuts the top layer of paint down, and if your motor is metalic then it will have a clear coat on top, which means that this method won't work. for this you need to touch up the scratch with both base and clear coat, 3 applications of base to build the colour to the top of the scratch, then flat it back with 2kgrit very slighty, then clear coat over that. leave it 48hrs before working it down then give it a light polish to blend it back in.
If the scratch is not so bad that you feel the need to do that, your autoglym will be fine, if you're on a budget then go grab one of the £20 buffers from halfrauds and have a blast, it takes the elbow grease out of the job but they're not powerful enough to do any damage if you're new to it. This method will never be perfect but the idea is ablating the edges to the scractch so light doesn't catch, as that is what makes the scratch noticable!

I would never trust myself paint correcting with a proper machine polisher incase i burn through the paint haha

Would super resin polish be fine to take the edge of the scratch with the cheaper machine polisher?

jotter22
Saturday 16th February 2013, 21:59
IMHO Dont waste your money on a halfrauds buffer they are crap save some cash up and get a D/A polisher not as hard to use as an orbital so dont have to worry too much about causing damage to the paint.

Tony.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:01
I'm actually going back on myself by saying this, you are rite mike, his cleaner will strip all the wax and polish fillers that has been on the car previously, but if you where to use it properly it would mean polish the car first to properly paint correct your car then use the cleanser to get the paint ready for your sealant.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:03
You can't fill with polish unless it's specific compound for the job, take megs scratch-x for example, which cuts and rebonds the paint into the scratch. Polish cuts the top layer of paint down, and if your motor is metalic then it will have a clear coat on top, which means that this method won't work. for this you need to touch up the scratch with both base and clear coat, 3 applications of base to build the colour to the top of the scratch, then flat it back with 2kgrit very slighty, then clear coat over that. leave it 48hrs before working it down then give it a light polish to blend it back in.
If the scratch is not so bad that you feel the need to do that, your autoglym will be fine, if you're on a budget then go grab one of the £20 buffers from halfrauds and have a blast, it takes the elbow grease out of the job but they're not powerful enough to do any damage if you're new to it. This method will never be perfect but the idea is ablating the edges to the scractch so light doesn't catch, as that is what makes the scratch noticable!
Yes it does all polishes contains fillers of sorts

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:04
IMHO Dont waste your money on a halfrauds buffer they are crap save some cash up and get a D/A polisher not as hard to use as an orbital so dont have to worry too much about causing damage to the paint.

Tony.

You can't do any damage with a d/a hence why they are so popular now. The head moves in all directions so no chance of you burning the paint.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:06
I would never trust myself paint correcting with a proper machine polisher incase i burn through the paint haha

Would super resin polish be fine to take the edge of the scratch with the cheaper machine polisher?

Get your self a da you won't hurt your paint with that, polishing a car by hand is almost a waste of time if you are paint correcting, your arms will fall off.
If you have a scratch you can feel with your nail, you won't remove it 100% but some can be greatly reduced

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:08
You can't do any damage with a d/a hence why they are so popular now. The head moves in all directions so no chance of you burning the paint.

To true, PolishedBliss held one on a bonnet and that pad broke up before any damage was done to the paint.

Nifton
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:09
Yes it does all polishes contains fillers of sorts

Maybe for swirls, but Sartain specifically said scratches, and you would be there all day trying to fill with super resin.

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:12
I'm actually going back on myself by saying this, you are rite mike, his cleaner will strip all the wax and polish fillers that has been on the car previously, but if you where to use it properly it would mean polish the car first to properly paint correct your car then use the cleanser to get the paint ready for your sealant.

Don't agree mate. Wash car, cleanse or clay to get countanements off that washing couldn't, polish to bring up shine then wax then a sealant . Polish wont paint correct the car imo. :smile:

jotter22
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:13
You can't do any damage with a d/a hence why they are so popular now. The head moves in all directions so no chance of you burning the paint.

I think you will find thats what i said!

Tony.

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:16
I think you will find thats what i said!

Tony.

Sorry, thought you said you can't do too much damage with a d/a, I said you can't do any at all :biggrin:

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:17
Don't agree mate. Wash car, cleanse or clay to get countanements off that washing couldn't, polish to bring up shine then wax then a sealant . Polish wont paint correct the car imo. :smile:

Mike I'm not shooting you down here , but polish is the only way to paint correct, and should be the only time you use it on a car. Many people think polishing there car all the time is a good thing it's a bad thing. Have a read on polished bliss. http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/what-does-polishing-do.html
These are the guys that should me how to correct paint.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:19
Maybe for swirls, but Sartain specifically said scratches, and you would be there all day trying to fill with super resin.

You are correct he did say scratches , I should have been clearer what I was talking about.

jotter22
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:21
Sorry, thought you said you can't do too much damage with a d/a, I said you can't do any at all :biggrin:

I will tell you now you CAN damage paint with a D/A polisher with a course cutter but its a lot harder than with a rotary which in the wrong hands is like a shotgun lol!

Tony.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:22
Cutting compounds are the most aggressive type of polishes on the market, and are used to correct major paint defects such as severe swirl marks and deep scratches, and restore dull, neglected paint back to good condition. Cutting compounds work by physical abrasion, and should be thought of as liquid sandpaper. Many modern cutting compounds comprise fine uniformly sized abrasive particles that break down progressively during the polishing process; as a result, such abrasives are usually referred to as diminishing abrasives). This contrasts with traditional polishing compounds, in which the abrasives did not break down at all during the polishing process, and which left surface hazing that required further polishing steps with increasingly finer abrasives until a high gloss finish was restored. The benefit of modern abrasive technology is that it is now often possible to go from compounding to applying protection without the need for an intervening polishing step with a finer finishing polish. In cases where a finer final polishing step is still required (often on darker coloured cars), the amount of additional polishing required is significantly reduced, saving time and effort.

A few important points should be noted about the use of cutting compounds. Firstly, these products are designed to be used with machine polishers, and generally should not be applied by hand. This is because a very high work rate is required to breakdown the abrasive particles, and if they are not worked hard enough then micromarring will occur, which is the technical term for fresh sub-surface defects inflicted during the polishing process as unbroken down abrasive particles are continually moved on the paint, leaving a faint pattern of very tightly defined swirl marks. Secondly, cutting compounds are aggressive, particularly when used with cutting pads, and will remove paint more quickly than you might expect, meaning that they need to be treated and used with respect. Thirdly, compounding should not be viewed lightly, and can only be done a certain number of times before the integrity of the clearcoat is permanently compromised. We therefore strongly recommend that you always consider your options carefully before resorting to heavy compounding.

The next discernible group of products on the market are polishes, which vary in grade from medium abrasives through to light abrasives. Like cutting compounds, most of the products in this category comprise uniformly sized diminishing abrasives, although in this case the average particle size is much smaller and often quoted as being ultra-fine or micro-fine. In contrast to cutting compounds, the much finer abrasive particles used in polishes require less work in order to breakdown, meaning that they can be applied either by hand or machine (although by machine is easier and gives better results). The purpose of polishes is to permanently remove less serious paint defects, such as minor swirl marks, and create smooth, high gloss, highly reflective surfaces in readiness for the addition of sealant or wax protection. It is fine finishing polishes that are the secret to creating jaw dropping car care results, as it is during the final stages of the polishing process that the paint surface is burnished to its maximum extent.

A few important points should be noted about the use of polishes. Firstly, some polishes currently on the market contain a small quantity of fillers, which help to mask any remaining defects prior to the application of sealant or wax protection. Although this might initially strike you as a good thing, the downside is that once such fillers are eroded some of the remaining defects will reappear. For every polish with fillers there is one without, so always do your homework and pick which type suits you best. Our preference is to always work with finishing polishes that contain no fillers, meaning that the true level of paint correction can be easily assessed. Secondly, when working by hand it is beneficial to use the least abrasive product possible to get the job done. This is because polishing by hand is hard work, and much less effort is required to breakdown finer abrasives. In addition, when working by hand it is possible to inflict micromarring when using medium abrasives, as you may not be able to breakdown the abrasive particles fully. We recommend starting with a light abrasive and only moving onto medium abrasives if absolutely necessary.

Glazes are a seemingly misunderstood category of polishing products, perhaps because of confusion caused by the naming of certain products. In the true sense of the word, a glaze is a pure polish that does not contain any abrasives or cleaning agents. Glazes are designed to improve the brilliance and clarity of painted surfaces, and mask or visually reduce the extent of any remaining imperfections. In order to do this, glazes typically comprise gloss enhancing oils and kaolin (China Clay), which fills and hides minor sub-surface defects very effectively. Somewhat confusingly, some glazes only contain gloss enhancing oils, meaning that they do not have any masking abilities, and some products that are called glazes actually include fine abrasive particles, meaning that they are not glazes in the true sense of the word. We therefore recommend that you read product descriptions carefully before choosing an appropriate glaze for the task in hand.

A few important points should be noted about the use of glazes. Firstly, glazes are underused in the UK. In our opinion, it is far better to apply a glaze on a regular basis and hide any defects rather than polish your paint with abrasive products on a regular basis. We only tend to polish our own cars with abrasive polishes once every one to two years, and in the intervening period we use glazes to keep them looking good. Our reasoning for this is very simple; every time you use an abrasive polish you remove a further fraction of your clearcoat. Do this too often and you risk compromising the long-term integrity of your clearcoat. Keeping daily drivers looking good is hard, but glazes offer a highly convenient solution that avoids the risk of ever over polishing your paint. Secondly, once a glaze is applied you should apply sealant or wax protection immediately, in order to seal in the fillers. If you fail to do this, the fillers and gloss enhancing oils will be washed off the next time it rains or when you next wash your car, negating the benefits of applying it in the first place.

The final discernible group of polishing products on the market are chemical paint cleaners, which blur the line between polishes and last step products as they typically polish and lay down sealant or wax protection in a single step. All of the products in this category utilise solvent-based cleaning agents instead of abrasive particles, meaning that they have limited polishing powers but excellent cleaning abilities. However, some newer products in this category also utilise abrasive particles for the polishing process, meaning that more serious defects are sometimes able to be corrected. In spite of their limited polishing power, such products are very useful and typically brighten painted surfaces up considerably as they draw out dirt seated dirt and grime from within the uppermost few microns of the clearcoat. These so called one step style products are also great time savers, and perfect for enthusiasts who want to clean their paint whilst simultaneously adding protection.

A few important points should be noted about the use of chemical paint cleaners. Firstly, they must not be used over glazes, because their solvent-based cleaning agents will strip away oils and fillers, cancelling out the benefits of applying the glaze in the first place. Secondly, such products typically lay down a layer of sealant or wax protection and care should subsequently be taken to ensure that if a further protective product is used that it is compatible with this layer, as sealants should not be layered over waxes. The golden rule is that if the chemical paint cleaner lays down a layer of wax then only a wax-based last step product should be applied on top. However, if the chemical paint cleaner lays down a layer of sealant, then you can generally apply any type of last step product on top. If you are ever unsure about what can and can't be layered in terms of chemical paint cleaners and last step products, please contact us and we will be happy to advise you accordingly.

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:24
I will tell you now you CAN damage paint with a D/A polisher with a course cutter but its a lot harder than with a rotary which in the wrong hands is like a shotgun lol!

Tony.
Nothing is impossible but it must take an absolute nutter who wants to damage his paint to do that.

jotter22
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:24
That is the point i was trying to make it is very hard to damage the paint but not impossible.Wow......bored now!

sartain87
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:28
One of my best selling products is PoorBoys black hole for darker cars, great for quickly masking swirl marks on darker cars. Meguiars ultimate compound is also a great seller for swirl marks etc

What would you reccomend for a silver car to mask swirl marks?

As i say it was only supposed to be a quick tester and mess around as i didn't have time to do things properly.

Machine polisher is deffinatly gonna be next, as my arms were aching today, if anything i can always get the bodyshop man to do things properly when its in for a few bits to get sprayed ;)

Any reccomendations for a DA polisher?

One last thing, someone mentioned a sealant after waxing, what exactly would this achieve? and whats best?

volvokid
Saturday 16th February 2013, 22:37
What would you reccomend for a silver car to mask swirl marks?

As i say it was only supposed to be a quick tester and mess around as i didn't have time to do things properly.

Machine polisher is deffinatly gonna be next, as my arms were aching today, if anything i can always get the bodyshop man to do things properly when its in for a few bits to get sprayed ;)

Any reccomendations for a DA polisher?

One last thing, someone mentioned a sealant after waxing, what exactly would this achieve? and whats best?

Honestly dude all your questions can be answered on the polished bliss site. A wax is a sealant but you get several types of sealants now , not just wax

JamesT5
Sunday 17th February 2013, 10:45
once its running right ill get the bodywork sorted and clean it properly, wanna wet vac the interior at some point

Hire a Rug Doctor, they're really good at getting the carpets up nice and even better around the house!

Jimmie
Sunday 17th February 2013, 13:24
Machine polisher is deffinatly gonna be next, as my arms were aching today, if anything i can always get the bodyshop man to do things properly when its in for a few bits to get sprayed ;)

Any reccomendations for a DA polisher?



Buy a Kestrel DAS-6 Power Plus Dual Action Machine Polisher. More reliable and robust than a meguiar's at a decent price but heavier.
If you can afford it go for a pro one but be prepared to pay substantially more.
A bodyshop will not detail your car that is a different profession altogether

sartain87
Sunday 17th February 2013, 19:01
The lad who sprays my bits does it as a hobby aswell, a few people have said about the kestral range, so looks likes thats the one then. Thanks for the input guys.

volvokid
Sunday 17th February 2013, 19:13
The lad who sprays my bits does it as a hobby aswell, a few people have said about the kestral range, so looks likes thats the one then. Thanks for the input guys.

I went through several series one megs da's they just don't last, I have used both versions of the kestrels too and they are extremely good, they just don't feel as nice as the megs, I'd like to get a series two megs.

MIKESC70T5
Sunday 17th February 2013, 20:36
I went through several series one megs da's they just don't last, I have used both versions of the kestrels too and they are extremely good, they just don't feel as nice as the megs, I'd like to get a series two megs.

Last time I did my car I tried out the Meguiars version two, very very nice. I'm trying to get my agent to get me a good deal from Meguiars. Had a training evening the other week and the regional manager for Meguiars was there but he wouldn't budge on the usual price I pay lol. The people who work at Meguiars are generally enthusiasts and a helpful bunch if you have any questions.

MIKESC70T5
Sunday 17th February 2013, 20:44
Some of my favorites after I'd used the megs version two last year

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s29/MIKEST5R/evo%20individual%20gt/IMG_1850-1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s29/MIKEST5R/evo%20individual%20gt/IMG_1827-1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s29/MIKEST5R/evo%20individual%20gt/IMG_1816.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s29/MIKEST5R/evo%20individual%20gt/IMG_1829-1.jpg

volvokid
Sunday 17th February 2013, 20:56
Last time I did my car I tried out the Meguiars version two, very very nice. I'm trying to get my agent to get me a good deal from Meguiars. Had a training evening the other week and the regional manager for Meguiars was there but he wouldn't budge on the usual price I pay lol. The people who work at Meguiars are generally enthusiasts and a helpful bunch if you have any questions.

I will buy one off you at cost haha

MIKESC70T5
Sunday 17th February 2013, 23:32
I will buy one off you at cost haha

What are you using at the moment?

volvokid
Monday 18th February 2013, 13:56
I haven't got one, I will use my dads kestrel das 6 pro, from memory it's more powerful than me megs one.
I do have a question for you though, can you get brushes for my megs one? That's what's packed up in this one and megs wouldn't repair it, nutters I think.

Jimmie
Monday 18th February 2013, 16:29
I haven't got one, I will use my dads kestrel das 6 pro, from memory it's more powerful than me megs one.
I do have a question for you though, can you get brushes for my megs one? That's what's packed up in this one and megs wouldn't repair it, nutters I think.
And how many times did you use it and the age when it packed up?

jotter22
Monday 18th February 2013, 16:34
I have the Dodo Juice buffdaddy kit...(its a Das 6 really but comes with all the gear at ultimate finish)

MIKESC70T5
Monday 18th February 2013, 20:35
I haven't got one, I will use my dads kestrel das 6 pro, from memory it's more powerful than me megs one.
I do have a question for you though, can you get brushes for my megs one? That's what's packed up in this one and megs wouldn't repair it, nutters I think.

Version two comes with spare brushes, nothing available for the first one which is probably why some many complaints about it as they were for ever playing up. A good whack usually got them started again lol because they got full of polishing powder and got clogged up. One of my bosses has had a version one for about 5 years and the odd whack gets it going again lol.

volvokid
Monday 18th February 2013, 20:58
Version two comes with spare brushes, nothing available for the first one which is probably why some many complaints about it as they were for ever playing up. A good whack usually got them started again lol because they got full of polishing powder and got clogged up. One of my bosses has had a version one for about 5 years and the odd whack gets it going again lol.

My one is at my dads he opened it and cleaned it but noticed it needed new brushes, you can get them , I will get the PN from detailers world