Front Wheel Bearings and ARB.... How Much...???!!!

[JamesT5]

Just looking at wheel bearing prices as it looks like both front bearings are probably well past their best (video to follow by the way). So, for comparison (only), I phoned a Volvo Stealers and got the following prices (I nearly fell of my chair!)...... :shockedbi

Front Wheel Bearing = £217.20 incl VAT (each).......Apprantly the Bearing kit now comes as a complete hub assembly. (Thanks for that you money grabbing barstewards!)

Anti-roll bar = £157.20

Now, then I went to flebay and found a new front wheel bearing for £47.19 each including postage (just the wheel bearing but isn't that all I need anyway!)

The ARB is hard to find as a new product so it's either a Volvo part or the Polyurethane bushes. To be honest, the polybushes are a better option as they'll last longer and give better handling. So That's less than £150 for all the parts, but then labour for fitting the wheel bearings will be massive.

[JamesT5]

By the way if any trader on here can supply me with the correct, brand new, front wheel bearing x2 for my car for less than the item on flebay then the business is theirs. Must be 2 new ones though..... :D

[partsforvolvos.com]

arb- not required !!

you just need to get the correct size of our anti roll bar bush kits and save £100

from experience, you are best avoiding the absolute cheapest wheel bearings for our volvos - they are heavy old things and where they might be ok on a fiesta, they arent on a volvo!

[JamesT5]

arb- not required !!

you just need to get the correct size of our anti roll bar bush kits and save £100

from experience, you are best avoiding the absolute cheapest wheel bearings for our volvos - they are heavy old things and where they might be ok on a fiesta, they arent on a volvo!

Yeah, I intend to go for the Polybush option. Are they quite easy to fit? I mean how do I get them on to the ARB, do they just slide on with some encouragement and should I use grease because I was informed the other day that grease can attach the polyurethane? Your product description states use an appropriate grease so which grease should I use if this is the case?

Would you price match if I found the same bushes somewhere else and could prove it? (Sorry sounding tight as a ducks §§§§ now but I'm sure you can understand). :D

As for the bearings, the ones I've got could well result in an MOT failure in March and as the budget has been over squeezed already, 2 new cheapex ones will be better than what I've got on the car already, although I take your point.

[M-R-P]

Copper grease mate - comes with the bush in a nice little sachet ;)

[partsforvolvos.com]

i have some of the same grease ipd put in their antiroll bar kits to sell seperately - its known to be ok for polyurethane.

as far as i know, these arb kits are not for sale anywhere else. they are easy to fit - the bushes are split so dont need sliding on, but its getting to them thats more of a problem on this model.

[JamesT5]

i have some of the same grease ipd put in their antiroll bar kits to sell seperately - its known to be ok for polyurethane.

as far as i know, these arb kits are not for sale anywhere else. they are easy to fit - the bushes are split so dont need sliding on, but its getting to them thats more of a problem on this model.

Getting to them? Surely it's easier to take the ARB off the car?

[JamesT5]

By the way, here's the video I made this afternoon. Please forgive the lack of finesse with the editing, I've just literally glued the clips together and put some notes on the video and then uploaded it to my Youtube channel. As you can see the bearings are shot......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUIPexQysZE&list=UUIfFr5yOuHEjjFvdqvU6TXA&index=1

[Jimmie]

Do you not a stockist near you that only deal in bearings as they are often cheaper but of industrial quality?

[JamesT5]

Do you not a stockist near you that only deal in bearings as they are often cheaper but of industrial quality?

Unfortunatley not...

[graemewelch]

alos worth checking the drive shaft nuts. i agree with partsfor volvos. do it once do it right. thoses cheap bearing are terrible and have been known to rumble in under a year. skf is what id be looking for or volvo parts

[M-R-P]

Can someone post the spec of these bearings? Outside dim, inside dim and width - I deal with skf!

[stephenevans99]

omg James....you've just spent £1200 on suspension components and the garage has failed to notice the bearings!!! Or have I missed something?

[graemewelch]

Can someone post the spec of these bearings? Outside dim, inside dim and width - I deal with skf!

there you go james. mrp will prob get you a pair for under £50. skf are to quality to.

[JamesT5]

there you go james. mrp will prob get you a pair for under £50. skf are to quality to.

Well if Martin can get some for that price then he can have some beer money on top too! ;)

[JamesT5]

omg James....you've just spent £1200 on suspension components and the garage has failed to notice the bearings!!! Or have I missed something?

3 garages non the less. ATS, National and the Indy that actually fitted the parts. ATS and National and no doubt Kwik Fit do these 'Free Safety Inspections' to cover their arses so if they say "your brakes are worn sir" and you do nothing about it, and then have a crash 3 miles down the road, they can turn around and say, "We told you so!".

Obviously for 3 garages to fail to spot worn wheel bearings is rather worrying, especially given they're the trained technicians and I'm probably one of the most mechanically inept men on the planet (well in practice anyway!).

[stephenevans99]

Can someone post the spec of these bearings? Outside dim, inside dim and width - I deal with skf!

Found these using your Reg Martin:

FRONT
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/screen-capture-1-3.jpg

REAR
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/screen-capture-2-1.jpg



Not sure if that helps....

[JamesT5]

Found these using your Reg Martin:

FRONT
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/screen-capture-1-3.jpg

REAR
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/stephenevans99/screen-capture-2-1.jpg



Not sure if that helps....

I bet they're plod spec ones but I'm sure they'll fit any other P80 Phase 2 model....

[JamesT5]

An example of what is available for less than £50. It states its 'original equipment quality'.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281028504073?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

[JamesT5]

I think this is an SKF one for just under £50 posted, as it has an SKF part number on it.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70-MK2-Estate-2-3-T5-184KW-00-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-HUB-KIT-5-STUD-/270960622230?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2001%7CCar+Make%3AVolvo%7CModel%3 AV70&hash=item3f1682fa96

[stephenevans99]

Be wary....it gives the SKF part number FOR REFERENCE ONLY.

[JamesT5]

A useful video on the subject.... Looks like there is a rubber O ring that sits behind the main bearing assembly so one of these will be needed too...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcCU6RsETvE&playnext=1&list=PLdt41NSpq6Cu2XcY3FjMZDevq2yKcIU9e&feature=results_video

[JamesT5]

Be wary....it gives the SKF part number FOR REFERENCE ONLY.

I tried the contact seller option and it wouldn't allow me to as it said the seller has too many questions. The feedback looks good though....

[JimmyBurnWorld]

Sureley if your bearings were worn so far as to allow that much movement then they would be noiser than a cat in a tumble dryer? That much movement could only come from a worn linkage somewhere - Inner rod ends? What about when you spin the wheel, do they grumble? Any ball/roller bearing is a finely balanced bit of engineering They have just enought clearance to turn smoothly, allowing them to support the rated loads without eating themselves. As soon as that clearance increases due to wear things deteriorate very rapidly eventually leading to one or more of the bearing elements breaking down completly and leaving the assembly. The shock that this causes will sometimes shatter the inner or outer race, however if these survive, the bearing will no longer rotate.

A chap I used to work with had a Seat Toledo and went from noisy rear wheel bearing, to rear wheel in a ditch and rest of car in opposite hedge in a couple of weeks regular commuting. When the bearing siezed it twisted the axle off.

Long story short - If it is bearings, don't drive on them if they're that bad. I suspect something else though.

[JimmyBurnWorld]

Boring bearing fact - A good quality new ball/ roller bearing requires continuous input to keep it spinning. If a bearing spins freely for any appreciable time from just a flick, then it already has too much clearance and won't last long.

[partsforvolvos.com]

Getting to them? Surely it's easier to take the ARB off the car?

i think you have to drop the subframe slightly to get to the retaining bolts - the same ones that are on the new bracket hold the original moulded bracket / bar to the car. - somebody help??

[partsforvolvos.com]

how much movement is there to top bottom ? i only really saw you wiggle the wheel left to right, which by the amount of movement available i strongly suspect some is from the inner steering arms.
pull the rubber boot back on them, then do the same test with somebody watching the inner arm joint. - a wheel bearing alone with that much play is really, really excessive.

unfortunately i dont have sound for your video.

[stribo]

Sureley if your bearings were worn so far as to allow that much movement then they would be noiser than a cat in a tumble dryer? That much movement could only come from a worn linkage somewhere - Inner rod ends? What about when you spin the wheel, do they grumble? Any ball/roller bearing is a finely balanced bit of engineering They have just enought clearance to turn smoothly, allowing them to support the rated loads without eating themselves. As soon as that clearance increases due to wear things deteriorate very rapidly eventually leading to one or more of the bearing elements breaking down completly and leaving the assembly. The shock that this causes will sometimes shatter the inner or outer race, however if these survive, the bearing will no longer rotate.

A chap I used to work with had a Seat Toledo and went from noisy rear wheel bearing, to rear wheel in a ditch and rest of car in opposite hedge in a couple of weeks regular commuting. When the bearing siezed it twisted the axle off.

Long story short - If it is bearings, don't drive on them if they're that bad. I suspect something else though.


how much movement is there to top bottom ? i only really saw you wiggle the wheel left to right, which by the amount of movement available i strongly suspect some is from the inner steering arms.
pull the rubber boot back on them, then do the same test with somebody watching the inner arm joint. - a wheel bearing alone with that much play is really, really excessive.

unfortunately i dont have sound for your video.

Further to the above, when you wiggled the wheels in the video, the calipers are moving as well with the wheel, as these are bolted to the hubs, it means the whole hub's moving. As others have said, it'll probably be steering arms.

[M-R-P]

Further to the above, when you wiggled the wheels in the video, the calipers are moving as well with the wheel, as these are bolted to the hubs, it means the whole hub's moving. As others have said, it'll probably be steering arms.

Or the hub to shock bolts are loose.

SKF Luton... P2 Wheel bearing (http://webshop-cs.tecdoc.net/skf/?WT.oss=VKBA%203523&WT.z_oss_boost=1&tabname=All&WT.z_oss_rank=1#)

[partsforvolvos.com]

I tried the contact seller option and it wouldn't allow me to as it said the seller has too many questions. The feedback looks good though....

that is surprising if they never answer any questions. ebay is so easy to get bad feedback


i do feel i must suggest that to continue to drive the car with that much of a fault may be dangerous, and urge you to get it checked professionally really quick, without driving if possible - are you in the AA or RAC?
if any of the above are what is wrong especially loose bolts you dont want them to fall out

[JamesT5]

If it's loose bolts then the garage that fitted this need their §§§§ kicking! I'll drive carefully there tomorrow and ask them to look at it as an urgent safety matter...

[JamesT5]

On the subject of the ARB bushes, I don't think you have to drop the subframe because whilst researching the inner tie rod topic I found this picture which clearly shows the bushes sitting on top of the sub frame not too far inside the wheel arch. I think it's possible to change these without getting under the car at all, just the front wheels off and then undo the droplink bolts then the nuts holding the ARB to the subframe. See what you think.....

20144

[stribo]

Reading the Haynes manual, it says the subframe needs lowering about 90mm to get the clamps off. Going back to the 'slack' in the front wheels, if the garage haven't tightened the hub to shock bolts then I wouldn't go back there again.

[M-R-P]

James, if you get a chance, take the wheel off and look at the hub to strut bolts while wiggling the the disk. I'm really suspicious of those bolts.

[JamesT5]

James, if you get a chance, take the wheel off and look at the hub to strut bolts while wiggling the the disk. I'm really suspicious of those bolts.

Yeah, I'm going to do this in the morning although I only have my scissor jack so I'll need to be careful and obviously avoid getting under the car at all costs! I did suspect some bolts could be loose somewhere as I was getting those knocks and bangs that I'd normally associate with the worn strut mountings which is why I'm so baffled by all of this.

If the hub bolts are loose then I'll be phoning up the garage that did the work and giving them an ear bashing as well as asking for a discount off my bill. I'd be suprised if a garage with such experienced technicians would make such a fundamental error and I'd also be quite annoyed.

I'm grateful for everyones advice and help, truely. Thank you! :beer:

[silverhorse]

I only have my scissor jack so I'll need to be careful and obviously avoid getting under the car at all costs!

I would invest in a trolley jack if I was you! And maybe some axle stands as well. It sounds like you are going to be doing alot of work under the car in the near future and these will be a great help and much safer. You don't need a heavy duty one so don't spend loads on it.

[JamesT5]

I would invest in a trolley jack if I was you! And maybe some axle stands as well. It sounds like you are going to be doing alot of work under the car in the near future and these will be a great help and much safer. You don't need a heavy duty one so don't spend loads on it.

I can borrow some axle stands from family but yes, a £15 trolley jack off flebay will probably be better. For now though, if the bolts are loose do I really want to drive to a local factors to buy a jack when I might loose my strut on the way there...

[silverhorse]

I can borrow some axle stands from family but yes, a £15 trolley jack off flebay will probably be better. For now though, if the bolts are loose do I really want to drive to a local factors to buy a jack when I might loose my strut on the way there...

Ha!! Good point:scared:

[JimmyBurnWorld]

Hellfrauds frequently do an offer on a very good trolley jack and pair of axle stands in a kit. £50 and you have a good quality 2 tonne jack and stands, and they even throw in a paded trolley to slide under the car on.

Just checked their website, and it's been re-branded 'Big Red' and its on offer: Linky (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_81 7617_langId_-1_categoryId_255207)

[JamesT5]

Hellfrauds frequently do an offer on a very good trolley jack and pair of axle stands in a kit. £50 and you have a good quality 2 tonne jack and stands, and they even throw in a paded trolley to slide under the car on.

Just checked their website, and it's been re-branded 'Big Red' and its on offer: Linky (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_81 7617_langId_-1_categoryId_255207)

Just done a check of my local stores and my nearest one with it in stock is Haverfordwest. That's about a 4 hour round trip so how they class that as 'local' escapes me.....

[V70 Graham]

Just out of interest I tried local stores to me, nearest is 21 miles away the other side of London, a good couple of hours away during the week, guess they don't have that many left.

[partsforvolvos.com]

hi james, the thread picture looks to me like it is a ph1 v70, as the lower arm has the 4 bolt pin AWD/C70 fixing. (sorry i'm such an anorak)
i think stirbo/haynes are correct.
dont forget to undo the lower sterring column joint when lowering subframe - in our dealer they forgot, twice - and purchased 2 new columns from parts

[JamesT5]

hi james, the thread picture looks to me like it is a ph1 v70, as the lower arm has the 4 bolt pin AWD/C70 fixing. (sorry i'm such an anorak)
i think stirbo/haynes are correct.
dont forget to undo the lower sterring column joint when lowering subframe - in our dealer they forgot, twice - and purchased 2 new columns from parts

The picture is a Phase 2 model! I've compared it to my own car and the parts and layout look the same apart from one small difference (read below)....

I've been out today and whilst I was there with the spanners checking the bolts, I had a look at the ARB. For the P2 model I have, there is 1 bolt either side of the ARB Bush retaining plate (the arch shaped thing).

The bolts are 14mm bolts and it is possible to undo them with a spanner although I didn't actually achieve this owing to the fact that my spanner handle was too short. You'll need a very long handle on the spanner (I mean very long handle), and plenty of penetrating fluid.

I'm determined to put something back in to the forum here and do an MRP style "How to" thread showing the replacement of the ARB bushes, without dropping the subframe. If I can do this then I think I'll be saving other people and myself a lot of time (and money).

First things first, I'll need to Bushes will I'll be getting from you (PFV). I get paid on Friday so I'll be in touch by the early part of next week!

Regards

James

[partsforvolvos.com]

i was going by the lower arm in the photo being the black metal type, as opposed to aluminium that the newer models have.

anyway, if you can do a how to on getting them replace without dropping the subframe, then i know it will be of benefit to everybody who has confront the repair on the forum . :beer:

let me know when you're ready

[stribo]

It is possible James, my Cougar has the same design, and problem. What you can do is undo and remove the bolt on the left in the photo, and bend the bracket up so you can remove the old bush and replace. The problem comes with trying to bend the bracket back into its original shape, and get the bolt back in. It is doable, but the amount of time it took me to do it on the Cougar, I could have dropped the subframe quicker.

[partsforvolvos.com]

the original bracket containing the bushes is pressed together and moulded, so you need to be able to have access to cut it or break it off. the new bracket is in 2 halves to make it easy.