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5seaterT5x2
Friday 4th January 2013, 19:26
Due to the fact i dont use the car much i usually have to mess about and jump start it ok can be done but just a pain in the $$$$ so am wondering about a solar charger can just leave it on car no worries about running cables etc. my question is how powerfull charger would i need? for instance would this do? or would i nneed more output? guess it's mainly the alarm that kills it?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/solar-powered-12v-1.5w-battery-trickle-charger-98358

Harvey
Friday 4th January 2013, 19:31
Nice little unit I have one which I always use when cars left a airport car parks never had a problem starting the car even when it's been very cold for a couple of weeks,great idea i keep it in the boot all year round.

5seaterT5x2
Friday 4th January 2013, 20:35
Nice little unit I have one which I always use when cars left a airport car parks never had a problem starting the car even when it's been very cold for a couple of weeks,great idea i keep it in the boot all year round.

ok thanks but do you mean you use one of these units? or something similar? more or less powerfull? thanks Gareth

Harvey
Friday 4th January 2013, 20:56
ok thanks but do you mean you use one of these units? or something similar? more or less powerfull? thanks Gareth
Yes got the same size unit.

martybelfastt5
Friday 4th January 2013, 23:20
have to invest in one of these

5seaterT5x2
Monday 21st January 2013, 18:01
think i must have some kind of electrical fault battery was replaced last winter with a heavy duty version for the t5, but only lasts about a week tops even after a decent run, and solar panel dont seem able to keep it charged. i realise electrical can be lots of fun and how long is a piece of string lol but are there any regular known places where this might be ocurring? i'm guessing theres some kinds drain on battery somewheres am getting fed up with jump starting the flamin thing as io dont use the car that much ;-/

M-R-P
Monday 21st January 2013, 18:13
Oblark had a problem with his 850 where the outside temp sensor shorted to earth and would take his battery down in 2 days. Worth a look.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 21st January 2013, 19:19
Oblark had a problem with his 850 where the outside temp sensor shorted to earth and would take his battery down in 2 days. Worth a look.

oh right ok i'll look into that, just bin outside with torch to locate item seems easyish to get to and get out

nobananas
Monday 21st January 2013, 22:24
Just out of interest, the solar panel, is it connected to the battery or plugged into the ciggy lighter, if it's the latter it won't work if the ciggy lighter only works with the ignition on.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 21st January 2013, 23:01
Just out of interest, the solar panel, is it connected to the battery or plugged into the ciggy lighter, if it's the latter it won't work if the ciggy lighter only works with the ignition on.

straight to the battery

5seaterT5x2
Tuesday 22nd January 2013, 09:25
Oblark had a problem with his 850 where the outside temp sensor shorted to earth and would take his battery down in 2 days. Worth a look.

but then again, surely if the digital temp gauge (as opposed to the coolant gauge) appears to be working surely the sensor should be ok? but think as it's so open to the elements i'll get amongst it at the first opportunity just to check

5seaterT5x2
Tuesday 22nd January 2013, 11:50
ok well anyway have unplugged the little blighter and battery on charge outside me garage, we shall see ;-/

5seaterT5x2
Wednesday 23rd January 2013, 22:56
guess its not the sensor? as it's unplugged and battery flat tonight $$$$ **

5seaterT5x2
Thursday 24th January 2013, 23:05
can anybody tell me which fuse is for the outside temperature sensor please? it's not marked on fusebox lid. thanks gareth

nobananas
Thursday 24th January 2013, 23:34
The way I usually check for a current draw is to get a multimeter which has a minimum of a 10 amp load capacity. Disconnect the positive batt terminal and connect the multimeter in series with the meter reading amps. If you can close the bonnet with the meter outside then that will be better then lock the car how you would normally. You will get a current spike when the central locking kicks in (but it's usually less then 10 amps so the meters fuse shouldn't pop) and it will take a few minutes till everything quietens down. As a general rule you shouldn't be seeing anything more then 0.5 of an amp (usually you would see far less). Anything more and something is drawing current when it shouldn't be. If you can open the bonnet (wedge down any alarm pin switches) and start pulling fuses one by one till the current reading drops off then it's just a case of tracing the faulty component on that fuseway.

jotter22
Friday 25th January 2013, 08:48
Is the unit waterproof or does it have to be inside the car?

Tony.

5seaterT5x2
Friday 25th January 2013, 13:24
can anybody tell me which fuse is for the outside temperature sensor please? it's not marked on fusebox lid. thanks gareth

bumpety bump

5seaterT5x2
Friday 25th January 2013, 13:25
Is the unit waterproof or does it have to be inside the car?

Tony.


not sure but i just put mine on my dash and route the wire out passenger door and under bonnet

5seaterT5x2
Friday 25th January 2013, 14:00
just bought one of these nice compact little jobby, fits nice n snug under the bonnet with it shut. ideal for the bikes as well.

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7404881.htm

LeeT5
Monday 28th January 2013, 13:22
I have a solar panel charger that plugs directly into my EOBD socket inside the car. Just rest it on the dash and the flashing blue led tells you that its charging. Brilliant.
Don't even have to open the boot to get to the battery, which is impossible without proper tools on a P2. Unit also has crocodile clips if you want to connect it directly to the battery.
It cost me £24.

Don't buy it off eBay else it will cost you £29. Just find an AA man and ask to buy it off him.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 28th January 2013, 21:30
I have a solar panel charger that plugs directly into my EOBD socket inside the car. Just rest it on the dash and the flashing blue led tells you that its charging. Brilliant.
Don't even have to open the boot to get to the battery, which is impossible without proper tools on a P2. Unit also has crocodile clips if you want to connect it directly to the battery.
It cost me £24.

Don't buy it off eBay else it will cost you £29. Just find an AA man and ask to buy it off him.


got mine at maplins electronics

jotter22
Tuesday 29th January 2013, 14:20
So if you use the crocodile clips do you have to disconnect the battery or can you let it charge with the battery still connected?
Tony.

LeeT5
Wednesday 30th January 2013, 04:59
So if you use the crocodile clips do you have to disconnect the battery or can you let it charge with the battery still connected?
Tony.

You can leave battery terminals connected, its totally safe.

5seaterT5x2
Sunday 10th February 2013, 15:06
and the saga goes on and on, ok have had a new fault code appear 1-2-3 which seems to indicate drivers side interior temp sensor shot ;-/ sigh lol aint had this code before that i remember, guess this could be summat to do with battery going flat? so guess i'll have to get one or possibly 2? (one for passengers side) have tried testing battery drain with multimeter and i guess i must be doing summat wrong as cant get a reading on amps it's a Gunsons digimeter 320 with positive and negative sockets for probes with a third socket for amps helpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp lol and now it's gonna snow again ffs

LeeT5
Monday 11th February 2013, 01:13
and the saga goes on and on, ok have had a new fault code appear 1-2-3 which seems to indicate drivers side interior temp sensor shot ;-/ sigh lol aint had this code before that i remember, guess this could be summat to do with battery going flat? so guess i'll have to get one or possibly 2? (one for passengers side) have tried testing battery drain with multimeter and i guess i must be doing summat wrong as cant get a reading on amps it's a Gunsons digimeter 320 with positive and negative sockets for probes with a third socket for amps helpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp lol and now it's gonna snow again ffs

I think you should read up on Amps and volts mate. You cannot measure Amps across the pos and neg terminals. Amps is a measure of current flow and can only be checked on one side of a circuit when under load. ie on the Pos side OR negative side. Its too difficult to explain in text. There is plenty of info on the web. If you read up then you will understand.
Probably easier to just buy an Amp clamp from Maplins then you can just check for a drain on individual cables on any circuit. Anything less than 0.2amps is totally acceptable. You must remember that some ECU's can take up to 10 minutes to enter 'sleep' mode and therefore must be taken into consideration when checking for a drain.

Hope this helps.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 01:30
I think you should read up on Amps and volts mate. You cannot measure Amps across the pos and neg terminals. Amps is a measure of current flow and can only be checked on one side of a circuit when under load. ie on the Pos side OR negative side. Its too difficult to explain in text. There is plenty of info on the web. If you read up then you will understand.
Probably easier to just buy an Amp clamp from Maplins then you can just check for a drain on individual cables on any circuit. Anything less than 0.2amps is totally acceptable. You must remember that some ECU's can take up to 10 minutes to enter 'sleep' mode and therefore must be taken into consideration when checking for a drain.

Hope this helps.


yes indeed i understand you need to just use one side of battery etc but totally accept im doing summat wrong just dont know what, i like the sound of that amp clamp i'll look it up i like maplins

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 01:52
good old you tube think i can see where i'm going wrong


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFCT-YZbU5o

960kg
Monday 11th February 2013, 16:08
I think you will find despite a blue light on the device saying it is charging the battery that this is only a light to show that the device is working!!!!!!

The device cannot charge the battery via the obd socket OR the cigarette lighter sockets as they are all disabled when the ignition is off.

The ignition must be switched off when plugging in your odb scanner or reader then turn on the ignition, so therefore the obd connector is dead and separated from electricity via the ignition switch so the battery cannot be charged if the circuit is broken by the ignition switch.

The cig. lighter works the same way and can only be used when the ignition is on.

The time taken for the ECU to be dead of current on our Volvo`s is the 850 is about 150 seconds and the V70 because of the immobiliser 254 seconds
this allows for the ECU relay to discharge the leccy and allow safe removal of the ECU.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 16:10
no i could'nt lol although the stupid machine was coming on and showing like hey i'm working oh no it was'nt bleedin fuse insde gone duff, why the bleedin ell avit coming on if it aint working??? arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

and breatheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee ok well more good news it's looking like a breaker/scrapper more n more seems the 2 sensors in the roof are duff the drivers side causing all kindsa greif BRAYDONS aint got em new or 2nd hand and new they are a mere £62 plus vat x 2 of course...............so do i keep on or call it a day n maybe replace it with a later model (V70 P1?) break it/keep it for spares? guess some bits will be ok for slightly later model? oh the joy. anyway i need a lay down.............................................. ...........................................

LeeT5
Monday 11th February 2013, 18:34
Error.

LeeT5
Monday 11th February 2013, 18:38
I think you will find despite a blue light on the device saying it is charging the battery that this is only a light to show that the device is working!!!!!!

The device cannot charge the battery via the obd socket OR the cigarette lighter sockets as they are all disabled when the ignition is off.

The ignition must be switched off when plugging in your odb scanner or reader then turn on the ignition, so therefore the obd connector is dead and separated from electricity via the ignition switch so the battery cannot be charged if the circuit is broken by the ignition switch.

The cig. lighter works the same way and can only be used when the ignition is on.

The time taken for the ECU to be dead of current on our Volvo`s is the 850 is about 150 seconds and the V70 because of the immobiliser 254 seconds
this allows for the ECU relay to discharge the leccy and allow safe removal of the ECU.

I'm afraid your wrong.

PIN number 5 is signal ground earth and PIN number 16 is B+ Live direct from the battery.
This is on ALL 16 pin EOBD diagnostic plugs.

The solar panel plug is wired to these two pins and therefore charges the battery even when the car is switched off.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 18:54
Thinking i may have had enough, have spent fair bit of dosh on it just recently what with strut brace and new battery last year top end rebuild/professionally refurbed head, valve guide seals etc new rad, new thermal switch, new rear genuine pads, new mot. and now looking at mabey another £150 plus for new cabin temp sensors and will it end there????? who knows, if i got a serious offer over £500 think i'd let it go

Not forgetting this car has £1500 worth new anyway of LPG system

960kg
Monday 11th February 2013, 18:57
Yes, you are right about the obd plug but what is your explanation about the cig.lighter connector as on the link at Maplins?

Also if you say it is charging your battery how do you know as you can`t get a big enough resistor across the batt. terminals to measure a drop???

A bit "connish" if you ask me, especially as the alarm must be using at least what the charger is supposed to put in and the fact how far the charger is from the battery via all the wires?

One knows how thick the wires are on the alternator for charging so i feel sorry how many amp. will be travelling down the thin wire from the solar panel especially at night or on a cloudy day.

These gadgets are ok in Theory but not in Practice

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 19:00
Parts definately required at least the onboard diagnostics says so 9134822 for the drivers side and possibly also 9134821 for passengers side

LeeT5
Monday 11th February 2013, 19:20
Yes, you are right about the obd plug but what is your explanation about the cig.lighter connector as on the link at Maplins?

Also if you say it is charging your battery how do you know as you can`t get a big enough resistor across the batt. terminals to measure a drop???

A bit "connish" if you ask me, especially as the alarm must be using at least what the charger is supposed to put in and the fact how far the charger is from the battery via all the wires?

One knows how thick the wires are on the alternator for charging so i feel sorry how many amp. will be travelling down the thin wire from the solar panel especially at night or on a cloudy day.

These gadgets are ok in Theory but not in Practice

I'm talking about the solar panel the AA sell. It doesn't have a cig charger, only croc clips and obd connector.
They are meant as a battery maintainer, not a charger. There intended for people that do less than 2000miles a year or for owners of prestige cars that come out only when the sun shines at the weekend.

They output approx 0.2amps which is enough to maintain a battery in good condition and prevent it from going flat. If you think there a gimmick then don't buy one. I know they work very well if they are used for what they were intended for.

Jamest5r
Monday 11th February 2013, 19:51
Parts definately required at least the onboard diagnostics says so 9134822 for the drivers side and possibly also 9134821 for passengers side

Give Nealevo a shout mate he's just broken an 850 and im sure he would do the parts dirt cheap for you.

5seaterT5x2
Monday 11th February 2013, 20:10
Give Nealevo a shout mate he's just broken an 850 and im sure he would do the parts dirt cheap for you.

yea mate will do thanks, depends on the model as to whether the car has these dam things. only on cars with electronic climate control it seems. Braydons have sev eral breakers but none with the electronic climate control ;-/

Harvey
Monday 11th February 2013, 22:02
Yes, you are right about the obd plug but what is your explanation about the cig.lighter connector as on the link at Maplins?

Also if you say it is charging your battery how do you know as you can`t get a big enough resistor across the batt. terminals to measure a drop???

A bit "connish" if you ask me, especially as the alarm must be using at least what the charger is supposed to put in and the fact how far the charger is from the battery via all the wires?

One knows how thick the wires are on the alternator for charging so i feel sorry how many amp. will be travelling down the thin wire from the solar panel especially at night or on a cloudy day.

These gadgets are ok in Theory but not in Practice

Well at night the diode in the panel stops the batt feeding the panel .
These panels are very good as leet5 says to maintain the battery not to recharge a discharged battery.
I would say fitting one will be a hole lot better than not fitting one .2 amps is always going to be better than 0.0 amps.

If you want to charge a discharged battery you would need one of these or bigger depending on the capacity of your battery

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/FC1683A1-CA65-4B6E-9636-3BE4508E0E68-1584-0000032441E75168_zpsd7904f33.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/7F53D838-8B39-44B1-81E2-61A07E9773EA-1584-000003245469C050_zps975fae38.jpg
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/harveysr/9B6A9B9E-45E8-4AE6-9A3F-105FAB68E57F-1584-0000032467924486_zps6700722b.jpg
And a charger controller linked in to stop over charging,we fit these to 40ft trailers for power to the inside lights when on loading bays ,when the unit is not hitched up ,as LEDs lights are used on most new trailers

5seaterT5x2
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 13:54
ok well the issue of suspected cabin sensors erm worn out has been resolved. but am still on the trail of this battery drain fault, finally got the multimeter sussed and working, connected it in line etc to battery pulled all blade fuses in turn and nothing am currently getting a reading with alarm on etc of - 0.13/0.14 so i'm thinking this must be within acceptable limits? a mate of mine who is really quite clued up both on volvos albeit slightly older ones and is a commercial vehicle mechanic in his day job, he seems pretty convinced it will be the alternator causing the problem sighhhhhhhhhhhh so guess i'll be in the market for one of those shortly if anybody has one for sale please let me know i see em on flea bay new for £200 but dont think i'll be going there................ oh the joy lol.

But on the upside now that i've changed that duff non volvo temperature sensor the car seems to be running fine at lasttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

LeeT5
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 15:59
An acceptable drain is anything up to and including 0.20 amps. Remembering of course that ecu's can take anything up to 10 minutes to power down. So always come to a final conclusion after this.

Regards the alternator, it needs to be tested under load. I advise having a garage check it as if you do it incorrectly and do not understand the readings on both sides of the battery then you can easily be led up the garden path. There are many things to consider before condemning an alternator including the condition of the battery. Getting it wrong will cost lots of money.

Pliskin
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 17:08
Nice little unit I have one which I always use when cars left a airport car parks never had a problem starting the car even when it's been very cold for a couple of weeks,great idea i keep it in the boot all year round.

How does it work in the boot?

Harvey
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 17:15
How does it work in the boot?

It only take it out of the boot when we are at the airport......,I store it next to the spare wheel.

Pliskin
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 17:21
It only take it out of the boot when we are at the airport......,I store it next to the spare wheel.

Now I look like a numpty.....guess that's what happens when you try to extract the Michael.

Pliskin
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 17:23
I am not sure if the offer is still on but Maplins were doing an offer on the next size up from the one featured before, for around about the same money

Harvey
Sunday 3rd March 2013, 17:30
Now I look like a numpty.....guess that's what happens when you try to extract the Michael.

I guess I could have said I leave the light on in the boot which makes it work great,perpetual energy easy one. :blahblah:

5seaterT5x2
Monday 22nd September 2014, 17:19
An acceptable drain is anything up to and including 0.20 amps. Remembering of course that ecu's can take anything up to 10 minutes to power down. So always come to a final conclusion after this.

Regards the alternator, it needs to be tested under load. I advise having a garage check it as if you do it incorrectly and do not understand the readings on both sides of the battery then you can easily be led up the garden path. There are many things to consider before condemning an alternator including the condition of the battery. Getting it wrong will cost lots of money.

Oh yes in deedy sorry to revive this again but still cant get to the bottom of the battery drain. Did replace the alternator and yep made no bleedin difference at all. Car running very well Witness the fact it's just done over 2000 mile round trip to Hungary and back without issue, the car if used regularish at least once every 3/4 days gives no probs at all but left for longer and battery will be flat. Changed the alternator on the insistence/assurance of my hmmm aquaintance? lol and its made no bleeding difference at all grrrr. as said before getting readings of 0.13/0.14 amps with meter connected in line on battery lead and pulling fuses in turn and getting no real difference in the readings. have just disconnected towbar relays to try and eliminate these, Helppppppppppp

LeeT5
Monday 22nd September 2014, 21:08
Oh yes in deedy sorry to revive this again but still cant get to the bottom of the battery drain. Did replace the alternator and yep made no bleedin difference at all. Car running very well Witness the fact it's just done over 2000 mile round trip to Hungary and back without issue, the car if used regularish at least once every 3/4 days gives no probs at all but left for longer and battery will be flat. Changed the alternator on the insistence/assurance of my hmmm aquaintance? lol and its made no bleeding difference at all grrrr. as said before getting readings of 0.13/0.14 amps with meter connected in line on battery lead and pulling fuses in turn and getting no real difference in the readings. have just disconnected towbar relays to try and eliminate these, Helppppppppppp

You obviously didn't read my post correctly as I did say that a reading of up to 0.20 amps is acceptable! :wink:

5seaterT5x2
Saturday 4th October 2014, 13:47
Ahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa sussed the little B****** decide to go through the motions again of pulling fuse etc and it SEEMS to be fuse 16 no idea why this did'nt show up before but better late than never lol :biggrin: (power antenna and towbar?) tracked this down monday pretty much left car all week and it started with no problem this morning yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa have had several erm experts look at it and to no avail except making my wallet lighter :cussing: Now the power antenna aspect i aint to bothered about as i dont have one :) But i think somewhere i read all of these cars/or some of them at least are prewired for a towbar? could this be the problem? have had a look under boot floor and all i can find is a small blue box a lamp control? dont think this is it? is there something else i should be looking for? Yerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr